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Old Jun 26, 2012, 12:43 PM
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United States, MI, Grand Traverse
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Originally Posted by turboparker View Post
Brian,

Thanks! Interesting that you noticed the AoA. Good eye! The plane was rather tail-heavy on that flight. I thought that I had the cam pretty much centered over the CG - however, she needed quite a bit of down-trim for level flight. That's what I get for guessing, rather than actually measuring the CG. I'll move the pack further forward next time.

I find it interesting to listen to the different sounds made by prop & airframe at various flight-attitudes & during various maneuvers. I noticed that the 'sound of power' on the B3D is very similar to that of my PA Extra 260 - despite the significant difference in scale between the two planes. Did you notice the odd 'ripping sound' that the prop made during the power-on spin? I'm running the 5043 without the backplate, so there isn't much clearance between the prop & cowl. Could gyroscopic forces have caused a blade to contact the cowl during the power-on spin?

I'm tempted to try some 'wind-surfing' & stationary aerobatics with the cam on-board, but I'm a bit concerned about peak airframe loads, given the structural damage I found after flying in that 37 MPH wind at the fun-fly a few weeks ago. I'd be up for an 'extreme-performance' version of the B3D with c/f wings & tail feathers.

I definitely prefer to shoot from the pilot's perspective, but the rolling-shutter artifacts ruin the view for many people. I'd love to find a micro cam without the rolling-shutter problem that plagues consumer-grade CMOS sensors!

Joel
Yeah I'd guess that the ripping was the prop rubbing on the cowl. There is a slight chance it was the stalled prop blades slapping the air, kinda like cavitation on a marine prop. Most likely though the cowl hatch was getting pushed slightly right by the air (left spin) combined with the gyroscopic force resisting turning of the prop which would also push it right. Combined that could result in a rub. probably wouldn't see any marks as you'd be rubbing on the trailing edge of the blade.

I know you've got an sbach, if you've ever broke the prop adapter you could take the small "washer" from that and put it in place of the beast backplate. That is what I did when I was testing my 5530 on my 2300kv.

About the camera, No one like that rolling shutter, but it doesn't really bother me on a short 4-5min video. I did look into CCD video cameras but only found $150+ ones that were anywhere close in size/weight to the $30ish 808 style cameras.

+1 on the B3D Extreme version with an official 3S brick and maybe a 12-15% airfoil instead of 10%. Maybe Quique is watching this thread

-Brian
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Old Jun 26, 2012, 03:44 PM
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Ok if anyone can help me out. I picked up a f18 chuck glider I found at a hobby lobby store.for $10. I would really like the use the board, motor, and 120 2 cell that came woth my v1 beast. Can someone please tell me how to.program the board for elevons?
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Old Jun 26, 2012, 03:47 PM
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http://www.giantshark.co.uk/rcmodelp...-p-403788.html
thinking of getting a couple of these for the beastie
anybody see any reason why they would not be very good
thanks
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Old Jun 26, 2012, 03:53 PM
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United States, CA, Sebastopol
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Originally Posted by jaredeshadoan View Post
Ok if anyone can help me out. I picked up a f18 chuck glider I found at a hobby lobby store.for $10. I would really like the use the board, motor, and 120 2 cell that came woth my v1 beast. Can someone please tell me how to.program the board for elevons?
Your transmitter has to do it. Transmitters usually have a "wing type" or similar selection.
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Old Jun 26, 2012, 04:13 PM
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East Bethel, MN USA
Joined Jul 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaredeshadoan View Post
Ok if anyone can help me out. I picked up a f18 chuck glider I found at a hobby lobby store.for $10. I would really like the use the board, motor, and 120 2 cell that came woth my v1 beast. Can someone please tell me how to.program the board for elevons?
A number of us have already told you that elevons are programmed in the transmitter, not in the brick. See your transmitter manual for information on setting up an elevon mix.

Joel
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Old Jun 26, 2012, 04:20 PM
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East Bethel, MN USA
Joined Jul 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattextra260 View Post
http://www.giantshark.co.uk/rcmodelp...-p-403788.html
thinking of getting a couple of these for the beastie
anybody see any reason why they would not be very good
thanks
Matt,

That is a very heavy, very low-performance pack. Both are bad things on an unlimited aerobatic plane. You'll get way more power from a Hyperion 240 UMX pack, and it already has the right connector. If you're flying a V1 Beast, the Hyperion 180 UMX pack is also a great choice. Plus, Hyp packs can be charged in less than 15 minutes, and they last for hundreds of cycles.

Joel
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Old Jun 26, 2012, 09:38 PM
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Illinois
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For anyone having rudder/elevator servo problems I think I have good news. Horizon sent me a brand new receiver brick. I changed the brick and so far I have 3 flawless flights with it. Prior to this I had not had one good flight without either the elevator or rudder giving me problems. I was calling it the Beast of Burden. Now it's just the Beast. I hope to have many more trouble free flights. I won't go as far as saying thanks to Horizon because this was a PAIN! It should have worked like this out of the box.
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Old Jun 27, 2012, 06:48 AM
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United Kingdom, Gunnerton
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Hi Brian,

Thank you very much for trying this!

Quote:
Originally Posted by kalmon View Post
I think that there is just to much thrust and not enough weight to get the plane to tumble well at power. It just wants to fly out. I'll try again tomorrow when its light out and I can see better. Maybe if I quickly reduce the throttle to 1/2-2/3 as it starts to tumble the reduction in thrust will allow it to finish the lomcevak.
How do you think the as3x controller is responding to the tumble? Might this be causing the tendency to fly out rather than finish the lomcevak?
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Old Jun 27, 2012, 06:51 AM
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I'm waiting for the servo issues to be worked out.
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Old Jun 27, 2012, 07:36 AM
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Indianapolis, IN
Joined Oct 2010
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Flew my trouble free Beast 3D last night in the yard. I love this thing! I am replacing the carpet in our house with laminate so I threw down a carpet runway for the little Beastie and she took off with ease! I stuck a couple landings but I got to navigate a tree less than 8 feet to the right of the runway and a swingset about the same distance on the left and make it over the fence. Makes it really awesome when I do stick a landing!

