Originally Posted by sebbe

OK, thanks, Im not worried about throwing week, I can throw hard, just if I get a grip, I have planes I think that are more difficult to throw, so Ive learned

BUT really my concern is, if you have to much power it will torque to left..

Does this plane has bad torque behaviors ?
Some planes dont..

My first Komet had a Thunder Tigre 15 IC engine. Almost no power but it hand launched better than later versions with powerful electric motors.
So maybe torque is a slight problem?
It's a very short aeroplane and with no prop wash over the elevons you have no control till you have speed.
I use a dolly for mine with a servo release so I can do a circuit before having to drop it. I would never find it if I dropped it just after take off.
Must find a photo.
Jim

Originally Posted by Fritsvanbreemen

Hi Sebbe,

I handlaunced the plane my self on all flighs that I flew it.
Even at 1 kg it still flies like a glider without motor so with a light breeze you
can just trow it ( motor off) and it will glide like a glider.
I want to put a rudder in mine so I can fly knive edge. but I am to bussy at the moment.
Make sure that the elevons are very good hinged so that they want come of at very high
speed.
Also don't set much aileron travel. too much travel will make the plane very dificult to control.
I recommend if you fly with a 2W20 fly it first on 3 cells. to get familiarized wiht the plane
than switch over to more power.

Frits van Breemen-Schneider
HighendRC

OK, thanks, I hope we are talking about the same plane, the Hetrc me-163 !!

There are other me-163, but it can differ..



Yes I think I will start with 3s lipos first, no problems..

I have to ask you 2 things:

1) is the 5-6mm up elevons right for neutral trim ?
2) What is to much travel for ailerons, please say in mm .


Thanks ,, Sebbe..

Originally Posted by Fox-composites

This is my friends Fox_Composites Komet being hand launched.
There is a whole bunch of people got this model and they do hand launch but a Bungee launch is a more reliable way to get it airborne.
Ok on a windy day but calm days require the bungee.
Such a large round body to get a decent grip.
The main problem is that there is no prop wash over the elevons so no control till flying speed is obtained.
The Eagle tree logger reckons it needs 16mph to stay airborne so that's a 16mph throw on a calm day, quite hard to do.
Usually in England the wind is at least that so no problems.
Jim

on the bungee launches, are you launching deadstick then powering up?


thanks , chuck

HI Sebbe,

1 yes for neutral this is ok 5mm is ok to start with. just handlaunch the plane
The weigth with 3cells should be under 850 grams. Just throw it and it will fly like a glider

2 start with the ailerons nomore than 4 mm up and down from the neutral point.
otherwise when you fly fast the plane roles so fast that you don't know wht the top or bottom is.

in the manual I wrote that you should ( must use a jig 4simple boxes the same hight)
to ensure that both wings are glued level on the plane. This very important. The first prototype I build together I just glued them on the fuselage by hand thinking that it would be ok. as it looked straight on the fuselage. So I found out that you have about 1.5 dregrees play on the trailing edge at the root rib so one aileron was 6 mm up and the other 4 mm. this was alittle bit anouying to me. but the plane flew very.
ist flight ended in a crash because tomuch travel on the ailerons.
with the cg at 90 -92 mm it is very dificult to stall the plane. but still is able to fly very slow. "almost like a parkflyer"specialy on 3 cells.

Frits van Breemen
HighendRC

Originally Posted by Fritsvanbreemen

HI Sebbe,

1 yes for neutral this is ok 5mm is ok to start with. just handlaunch the plane
The weigth with 3cells should be under 850 grams. Just throw it and it will fly like a glider

2 start with the ailerons nomore than 4 mm up and down from the neutral point.
otherwise when you fly fast the plane roles so fast that you don't know wht the top or bottom is.

in the manual I wrote that you should ( must use a jig 4simple boxes the same hight)
to ensure that both wings are glued level on the plane. This very important. The first prototype I build together I just glued them on the fuselage by hand thinking that it would be ok. as it looked straight on the fuselage. So I found out that you have about 1.5 dregrees play on the trailing edge at the root rib so one aileron was 6 mm up and the other 4 mm. this was alittle bit anouying to me. but the plane flew very.
ist flight ended in a crash because tomuch travel on the ailerons.
with the cg at 90 -92 mm it is very dificult to stall the plane. but still is able to fly very slow. "almost like a parkflyer"specialy on 3 cells.

Frits van Breemen
HighendRC

OK. thanks, so 5mm up as neutral is OK, no more then 4mm up & down, 90-92mm CG.. Ik I got it..

Im really dont follow with the part of wings being in level, I know its important the wing are glued the same way, but wich angle is critical ? I dont understand..

Wich one is the important angle ?

is it Angle A = Angle B

OR

Angle C has to be the same on both sides

All important!! But C is definitely VERY important on a model like this.

OK, BUt if the wing has a wingjoiner in the midde of carbon and one stick of wood in the front, so how can you adjust angle C ? I thought this wooden stick was to get the wing in right position ?

then you have to take away the stick in the wings to adjust the angle..


Please explain ...

You already answered your own question in the second sentence You will need to dry fit everything and tape it in place then measure the incidence of each wing to a flat surface, or meter if you have one, and then work out a way to adjust it if it is out.

Originally Posted by chas650r

on the bungee launches, are you launching deadstick then powering up?


thanks , chuck

The bungee system they use is like a V1 launch ramp. The model is held on a sled so I guess they do power up just after the bungee fires it off not before.
If you power up early it could run forwards falling out of the sled.
Jim

Nice wings!!!

Hello Sebbe,

The wing incidence situation occurs because the main carbon fiber spar has a very small amount of play in the wing. When you dry fit the wing you can move the trailing/leading edge of the wing 1.5mm travel. In the end you want the leading and trailing edge of either wing half parallel with each other. Hope this helps a little.

best regards,
William

I think I understand..... its got to be level in front and back of the 2 wings.. they need to be indentical in any angle....

Thanks..

I wouldnt say a wing incidence "situation" occurs, nothing occurs, slop in the fit of parts that are to be epoxied in place will allow you to get the incidence (angle of the wing in relation to the centre line of the fuselage) of the wings out from each other, simple as that.

Sebbe:
This is why I dry fit everything and then check it first, make note of the placement of the centre of the LE at the root, mark spots on the tip of the LE and the fuse with texta so you can easily find the position later, then glue one wing in with the spar first, but have the other wing still in place taped securely to the side. Once the first wing has set, you can remeasure the two and adjust the position of the second wing if needed, then epoxy it in place.

Originally Posted by Extreme_RC

I wouldnt say a wing incidence "situation" occurs, nothing occurs, slop in the fit of parts that are to be epoxied in place will allow you to get the incidence (angle of the wing in relation to the centre line of the fuselage) of the wings out from each other, simple as that.

Sebbe:
This is why I dry fit everything and then check it first, make note of the placement of the centre of the LE at the root, mark spots on the tip of the LE and the fuse with texta so you can easily find the position later, then glue one wing in with the spar first, but have the other wing still in place taped securely to the side. Once the first wing has set, you can remeasure the two and adjust the position of the second wing if needed, then epoxy it in place.

Thanks, I understand..

I will glue it as straight as I can..