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Old Dec 21, 2012, 07:33 AM
It's like an addiction!
Downwind3Zero's Avatar
NY, Rochester
Joined Oct 2003
1,507 Posts
Yes they balance them for you for 20 Euros.
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Old Dec 21, 2012, 07:32 PM
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Jetnfast's Avatar
United States, MO, Warrensburg
Joined Feb 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 420flyboy View Post
Fully closing front gear door and Gary's carbon fiber doors for the mains.
Is Gary offering these already? I didn't see them on his website....
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Old Dec 21, 2012, 07:40 PM
Mile High EDF
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United States, CO, Denver
Joined Jul 2011
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I think Air Sally is making some for Gary , it was some thread in here I saw and asked for a set myself . I think you could ask Gary or Air Sally .
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Old Dec 21, 2012, 07:57 PM
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Jetnfast's Avatar
United States, MO, Warrensburg
Joined Feb 2008
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Sounds good, yeah I guess I ought to PM Gary! How did yours turn out? I also want to get the CF nose door as well to round out the look.
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Old Dec 21, 2012, 09:00 PM
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United States, MO, Warrensburg
Joined Feb 2008
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Well back from my first flight with the ICE lite 100 in the tail cone....

Overall, the castle data logs showed 128F for the max temp with the ICE lite which is considerably lower than the 165-185F average I was seeing with the ICE 100 regular version when I looked at past logs. I will caveat with the fact I never removed the heatsink on the ICE regular version and the positioning of the ESC wasnt exactly dead center in between the ducts, but as close to it as possible. I didnt want to remove thhe heatsink on the regular version like most have suggested here, so I went with the closest to the duct as possible, still very close to the gap.

Bottomline, it seems that everyones results will vary, and alot of other factors probably play a role in the controller temps during flight. One of which was OAT today, near 38F and quite cold. I could have seen closer to the ICE regular temps of 165F if I was flying in warmer weather. So bottomline, I need to wait until things warm up and keep gathering data points, but for now it flies nicely in the tail cone and the CG is much better as well, and now I am ready for 7s on the stock setup!

We may have temps closer to 50F tommorow which is more like standard day conditions...running in 85-95F heat will be the true test!
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Old Dec 22, 2012, 12:25 AM
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United States, TX, Wichita Falls
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Originally Posted by Downwind3Zero View Post
Yes they balance them for you for 20 Euros.
Thanks for the help!
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Old Dec 23, 2012, 05:58 AM
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Taiwan, 北市
Joined Dec 2008
862 Posts
Thanks to all the great help I've gotten from this thread, I'm almost ready to maiden, pending weather and motor/retract installation. For the maiden, do you recommend using or not using crow for landing? I've never used crow before, so should I not use it at first, or does it really take no getting used to? Also, I assume using crow does not change the elevator-flap setting? For example if I'm planning to follow the manual and do 25mm full flap/2mm down elevator for landing, I assume using crow would not influence these numbers?

Would love to hear any input. Tks again!

Kevin
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Old Dec 23, 2012, 08:16 AM
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Jetnfast's Avatar
United States, MO, Warrensburg
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Originally Posted by kchen95 View Post
Thanks to all the great help I've gotten from this thread, I'm almost ready to maiden, pending weather and motor/retract installation. For the maiden, do you recommend using or not using crow for landing? I've never used crow before, so should I not use it at first, or does it really take no getting used to? Also, I assume using crow does not change the elevator-flap setting? For example if I'm planning to follow the manual and do 25mm full flap/2mm down elevator for landing, I assume using crow would not influence these numbers?

Would love to hear any input. Tks again!

Kevin
Hi Kevin,

In my opinion Crow is not needed on this jet. Some have it setup and thats great, but I would say keep it simple, especially for your maiden flight. No sense in complicating the maiden on a new plane with unfamiliar settings, etc. Wring it out on your first couple flights, get a feel for the speed envelope on landing, then mess with the crow. I still suggest using flaps for landing, I roll them half when I line up on final, then about 40-50 ft in altittude from landing, I slowly roll them to full. If you have the reccomended mix of down elevator set, then the jet shouldnt pitch up with the added camber of the wing by deploying the flaps, but it should slow down even more and set you up for a nice smooth flared off landing. The tendency on my first flights with this jet was to land fast, but then I got a feel for how slow I could bleed off the speed, and they got progressively better. I personally feel if you can setup a nice long flat glide to touchdown then that is the key to success.

