|Apr 10, 2011, 09:30 AM|
I did place a two 2" strips underneath the wing near the spar location. Mainly to have a good surface for the vinyl to stick too. This also has a side benefit of strengthening the wing!
Yes, I've added some tape to the tail to help stiffen the foam in places and to help with the red vinyl to stick as it doesn't stick to the foam very well.
NOTE: I've just had a test version of my graphics printed on clear laminate and it looks really good. I'm waiting for the ASK-21 glider recipient to report back results. This will eliminate the need for using the 3M tape underneath with colored vinyl over. It will reduce the weight and strengthen at the same time.
Glad to help.
|Aug 24, 2011, 09:24 AM|
I covered the following areas:
- Leading and trailing wing edges
- Rudder (under red graphics and leading edge)
- Leading and trailing edges of the elevator
- Center of under-wing area underneath large red "HB-1078" cut vinyl with two strips.
- Covered the wing area where it mounts to the fuselage, top and bottom.
- Under the the poly area of the wing towards the winglet right where the aileron stops (this location will be evident when you feel it flex).
The 3M packaging tape really stiffened everything up nicely. If I get any damage, remove tape repair, sand, finish (paint if required) and re-tape.
|Aug 24, 2011, 11:55 AM|
Photos of the real size DG-1000 Segelfliegen courtesy of http://www.dg-flugzeugbau.de/
Landing gear for the DG-1000 is very similar to how HondaJet configured his, it does stick down far. There isn't room for a shock, but I'll try to craft something that looks similar to this. One issue might be the location. If it is that far back, it might be nose heavy when the RMS is deployed up taking off. I might make it a tick forward to keep the rudder down. I'll need nose up attitude.
|Aug 24, 2011, 11:58 AM|
Watching this DG-1000 in Austria always makes me feel better...
|Aug 24, 2011, 12:05 PM|
Ok finally got around to setting my DG-1000 up with my HK OrangeRx and HK Orange Remote receivers and Spektrum DX6i.
I have two 1300mH 3S batteries I use for my Radian and planning to use these for the DG-1000. The supplied velcro on the DG-1000 wouldn't work as the battery needs to slide into a tight square on the Radian. So, I came up with a clever little idea. How about making a removable cradle that allows you to adjust CG location by sliding the battery smoothly using a lightly secured zip-tie. Photos also show location of HK Orange remote too.
Unfortunately, due to my added weight of GI Joe pilots, I've had to add a nickel to the tail to get the CG set with RMS retracted, and deployed. This was with the battery moved to the rear which kind of defeats my battery mount, ah well.
I will make a guide to set up the DX6i, it does work. For now the short list off the top of my head includes using the gear switch to activate the RMS and both mixes.
AILR > RUDD
L 50% R 50%
THOTL > ELEV
|Aug 24, 2011, 12:10 PM|
I'm on a roll with photos.
Maiden flight of the DG-1000 went well. Too much up elevator on my DX6i MIX 2 with the GEAR channel (RMS deployed 50% up elevator) put me into pitch axis hE!!. Got it down with stick control and LOAD of down elevator.
Rethink. 12%? ok, naa nose dived into the Vermont grass, no damage - phew. Not enough up elevator when RMS deployed.
Hmmm, wild arse guess, 18%? Got it! what a schweet sailplane. WOW. It comes in for landings sooo smooth.
I didn't have anyone to shoot photos but... I did mount up the 808 keychain camera. Video to follow soon.
|Aug 24, 2011, 12:14 PM|
The video came out really nice even though I stuffed it at the end Here are some stills.
I tried a different camera angle and some of this will work for the final version. Darn crash got in the way of my filming schedule.
These photos were screen shots from the H.264 .mov taken with my new 1280 HD keychain camera. I wanted to show the pilots and later realized that the silly date stamp was there. Came out ok and kind of hidden on the white part of the fuselage.
|Aug 24, 2011, 12:22 PM|
Well it was bound to happen!
Ouch, I really didn't hit that hard and was totally surprised when I walked up to the DG-1000 in the grass to find the nose snapped clean off.
