Hey guys. just got an v2 beast the other week. Finally got to fly it the other day. My first plane with as3x. Wow, so rock solid. Really made me realize how twitchy all my other micro's are. Anyway, I was wondering about the cg. I'm sure it's been asked but it's been a while since I've been in this thread. Use to follow religiously when I had the v1 then fell off the wagon.

In the manual it mentions at the back of the compartment. There is the area where the straight line stops and then it goes vertical and back some more. When it says to place all the way to the back is it talking about that first line or is it talking about all the way up underneath the foam?

Also to I'm on a jr x9503 and maybe I need to make some type of throttle adjustment, but the motor doesn't seem to kick in until I'm over a 1/4 throttle on the stick. Anyone else having that be the case?

Originally Posted by Kevin Greene

I'm getting cutoffs almost immediately...I advance the throttle slowly and when I get to a certain point the throttle cuts...I can advance the throttle fast and the cutoff is pretty much instant after a certain point...My Hyperion 3S packs are brand new and hot off of the charger...I would imagine they are pretty stout when new...

I launched the plane at half throttle to just get it in the air...The plane flew well but when I advanced the throttle the motor cut...I had power to the servos...I'm thinking that I need to put the stock super flexi 5x2.75 prop back on to lower the amps to the motor...After the batts loose a little poop when flying for a minute or two I'm thinking that I can go to full throttle without cutoffs---We'll see...No goop on the FETs or anywhere else except for on the input power lead pads on the brick...

I opened up HUGE cutouts in the cowl for extra air...I'm leaning toward opening up more exit holes...It takes more exit area than intake area to get air flowing in the right direction with any gusto...

Tomorrow I may just post a vid to show what I'm experiencing...

Kevin

Remember Kevin, some of these Beast boards do not like 3S! Take the prop off and throttle it up. If it runs WOT, you know the amps are causing the shut downs. If it runs, you'll have to use an external ESC if you want to go 3S.

Originally Posted by NitroCharged

Remember Kevin, some of these Beast boards do not like 3S! Take the prop off and throttle it up. If it runs WOT, you know the amps are causing the shut downs. If it runs, you'll have to use an external ESC if you want to go 3S.

A heatsink can also make a world of difference as many of us have experienced. Not all the time... but mostly.

Originally Posted by NitroCharged

Remember Kevin, some of these Beast boards do not like 3S! Take the prop off and throttle it up. If it runs WOT, you know the amps are causing the shut downs. If it runs, you'll have to use an external ESC if you want to go 3S.

I'm not entirely sure this would work. In theory it sounds good but in actual testing there are another variables. Like airflow, in a static prop-less test there will be zero airflow and that alone may dramatically increase temps inside while running 3S. On the other hand the decreased draw of running prop-less may actually reduce heat... Then again is may work too
Off topic but I was able to capture programming data sent to the brick by the USB programmer. VERY little data.

Port opened by process "gyrodel2007.exe" (PID: 2912)
Write:
AA 01 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 AB AA 02 00 14 10 10 09 09 09 FB

Port closed
This was writing 3D Aerobatic in normal orientation to the brick. I'll be recording writing the same config file in reversed orientations and comparing today!! should be VERY easy to pinpoint what hex values are the gyro gains.

Originally Posted by erkq

A heatsink can also make a world of difference as many of us have experienced. Not all the time... but mostly.

+1
Made a work of difference for me!

-Brian

After crashing my trusty T-28 due to the mechanic (me) getting too cocky with the control surfaces I brought out my Beast to finish out my morning flight. Bound up and the right aileron servo was "squeaky squeaky" back and forth with no input from me. It would stop and start again if I tested the ailerons. Took it home same thing. So this is a sticky servo? Never had one. Finally thought to try some lube. No DeoxIT here in small town and I'm too impatient (that's how I learned about not using anything but foam safe CA), so me being me I used some WD-40. Well,,,it didn't melt the plane and was very messy, but I bound up and it gave one squeak and then complied. Test flight went well.
So...did I have a sticky servo? What's the good DeoxIT to get? I see different sizes and types. I would assume I need one with a small applicator. Spray or liquid? What do you guys think? Thank you as always.
Mike

Originally Posted by jlcamp7

Hey guys. just got an v2 beast the other week. Finally got to fly it the other day. My first plane with as3x. Wow, so rock solid. Really made me realize how twitchy all my other micro's are. Anyway, I was wondering about the cg. I'm sure it's been asked but it's been a while since I've been in this thread. Use to follow religiously when I had the v1 then fell off the wagon.

In the manual it mentions at the back of the compartment. There is the area where the straight line stops and then it goes vertical and back some more. When it says to place all the way to the back is it talking about that first line or is it talking about all the way up underneath the foam?

Also to I'm on a jr x9503 and maybe I need to make some type of throttle adjustment, but the motor doesn't seem to kick in until I'm over a 1/4 throttle on the stick. Anyone else having that be the case?

