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Old Oct 22, 2012, 07:19 PM
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United States, CA, Mt Shasta
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Control horn replacements

I lost a control horn on my Beast. HH sent me replacement horns #efla211 but they are huge! I'm rebuilding the wing set on the Beast and don't know if new ones come with the set. Anyone know where I can get proper control horns? Are the Dubro micro horns correct size? Do new horns come with the new wing set?
Mike
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Old Oct 22, 2012, 07:42 PM
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United States, CA, Mt Shasta
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prop painting

My Beast has survived another catastrophic crash and during patch job I also couldn't resist painting the prop and the prop adapter (that holds the spinner). Plane is back in the air, but sluggish. Is it that I'm used to the Sbach's speed now or could it be that some paint on the prop tips could be slowing the 5030 prop down? Like the look with painted tips when landing and slow passes but miss the speed.
Mike
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Old Oct 22, 2012, 08:00 PM
Way to many airplanes!
Canada, QC
Joined Oct 2009
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The battery debate will never be solved. Nobody has the time to use some decently calibrated hardware, and cycle some batteries safely 300 times to see how long they last. Sure enough, you can compare two batteries by cycling them a few time or you can measure RPM, but guys who log every flight for every batteries are very rare (though, some awesome apps are now showing up, which use bar code on batteries, so that may help in the future).

One thing I learn is people ALWAYS think they fly way more than they really do. It does take forever to log 300 flights on one single battery (unless you fly with/own only one battery!). If you have only 10 batteries, you need 3000 flights before you average 300 cycles on them. I suspect most people don't do that many flights in one some summer... Heck, if everybody did, HH could hire any of us to wear those blue shirts!
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Old Oct 22, 2012, 08:11 PM
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East Bethel, MN USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shastamike View Post
My Beast has survived another catastrophic crash and during patch job I also couldn't resist painting the prop and the prop adapter (that holds the spinner). Plane is back in the air, but sluggish. Is it that I'm used to the Sbach's speed now or could it be that some paint on the prop tips could be slowing the 5030 prop down? Like the look with painted tips when landing and slow passes but miss the speed.
Mike
Mike,

A very thin, uniform coat of paint on the prop tips shouldn't affect performance enough to notice. In fact, a common method of balancing wood props is to use a dab of clear-coat on the tip of the lighter blade. Also, many people paint prop-tips for a more scale appearance and/or for safety reasons. However, a thick or non-uniform coat of paint out at the tips of a prop this small might screw up the airfoil enough to cause problems. The majority of a prop's thrust is developed near the outer part of the blades, while the part near the root develops very little, if any appreciable thrust.

Joel
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Old Oct 22, 2012, 08:13 PM
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United States, CA, Mt Shasta
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Originally Posted by turboparker View Post
Mike,

A very thin, uniform coat of paint on the prop tips shouldn't affect performance enough to notice. In fact, a common method of balancing wood props is to use a dab of clear-coat on the tip of the lighter blade. Also, many people paint prop-tips for a more scale appearance and/or for safety reasons. However, a thick or non-uniform coat of paint out at the tips of a prop this small might screw up the airfoil enough to cause problems. The majority of a prop's thrust is developed near the outer part of the blades, while the part near the root develops very little, if any appreciable thrust.

Joel
Thanks Joel. Looking at my paint job the tips are like blobs. Paint and glue are my two weaknesses. Time for a new prop.
Mike
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Old Oct 22, 2012, 09:54 PM
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United States, MI, Grand Traverse
Joined Oct 2008
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Originally Posted by shastamike View Post
Thanks Joel. Looking at my paint job the tips are like blobs. Paint and glue are my two weaknesses. Time for a new prop.
Mike
Get the gray GWS 5030, Then use a black sharpie on everything except the tips. Use a red on that. You'll have a great looking prop with almost 0 added weight. Plus that black sharpie acts like a wear strip. When it gets scratched off it is probably time to replace or at least re-balance the prop.

-Brian
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by kalmon View Post
Get the gray GWS 5030, Then use a black sharpie on everything except the tips. Use a red on that. You'll have a great looking prop with almost 0 added weight. Plus that black sharpie acts like a wear strip. When it gets scratched off it is probably time to replace or at least re-balance the prop.

