Originally Posted by hole digger

Tam,

If yorr works computer is working I could really use a picture of the K&A Mig nose gear door.

If scratching my head right now.

Pete

Can you wait for that?
I just got my computer back online and there is a lot things to do before I can doing a favor works.

Originally Posted by gambok

Rude is when you posted you don't have the time to read the thread and will ask question after question that has already been covered in detail.
Kid don't try and tell we what I'm supposed to do on the web and bring American's into this.
Do your own reading,research, building and flying , it's called experience or do you want someone to fly it for you too?

That's the best you can do? Your a joke..............

Originally Posted by Tamjets

Can you wait for that?
I just got my computer back online and there is a lot things to do before I can doing a favor works.

OK Tam
Whenever you have time.

Thanks
Pete

Originally Posted by dbgood

Just went to spool up and do a watt test with the TJ80 1509 2y,not installed in plane yet and no thrust tube attached...The ICE 100 says on data logging 71.2 max amps,and only 1819 max watts..?? And thats on med timing..
Only second jet i owned since 8 yrs of flying..I hear i shoud be around 92 or so amps,and 2800-2900 watts max on med timing,and 3200 watts on high timing!! I dont understand,
Is it because the fan isnt inside of the plane and thrust tube not attached?
Thanks for anyones help,
Dan

Dan,
This is the number you had ran the fan without install on mid timing and I had verify with you is correct.
After installl spool up the fan full power and sucking FOD. You had done some repair your own and ran the fan again. The watts you had post is way out of spec and there should be send back for inspection if the motor got damage.
Hope this data clear the air and stop blame the fan problem.

Originally Posted by rvincent

What rpm's Tam? You must be near 50k with 3kw?

Just down load the data at the peak continues power.

31.5V, 96.3A, 3030 watts, Temp 142, RPM 53,728

Yeah I thought so Very nice Tam. You dynamic thrust and efflux will be very high.

I just flew my stocker on 7S 3200s. 3S+4S
It was definitely faster with better vertical but I need to fix up a better series connector this one I bought for cheap and the 3 fake deans connectors were getting pretty warm.
So I'm losing some power there plus the connectors won't last long.
Anyhow, ran it up pre-flight to get some numbers.
2000W @ 77A
A nice jump from my stock 1600W 70A
Flew several hi-speed passes with under 1/2 throttle passes inbetween.
4 minute timer went off so I landed (hardpack rocky dirt field)and something broke in the nosegear retract and it partially folded under.
Took it apart, the part the worm drive moves back and forth had snapped one ear off.
The trunnion is fine, removed snapped off piece and reassembled. Retract works normal again but don't know for how long!

Originally Posted by crashguru

I double-checked the canopy and flexed it a good bit again. Again, no peeling, flaking, cracks or lines. It looks like the paint has bonded pretty tight to whatever the clear material is. The Habu was sitting in 90+ degree heat last weekend for hours. By this time I think if there was gonna be trouble, it would have shown up by now.

Let me know what you decide to do!

hi crash. got to the hobby store lookin for the pactra paint i talked to staffer there and he showed me tamiya clear orange, sooo after 3 coats it looks ok and see thru, which was what i was attempting with the dye, didn't know they made see thru paint... need to get out more.
on another note i maidened my habu today...straight down the grass runway and into the tall grass...the canopy stands out pretty good against the green
i got going good and thought i heard the motor hick-up twice so i aborted, minor rash and straightened out nose gear. did a test taxi same hick-up. when i played with it in the pits it died. all servos/functions work and i didn't see any magic smoke. damn good thing i didn't get it up in the air....woulda had to paint another canopy

Bruce,
I confess broke the nose gear on saturday maiden too. Coming to slow and drop the nose first. The trunion broke. But lucky had plenty of parts in stock after cranking out so many Habu.
Yesterday on my third landing. Everything is perfect and smooth.
My main gear broke off and tear the wood rail off. I roll my eye and said what that all about. That is nice landing. This might be the result on saturday and I blame on me.
But tonight I goes over what cause the gear broke off and I inspect the glue join on the wing rail. Barely any glue was use and pull the rail out so easy.
I suggest every one check gear mounting rail and add medium CA around the join.
If you had loose rail and can easy damage the main gear.