There are some photos if you search "CG". I fly hyperion 240 which I tuck way back under the cowl until it's just past the red part of the top of battery hatch for proper CG on my Beast. I have a smaller 200mAH batt that I push back just until I'm even with the top of the battery hatch. Today I flew in 10+ wind and put the battery about halfway back behind top of hatch. Hard to describe, best to look at photos of where other guys put theirs. All this was figured by checking the CG on a bench which if you don't know can be found in this Micro forum also. Big thing is that after a couple dozen batteries I've found how I like the plane to fly by feel and adjust the batteries accordingly.
WIth my DX6i the throttle starts the motor right up with no 1/4 throttle delay. Maybe you have the throttle trimmed a bit? I used to do that with helicopters so I didn't bump the throttle and have the heli fire up until I pushed the throttle up a bit.
Mike

I did a search on this thread and kinda skimmed over some of the setups that others are using....One of the guys that has had good success on 3S isn't using premium batteries...He's using 200mAh 20C rated batts...Another is using 1S batts in a series harness...The point being that my 25C 240mAh batts could be allowing more power to the motor than what some others are running...Hence the need for some to run heat sinks, piggy backing FETs, etc, and some not having to do any mods...As well as just some variances in some of the bricks...

I think that I will just stay with 2S for a while on this plane and just enjoy it while it still is pristine...I do have another AS3X brick coming and I can mod it to have it ready to drop in place in this or another plane...To keep from ruining a brick I can always just get a micro 8 amp ESC and plug it into the 5th channel and mix with the throttle...

Kevin

Originally Posted by shastamike

After crashing my trusty T-28 due to the mechanic (me) getting too cocky with the control surfaces I brought out my Beast to finish out my morning flight. Bound up and the right aileron servo was "squeaky squeaky" back and forth with no input from me. It would stop and start again if I tested the ailerons. Took it home same thing. So this is a sticky servo? Never had one. Finally thought to try some lube. No DeoxIT here in small town and I'm too impatient (that's how I learned about not using anything but foam safe CA), so me being me I used some WD-40. Well,,,it didn't melt the plane and was very messy, but I bound up and it gave one squeak and then complied. Test flight went well.
So...did I have a sticky servo? What's the good DeoxIT to get? I see different sizes and types. I would assume I need one with a small applicator. Spray or liquid? What do you guys think? Thank you as always.
Mike

Get this: http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/FaderLubeS/
Free shipping.
Surprised your servos survived WD-40! Yuck... the wrong stuff for sure!

Originally Posted by jlcamp7

Also to I'm on a jr x9503 and maybe I need to make some type of throttle adjustment, but the motor doesn't seem to kick in until I'm over a 1/4 throttle on the stick. Anyone else having that be the case?

My two Beasts (V1 & V2) both do the same thing with my 9503...What I do is to put power on the plane and let it go through its initialization---After initialized I advance the throttle as the AS3X doesn't kick in until you advance the throttle...I lower the throttle to off and then adjust the trim until the prop starts to spin...Back off a couple of clicks and the throttle will now start as soon as you move the stick...

I've had a few of these ParkZone/Eflite micros/UMX's do the same thing..

Kevin

Originally Posted by erkq

Get this: http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/FaderLubeS/
Free shipping.
Surprised your servos survived WD-40! Yuck... the wrong stuff for sure!

Looks good, thanks for the advice and link. Using the WD-40 was the move of a RC flight addict. I've got it bad and need to get back into the air ASAP. Luckily I only sprayed one servo, but I got a couple of batteries in today! Maybe some more tonight I got it bad. Started with helicopters and moved up to the hard stuff (foam?).
Mike

Originally Posted by Kevin Greene

I think that I will just stay with 2S for a while on this plane and just enjoy it while it still is pristine

Kevin

This plane is really enjoyable on 2S if you change the motor and prop. 2300kv motor and a 5043 prop or a 3000kv motor and a 5030 prop will really improve performance! Coupled with good quality 2S packs You'll probably get almost 40% more performance than the stock setup.

-Brian

Originally Posted by kalmon

This plane is really enjoyable on 2S if you change the motor and prop. 2300kv motor and a 5043 prop or a 3000kv motor and a 5030 prop will really improve performance! Coupled with good quality 2S packs You'll probably get almost 40% more performance than the stock setup.

-Brian

THANKS!!!...GREAT suggestions!!!....

I have a couple of nice Turnigy 2900kv motors on hand...
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...er_2900kv.html

They sure turn some RPM!!!...I have one reserved for a Champ on floats and the other for a PZ micro Mustang pylon racer (Voodoo) with a modified symetrical wing...One of these other projects might have to take a back seat---Or---Use the Eflite 2500kv in the Champ and the 2900kv in the Beast......

Kevin

everyone missed the point of my test......

Thanks for the info guys. Will play with cg and also use your input on the 9503 Kevin.

Originally Posted by NitroCharged

everyone missed the point of my test......

When I purchased the V1 Beast I was on top of this thread but after a while it had run its course for me...I've been away from the thread for quite some time due to only recently having purchased my 3D Beast...I haven't kept up with the thread......This thread is one large son of a gun!!!...I'll admitt that I'm a bit behind when it comes to keeping up with the ever changing technology for some of these planes!!!.....

What test are you referring to???...Link???

THANKS for the time and effort you put into these forums!!!...I'm now going to fly my Beast 3D to see what else I can discover about the AS3X...

Kevin