I poured boiling hot water over most of the nose section and it came back to shape really well. Glued together with white Gorilla Glue and layed down some CA with fibreglass cloth over the cracked area. Covered with LWS. Sanding comes next, 3M Super77 adhesive, cloth, Minwax polyacrylic and paint with some studioRS design stickers. I'm planning to do the entire fuselage and figure the weights up front won't be needed anymore!
Light weight spackle (LWS) applied. Seems to go down easier when thinned with some water.
|Aug 24, 2011, 12:35 PM|
Update on the fuselage repair.
I was successful with covering the entire fuselage using some thin old cotton fabric bed sheet, must have been at least 20 years old. Simply amazing how well it laid down with 3M Super77 spray adhesive, a xacto #11, good scissors and some time. I've got two coats of Minwax Polyacrylic clear satin on top too. Really strengthens up everything well, not like a German fiberglass object of art but it will protect and I'm sure it gained a little weight, but doesn't seem that much heavier.
Here are the photos... My USA spec "Daisy" plays homage to the Alpine Edelweiss. Should be covered up with primer and gloss white paint soon.
LWS applied and sanded.
This cloth had made it as far as the garage for use on the MINI. I saved it from a waxing demise!
3M Super 77 applied to both cloth and light spritz on fuseleage. Let dry then lay it down. The cloth is VERY pliable and can stretch. This is one piece over the front half, seamed together up top.
Medium CA to lock down seam.
Zap Medium CA to lock pulled sections down.
Don't eat the daisys! Edelweiss wannabe.
Added some fibre hinge tape BEFORE covering.
|Aug 24, 2011, 12:48 PM|
Here's the white paint, final kewlartdesigns.com graphics and as I was finishing up this morning, ready to shoot photos an order arrives from HK...
So, opened up the box and promptly pulled out and crafted a the 30mm dia foam wheel for the DG-1000 landing gear. Smitten with my steerable (and working suspension!) nose wheel on my HK ASK-21Mi, I wanted to up scale the DG-1000 a bit with some landing gear, inspired by Honda Jet himself!
I tried to make this as real as possible landing gear to scale. Yes, ROG take offs are going to rock on my local field, the guys are going to go nuts.
Knowing me I'll knock this off on my first landing...
Krylon gloss white paint came out nice. I could have sanded till I was blue, sanded and primed, then sanded, sanded and paintied, but didn't want to get too heavy and only applied two coats.
Opps, canopy need help up front!
Ouch, I can see air underneath canopy, this will need help.
|Aug 24, 2011, 12:54 PM|
Scale Suspension Kit for DG-1000.
I decided to design a suspension with shocks. It will have to be fixed down, but wanted it to work and absorb some bumps on landing.
30mm foam wheel, two old slot car bushings, a couple of washers, wire rod, two similar length pen springs and some medium CA.
After I pulled the piece off, I noticed that the Fibercloth/Minwax/Paint combo is still pretty flexible. Might use thinned epoxy or resin over same cloth for my other DG-1000 fuselage repair. Cutting into foam reveals tube for antenna, cut right through.
Wood support installed from factory for RMS unit will work well.
Building an under support for landing gear. Inserted some 1/8x1/8 basswood into white antenna tube, then CA'd two more pieces next to it.
Thin birch ply, 1/8x1/8 basswood, 1/4 ply for base.
New updated canopy vinyl graphics. I used black on the lower edge and only white in the middle. The landing gear hatch doors are thin birch ply covered with white vinyl and glued on with medium CA.
Here is a small video of how the suspension works. I think there is about 10mm of travel. No dampening, just springs.
|Aug 24, 2011, 12:59 PM|
Make sure and double check your wing spar connector. Both of mine (including my recently purchased crashed DG-1000) the front portion and top of the wing spar connector cracked! Seems the little small head screws pulled right through the plastic.
Good fix is to use CA and fiberglass cloth, then add small washers to each and every little screw. The two larger machine bolts to tighten the wings down didn't seem to need the washers. Here is a photo of a repaired unit and the cracked unit.
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