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Old Aug 20, 2010, 12:58 PM
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Bay Area, CA
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Help!
Question to anyone who has built the Dumas C-C Continental kit

My build is going well so far, but I've run into a problem where the instructions are not very clear.

One of the steps after completing the mahogany hull planking says to cement a strip of 1/8 x 1/4 balsa on the edge of the deck 1/4 inch in from the outside of the mahogany planking. It's supposed to run from frame 4 all the way back towards the transom. The problem is that there is a frame (4b) cemented between frame 4 and the transom that lies in the path of the strips to be cemented. I assume you could just cut the strips and cement around the frame, but since the instructions arent clear about this, it has me questioning whether I have the right idea of what has to be done.

I did find one build on these boards (which has been a HUGE help) but it didn't address this specific part.

Anyone who's built this know what I'm talking about?
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Old Aug 20, 2010, 01:56 PM
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The Villages, Fl.
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Hooch, it should say from 4b to the transom. 1/16" x 1/2" is glued between 1b, 2a, 3a and 4b, see step 84 on page 22 of instructions. Also look at dwg. 33 on page 23.

It is very confusing. Ask any questions you may have and I will try to answer them.

Post pictures of your build. It makes into a fine looking model.

Ed
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Old Aug 20, 2010, 02:32 PM
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Thanks for the response Ed. Following your build has been a huge help. I think I refer to it daily.

I'll get some pics up tonight. Been meaning to do that.
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Old Aug 21, 2010, 04:51 PM
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keep up the good work, it is a great model.

Ed
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Old Aug 25, 2010, 10:09 AM
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Completed some of the forward deck planking.
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Old Aug 31, 2010, 03:33 PM
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So I'm trying to figure out how much hull sanding I need to do exactly. Do all of the mahogany planks need to be perfectly faired to each other? It seems like no matter how much sanding I do, there are some slight differences in height going from plank to plank. Nothing major, but I'm starting to think I could end up sanding this thing forever and still not be satisfied.
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Old Aug 31, 2010, 05:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoochiemama View Post
...I'm starting to think I could end up sanding this thing forever...
it does take a bit... but if the planks are well bonded (not moving individually) you will eventually get everything smooth... the little differences you see and feel now, plank to plank, will show up significantly when you finish it if you don't level things.

Are you using a sanding block?
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Old Aug 31, 2010, 05:55 PM
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I'm alternating between a block and one of those flexible sanding pads. I use the block on all the flat parts but since its so bulky to use for the curved parts of the hull that the block cant really reach, I use the pad for that.

Also there are a couple of spots where the plank does move individually, although it's very slight movement. Should I add a little CA glue in the crack to keep it from moving? I've really been trying to avoid having the wood soak up CA glue in case it affects how the wood accepts stain.
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Old Aug 31, 2010, 07:10 PM
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You're right to be concerned about the wood taking stain if it has soaked up CA. Careful if you go that route.

if you use a light touch, you may be able to sand that area smooth without having to add extra glue to the joint... Finesse it a bit and see. It is no fun trying to fair planks that are moving even slightly. It'll work out though.

sounds like you are using the right blocks.

Based on the pictures, it looks like you are doing a nice job! Hope to see it on the lake in SF one day!
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Old Aug 31, 2010, 07:17 PM
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I had the same problem of some planks that were not completely glued down and moved just a little. I used thin ca between the planks to secure them then continued to sand. It takes time but will eventuality level out. On the hull where the shape in concaved I warped sandpaper around a 1" dowel and sanded at an angle.

Ed
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Old Aug 31, 2010, 07:30 PM
Spreckels Lake, GGP, SF, CA
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If you're using something like W.D. Lockwood's Stains, (which are BTW, I suspect, the stains that Dumas supplies with the kits) you can soak the planks in the stain before you CA them, as the stain will penetrate the wood, you can sand a bit without sanding through the stained area.

Another option would be to put some tissue paper or very fine glass sheet over the area in question on the interior of the hull and saturate with thinned CA... basically using the CA to create a composite instead of epoxy or poly resins.

RusselTate's Build of the 1947 Dumas 19' Chris Craft Utility
Detailed instructions for Lockwood dyes
Catalog of Lockwood Colors

Just to be through, Using two part peroxide wood bleach (oxalic acid won't bleach mahogany or luan)
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Old Sep 06, 2010, 04:08 PM
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Thanks for all the help. It turns out the few areas where I did have to use CA glue ended up taking the stain anyway. I used 2 coats of stain because the first one did not look like it took evenly.

Here are a few more pictures. I just started fiberglassing which is another concept completely new to me.
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Old Sep 06, 2010, 05:55 PM
Spreckels Lake, GGP, SF, CA
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Lookin' Really Great there Hoochiemama!!! Number One!!
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Old Sep 08, 2010, 11:25 AM
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Ok, fiberglassing is definitely my favorite part of the build process so far. There's something very peaceful about it. Or maybe it has something to do with the fact that fiberglassing doesn't destroy my fingers like planking and sanding does.

I have one question though. I'm still on the first layer of epoxy resin and I notice that in some places, there are some very small areas (mostly in the tiny cracks in between the planks) where the cloth lifted a bit and didn't adhere to the wood. Will these spots fill in with subsequent layers or do I need to carefully sand/trim away the cloth in these spots?
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