thanks both for the tips what i meant by slow is be able to do a slow take off and i wont be able to stay full throttle for very long maybe about 2 seconds max is what i meant lol sorry about that otherwise ill end up in where floating debris usually lies just under the surface.

The bad bit about my local pond is it only has a small clear oval shaped inlet which is about 5 - 6 meters across and about 20-25 meters long which is clear from weeds and debris hence why i dont want to drive that fast but me being me i love smashing the throttle but with this boat i dont really want to risk hitting stuff by doin that lol.

And with the esc i thought it would have throttle range like a normal vehicle i guess you could say so you can slower around the turns if you want and not have to blast around full throttle everywhere the last boat i had was on and off and it really annoyed me lol.

I just thought thats what you had an esc for so it gives the boat proportianal throttle not basically on and off cause if thats the case ill swap to an esc that offers more throttle range.

I thought the stock esc had a programming option for a linear throttle which should smooth it out giving more throttle control id really hate for it to be on and off or close to that as in my pond as i meantioned i need more control lol. Sorry about al this im still new to the esc thing i have one esc controlled boat which is one of those joysway magic cats lol i know its no where in the same league as the geico but its the only experience i have with esc driven boats as the other boat i had is a venom killer vee.

Which had no esc or watercooling or even a hatch lol which i took back that day after having a little fun as it was the fastest boat id ever owned lol but i got board quick so i threw in a 7 cell in after a few more minutes of increased fun i brought it in it had a fair bit of water in and smoking motors after my hobby store told me that it was fully sealed and the battery would offer no speed increase.

But i found a small gap in the sealant and the pack made it go a fair bit harder i since have never shopped there again and since learned to triple check everything and then brought the magic cat and after the first day i went back and brought a better pack, and put a brass pipe over the fet and re srink wrapped the esc which seemed to help the esc.

And now im defianately looking for a major upgrade and have always wanted to race and i think the geico is perfect for that so hopefully i can get it so that it has good throttle control so i can run it in my some kinda pond lol.

So i have very limited experience when it comes to fast boats lol so thankyou all for having the patience and answering my questions i really appreciate it

Originally Posted by Airplanekid333

How often is it recommended to grease the shaft?

I do it after every run just because other than helping to fight friction it also helps keep water from coming up in to the boat. Also, because "every run" to me means a day at the lake running 3-4 sets of batteries through it. Just a bit of grease on a napkin and slide the wire through it. Doesn't need to be applied heavily. If you use too much it will travel of the wire and splatter all up inside the boat.

Originally Posted by Shannon87

thanks both for the tips what i meant by slow is be able to do a slow take off and i wont be able to stay full throttle for very long maybe about 2 seconds max is what i meant lol sorry about that otherwise ill end up in where floating debris usually lies just under the surface.

The bad bit about my local pond is it only has a small clear oval shaped inlet which is about 5 - 6 meters across and about 20-25 meters which is clear from weeds and debris hence why i dont want to drive that fast but me being me i love smashing the throttle but with this boat i dont really want to risk hitting stuff by doin that lol.

And with the esc i thought it would have throttle range like a normal vehicle i guess you could say so you can slower around the turns if you want and not have to blast around full throttle everywhere the last boat i had was on and off and it really annoyed me lol. It has some throttle range but not like the Turnigy or Seaking brand ESC's do. But boat ESCs are different in the sense that they carry a lot of load and when used at 1/2-4/3 throttle its actually creates more amperage draw because the boat has more friction than when its running at WOT just skimming the water. The highest amperage draw will be as the boat jumps out of water and gets on plane. When its on plane it runs with far less effort and amp draw.

I just thought thats what you had an esc for so it gives the boat proportianal throttle not basically on and off cause if thats the case ill swap to an esc that offers more throttle range. would suggest you try the ESC first and see if its not what you need for your running space. Then get ether the Turnigy 120 or the 180.

I thought the stock esc had a programming option for a linear throttle which should smooth it out giving more throttle control id really hate for it to be on and off or close to that as in my pond as i meantioned i need more control lol.

Though the ESC is programmable, it's not packed with the many noticeable features. It's one of the better RTR ESCs but still very basic.

hi losi thanks for clearing that up it was a huge help and it was easy to understand and yer as long as it has some control i was worried that it only had like 10 percent then like 90 percent or 100 and it makes sence about being a rtr esc and being basic thats why the boat is great value but yer ill run it and go from there.

Like i said i just wanted to know it can be contollable incase i really need to make a slow turn and not burn up the esc but i should be able to get back up to speed soon enough.

But yer as you said run it and go from there i prob will go the 180 as its like 30 bucks more than the 120 and handles 60 more amps plus it has 2 inlets and 2 outlets and looks cool.

As i was going to run it like the motley crew and have the motor outlet run back through the esc then out through the rear and run esc coolers from kintec racing between the esc and motor inlet and outlet for added cooling.