Good luck!!
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Old Dec 23, 2012, 09:26 AM
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Taiwan, 北市
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Originally Posted by Jetnfast View Post
Hi Kevin,

In my opinion Crow is not needed on this jet. Some have it setup and thats great, but I would say keep it simple, especially for your maiden flight. No sense in complicating the maiden on a new plane with unfamiliar settings, etc. Wring it out on your first couple flights, get a feel for the speed envelope on landing, then mess with the crow. I still suggest using flaps for landing, I roll them half when I line up on final, then about 40-50 ft in altittude from landing, I slowly roll them to full. If you have the reccomended mix of down elevator set, then the jet shouldnt pitch up with the added camber of the wing by deploying the flaps, but it should slow down even more and set you up for a nice smooth flared off landing. The tendency on my first flights with this jet was to land fast, but then I got a feel for how slow I could bleed off the speed, and they got progressively better. I personally feel if you can setup a nice long flat glide to touchdown then that is the key to success.

Good luck!!
Sounds like a sensible plan - tks so much!

Kevin
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Old Dec 23, 2012, 10:21 AM
Michael
United States, ME, Wells
Joined May 2008
1,184 Posts
Long Flat Glide: Key

The reason I employ crow is that one approach end has trees that already ate another pilots Habu 1 (original foam version) and the trees are close enough that you have a very short distance to lose about 80' or thereabouts. Even with full flaps, there is still too much speed if one dives to lose the altitude.

With crow, however, the descent angle can be steeper, but you have to be comfortable with adding throttle to arrest the vertical sink rate; easily learned, IMHO.

The other end has trees farther away, so a flat approach should work. However, even very experienced pilots have lost their models on a long flat approach because of the visual effect of the trees; especially with a small model such as ours. Also, and I was surprised by this, the dark red color does not stand out against a field of trees. So, I use the same approach on both ends.

Michael

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jetnfast View Post
Hi Kevin,

In my opinion Crow is not needed on this jet. Some have it setup and thats great, but I would say keep it simple, especially for your maiden flight. No sense in complicating the maiden on a new plane with unfamiliar settings, etc. Wring it out on your first couple flights, get a feel for the speed envelope on landing, then mess with the crow. I still suggest using flaps for landing, I roll them half when I line up on final, then about 40-50 ft in altittude from landing, I slowly roll them to full. If you have the reccomended mix of down elevator set, then the jet shouldnt pitch up with the added camber of the wing by deploying the flaps, but it should slow down even more and set you up for a nice smooth flared off landing. The tendency on my first flights with this jet was to land fast, but then I got a feel for how slow I could bleed off the speed, and they got progressively better. I personally feel if you can setup a nice long flat glide to touchdown then that is the key to success.

Good luck!!
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Old Dec 23, 2012, 10:32 AM
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United States, MO, Warrensburg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowflake6515 View Post
The reason I employ crow is that one approach end has trees that already ate another pilots Habu 1 (original foam version) and the trees are close enough that you have a very short distance to lose about 80' or thereabouts. Even with full flaps, there is still too much speed if one dives to lose the altitude.

With crow, however, the descent angle can be steeper, but you have to be comfortable with adding throttle to arrest the vertical sink rate; easily learned, IMHO.

The other end has trees farther away, so a flat approach should work. However, even very experienced pilots have lost their models on a long flat approach because of the visual effect of the trees; especially with a small model such as ours. Also, and I was surprised by this, the dark red color does not stand out against a field of trees. So, I use the same approach on both ends.

Michael
Everyones flying field is different, and conditions warrant use of crow just like yours if the approach angle must be steep.
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Old Dec 23, 2012, 07:31 PM
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United States, WV, Huntington
Joined Nov 2005
52 Posts
If anyone has a set of TJ struts for the Habu32 they'd like to sell please PM me.

Thanks
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Old Dec 23, 2012, 07:42 PM
efflux RC's Avatar
United States, CA, Santa Clarita
Joined Aug 2009
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I'll have them back in stock by the end of the week. They won't be on the website until there here.
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Old Dec 23, 2012, 08:01 PM
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United States, NM, Clovis
Joined Oct 2011
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Has any one used the Sapac Viper Jet wheels and brakes on the Habu or know if they will work? I have the tamjets struts and am in need of some wheels/brakes. I have a set of the Sapac's and other than the axle size fitting the tamjets they seem like they would work. Thanks.
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Old Dec 23, 2012, 08:06 PM
efflux RC's Avatar
United States, CA, Santa Clarita
Joined Aug 2009
8,905 Posts
We carry the SAPAC Viper struts. They are a great product and will be offering them (along with the new electric retracts and brakes)for our new full composite F-20 as well.

Buuuut...
The SAPAC struts are for a 5lb MAX aircraft. (70mm) and not adequate for the 7-8lb Habu 32.
You might be able to bet a proper bushing size to replace the bearing in the SAPAC rims. You could possibly drill out one the bushings from these wheels, or get a bronze bearing from McMaster Carr
I'll look into it.
Tamjets has a Wheel/Brake kit for the Habu 32.
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Last edited by efflux RC; Dec 23, 2012 at 08:13 PM.
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