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Old Apr 15, 2012, 08:36 PM
737DRIVER
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United States, CA, Woodbridge
Joined Mar 2008
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Husafreak

Eric, that video turned out really cool! Really like the clouds reflecting off the bottom of the BU. Nice burp at the end of the vid, very nice touch! Hey, thanks for the heli book in my mailbox, reading it now! Thanks for the phone call this weekend to fly, good job!!

Tom
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Old Apr 16, 2012, 09:06 AM
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United States, CA, San Diego
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Here is a video taken with a small camera attached to the top of the left inlet. Plane is powered with a TJ80 fan and NeuMotors 1512/1.5Y on 10S 3300s. Flies great!
Habu 32 April 15 San Diego.mov (5 min 27 sec)

Steve Neu
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Old Apr 16, 2012, 10:40 AM
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Cool videos guys, thanks for sharing, 10s, 12s !! Yo Tom! Don't you "work" weekends? As for the burp, I think the filmmaker gets credit for that, I'm just glad he didn't put a fart in there on me...
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Old Apr 16, 2012, 06:10 PM
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Will a gear door cut some of the airflow that goes through the ESC (which is sucked between the duct gap)?
A door is tempting, but it will close the existing opening for the front gear and wheel.
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Old Apr 16, 2012, 06:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whisperdancer View Post
Will a gear door cut some of the airflow that goes through the ESC (which is sucked between the duct gap)?
A door is tempting, but it will close the existing opening for the front gear and wheel.
A nose gear door will eliminate air being sucked up through that space(most of it) while more concentrated air flow wil occur at the gap your refering to.If your ESC is located there...try to log the temperatures on your ESC and see if the nose door did anything postive toward cooling proporties of your electronics/batteries.Bet it makes a difference.
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Old Apr 16, 2012, 09:56 PM
737DRIVER
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sneu

Great video quality. What kind of camera is that?
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Old Apr 16, 2012, 10:59 PM
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United States, CA, Santa Clarita
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whisperdancer View Post
Will a gear door cut some of the airflow that goes through the ESC (which is sucked between the duct gap)?
A door is tempting, but it will close the existing opening for the front gear and wheel.
We have 4 Habus currently flying, with Castle ESCs They all have the ESC mounted in front the opening where the ducts converge. None have had heat issues.
I remove the plastic case from thenewer ICE ESCs. glue the two heat sinks half together with Artic Silver epoxy (just a few dots on each side)
The Esc will fit above the battery tray, but I put it in a hole dremeled in the battery plate riser, down below.

The NACA duct under the nose brings in plenty of air. I cleaned up (removed)the lip at the inlet with Dremel on all of them.

There have been quite a number of instances of flying the Habu 32 with no nose gear door, where the canopy comes flying off at high speed due to the pressure build up in the cockpit.
This is a problem with the canopy latch pin being a bit too short. You can screw a 2mm screw into the end of the latch pin (as Lashmett did).
I didn't have a screw the first time, so I screwed in a CF rod and epoxied an Alum tube over it.
I do this to all Habu's, even with full gear doors.

To each his own, but there's a few ideas for you
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Old Apr 16, 2012, 11:35 PM
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United States, CA, San Diego
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tvessie View Post
Great video quality. What kind of camera is that?
It is this one :http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=17200 -- $36 plus shipping.

Steve
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Old Apr 17, 2012, 01:04 AM
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I have acouple of those and those go to 720p, but that first vid I was asking about I noticed went to 1080...
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Old Apr 17, 2012, 01:52 AM
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That is the same camera Jason used, I just bought one for myself. had to pick up a Rare Bear Fun racer too make it worthwhile.
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Old Apr 17, 2012, 08:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by efflux RC View Post
We have 4 Habus currently flying, with Castle ESCs They all have the ESC mounted in front the opening where the ducts converge. None have had heat issues.
I remove the plastic case from thenewer ICE ESCs. glue the two heat sinks half together with Artic Silver epoxy (just a few dots on each side)
The Esc will fit above the battery tray, but I put it in a hole dremeled in the battery plate riser, down below.

