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Old Jan 06, 2011, 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by MS_in_NY View Post
I like a windsock or two placed around the field so I can see what the wind is doing 'over there'. But I can't believe people are actually comtemplating ADDING a long antenna to their 2.4 TXs just for a wind streamer. I can sense the direction of wind flowing past my body without any visual aids. A streamer on the TX isn't gonna give you any more info than that.

To each their own of course.

........Mike
Subtle changes in wind direction can not be felt on the body as well as they can be seen on a ribbon that is high above you, outside the influence of your body. A shift of 20 degrees can tell you where a thermal may be forming. A shift of 90 degrees is almost certainly a thermal pulling. And you can watch the cycle over time more easily than you can feel it, especially when it is 30 degrees.

What's wrong with using a streamer on the radio?
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Old Jan 06, 2011, 02:13 PM
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It seems like I read somewhere that you should not have the receiver close to the ESC. It can cause receiver problem. I was thinking of putting my secondary receiver in front of the battery, near the ESC. Will that cause me problems?
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Old Jan 06, 2011, 02:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aeajr View Post
Subtle changes in wind direction can not be felt on the body as well as they can be seen on a ribbon that is high above you, outside the influence of your body.

What's wrong with using a streamer on the radio?
Well, lol, I have no empirical argument beyond 'can too'. I can certainly detect changes smaller than 20 degrees without visual cues.

There's nothing 'wrong' with using a streamer on the radio. On a 72 rig that already has a long unwieldy antenna on it why not put a streamer on it. However IMO losing that long antenna is among 2.4s positive benefits.

As a recent RC flyer who has never used anything but 2.4 this 'wind streamer on the tx' thing seems more security blanket than windsock. Personally I'm sure a pole and wind streamer on my tx would be far more annoying than helpful to me.

But like I said...to each his own.

......Mike
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Old Jan 06, 2011, 04:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ecase View Post
It seems like I read somewhere that you should not have the receiver close to the ESC. It can cause receiver problem. I was thinking of putting my secondary receiver in front of the battery, near the ESC. Will that cause me problems?
After 4 ...1hour flights now...up as far as i can see(with good eyesight)/Feel comfortable in keeping track of the planes orientation.
No Issues.
By Secondary Receiver.you mean the Satellite right?


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Old Jan 06, 2011, 04:32 PM
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Yep, satellite. Its an AR6200.
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Old Jan 06, 2011, 05:36 PM
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Even if the streamer on the antenna were not used to find thermals, I can't even count the multitude of times at the AMA field the guys flying nitro and electric planes checked the wind sock to see the wind direction as they set up for landing. The wind on most days swings around a lot at the field. Take off with wind one direction and land with it in another direction sometimes almost 180 degrees different. A lot of times I have seen people land thinking the wind was in the same direction as when they took off. A mild surprise when they find it is 90 to 180 degrees from the original direction. I have a couple Radio Carbon Art videos where they utilize the streamers for thermal detection and it looks pretty good to me. At first they suggest a couple poles with streamers and one on the Tx. Later they say maybe just use the one on the Tx.

The streamer is an option. I like having options that I can use all the time or only when I think I need or want it.
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Old Jan 06, 2011, 06:50 PM
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Arms and Horns

My new Pro has the arms and horn connections to the servos different than the factory specs in the manual. In fact, no two are the same on like controls (ailerons and flaps). Do you set to factory specs on all controls: ailerons, flaps, rudder and elevator?
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Old Jan 06, 2011, 09:59 PM
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yes... Good way too start is by what HH states in the manual.. then after a few flights to can adjust them too get more/less overall throw out of the control surfaces.
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Last edited by Eastcoast78; Jan 06, 2011 at 11:35 PM.
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Old Jan 07, 2011, 01:18 AM
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Originally Posted by 1911tex View Post
My new Pro has the arms and horn connections to the servos different than the factory specs in the manual. In fact, no two are the same on like controls (ailerons and flaps). Do you set to factory specs on all controls: ailerons, flaps, rudder and elevator?
Be careful with the elevator though I thought since it was so small that it would be a good idea to put the clevis on the next hole. BIG MISTAKE I flew with 0 expo and it was WAY to twitchy to even control.
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Old Jan 07, 2011, 01:33 AM
Dixie Normious
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Yes depending on your flying experience...fly her as the Manuel states...and go form there.
Another thing.Im not sure if your read through the entire tread ,this one and the other one...
Once your powered up and testing your throws etc...trim your Elev and see how it moves..Alot of them and been very tight and nearly un-trimable.Mine is still not as smooth as i would like but its better.May get some Courser Sand paper and really give the rod a good going over.
was also taking the tube out and making less off a S turn in it...
Trim should be noticeable on every click of the trim...Mine took way over 5 clicks too see all the movement at one time after it gave way...

Now i see movement every 2-3 clicks
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Old Jan 07, 2011, 07:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eastcoast78 View Post
May get some Courser Sand paper and really give the rod a good going over.
I'd think courser sandpaper would leave deeper scratches and cause more friction. Wouldn't a "polished" rod finish be slicker? While I like the idea of a dry lube like graphite, I've found that CorrosionX will remove the surface rust and ruffness and then prevent any reoccurance of the rust in the pushrod tube. I used steel wool and red can CorrosionX on mine and it's smooth as glass.

http://www.corrosionx.com/marine.html

McD
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Old Jan 07, 2011, 08:50 AM
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Nice, i went out for a flight and suddenly something fell of the plane.
I landed it without problems and guess what: prop+spinner was gone.



Does this motor shaft looks rubbed off? I think so.
Funny thing about that: i never unscrewed the shaft adapter which fell off, so this is some kind of material defect.
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Old Jan 07, 2011, 09:07 AM
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I can see the flat spot and the indention on the flat spot from the set screw. Looks like due to unknown causes like vibration or lack of thread lock the set screw loosened and the prop went flying.
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Old Jan 07, 2011, 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by e-gull View Post
I can see the flat spot and the indention on the flat spot from the set screw. Looks like due to unknown causes like vibration or lack of thread lock the set screw loosened and the prop went flying.
Jep, one guy from the german HH support said, that it looks like the set screw was loose, but the motor shaft seems okay.

Now i have to wait till his boss reads my mail and then we will see what they can do for me.
I think i will be able to fly again in a week....sad but true.


edit:
LOL, they want me to contact my dealer and my dealer said, please send the whole plane to us and we send it to horizon hobby.
I called HH again and told them that i will definitely not disassemble the whole plane and send it to the dealer which send it to them and wait 2 weeks till i got a screw, prop and spinner back.
The guy on the phone will ask his superior and call me back...oh my god, they should just send me the shaft adapter+spinner and prop.

Update 2:
Okay they will send me the prop and the prop adapter+spinner set. :-)
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Old Jan 07, 2011, 11:39 AM
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Just maidened my pro about 30 mins ago. NICE plane. I had it setup for 2 flap settings. Crow/butterfly as well as camber. Flaps alone do a great job and slow the plane down quite a bit. Crow/butterfly is really really cool to slow the plane down for spot landings. I could put it right where I wanted it. The power was ok but definatly not as good as my brothers Radian (heavier pro I guess). I was using Futaba 10C with 1600mah 25C Nanotech packs. 7ch futaba RX fit I just had to cut a bit of foam out in the receiver area, Im probably going to get an 8ch RX for when I setup FPV on this sucker.
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