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Old Jan 17, 2013, 07:08 PM
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fg1972's Avatar
Australia, Melbourne
Joined Jul 2010
427 Posts
Mine is a high powered 4S setup much faster than stock on 4S and full throttle underhand launches are no problem at all. I usually just release it without needing to throw the plane.
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Old Jan 17, 2013, 07:18 PM
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United States, GA, Snellville
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike_eee View Post
cant wait to get one..but gosh no one has them in stock in USA
Grayson has a dynam container in route..... shouldn't be long
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Old Jan 17, 2013, 09:38 PM
Quest for Speed!!!
Mike_eee's Avatar
Fremont,CA
Joined Aug 2005
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that's an awesome news
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Old Jan 20, 2013, 12:54 AM
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fg1972's Avatar
Australia, Melbourne
Joined Jul 2010
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A little progress.
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Old Jan 20, 2013, 05:23 AM
Wats the worst that can happen
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Canada, BC, Surrey
Joined Jan 2009
542 Posts
Super nice install.
Like to see the front landing gear install, as well as know what models retracts and from where they were purchased.
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Old Jan 20, 2013, 05:54 AM
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Australia, VIC, Melbourne
Joined Nov 2006
11,773 Posts
Those oleo legs should be great for grass or rough ground!
Maybe from Lander? There are a few of that type around. (none that I have seen at HobbyKing though - boo).
And a very nice large mounting plate too!

Lately I have been fibrglassing stuff... landing gear areas mainly. eg inside nose of the Meteor.
Epoxy resin and glass. I use HobbyKing 20min Finish Cure... it is very thin, and you brush it on (with a cheap 50c brush to throw away!)
You can lay that even over those large wing plates, and go another 25mm (or whatever) and notably increase the area/strength. And 48gm cloth is still very fine so the finish is very good.
And then also over a large portion/area inside the nose - from mounting plate to foam - to form a strong 'box' effect.
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Last edited by PeterVRC; Jan 20, 2013 at 05:59 AM.
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Old Jan 20, 2013, 01:01 PM
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United Kingdom, England, Stokeinteignhead
Joined Apr 2008
175 Posts
I went to the field today and flew the Meteor on the new Zippy compacts.The temperature was minus 1 so only had the one flight. I set the timer for 4 mins. Hand launch was really easy,it just pulled away from my hand with a slight push.Well,what can i say,fantastic performance.So much more alive than on the 4s,will not be using them again
I flew with a mixture of cruising and WOT.This jet really screams now.Started my landing circuit after 3 minutes.Landing was really fast as there was nearly zero wind.
Battery was only just warm so didnt over do it. I have put it on charge but had a connection break half way through the charging process,so not sure what was put back in. The cells were showing around 3.85 after the flight so not bad at all.
I will doppler it next time.
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Old Jan 20, 2013, 03:27 PM
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fg1972's Avatar
Australia, Melbourne
Joined Jul 2010
427 Posts
The struts are from EPF Hobby Link
which are very light (12grams incl wheel) and very well made much nicer & stronger than the HK 7075 but are triple the price.
The retracts are from Hobby King Link
Struts accept a 4mm pin and the retract pin hole has been enlarged from 3 to 4mm to accept ~4mm piano wire.
Mr VRC, the glassing idea is a good one, in fact I have some of that finishing epoxy and thin glass sheets on hand which I will think about applying.
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Last edited by fg1972; Jan 20, 2013 at 05:32 PM. Reason: typo
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Old Jan 20, 2013, 04:54 PM
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Australia, VIC, Melbourne
Joined Nov 2006
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If you can do it/fit it on a plane then beefing up the landing gear is very useful! (eg your large mount plate etc). It is the achilles heel of model aircraft!! So if you can do it well... properly, with thought about stresses and where they are, and will go etc,... then you can have very robust and long lasting landing gear that you do not have to bend/repair every day out or so! hehe
Though I am still mounted of fthe stock plastic plate and it is lasting fine! They are really well glued in, and ribbed, into the wing it seems. But a large plate is still even stronger.

Those trailing links will also help a LOT too!! But, phew, expensive.
Though could be well worth their cost in longer life and less aircraft damages/repairs over time too!
They are definitely better quality that the 7075's, though the 7075's seem up to the job fine too - but those trailing links ones are still going to be even better.

Which nose leg/wheel did you pick?
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Old Jan 20, 2013, 05:13 PM
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fg1972's Avatar
Australia, Melbourne
Joined Jul 2010
427 Posts
The EPF struts were purchased months ago for another composite aircraft which were not suitable so had them sitting there. I also have a set of 7075's which would be fine for this application if I didn't already have the EPF's.
I have 3 x EPF struts so may use the same one in the nose, I'm pretty sure I can get it to fit
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Old Jan 20, 2013, 05:43 PM
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Needs a wheel change then? Might be a bit big.
I don't think the trailing link will cause any notable steering issue at all really. But it might cause a bit of a nuisance if/when the wheel ever 'rotates/steers' a bit during retraction. So it might need extra attention to adding bits that make sure it is always dead straight during retraction.

That issue (a nose wheel trying to turn as it retacts) was the final 'issue' I had to develop a way to overcome in pushrod steering. I wanted the whole physics/geometry 'formula' to be able to implement it in any plane, to be a fixed known process so it is 100% reliably re-peatable and reliable/solid too. And no freeplay ever too.
There is a bit more to setting up precise and also totally reliable retract steering system than it would seem! Not many people at all are achieving that.
But there are a few manufacturers of PNF's now getting it all worked out and done I have noted lately - though some with fractional shortfalls still.
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 12:29 AM
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fg1972's Avatar
Australia, Melbourne
Joined Jul 2010
427 Posts
We'll see, I have a few wheels that I could try but seriously the EPF wheels aren't that big anyway.
My preference is to not go too small for the nose wheel because if the plane over shoots the runway (happens frequently at our field) into the grass, there might be less chance of a small wheel getting caught causing an aircraft carrier style sudden stop and possible damage.
Getting the wheel to centre while being retracted is another story, I should be able to do something where the strut straighten as it starts to close. Will get to that eventually.
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Old Jan 22, 2013, 01:17 AM
Quest for Speed!!!
Mike_eee's Avatar
Fremont,CA
Joined Aug 2005
1,190 Posts
do u guys think that this is a good deal??

http://www.snhobbies.com/product_inf...3598b2a24f89e4


shipping is like 45 bucks to CA ...

not sure if they have any discount coupons /codes
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Old Jan 22, 2013, 04:10 AM
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United States, GA, Snellville
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853 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike_eee View Post
do u guys think that this is a good deal??

http://www.snhobbies.com/product_inf...3598b2a24f89e4


shipping is like 45 bucks to CA ...

not sure if they have any discount coupons /codes
I was at grayson today, I asked for you an ETA on the next dynam shipment, and was told about 2 weeks (assuming there are no hold ups).

Hope that helps.
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Old Jan 25, 2013, 11:24 PM
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fg1972's Avatar
Australia, Melbourne
Joined Jul 2010
427 Posts
I've had a frustrating time with those HK metal trinion retracts where they are unable to close properly due to the strut thickness. After a few tests they sometimes won't open as there is too much pressure on them when closed and i cannot do any more filing without weakening something. I've put in a set of the plastic trinion versions which are a bit larger and deeper but at least they are able to close properly. Also have taken Peter's advise and done some thin glassing that overlaps the plywood plates for added strength. Name: ImageUploadedByTapatalk1359174232.552268.jpg
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