The NACA duct under the nose brings in plenty of air. I cleaned up (removed)the lip at the inlet with Dremel on all of them.

There have been quite a number of instances of flying the Habu 32 with no nose gear door, where the canopy comes flying off at high speed due to the pressure build up in the cockpit.
This is a problem with the canopy latch pin being a bit too short. You can screw a 2mm screw into the end of the latch pin (as Lashmett did).
I didn't have a screw the first time, so I screwed in a CF rod and epoxied an Alum tube over it.
I do this to all Habu's, even with full gear doors.

To each his own, but there's a few ideas for you
The Naca duct seems small, but I have no experience on this and I didn’t knew the airflow running on it.
I hopefully will start the assembly now (servos and epoxy should arrive this week), so I want to get it right the first time.

My ESC will definitely need cooling, as I’m using a YGE 80A (stock fan and motor, external BEC). Although the YGE’s are very reliable and known to stay cool even with high currents, I don’t want to risk the entire plane.~
I don’t plan to upgrade just yet because if I like the EDF scene I will want to get a more powerful setup later (maybe 12s with two 6s in series instead of parallel).

I am planning to put the ESC exactly in the front of the duct gap (with the top and bottom being vertical, caps to the front), as it doesn’t have a hard case (just heatshrink) and air can flow through it.

Extending the latch pin is on the agenda, so is threadlocking the latch ball.

Thank you for all the ideas (I'm reading the entire thread, but I'm still on page 270... )
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Old Apr 17, 2012, 11:53 AM
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I have a CC Pheonix 85HV sitting between the ducts with no additional cooling, full nose gear door. It is fine, many flights, that ESC has cooling fins though, If you use a "lite" type ESC w/out fins I would bring some air in there. NACA ducts are available from BVM for installation in any plane. (But the standard gear door cutout will bring plenty of air.) They do a great job. On our Henseleit TDR 700 class helis we put a tiny 10mmx20mm NACA duct in the canopy and it brings the temps down over 20 degrees on those monster 12s 5000 mah setups.
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Old Apr 17, 2012, 12:39 PM
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Canada, ON, Hamilton
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whisperdancer View Post
The Naca duct seems small, but I have no experience on this and I didn’t knew the airflow running on it.
I hopefully will start the assembly now (servos and epoxy should arrive this week), so I want to get it right the first time.

My ESC will definitely need cooling, as I’m using a YGE 80A (stock fan and motor, external BEC). Although the YGE’s are very reliable and known to stay cool even with high currents, I don’t want to risk the entire plane.~
I don’t plan to upgrade just yet because if I like the EDF scene I will want to get a more powerful setup later (maybe 12s with two 6s in series instead of parallel).

I am planning to put the ESC exactly in the front of the duct gap (with the top and bottom being vertical, caps to the front), as it doesn’t have a hard case (just heatshrink) and air can flow through it.

Extending the latch pin is on the agenda, so is threadlocking the latch ball.

Thank you for all the ideas (I'm reading the entire thread, but I'm still on page 270... )
This is a great upgrade for guys flying in hot weather with a stock set up. This will give you a heat-sink for the motor and the ability to put your esc in the tail cone.Oh Yeah..it wont break the bank!

http://www.tamjets.com/original/popup_image.php?pID=653
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Old Apr 17, 2012, 01:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZACATTACK View Post
This is a great upgrade for guys flying in hot weather with a stock set up. This will give you a heat-sink for the motor and the ability to put your esc in the tail cone.Oh Yeah..it wont break the bank!

http://www.tamjets.com/original/popup_image.php?pID=653
very nice ! if it fits the sock motor, where can I order one online?

thanks, v.
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Old Apr 17, 2012, 01:37 PM
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United States, CA, Santa Clarita
Joined Aug 2009
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@ wisperdancer,


When using ESCs that don't have the big external Heat sinks, (YGE, Castle, etc.) I like to cut away the heat shrink at the cap end and the motor lead end so the air can flow thru the ESC.
There are heat sinks those ESCs as well they are just little metal plates or bars on the FETs.
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