-Brian
Nice..good advice Brian.
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 12:42 PM
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Anyone know how or where to buy the correct control horns? Hard to believe that HH can't come up with the right part.
Mike
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Old Oct 25, 2012, 04:38 PM
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Indianapolis, IN
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Tried 3S, no go. Motor would shutdown after about ten seconds on anything above 1/3 throttle. Zero throttle the throttle and you get the motor back. This cycle repeats over and over, it is an unusually warm today, about 75. What needs to happen now?
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Old Oct 25, 2012, 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by IndyMatt View Post
Tried 3S, no go. Motor would shutdown after about ten seconds on anything above 1/3 throttle. Zero throttle the throttle and you get the motor back. This cycle repeats over and over, it is an unusually warm today, about 75. What needs to happen now?
Heat sinks and ventilation?
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Old Oct 25, 2012, 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by IndyMatt View Post
Tried 3S, no go. Motor would shutdown after about ten seconds on anything above 1/3 throttle. Zero throttle the throttle and you get the motor back. This cycle repeats over and over, it is an unusually warm today, about 75. What needs to happen now?
Well, crumb... I assume you installed a heatsink on the FETs? Did you peel the clear backing off the thermal tape before sticking it on? It should require no other adhesive than the tape I put on the heatsink.

If it's that sensitive you may be out of luck. You can try opening up air passages around the prop to get more airflow. Check and see how much goop is around the FETs too. That can cause problems. Carve away the excess.
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Old Oct 25, 2012, 06:27 PM
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I applied the heatsink to the voltage regulator so that may be the problem basically the big black square on the board. What do the FETS look like, I saw your picture where you circled the voltage regulator (big black computer chip looking piece). So I am assuming that I applied the heatsink to the wrong do-hicky, thing a ma jig, or other some such coloquism for an unknown item.
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Old Oct 25, 2012, 06:31 PM
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Sorry it wasn't you but this is the picture that I was referring too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kalmon View Post
Here is a picture of the Voltage Regulator on a stock brick. It is the only thing with a metal heatspreader on it. I used Erkq's heatsink attachment method and just used thermal adhesive and attached the heatsink directly to the existing heatspreader. (not pictured)

-Brian
http://static.rcgroups.net/forums/at...0Regulator.jpg
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Old Oct 25, 2012, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by IndyMatt View Post
I applied the heatsink to the voltage regulator so that may be the problem basically the big black square on the board. What do the FETS look like, I saw your picture where you circled the voltage regulator (big black computer chip looking piece). So I am assuming that I applied the heatsink to the wrong do-hicky, thing a ma jig, or other some such coloquism for an unknown item.
That was someone else's pic, but yeah, I remember it. That was the VR. The FETs are three black squares in a row, on the other side of the brick from the VR, right where the motor drive wires come off the brick. The heatsink fits over all of them perfectly.

Don't take the heatsink off the VR unless you can find more thermal tape. The tape is good for only one application.

Um... need another heatsink?
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Old Oct 25, 2012, 06:49 PM
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United States, TN, Jackson
Joined Mar 2007
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I found a problem that could explain some of the elevator servo "lockouts" and complaints of the elevator sticking...

I was flying my AS3X B3D with a 2300kv motor and 5043 GWS prop on 2S with the new NanoTech 35C 300mAh batts...With this combo the plane is MUCH faster than stock...I put the plane into a full throttle diving turn...Suddenly I didn't have any elevator...I pulled the power back and instictively yanked back on the stick...When the plane slowed I regained elevator control...I immediately landed and checked the plane over---I initially thought that either the elevator was either sticking or I was experiencing interference...I added up all of the evidence and came to the conclusion that the elevator was going soft and when I pulled the power back I regained elevator control...I held the elevator stationary and gave full up---I was shocked to see the carbon fiber elevator control rod easily bow!!!...I've added a piece to support the elevator control rod at the midpoint of the control rod by using/glueing in a piece of milk jug material shaped like the stock white elevator supports...Just like the ones used on the rudder/elevator pushrods where they exit the plane...

I test flew the plane and put it through some full throttle dives and the mod works!!!...With my above mentioned power setup you can hear the prop tips sing!!!

Kevin
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Last edited by Kevin Greene; Oct 25, 2012 at 09:35 PM.
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