Nitroplanes and Hobbypartz sell the line of motors.

Jason

I bought this motor - http://www.rctopshop.com/en/brands/l...or-4polig.html

75$ shipped.

Motor is 145Gms . Out of Sight vertical with the Minifan.
coupled with a 3700 25C pack.
In hindsight the best pack would actually be the extremely light 3000mah 6S 20C pack. you would loose the 100 gms and still fly for around 4 Minutes.

I am not kidding when i think that this is probably the best motor out there.
Effeciency is better than any thing else i have owned, and i have more than afew of the HET's and the Mega's.
This one outperforms them at a very reasonable cost.

Will get a video up pretty soon.

Originally Posted by kremecheze

where can i buy a leopard motor from in the us?

Ravikoth, when you say Minifan is that the CS10 or something else? Link please!

The motor looks quality. 90%+ efficiency is nothing to sniff about. Cheers

The Minifan is a WEMO. That is what they call their 70mm fan.
Midifan for the 90mm
They are a 4-blade fan I am pretty sure. They can sound better than typical 5 or 6 blade, if they are driven to high RPM. They are made well (German) and can run higher RPM than cheapies, thus they can wind out to very high RPM.
But..... still not really near a CS10 sound.

Peter Is correct on all fronts, except the minifan is 5 bladed. every chinese rotor out there is a knock off on this excellent design. Light weight too.

The minifan doesnt sound as nice as the CS. However the efficiency just cannot be beat. Although the fan at 40K rpm sounds pretty good to me.

In the meteor i couldn't hear the CS at all, except when she was over me

And the Wemotec is miles better in terms of effeciency, the pack temps & flight times speak volumes.

I do not sit in a basement fretting over Watts & Amps. for me all that has been done over & over again. And there are experts on every fan thread who's results are very reliable.

Its the flying that i base my "results" and "recommendations" on............

and i kid you not, the new standard for "me" is the leopard/Wemo on the 6S 3000 20C packs. Decent speed (Foamies are draggy anyway) i would rather fly at 10mph less and for 6 min. than be a lipo slayer at 3 Min.

By the way i did get my WEmotec Minifan from Gary At Efflux, fast shipping, great guy.

http://www.effluxrc.com/WeMoTec-Mini...er-MF001-4.htm

the above is the 4mm Shaft version, perfect fit on the leopards.

Cheers
Ravi

Originally Posted by Flyindude

Ravikoth, when you say Minifan is that the CS10 or something else? Link please!

The motor looks quality. 90%+ efficiency is nothing to sniff about. Cheers

I wouldn't trust the 90% efficiency factor entirely, its probably at par or maybe slightly better than the other brands.

But where it scores is that its got greater mass and the heat dissipation is outstanding. i held it after a long WOT run, and it was Mildly warm.

In edf motors Heat is everything, and that's where the system efficiency comes in.

I also attached a 28mm Heatsink with thermal paste on it. and it runs much cooler than any of my other motors.

Quite a gem.

I'm trying to install the inexpensive HK front landing gear into my Meteor. After giving up totally on using the steering linkage, I've decided to go the pull-pull route. I thought this would be a sloppy method to permit steering, but as long as the wire is taunt it seems to be very accurate.
I've successfully installed and adjusted the retracts so that the movement and steering work very well.
My trouble begins when the gear retracts and tension loosens on the wires. On occasion the wheel will twist and bind in the foam channel. Other times the dark metal steering bar you see in the picture that's attached to the strut twists and binds against the retract itself. In both cases I only have a few seconds to cut power or rectify before the unit burns out. Of course this needs to be conclusively solved before it sees any airtime, or I'll be replacing it again.

What do others do about this?

Thanks!

TheCure, I had similar trouble on a pull pull retractable tail wheel. I used thin rubber bands (springs might last longer though) attached to an added control horn that pointed straight ahead. I set it up so the rubber bands were always trying to keep the tail wheel pointed straight, but the rudder servo could easily stretch them to steer. The rubber bands were pulling to the sides of the wheel bay. You might be able to get this kind of setup to work in your situation, although someone probably has a simpler plan, maybe some smooth guides on the sides of the wheel bays.

