Tried mine at 55mm just a bit ago. It didnt do anything strange. The elevator gets a tiny bit more sensitive in the 50-55 mm range, so dial in a little expo if it bothers you.

I like mine at 50mm, as it gives a flat glide and eliminates elevator up trim.. The issue with climbing under power is solved with adding down thrust, and the how much downthrust to add will depend on where your CG is.

So, set the CG for a flat glide with neutral trims on surfaces, and then work on the downthrust to eliminate or reduce the "power on" climb.

rhawk1967, pullup: Thank you.
I am about to go carve my canopy foam to mount the batt. just back of the C/G and may still need to move back the 70 AMP ESC. Result will be 50mm C/G.

Thanks again for the tips guys!
Kerry

I split my fuse last night, not too hard, just tedious.

Today I am going to run my wiring for the new servo on the tail.
I would normally just hot glue it back there, but I would like the ability to swap the servo.

Anyone have any ideas on how mount it so that I can remove/replace if need be?

Thanks
Ant

What about a strong magnet? One should be enough if you fit the servo 100% correctly(in the foam) so that you won't have different rudder movements each time, try another one at the bottom just to go sure(With bottom I mean the smaller site that is facing downwards if the servo stands on a table for example).

Originally Posted by jeanorwin

What about a strong magnet? One should be enough if you fit the servo 100% correctly(in the foam) so that you won't have different rudder movements each time, try another one at the bottom just to go sure(With bottom I mean the smaller site that is facing downwards if the servo stands on a table for example).

Actually, I did some searching and I think I am going to wrap the servo in tape and then hot glue it into the foam. That seems to be the best of both worlds. If I need to swap the servo just cut the tape and the servo should pull out pretty easy. Then you can work on the hot glue without having to pry it out.

Originally Posted by Ant

Actually, I did some searching and I think I am going to wrap the servo in tape and then hot glue it into the foam. That seems to be the best of both worlds. If I need to swap the servo just cut the tape and the servo should pull out pretty easy. Then you can work on the hot glue without having to pry it out.

Thats a proven method, I have used clear silicon caulking with success as well.

This is what I have done to provide some sorely needed downthrust.
The right side black line is the original position of the plastic motor mount. The left side black line is where I have carved out the foam so that now the mount will face downwards more.

Rather than work with a lot of difficulty I sliced off the left side of the nose to make it easy to remove the motor. Why not? It is a quick, easy & strong repair with hot glue.

You would have thought the makers FPS would known to provide downthrust!!
It's time these makers started getting it right from the outset. Especially basics like down thrust

Anyhow this is just one way of attacking the problem - might help someone.

This plane just wants to loop on 1/4 throttle

Kev

What;s with photo titles guys?

I put detailed descriptions in but they get deleted.

Is there a character limit that I'm unaware of?

Kev

Originally Posted by Berkie

What;s with photo titles guys?

I put detailed descriptions in but they get deleted.

Is there a character limit that I'm unaware of?

Kev

Make sure you click the "Save Changes" button after putting description and before closing window.

Originally Posted by sawman

Make sure you click the "Save Changes" button after putting description and before closing window.

Yep, did that, but the first 2 had long details and these were deleted

Kev

OK C of G adjusted from 30mm :-( to 50mm :-). Relocated batt. back as far as pos. canted to one side to avoid the ele. servo. Also added carbon strips to the trailing edge of the ailerons, stiffened them up nice.







Went to the club today, preset lower ele. rates per "rhawk" and gave it a toss. Almost lost it in the couple seconds it took to figure out what was wrong. Ailerons where super sensitive, flipped to low rates and got it back on the ground. Cut low rates down and added a load of expo. Now she flies like a dream, flat glides, she should be able to thermal with some decent weather.

In case anyone is interested, I also added some right thrust. You can see the slight cross angle of the red plastic motor mount.

Kev

Hey, Kerry. How come when I enlarge one of your pics, I see MY pics also, lined up at the bottom

With the CG at 50mm, isn't that going to make it very close to the stall point?

Kev

Originally Posted by Berkie

This is what I have done to provide some sorely needed downthrust.

Rather than work with a lot of difficulty I sliced off the left side of the nose to make it easy to remove the motor. Why not? It is a quick, easy & strong repair with hot glue.

Kev

Hi Kev, you might want to "test" regular CA and kicker. Gives a very strong bond and no melting foam. Best method for CA is Kicker one side CA the other and don't miss when you stick them together. CA together and kicker on the seam works also.

Some thing to try What ever works fer u.

Kerry

Originally Posted by Berkie

Hey, Kerry. How come when I enlarge one of your pics, I see MY pics also, lined up at the bottom

With the CG at 50mm, isn't that going to make it very close to the stall point?

Kev

Re: Pic's>> Keep scrolling and I think you see all pic's in the thread.

I put 4 packs through the fox today at 50mm C/G with no problems' although I did not test stalls. I would GUESS that it might want to drop a wing at the stall based on the aileron sensitivity.
"rhawk has used 55mm"
Kerry