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Old Aug 18, 2010, 08:49 PM
Redneck Injuneer
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Bradenton, Florida
Joined Aug 2007
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Build Log
Aeromarine 1/8 Miller American hydro

My Miller American hydro arrived via UPS today. To be honest I'm a little disappointed in the quality for the price. It's going to take quite a bit of sanding along the seam lines and the hatch doesn't fit all that well either. I'll deal with it though.
When I ordered it a couple of weeks ago had planned to fit it with my 1527/1.5Y on 10s but am now leaning towards one of the new Leopard 5692's I'm thinking the 1340 kv on 6s 2p. There's enough room in the very front opening for a single 6s pack and I should be able to slip 2 more 3s packs in on either side of the motor to keep the weight forward.
Didn't accomplish a whole lot this evening. Just cut the opening for the strut and installed it to check for fit.
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Old Aug 18, 2010, 10:36 PM
I feel the need for speed!
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Southern U.S.
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Nice.........thats gonna be a real hog.............!! That big leopard should move it out well.
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Old Aug 20, 2010, 07:31 PM
Redneck Injuneer
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Bradenton, Florida
Joined Aug 2007
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Thanks Scorp. I suppose it will eventually make a nice hydro but I'm really disappointed in what I got for the $$ spent. I really expected more from a big name company like Aeromarine.
I drilled the holes for the turn fin mount last night and found there was only a thin layer of glass and about a 1/8" piece of ply to hold it. Got aggravated and stopped for the night.
This evening I fixed that problem. First made myself a paper pattern of the back of the sponson, then cut a piece of balsa to match it. I taped that to a bent clothes hanger and slid it inside to check for fit. (you sure can't get your hands in there) After getting a good fit with the balsa tranferred that pattern to a piece of 1/4" aircraft ply and using the hanger again coated the ply with a thick mix of 30 minute epoxy and milled fiberglass. Worked it into position and held pressure on it with a piece of aluminum bar stock until it cured.
After the epoxy cured re-drilled the holes through the added ply and tapped them to match the bolts. A little thin CA into the holes to harden the threads and ran the tap through again once it had cured. (then repeated the process again). I've done the same on retract mounts in my jets and it makes "threads of steel".
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Old Aug 20, 2010, 09:12 PM
Redneck Injuneer
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Bradenton, Florida
Joined Aug 2007
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Got "most" of the rough sanding on the seams done.
I guess now I understand why anybody that has an 1/8 scale wants a fortune for it.
Man I wish they built something this size in china. You could probably pick up a pre painted maybe even with hardware for a $100 less. Are you listening Hobby King?
That's all for me tonight. I don't have to work tomorrow or wouldn't have got this far. I'm still an old man and needs my sleep.
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Old Aug 20, 2010, 09:46 PM
I feel the need for speed!
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Old Aug 21, 2010, 06:05 AM
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Palma Sola,Fla.
Joined Oct 2006
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Wow... I'd be "a little dissapointed" as well - that hatch is inexcusable IMO. I think I'll sit on my wallet a bit longer and see how it turns out.
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Old Aug 21, 2010, 06:19 AM
Redneck Injuneer
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Bradenton, Florida
Joined Aug 2007
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For my persistant pm'er. I'm not looking to debate whether all the "light hydros" have the strut behind the boat instead of underneath it and certainly not going to do it via pm's.
My UL-1 has the strut behind and works well. However... I'm building this for oval competition and not to run around doing figure 8s or drag races in a backyard pond. I did a lot of research in the NAMBA rule book before starting this project.
Find yourself a NAMBA rule book. Check section 21, page 3 paragraph 9. "The propeller drive dog may extend one drive dog length beyond the transom"
If the strut were placed on the back of the transom it would take a REALLY BIG drive dog to be within one drive dog's length. So, even if you do know better I'll continue on with it my way. The strut allows for more adjustment than you might think as well.
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Old Aug 21, 2010, 06:30 AM
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Land O' Lakes, FL
Joined Aug 2003
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Yeah, but shipping would be $300!

