I have a beast V1. Can the brick handle 3s? That video has inspired me. My batteries are old and tired and I need to buy some new batteries and was thinking about 3s. Also, I like the Sbach, is it as high performance as the Beast? Thanks. Nick.

Originally Posted by Nick9000

I have a beast V1. Can the brick handle 3s? That video has inspired me. My batteries are old and tired and I need to buy some new batteries and was thinking about 3s. Also, I like the Sbach, is it as high performance as the Beast? Thanks. Nick.

I don't think anyone has tried 3S with a v1 Beast yet. Will you be the first? Report back!

The Sbach is a different beast from the Beast... faster, more precise, less floaty, some think it's a little less fun, has less personality. But I like it a lot and I'm really glad I have a Beast too. Everyone needs both!

Originally Posted by Nick9000

I have a beast V1. Can the brick handle 3s? That video has inspired me. My batteries are old and tired and I need to buy some new batteries and was thinking about 3s. Also, I like the Sbach, is it as high performance as the Beast? Thanks. Nick.

Nick,

The V1 Beast's ESC has a lower current rating than the ESC in the newer UMX ships. The V1 brick may handle the voltage, but it is not likely to handle the increased current of a 3s setup.

If you are not already doing so, put a 5043 prop on our V1 & get some good packs - such as Hyperion 180s or the new Turnigy Nano 180s. This will dramatically improve the performance over the stock prop and/or pack.

Joel

I'm trying to find out if I can use regular CA or if I need foam safe CA?

And yes I have used the search and can't find anything on it.

I had my first mishap with my Beast. It was windy gusting to 20mph + and the wind quit blowing with me on final approach. She dropped very quickly and have a small tear in the bottom wing. What a bummer, just had a great flight and learned to knife edge.

Originally Posted by Dizzy5

I'm trying to find out if I can use regular CA or if I need foam safe CA?

Foam safe! Definitely!!

Ok thanks, have plenty of regular CA, but no foam safe

Originally Posted by Dizzy5

Ok thanks, have plenty of regular CA, but no foam safe

Dizzy,

I don't use foam safe ca anymore on foam repairs.
Very brittle joints.

This stuff is amazing!
Can be used like a contact cement for fast field repairs as well.

http://www.filadelfosrc.com/index.ph...id=146:foamtac


rc

Originally Posted by RCBABBEL

Dizzy,

I don't use foam safe ca anymore on foam repairs.
Very brittle joints.

This stuff is amazing!
Can be used like a contact cement for fast field repairs as well.

http://www.filadelfosrc.com/index.ph...id=146:foamtac


rc

I have some that I bought a few years ago and I never liked the stuff it was to thick and had strings like a hot glue gun when I applied it.. This place is claiming that they have improved it.. So I ordered some, we will see if it's any better now..

Originally Posted by livonia bob

I have some that I bought a few years ago and I never liked the stuff it was to thick and had strings like a hot glue gun when I applied it.. This place is claiming that they have improved it.. So I ordered some, we will see if it's any better now..

I've seen enough favorable reports, from a variety of sources, that I just ordered a couple of bottles meself.

2nd Beast 3d is here, would'nt you know, after about 5 days of no beast 3d and no wind i find myself with a new beast 3d and loads of wind argh bloody argh and its cold outside lol.

I think i might pass the 3s craze this time round
My prayers go out to the dead bricks.

I've allways wondered this, whats the easist way to change to the control surfaces for more handling, how do you take the rods from out of the horn holes?
I've never been happy teh way i do it.

Originally Posted by pugsam

I've seen enough favorable reports, from a variety of sources, that I just ordered a couple of bottles meself.

Good stuff!

Originally Posted by Clouds4brains

2nd Beast 3d is here, would'nt you know, after about 5 days of no beast 3d and no wind i find myself with a new beast 3d and loads of wind argh bloody argh and its cold outside lol.

I think i might pass the 3s craze this time round
My prayers go out to the dead bricks.

I've allways wondered this, whats the easist way to change to the control surfaces for more handling, how do you take the rods from out of the horn holes?I've never been happy teh way i do it.

C4b,

It's one of those skills that you get better at with practice.
My favorite method:

I use two small long needle nose pliers.
Like the one in this set:
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-piece...set-31675.html
I grab the control rod close to the horn with one.
I lightly flex the control horn with the other plier.
It's a quick twist and flex motion.
If I made vids, you would see just how fast and easy it is to do.


rc

Originally Posted by RCBABBEL

C4b,

It's one of those skills that you get better at with practice.
My favorite method:

I use two small long needle nose pliers.
Like the one in this set:
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-piece...set-31675.html
I grab the control rod close to the horn with one.
I lightly flex the control horn with the other plier.
It's a quick twist and flex motion.
If I made vids, you would see just how fast and easy it is to do.


rc

Thanks Rcbabbel,
That's the way i do it, i find it very tricky, these little buggers are so little and light and my fingers are so fat.

Originally Posted by Clouds4brains

2nd Beast 3d is here, would'nt you know, after about 5 days of no beast 3d and no wind i find myself with a new beast 3d and loads of wind argh bloody argh and its cold outside lol.

I think i might pass the 3s craze this time round
My prayers go out to the dead bricks.

I've allways wondered this, whats the easist way to change to the control surfaces for more handling, how do you take the rods from out of the horn holes?
I've never been happy teh way i do it.

C4B,

I'm not all than happy with my method, either - but I have yet to damage anything by doing it this way. I hold the pushrod with my fingers while I carefully twist the free end of the control horn with a needle-nose pliers. I then use my fingers to remove the pushrod. To reinstall, I twist the horn 90 degrees with the pliers & use my fingers to insert the pushrod.

Joel

Originally Posted by turboparker

C4B,

I'm not all than happy with my method, either - but I have yet to damage anything by doing it this way. I hold the pushrod with my fingers while I carefully twist the free end of the control horn with a needle-nose pliers. I then use my fingers to remove the pushrod. To reinstall, I twist the horn 90 degrees with the pliers & use my fingers to insert the pushrod.

Joel

I think it's sc ary as hell trying to change all the linkages but like you i have'nt broke anything, i just feel somethinbg might break lol and grit my teeth lol, abit like flashing a bios teeth gritting hehe