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Old Jul 04, 2012, 12:50 PM
speeddemon
United States, TX, Whitesboro
Joined Jun 2011
138 Posts
heres the pic of the left elevator compared to the right one.
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Old Jul 04, 2012, 12:52 PM
speeddemon
United States, TX, Whitesboro
Joined Jun 2011
138 Posts
not sure what i should do?
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Old Jul 04, 2012, 12:55 PM
speeddemon
United States, TX, Whitesboro
Joined Jun 2011
138 Posts
here it is.
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Old Jul 04, 2012, 02:32 PM
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Ελλάς, Αττική, Αθήνα
Joined Jun 2009
167 Posts
this is NOT slightly higher!
this will definitely affect the flight characteristics!
you have to remove the vertical stabilizer and properly adjust your left elevator clevis!!!
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Old Jul 04, 2012, 02:36 PM
Life's short - Enjoy!
DeeCee 57's Avatar
Zurich, Switzerland
Joined Nov 2009
649 Posts
well, that would definitely affect the flight characteristics

Fix it before flight...
Strange anyway, this is the first afflicted Meteor I see. You must of course disconnect the clevises (I have to admit not having the Meteor in front of me as abroad for my work week) and adjust their length!

Also I had to give 140% travel on my Futaba radio to reach the required deflections on the elevator.

Over to you Peter
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Old Jul 04, 2012, 05:33 PM
It's watts for dinner
United States, GA, Marietta
Joined Oct 2011
962 Posts
I think I finally nailed the right power combo for my Meteor - Dynam shroud, CS10, 2500KV Cyclone Power motor, and most importantly I took the time to get it perfectly balanced. Now the plane is whisper quiet at low power and it still goes vertical with my 5-cell 3000 mAH Grayson Gold 30C brick.

I'm content at last.
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Old Jul 04, 2012, 07:28 PM
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Australia, VIC, Melbourne
Joined Nov 2006
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LOL, that is a LOT of elevator discrepancy!
You will have to remove the fin and remove the clevis (whichever is most appropriate to do) so you can rotate and adjust it to get them equal.

But also... when you do that, make sure both control arms are actually at the same angle. You can have a case where the actual arm is not the same on both sides, so that even though the verticals are dead equal, the "L" bend into the elevator is the real error point. EG The two "L" arms are not actually the same angle at the bend.

So remove the clevises - they will just pop open. See if you can see which side is the 'ball' and which is the "socket" - I like to pop off the socket side so the pin stays in the horn and supported through this process. But they are pretty tough things, and if you are careful it is going to be fine.
Then check that if the elevators are both held dead level, the control rods are dead vertical, and the same.
I expect you will find that one is not. It is fairly common (mine were not equal as new either).

If they are not equal, support the "L" part in the elevator adequately so you can bend the vertical to match to the other one. You will need to bend it MORE than the other one (past it), for it to settle back at a lesser angle that it will do. Just trial and error... keep adjusting till they are equal.
THEN set up the clevis/rotate for pushrod lengths. Don't fully clip on the clevis's until you finish that.
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Old Jul 04, 2012, 07:56 PM
Fighting Gravity
bonnie9496's Avatar
Australia, WA, Perth
Joined Jan 2011
551 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by tofast4u View Post
my battery is 250gm, i removed that piece of foam in the front of the tray that held battery in place and put it all the way as far foward as possible and its better, though only one strap is holding it in place.. cg is about 4.5in which recommended is about 4in. so i think ill be in good hands i may need to have a slight increase on elev trim on takeoff to get it off the ground.
One strap will be fine for initial flights & not undetaking any high G manovers. I would just add some velcro to the floor of batter tray area to stop any movement or slide of the battery.

Once you get the elevator all sorted and aligned it should be a low stress maiden.