I'm more mad that had perfect flying plane with new TJ80SE hauling mail.
Now had to repair and redo the maiden again.

Originally Posted by bmiller

I just flew my stocker on 7S 3200s. 3S+4S
It was definitely faster with better vertical but I need to fix up a better series connector this one I bought for cheap and the 3 fake deans connectors were getting pretty warm.
So I'm losing some power there plus the connectors won't last long.
Anyhow, ran it up pre-flight to get some numbers.
2000W @ 77A
A nice jump from my stock 1600W 70A
Flew several hi-speed passes with under 1/2 throttle passes inbetween.
4 minute timer went off so I landed (hardpack rocky dirt field)and something broke in the nosegear retract and it partially folded under.
Took it apart, the part the worm drive moves back and forth had snapped one ear off.
The trunnion is fine, removed snapped off piece and reassembled. Retract works normal again but don't know for how long!

If you mix "real" deans with fake deans, You can get and intermittent connnection. It's happened to me.
If you use Deans. Be sure EVERYTHING is genuine Deans.

rod22, sounds like one motor wire came loose, if you kept applying throttle with it hick upping like that, chances are the ESC burned up. Don't ask me how I know!

Tam, I wish the trunnion broke on mine! Then I would've had an excuse to upgrade to your struts!
btw, When my nose gear folded, the nose hit the ground and stopped the plane quickly, Now my perfect jets got a couple small stress cracks on the fuse and the canopy latch unglued itself.

Originally Posted by rod22

hi crash. got to the hobby store lookin for the pactra paint i talked to staffer there and he showed me tamiya clear orange, sooo after 3 coats it looks ok and see thru, which was what i was attempting with the dye, didn't know they made see thru paint... need to get out more.
on another note i maidened my habu today...straight down the grass runway and into the tall grass...the canopy stands out pretty good against the green
i got going good and thought i heard the motor hick-up twice so i aborted, minor rash and straightened out nose gear. did a test taxi same hick-up. when i played with it in the pits it died. all servos/functions work and i didn't see any magic smoke. damn good thing i didn't get it up in the air....woulda had to paint another canopy

Can you tell the Forum some details? What motor? What ESC? Your set-up programs in your ESC? The Results? Thanx>>>

Originally Posted by efflux RC

If you mix "real" deans with fake deans, You can get and intermittent connnection. It's happened to me.
If you use Deans. Be sure EVERYTHING is genuine Deans.

The fake deans connect really easily after the flight!
Theres hardly any tension left to hold the connection together.
I wonder what kind of crappy metal they use on those things!

Originally Posted by bmiller

The fake deans connect really easily after the flight!
Theres hardly any tension left to hold the connection together.
I wonder what kind of crappy metal they use on those things!

It is the plastic are not rate at high temp.
It melt and the connector came loose.
Why the hell you guys using copy Dean?
I caught my friends using it and I give them hell. Pack of real Dean only $5 and crappy copy dean many few buck. But the risk taking is huge.
I had maiden a plane with copy dean. After take off and go around for 30sec.
No power.
After dead stick landing.
The copy dean kept off completely. Lucky no short the wire.
I give Al, John and Dave hell every time see them with copy Dean.
I rather throw them a bags of real Dean and charge them double to save them from crashing a plane for stupid copy Dean.

If you have Tams struts and your landings are like mine, then you need to purchase some spare springs for the struts. They work as designed so if you come in hard, the struts will do the job, but the springs may be stretched.
As there is little room in the wheel wells, if the springs stretch, the wheels can be mis-aligned and therefore not retract correctly.
So, get a few extra sets of springs for the struts from Tam, I am.