Quote:
Originally Posted by bill34207 View Post
Got "most" of the rough sanding on the seams done.
I guess now I understand why anybody that has an 1/8 scale wants a fortune for it.
Man I wish they built something this size in china. You could probably pick up a pre painted maybe even with hardware for a $100 less. Are you listening Hobby King?
That's all for me tonight. I don't have to work tomorrow or wouldn't have got this far. I'm still an old man and needs my sleep.
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Old Aug 21, 2010, 06:33 AM
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Land O' Lakes, FL
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Bill, my 5692 motor came in if you want to get one in your hands. What are we going to use for motor mounts? We should get together. It's time for me to address the issue on my 1/8th Hydro I'm building.

I also noticed you mounted your strut amidships. I often see the strut mounted off center to the right (starboard) on right hand circle burners. Anyone?
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Old Aug 21, 2010, 09:24 AM
Redneck Injuneer
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Bradenton, Florida
Joined Aug 2007
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Morning Chris & Jim. I see that I lured a couple of people from the OSA forums over. Wish that Ray & Hugh would drop by since they both have more experience in the scale unlimited hydros than we do.
I'm still trying to decide whether to put the rudder on the port or starboard side and would welcome their input. I went with centerline on the strut because I didn't have a clue about how much offset would be beneficial and it will make it easier to line up the motor.
In the meantime, after finishing sanding the seams I pulled the strut back out and added a few layers of cf weave.
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Last edited by bill34207; Aug 21, 2010 at 09:37 AM. Reason: spelling. I really need to learn to proof read. :D
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Old Aug 21, 2010, 09:27 AM
RELAX. You'll live longer
785boats's Avatar
Brisbane- Australia
Joined Jul 2007
3,052 Posts
Nice build you've got going there Bill.
But Sailr is right. It's common practice to move the whole driveline off to the right about 3/16"-1/4" to counter the propwalk. That way you don't need any left rudder trim to track straight. That saves a lot of drag.
I did that with the Campbell shovel I just finished & the rudder is set at neutral for a straight run.
Cheers.
Paul.
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Old Aug 21, 2010, 09:52 AM
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Land O' Lakes, FL
Joined Aug 2003
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On the big 1/8th scales, I'm thinking 1/2" offset? My rudder is going on the right (starboard) side. That's the way you're turning. You don't want to be pulling the rudder up out of the water if you happen to lift the left sponson going around a turn! That's my way of thinking anyway. Not sure it's correct.

You're probably fine with that centered strut. Hugh said if in doubt, just center it and then trim the boat. I happen to agree with the offset. I'd rather not have to trim the rudder as that just slows you down.

Remember, the 101/th scales have all this reversed as they run counter clockwise!

How big is the Campbell roundnose?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 785boats View Post
Nice build you've got going there Bill.
But Sailr is right. It's common practice to move the whole driveline off to the right about 3/16"-1/4" to counter the propwalk. That way you don't need any left rudder trim to track straight. That saves a lot of drag.
I did that with the Campbell shovel I just finished & the rudder is set at neutral for a straight run.
Cheers.
Paul.
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Old Aug 21, 2010, 10:00 AM
nick 30
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Joined May 2009
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i have a miss t-plus hull to work on so i may try your idea of mounting the stru tinside but need to open the hatch area more to be able to work on it properly
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Old Aug 21, 2010, 10:26 AM
RELAX. You'll live longer
785boats's Avatar
Brisbane- Australia
Joined Jul 2007
3,052 Posts
Jim
The roundnose is only 24" long
Here's todays maiden run.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...1286857&page=3
Cheers.
Paul.
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Old Aug 21, 2010, 10:47 AM
Redneck Injuneer
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Bradenton, Florida
Joined Aug 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 785boats View Post
Nice build you've got going there Bill.
But Sailr is right. It's common practice to move the whole driveline off to the right about 3/16"-1/4" to counter the propwalk. That way you don't need any left rudder trim to track straight. That saves a lot of drag.
I did that with the Campbell shovel I just finished & the rudder is set at neutral for a straight run.
Cheers.
Paul.
Thanks Paul. Now that's what I like. Somebody that will give me some dimensions to shoot for. I haven't peeled back my masking tape yet (still waitng for the Zpoxy to finish curing) but if it flowed down enough to fill the holes may try the 1/4" offset even though the plans sheet that came with it shows it centered.

Jim, I think you may be thinking in 1/10 scale mode for counter closkwise turns on the rudder placement. Running clockwise in 1/8 you're more likely to lift the right (starboard) sponson in a turn. (I think)
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Last edited by bill34207; Aug 21, 2010 at 11:00 AM.
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