Once again thanks for helping me understand in a way it was easy for me to understand with this hobby you defianately learn more each day but its an awesome hobby and its way cool im glad i got into it even though it can be complicated lol buti have always been into power boats as long as i can remember.

what kind of grease and where do i get it.

Before you buy the 180a esc, make sure it'll fit and check the weight. It's not a small or light ESC at all.

Aquacraft makes Grim Racer speed grease, and Pro Boat makes Marine Grease both available at RC hobby shops or on line at Tower Hobbies or Horizon. I like AMSOIL synthetic water resistant lithium complex grease #GWRCR, available from AMSOIL online. Don't use a outboard motor lower end grease, wont take the rpms.

Stringfly <>+++++

wparsons and stringfly thank you both for the tips i will definatley check but i may end up just stickin with the 120 amp as it should be plenty and fit easier.

And since im doin the outboard the exit for the water will come out of the outboard anyways and plus the 120 is much lighter and it will only be set up for 4s2p as it will be a spec boat.

And when i go up 2 a 6s set up it will be a twin build with a bare hull from fighter cat racing using the 37 inch hull twin cyclon watercooled outrunners and twin 180 amp escs but thats at least a year or two down the track.

I have thought about getting them in advance as their rare and trying one in the geico at some stage.

The 180 fits just fine. I ran it mine for a while before I ripped all the wood out. I say for the money, go with the 180. You will not need another upgrade unless it smokes, which is unlikely unless you thow in a super high kv motor and a large prop.

I use the Pro Boat grease with the grease gun attachment. Makes greasing so much easier!

cool sounds like a plan and the most i will go is a 2200 kv motor or very close and an x642 prop as it seems like what everybody is using with good results.

And yer it would save money in the long run as it wouldnt need another esc and would give me peace of mind plus lookin cool.

And yer that grease gun looks like a good thing to pick up.

Just thought I would share this video to get you more excited about this boat. This is from yesterday. I put my Castle 1800kv outruner back in(very small motor), 2 5000mah 20c 2S packs, and an Octura X445 prop. Very much lighter than my high rpm setup. Still, no bounce at all at WOT. Don't know why but she always bounces 3 times as it gets out of the corners but that doesn't bother me.Temps are very low so I think I will run an even bigger X447 prop next time.

Pro Boat Miss Geico 1800KV outrunner 4S X445 prop (2 min 22 sec)

So i was wondering if i should get a sharpened and balanced X642 for 40 bucks from http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...rod=octsb-x642
or one from this website for 13 bucks but it doesn't say its sharpened and balanced?
http://www.kintecracing.com/Props.html
or any other websites that have the X642 that i should buy from?

hi losi cheers man first of all u made your boat go awesome it really goes hard as if reading all the threads wasnt making me want the boat more you had to throw in a wicked vid to make me more exited and want it even more lol im so exited about getting it its annoying that i cant till i get more work coming in.

Plus i gotta pay over a hundred bucks to get it from ya country to get it here to aus but its defiantely worth it as the local RTR F/E offerings are nothin worth mentioning.

There is a thunder tiger mono and tunnel that i have seen in a LHS but they are around 650 - 700 bucks which i think is too much as twice the retail price of the geico.

Because the problem here in aus the F/E boating community is no where as popular as it is in the states and it shows in what the hobby stores are selling which are mostly toys or nitro boats which is fine for the people who want them.

But for new boaters looking into the sport are left to buy nitros or get a F/E built or import thats the best option so far.

Thats why im doin the gieco to show the local people that you can have a competative boat to get you started and still have plenty of change from 500 bucks it does help pointing people to forums like this.

But not having the numbers the local clubs not having the numbers or interest they have their hands tied when it comes to F/E they only have the standard rules of EA,EB,EC and offshore classes only cater for huge boats with fuel engines.

So even though ill be racing against 4s boats with big dollar escs and motors or limited tunnels though i think there much harder to drive and setup for a newb which are built from bare hulls anyways because if thats all they see is big dollar boats and fuel boats then thats what they think they have to get i know coz i thought exactly the same thing and wanting to fit in but now thanks to the great F/E communtiy on these forums i now know there are much cheaper and more newb friendly options so hopefully i can spread the RTR race F/E movment over here lol.

I hopefully will be able to encourage others that you can have a great comp boat for well under 1000 bucks which includes a few packs and charger and a prop or 2.

All i can say is go geico !!!!! lol

Nice run Losi...........you realize you are running counter-clockwise............

Thanks Scorp! I do realize that but when it's only me out there I like to run counter clockwise because that way I'm running away from the dock as I accelerate out from around the buoy just off shore. I've had a few scares coming around the bouye that's about 20' away from the end of the dock at full speed coming around the other way. From where I was standing you lose sight of the boat for a second as the boat comes at you full speed and we all know it fakes less than that to end badly.