The Meteor is a very stable airframe inside it's limitations.
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Old Jul 04, 2012, 08:46 PM
no more glow models for me!!!!
iflyrc1012's Avatar
bklyn n.y.
Joined Jan 2008
881 Posts
tofast,
find a way to get the elevators level with each other.....it is important.. otherwise every time you pull up, she's gonna try to turn toward the high elevator.... you will never get it trimmed out right with that high elevator.....it will also try to roll to the high side in level flight, making you add a lot of opposite aileron trim to get it to fly straight.making the airframe straight and true is critical. also having that elevator under constant pressure will strain the servo and the stock servos leave a lot to be desired....
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Old Jul 05, 2012, 12:55 AM
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Webmaister's Avatar
United States, GA, Atlanta
Joined Nov 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iflyrc1012 View Post
tofast,
find a way to get the elevators level with each other.....it is important.. otherwise every time you pull up, she's gonna try to turn toward the high elevator.... you will never get it trimmed out right with that high elevator.....it will also try to roll to the high side in level flight, making you add a lot of opposite aileron trim to get it to fly straight.making the airframe straight and true is critical. also having that elevator under constant pressure will strain the servo and the stock servos leave a lot to be desired....
While you have the fin off I'd swap out the stock elevator servo with a steel gear servo. I've had one fail before running on 5S
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Old Jul 05, 2012, 07:17 AM
Life's short - Enjoy!
DeeCee 57's Avatar
Zurich, Switzerland
Joined Nov 2009
649 Posts
Quote:
swap out the stock elevator servo with a steel gear servo
+1 on that!
It is good advice for any machine modded for speed
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Old Jul 05, 2012, 08:36 AM
Registered User
Australia, VIC, Melbourne
Joined Nov 2006
11,544 Posts
Forgot to post my repaint pics....
IAF (Israeli Air Force). A bit overly bright colours, versus the real aircraft more washed out. WBPU, even though satin, shined it all up a bit more. I just call it "A brand new IAF F-9 Meteor" (or would rather it be an F-5 really).
I haven't had time to make up and print out the finer detail decals. And I need to buy some tranparent backed numbers for the IDs etc.
And I didn't want to take off the canopy, again, to get in and paint the cockpit better.... damn. The new Meteor will get done properly....

First I will fly it as it is, with its CS10 EDF with L2855-2300KV motor on 5S.
But then next will be a 6S setup for it.

I have a few choices that I have here:
Most likely I will use the ExtremeRC 70mm alloy, with CS10 rotor and HET 2W30 motor. That will do something like 2.0Kg on the bench, but near 60A area - thus a new ESC needed really.
The second choice is the Lander 2550KV 6S, which also does 2.0Kg on the bench, but with a 5 blade rotor it only uses 52A for that. Except it won't sound as good as the CS10 rotor.
Third option is use the Lander housing and motor but run it on 5S with a CS10 rotor. That will probably bench 2.0Kg also, but head well into the 60A's area. (probably towards 70A, possibly a bit more!)

The ERC alloy unit is quite a bit lighter, so it will probably go into this IAF Meteor. And a Lander and its stock rotor into the second/new Meteor, which is unbuilt so far. Using the stock one is quite a bit less Amps for the same power, and sounds reasonably good still - much better than plastic low blade count units.
The Lander is also a bigger diameter than more standard units, so you have to mod the aircraft for it and then that is that.... a fair effort to mod it back to take a smaller unit then.

The two plastic CS10's are for other aircraft, one for 4S (1.45Kg bench) and the other for 6S (1.8Kg bench).
I had to make some flanges for the Lander housing, and still need to do some (nicer ones!) for the ERC pretty alloy one.
...
..
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Last edited by PeterVRC; Jul 05, 2012 at 10:25 AM.
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Old Jul 05, 2012, 10:09 AM
speeddemon
United States, TX, Whitesboro
Joined Jun 2011
138 Posts
fixed that elevator and put some tape over the hinges. Fixing to fly this morning hopefully everything goes well. Any suggestions on if i should handlaunch or ground takeoff? i have over a 1000ft runway well parkinglot with a fence at the end of it lol wandering if it would takeooff way before then .
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Old Jul 05, 2012, 10:20 AM
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Ground take-off is a much more stable/safe thing to do.
It should take off from hard surface in about 30m... possibly less if you 'force' it to. But just let it run out to good speed and a calm climb, so you get to see any trim issues from the more docile flight. eg If you do dramtaic things then that will mask real trim issues and delay you finding out about them.

I have never hand-launched the Meteor, or much that is quite that 'big'. Not that it is that big.
But even any aircraft, from 800mm to 1000mm, can go astray on handlauch... and into the ground, LOL. Due to the 'throw' process suaully, but also if you just go a bit unco at that lauch instant. So hand-launching adds risk.... and every now and then you will stuff it up, hehe.
I certainly would not hand launch for a maiden!! Though, again, this is a quote docile and well flying plane, so as long as your control surfaces are at neutrals, it will pretty certainly fly off nicely.
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Old Jul 05, 2012, 10:20 AM
speeddemon
United States, TX, Whitesboro
Joined Jun 2011
138 Posts
also my thrust cone looks a tad crooked? could that effect take off? haha like a permenant thrust vector lol
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