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Old Sep 03, 2010, 12:21 PM
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Flying the MSR in very dark room using the rotor blade disc as reference

yep. very possible but difficult at the same time

Eflite Blade MSR : POV LEDs at the tip of the blades - Test flight 1 (0 min 57 sec)



UPDATE: Flight take two ..


Eflite Blade MSR : POV LEDs at the tip of the blades - Test flight 2 (6 min 28 sec)



setup ;

* Heli is fitted with a very bright phone cam flash LED at one of the blade tips. I am supposed to add another led for counter balance on the other rotor as hydro suggested but i only have one LED.

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Old Sep 03, 2010, 12:32 PM
"you'll play to live "
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Originally Posted by EQMOD View Post
yep. very possible but difficult at the same time

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wYeVEGdvixI


setup ;

* Heli is fitted with a very bright phone cam flash LED at one of the blade tips. I am supposed to add another led for counter balance on the other rotor as hydro suggested but i only have one LED.

Very nice! i wonder what value is for the R?
AC
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Old Sep 03, 2010, 12:33 PM
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Cool vid!
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Old Sep 03, 2010, 12:36 PM
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Sweet!... Gotta check out the video later! (server is blocked here at work)...
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Old Sep 03, 2010, 02:22 PM
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I like your needle idea much better than the brush ring I was trying to use in my experiment.

The part that sucks about adding another LED as I mentioned, is that you'll need separate ballast resistors on the rotor to make it work. LED's wired in parallel have a tendency for only one LED to light, as there are slight voltage drop inconsistencies from unit to unit, so one LED usually takes all the current. If They're wired in series, you won't have enough battery voltage to get them to light up fully, especially when you stab the throttle.

The tiny surface-mount LED's have a tremendous amount of brightness, because there isn't a big, heavy plastic diffuser to spread out the "twinkle" of the glowing chip. They are VERY visible from a distance, they have 180+ degrees of viewing angle at full brightness, and current draw is very low.
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Old Sep 03, 2010, 02:46 PM
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I have been thinking of adding lights to the blades...But i was thinking of useing the main shaft as one "wire" (since it is conductive) and useing another cf rod inside the main shaft as another "wire"..lol...
Your way looks interesting.

I am also doing some lighting on my 120 sr and i have one led powerd straight from the main motor terminals....The led lights up very well and it does not seem to cut down my run time.

I also have a red flashing led on the tail and a white one in the nose but those led's are wired directly to a plug i tapped off the battery leads...

The led's that are being powered from the plug on the battery leads are not as brite as the led that is soldeded directly to the main motor terminals.
Of course the led that is powered from the main motor terminals only lights when throttle input is given.

I wired it to the main motor terminals because it was easy and because i have had a cheap toy rc from toys r us and it had its lights powered from the main motor terminals....and when the truck would coast the lights would still light....even thought there was no input from the tx because the motor was acting like a generator...at least thats what i have been thinking.

So....hydro or EQ...do you think powering my led's from the main motor terminals will or could cause any harm?

They light up better ...and it could be my imagination but the lights running directly from the battery seem to drain the battery just a bit,nothing to really write home about...but when i fly with just the led powerd from the main motor it seems like the power the led's are drawing from the main motor terminals is not effecting the flight time...

I do have resistors on each led...they are small and have 3 colored bands on them...cranberry,green and red.
I'm not sure what they are used for but they were attached to the leds when i removed them from a toy car,so i have kept them as they were when i removed them...figured they must be there for a reason.....i'm still trying to figure out what they do and how they can be used...here is a link that i found helpfull when it comes to the basics of resistors...http://www.teamsaber.com/john/ee/resistor.html#colors

I'm still reading through is all...it's going to take some time for me to have a really good understanding.....i'm about as green as they come with electrical components...what they do...how they work..

So if you guys could offer up some help about powering the lights from the main motor terminals...... i would apreciate it,
Thanks for your help guys.

Ridgewalker
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Last edited by ridgewalker; Sep 03, 2010 at 03:31 PM.
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Old Sep 03, 2010, 03:32 PM
Did you check the FAQ already?
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Originally Posted by ridgewalker View Post
I do have resistors on each led...they are small and have 3 colored bands on them...cranberry,green and red.
I'm not sure what they are used for but they were attached to the leds when i removed them from a toy car,so i have kept them as they were when i removed them...figured they must be there for a reason.....i'm still trying to figure out what they do and how they can be used...here is a link that i found helpfull when it comes to the basics of led's...http://www.teamsaber.com/john/ee/resistor.html#colors
The resistors act to limit the current. Without them, your led might suddenly get very bright, before dying permanently.
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Old Sep 03, 2010, 04:23 PM
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Thanks guys.

@AC - my setup's resistor value is 100ohms but this varies depending on the LED you put in.

@hydro- it is possible to wired them in parallel as long as you get the identical ones. most led flashlights are wired this way.

@ridgerwalker. it is ok to wire them directly to the motor assuming there is already a diode reverse current protection circuit on the motor esc (which most escs already have). Usually the current driving the motors are pulsating and pulsewidth varies for every change in motor speed thus you consume less current if you put leds there (motor terminals) instead of connecting directly to the battery.

Here is take two of dark room flight;

Eflite Blade MSR : POV LEDs at the tip of the blades - Test flight 2 (6 min 28 sec)
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Old Sep 03, 2010, 06:09 PM
The lunatic is on the grass
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Thank You,EQ for the help.
I will be moving the plug from the battery leads to the motor now.

You could also use a flashing led,from what i have read the flashing led can be wire directly to the power source....i just got some eflight flashing red led's and they can be wired directly to the power source,and it might look good...a flashing rotor disk.

Keep up the cool mod work EQ....i am waiting to see if you get a 120 sr........and start doing some serious mod work to it.

Ridgewalker
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Old Sep 03, 2010, 06:32 PM
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A big thanks ,EQ.I'm going to put concave-top led's on both blades , this way there'll be some lights reflecting on the wall , like gyrophare.Do you think conductive liquid (circuit pen)can replace wires ?
AC
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Old Sep 04, 2010, 11:07 PM
Flying Monkey
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Great work!

Here is another video of my "HALO" mSR. I used 2 ring and brushes because I could never get a good solid current running off the bearings.
mSR Blade halo (2 min 31 sec)
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Old Sep 05, 2010, 01:37 AM
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niceeee! i love it.

it has to be a 'metal' bearings not the 'ceramic' or other special alloy bearings.
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Old Sep 05, 2010, 07:52 AM
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niceeee! i love it.

it has to be a 'metal' bearings not the 'ceramic' or other special alloy bearings.
I only have stock, are they metal,or did you replace the stock bearings in yours?
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Old Sep 05, 2010, 08:26 AM
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I only have stock, are they metal,or did you replace the stock bearings in yours?
i had it replaced with metal bearings from my box-o-spares. I really dont know from which heli it was from.
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Old Sep 06, 2010, 12:46 PM
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Where could I pick up some metal bearings? I would like to run a blinking colored LED in the halo using the ring and brushes as the POS,and the CF shaft as the common. But my next goal is to relocate the blue LVC LED from the 5-in-1 as the halo light so you can see the warning flash without question.
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