Hey Robbie: Open up that flycam, the batt. has a plug. You can use reg. charger, meter etc. I have the wire outside the case with an elastic band to keep them together. :-)

I have a keychain cam also that I opened. I soldered tiny hair sized wires on the batt. and stuck the other end in the screw holes. I can put a meter to the screws and check the pack or aligator clips to charge.

They are all 1 cell lipo's :-)

Mine is the Turnigy CAm, the white one form our pals at HK for ~ $18

or whatever price it's going for now !

I had a Key Fob cam and it worked great for a couple months then quite for no reason.
I hadnt used it it had just been sitting there and Pffffft ! ???

Yeah yeah I took it apart

The T CAM seems to be working fine just now !!!

AND

The ESC works too !
I cut off the Heat shrink and gave it a blower treatment.
Seems OK !

Bob, 4 cells? I thought it was only good for 3 cells. I bet the climb was GOOD.

I assume you know about the reset on the key cam. :-)

yep !

the printing on MY ESC "says" 2-4 cells 30Amps.

4 cells definitely put some pep in the climb out :-)

Nothing F3 like but Nice enough to stop any complaints.

They were some 2s1p 2000ma Nano Tech Paks
I just made up a Y connector to adapt them into a 4s1p.

More volts = less amps I think. Maybe I could use this esc on 4 cells, I pull 40 amps peak on 3 cells. I like to have an esc rated 10 amps higher than I peak.

No matter, the motor is only rated for 3 cells. :-( HK, NOW says my motor only makes 300 watts (was 400>?). I have an e-logger reading at 421 watts.??

I just tested "high vis. fluorescent orange" paint on some scrap foam and it works. I'm thinking complete underside of the main wing and horz. stab. I should have done the rudder alone while it was off, now it's a lot of tapeing. The red air brakes are now white on top.

Originally Posted by Helitime

Hey Robbie: Open up that flycam, the batt. has a plug. You can use reg. charger, meter etc. I have the wire outside the case with an elastic band to keep them together. :-)

I have a keychain cam also that I opened. I soldered tiny hair sized wires on the batt. and stuck the other end in the screw holes. I can put a meter to the screws and check the pack or aligator clips to charge.

They are all 1 cell lipo's :-)

I wound up giving the FlyCamOne2 to a co-worker explaining that he'd need to do what you just said to get it back to life. He did and it's working great for him, so you're 100% correct! I went with the keychain cam that I think is like the one Bird has. It's given me no trouble at all to date. It's been far more reliable than the FlyCamOne2 ever was but it doesn't do sound with video. I've included a picture of it. It only weighs 18g!

Robbie

Originally Posted by birdofplay

AND

The ESC works too !
I cut off the Heat shrink and gave it a blower treatment.
Seems OK !

Good news bird! Sounds like it was just the moisture. Cool that it will work with 4 cells. The current should go down somewhat depending on how efficient the motor is at the higher voltage with a net increase in power like Kerry has suggested. I think that most of the guys flying the similar sized Diamond 2500 are using 4 cells and that motorglider really performs well from the videos I've seen. What drew me to this Fox motorglider though were the cockpit possibilities for scale looks. I never cared for a foam cockpit like the Diamond or the Radian. You could say I'm a scale type of guy, but I'm also a lazy scale guy who looks for most of the work to be done already. LOL

Robbie

Hey Robbie, thats the "gum" cam (pic), I have one also aswell as the lighter cam and several key fob. cams. The key cams (look like a remote for your car locks etc.) work best from my experience (sound also). I got one delivered to work for $10 with a memory card, off ebay. The other was $14, ebay can be cheap if your carefull. Search "spy cam" on ebay, you can get many dif. ones. Watch the delivery charges! I paid under $20 for another type but saw them listed near $100

Hello,

First, thank you for all the information.
I have a question: what kind of servo you use for change?

the HTX 900:http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbyking/s...?idProduct=662

or the HTX 500:http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbyking/s...?idProduct=663

Originally Posted by Papaye

Hello,

First, thank you for all the information.
I have a question: what kind of servo you use for change?

the HTX 900:http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbyking/s...?idProduct=662

or the HTX 500:http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbyking/s...?idProduct=663

I'd go with the HTX 900. More torque is better and the slightly slower speed of 20 mSEC won't be noticeable with this motorglider.

Robbie

Papaye: Yup, like Robbie says HXT900's thats what I put in mine. :-)
Hey Papaye, first post, welcome aboard. I am also fairly new, to posting at least. Although I have been reading the threads for a few years. VERY HELPFULL

Cheers: Kerry

I have some of the "OTHER" hinges that I found in a drawer.
They WORK the same as the installed versions but they are MUCH LESS SLOPPY !
I think they came from Hobby Lobby.
They have a nicer "Molding" and stiffer Plastic type.

Anyway I am going to attempt to REPLACE the Rudder hinge.
If that works as well as I am hoping
THEN I will "DO" the ailerons too, and avoid all the routing and surgery.
News as it breaks !

Cool Bird! Please let us know. I never even considered replacing the hinges.. It still may be an issue with the rudder though as at least with mine, the wire was binding making the corner at the tail up to the hinge.

Robbie

If it were warmer around here I could go flying, although I don't have a spinner for it yet. :-)

A couple pics less paint, one to show tail deflection with the elevator dialed back. It takes less than 3 min's to take apart and pack in it's box.(good thinkin Bob)

HK just added 3 new gliders :-)