Might have to order up some 3S packs now.
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Old Jun 27, 2012, 07:50 AM
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United States, MI, Grand Traverse
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Originally Posted by jcansdale View Post
Hi Brian,

Thank you very much for trying this!



How do you think the as3x controller is responding to the tumble? Might this be causing the tendency to fly out rather than finish the lomcevak?
Thanks, and sorry I meant to address this in the first post. I don't think the AS3X does anything in the tumble. From what HH says AS3X doesn't override and of the controls and in this maneuver you have all 3 axis in 100% deflection to get it to tumble therefor AS3X shouldn't be doing anything. It will however try to immediately stop the tumble as you release the sticks. This would cause a very abrupt exit, if it were able to do it.

I flew two more batteries and got pretty much the same results. I tried varying throttle positions but could not get that tail over tumble. Granted things happen extremely fast at this scale and maybe a really great 3D guy might be able to time it right, but for the average and even above average it is just a matter of chance if it is even possible at all. I'm still leaning towards it's not possible at this scale.

-Brian
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Last edited by kalmon; Jun 27, 2012 at 08:04 AM.
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Old Jun 27, 2012, 11:28 AM
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United States, OR, Portland
Joined Jun 2006
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Originally Posted by RealGambler View Post
Digikey.ca

455-1705-ND
455-1126-ND

And don't forget to pick either one of those based on your wire size:
455-1318-1-ND
455-1127-1-ND

Those connectors are effectively cheap, but the crimping tool is extremely costly... Luckily, you don't really need one.
Hi Guys,
i need to replace the esc side UMX connector and am going to buy some stuff from digikey. should i get other things while i'm at it to make use of the shipping? Like shrink tube? i dont have a large stock of anything electronic and perhaps there are some things that I would want for micros that are common but i dont know about?
thanks
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Old Jun 27, 2012, 11:29 AM
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United States, CA, Sebastopol
Joined Dec 2010
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Originally Posted by kalmon View Post
... It will however try to immediately stop the tumble as you release the sticks. This would cause a very abrupt exit, if it were able to do it.
...
Yes, this is what I experience. I do "sticks to the corner" tumbles... ill defined and imprecise for sure. But they're fun, and for crowds who think I know what I'm doing, they are a pleaser. When I release the sticks I am continually surprised by how fast it flies out, arrow straight in some direction. It's, like, "wham!" immediate. That exit is also a crowd pleaser.
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Old Jun 27, 2012, 12:40 PM
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United States, CT, Waterbury
Joined Oct 2002
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I just picked up a used B3D locally. I sold my Sbach about a month ago and regretted it about a day after the sale. hahaha

Anyways, I figured I'd try the B3D out. I have a stock battery, an eflite 220, a babbel 240, and two miniaviation 220's.

Some things I notice - it's pretty slow. Just barely enough power to go vertical on a fresh battery. After a couple more mins, vertical isn't possible anymore. Is this normal or is the motor on mine hurting? It has stock prop by the way - I ordered three 5030's and three 5043's to try.

I have about seven flights on it now. All went well except for today - I experienced elevator lockout. Luckily it was flying level and just started doing a few loops. I had control of everything but the elevator. After about 5 seconds I got control back. I started to come in on final when the elevator locked again. I had to use throttle to control the decent and got a nice smooth landing thankfully.

But now I'm afraid to fly the thing. I could only get the stuck elevator thing to happen once on the ground.

Should I open it up and clean the servo out? De-oxit? Call HH?

I need another Sbach. This plane will definitely NOT take the place of it. Good addition to the fleet if I can work the bugs out, but not an Sbach replacement

Thanks for any help or tips.
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Old Jun 27, 2012, 12:45 PM
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United States, CA, Sebastopol
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Originally Posted by TurboRacer View Post
I just picked up a used B3D locally. I sold my Sbach about a month ago and regretted it about a day after the sale. hahaha

Anyways, I figured I'd try the B3D out. I have a stock battery, an eflite 220, a babbel 240, and two miniaviation 220's.

Some things I notice - it's pretty slow. Just barely enough power to go vertical on a fresh battery. After a couple more mins, vertical isn't possible anymore. Is this normal or is the motor on mine hurting? It has stock prop by the way - I ordered three 5030's and three 5043's to try.

I have about seven flights on it now. All went well except for today - I experienced elevator lockout. Luckily it was flying level and just started doing a few loops. I had control of everything but the elevator. After about 5 seconds I got control back. I started to come in on final when the elevator locked again. I had to use throttle to control the decent and got a nice smooth landing thankfully.

But now I'm afraid to fly the thing. I could only get the stuck elevator thing to happen once on the ground.

Should I open it up and clean the servo out? De-oxit? Call HH?

I need another Sbach. This plane will definitely NOT take the place of it. Good addition to the fleet if I can work the bugs out, but not an Sbach replacement

Thanks for any help or tips.
Slow even with the Babbel batts? The stock batts are notoriously poor. Also, the 5043 won't work well on the stock 2500kv motor, even with Babbel Batts. The 4030's are the best for the stock motor.

Lockouts... yeah... people seem to be having trouble with this. I don't know what the answer is yet. New buyers are getting warranty replacements, but that won't work in your case.
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