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Old Jan 01, 2012, 08:38 PM
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Jetnfast's Avatar
United States, MO, Warrensburg
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...well did a quick search of the thread...probably should have done that first but my frustrated mindset told me otherwise. Should have used dish soap, and should have used different screws! lesson learned! looks like a previous post or two has advice on how to back these ones out. wish me luck!
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Old Jan 01, 2012, 08:39 PM
efflux RC's Avatar
United States, CA, Santa Clarita
Joined Aug 2009
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Get some #4 x 5/8 wood screws from the local hardware store.
Drill the holes in the wood for the of the screws before inserting.

You can get the brokem screw out by dremeling a "moat" around it, so you can grab the screw stub with a small pair of dikes (for a good "bite"), and twist the screw out. Fill the hole with 30 minute epoxy. fter the epoxy cures over night, drill a new hole in it for the new screw.

I was typing when steveair posted.
I may have photo of the repair.
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Old Jan 01, 2012, 08:55 PM
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United States, CA, Santa Clarita
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With the holidays over, and some great weather in LA today, We got out with the Shubie-Habu. The jet had to retrimmed after putting my own rx in it, and programming it to my Tx. The original nose door was troublesome, so I removed it. Harry did a great job of flying her for the first times, but the passes could have been a bit cleaner.
The fastest pass we saw in about 5 mph wind today was 161 mph. (with out a nose gear door) All in all, it was a great day, and the field was quite crowded.
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Old Jan 01, 2012, 09:43 PM
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United States, MO, Warrensburg
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fellas thanks for the quick and timely help! I was able to use a brass tube as a dremel bit and work around the screw to get enough area to grab at it as mentioned above. surprisingly one of them didnt require much off the top around the screw to get to it, but the other I had to go about halfway down. I am going to mix up some epoxy and microballons as a filler and let it set overnight. hopefully I can find some replacement screws tommorow (day off work!) and get the retracts installed. Happy New Year!
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Old Jan 01, 2012, 09:47 PM
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United States, CA, Santa Clarita
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I forgot to mention the #4 x 5/8" wood screws are "flat head". (of course)
Don't forget to pre drill the holes a bit. The screws should not be real hard to screw in. That's part of the reason the cheap stock ones broke.

Happy New Year!
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Old Jan 01, 2012, 10:18 PM
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United States, MO, Warrensburg
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Believe it or not, I actually predrilled the holes and used CA to harden them before screwing in the stock ones....and they still broke!
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Old Jan 01, 2012, 10:39 PM
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You don't need the CA.
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Old Jan 02, 2012, 12:52 AM
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Canada, ON, Hamilton
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Originally Posted by jwjohnson View Post
You don't need the CA.
I do dis-agree...CA the drilled mounting holes.The wood splits & splinters if CA is not used as a hardener. Why would'nt you use CA??
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Old Jan 02, 2012, 01:11 AM
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San Diego
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The idea is to predrill, screw them in, then take them back out, add the CA then screw them in again. If you just drill and then CA then it makes screwing them in very difficult and it could strip or break, the CA is just to harden the threads created in the wood after you have screwed them in the first time which created the wood threads. Common process reccomended by lots of quality manufactures.
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Old Jan 02, 2012, 04:13 AM
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LV, NV
Joined Apr 2003
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Maiden Complete

4 Flights logged on my new Habu32. The plane flys very good, inverted flight is effortless. I used all the available hardware with no issues or broken screws. I will install the main gear doors this week as well as some cockpit detail. I am thinking about strapping my hat cam on the Habu32 for some in flight video in 1080 HD. I ordered another canopy to shoot video through the cockpit. This should be a fun year...

P. Richards aka SwatTeam
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Old Jan 02, 2012, 06:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jetnfast View Post
Believe it or not, I actually predrilled the holes and used CA to harden them before screwing in the stock ones....and they still broke!
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZACATTACK View Post
I do dis-agree...CA the drilled mounting holes.The wood splits & splinters if CA is not used as a hardener. Why would'nt you use CA??
Main reason I said he doesn't need the CA is because he did it wrong. You should drill, screw in the screws, remove them, then add CA and harden the hole. If you just put the CA in the drilled hole he is increasing the chance of a screw breaking.

I still think it may be better to forgo the CA in some cases. It is better to have the screws pull out of the block than have the block torn out of the wing or the gear damaged on a hard landing.
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Old Jan 02, 2012, 07:07 AM
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Lenox Twp., Michigan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bri6672 View Post
The idea is to predrill, screw them in, then take them back out, add the CA then screw them in again. If you just drill and then CA then it makes screwing them in very difficult and it could strip or break, the CA is just to harden the threads created in the wood after you have screwed them in the first time which created the wood threads. Common process reccomended by lots of quality manufactures.
My same exact procedure, but, if I could add something else..........after you take the screws out for the first time and add CA, wait at least an hour for the CA to completely harden and set before permanently reinstalling the screws.

Always buy any of your screws/nuts/bolts from a reputable supplier. Until the Chinese can prove to me they know how to treat and case harden screws or any type of spring, I will continue to send them to the trash can.

I don't like getting grade "zero" springs or fasteners.

Joe M.
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Old Jan 02, 2012, 09:39 AM
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Canada, ON, Hamilton
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwjohnson View Post
Main reason I said he doesn't need the CA is because he did it wrong. You should drill, screw in the screws, remove them, then add CA and harden the hole. If you just put the CA in the drilled hole he is increasing the chance of a screw breaking.

I still think it may be better to forgo the CA in some cases. It is better to have the screws pull out of the block than have the block torn out of the wing or the gear damaged on a hard landing.
Point is here..CA no CA..srcews should not be breaking...When you purchase this Kit..throw out those srcrews...This was realized a long time ago and still E-Flite continues on with the garbage screws!!
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Old Jan 02, 2012, 02:04 PM
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United States, MO, Warrensburg
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Originally Posted by jwjohnson View Post
Main reason I said he doesn't need the CA is because he did it wrong. You should drill, screw in the screws, remove them, then add CA and harden the hole.

Actually I did it exactly per the manual as you stated above.

...anyhow, I was able to get all 4 screws into each retract mount, but they are not exactly flush with the mount. I don't particularly like that fact but the retracts are 100% secure against the mounts and that is what matters most. Even though it is not perfect, I dont think it is worth it to try and back them out, fill the holes with epoxy/microballons and redrill, since the bit has the tendency to follow the same hold as drilled before if it is only off by a hair.

I would have prefered regular machine srews instead of the counter sunk/wood screws.
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Old Jan 02, 2012, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by zacattack View Post
point is here..ca no ca..srcews should not be breaking...when you purchase this kit..throw out those srcrews...this was realized a long time ago and still e-flite continues on with the garbage screws!!
exactly!
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