Originally Posted by TheCure

I'm trying to install the inexpensive HK front landing gear into my Meteor. After giving up totally on using the steering linkage, I've decided to go the pull-pull route. I thought this would be a sloppy method to permit steering, but as long as the wire is taunt it seems to be very accurate.
I've successfully installed and adjusted the retracts so that the movement and steering work very well.
My trouble begins when the gear retracts and tension loosens on the wires. On occasion the wheel will twist and bind in the foam channel. Other times the dark metal steering bar you see in the picture that's attached to the strut twists and binds against the retract itself. In both cases I only have a few seconds to cut power or rectify before the unit burns out. Of course this needs to be conclusively solved before it sees any airtime, or I'll be replacing it again.

What do others do about this?

Thanks!

I guess I did it differently...

Yeah, pushrod steering is the only way to get 100% reliable operating steering, that also stows away cleanly cleanly too. That is, as long as you do make it all up correctly!
It is EASY..... but you do need to understand HOW the geometry works. Mainly so it doesn't stall the steering servo, or turn the nosewheel as it stores it - which it will do when done wrong.

Those new HobbyKing CS retracts, that you can get with the arm assembly already on them, are great items. They make it easier than ever, and the design is done very well.

Mray's looks a great setup! I always put the servo vertically, but on its side like that would still be fine and would even make it all easier to put together! It all mounts onto one plain flat plywood plate....
To have the servo vertical you need to cut out a hole for it - but I guess at least that also gives the surface to screw it onto.

My Meteor nose wheel closes rearwards.... but on my next one it will go FORWARDS!! That is stronger - so very much like Mray's, and I will decide on the servo orientation then.

I guess I don't understand the geometry then - I tried many mounting positions, but the pushrod steering kept binding. I didn't have the nice looking pushrod hardware MRAY has in the picture. That may have helped.
Nonetheless I used Crashmaster39's suggestion and used an elastic tied to both pushrod mounting holes that circles the nose of the plane. I'm going to leave as is until I've proven this foolproof.
Thanks

I also modified the elevator actuation while I was at it. I wasnt happy with the elevator throws, and hookey method of actuation. Seemed to me this was an inevitable point of future failure. I added an extra servo to the tail on a servo reverser running off the same elevator cable.Both sides are directly connected to their own servo. The elevator now has twice the travel as stock - and is much more bullet proof. They almost look like airbrakes at full deflection. This should help much on the anemic loops it used to perform.
The landing gear addition made the airframe more nore heavy, so the addition of this extra weight on the tail re-balanced the plane back to the 4" CoG.

Here's hoping the modified Meteor flys well!

Good idea with the new elevator servo layout!! It needs something like that!
I guess you removed the wire arrms. And did you re-hinge the elevators, to have decent hinging?

I will have to do that mod!!
Though there might be a limitation reached of the fairly weak tailplane, in some extreme manouever cases!

I did not remove the stock wire arms actually. I am big on testing something new before discard the old. Don't know if you can notice in the picture the plastic retaining arms are still on the elevator. It doesnt look very elegant, but at least i can backpedal if this doesnt work out. Once I have proven the new arrangement, I will remove all traces of the ugly stock elevator activation mechanism.
I did not re-hinge the elevators, as I put tape on them long ago which is holding up very nicely.
I'll let you know how it flies, however I'm not sure when (and where) i can fly it. I need a long paved road to maiden the new retracts. Don't want to take off from the bumping, wet grass field I was using in the summer until I know all is sound.

Hi,

I'm getting a Meteor and would like to know what essential mods it needs.

I tried to go through the thread but there are 163 pages... not that I am lazy but it's an awful amount of info.

If one of you golden hearted pilots could point me to a specific post that summarizes the thread that would be amazing.

Thank you soooo much.