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Old Oct 04, 2010, 07:59 AM
I LIKE WAFFLES....
SENTRY 62's Avatar
Powder Springs, GA
Joined Sep 2010
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Last edited by SENTRY 62; Mar 24, 2011 at 04:53 PM.
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Old Oct 10, 2010, 09:19 PM
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dmoisuk's Avatar
Regina, Canada
Joined Sep 2010
144 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ridgewalker View Post
Save your servo!

Noticed today that the landing skid mount on the rear left in a hard crash will cause contact between the big servo gear and the landing gear at the frame.

Hold the heli firmly and press the skid up on the rear left side....notice how the little nub/mounting post from the landing gear sticking up through the chassis can contact the servo gear ...The skid will break the servo gear in a hard crash...not good

The easy fix is to trim the rear left skid where it mounts to the chassis/frame.

Remove the skid from the heli.
You only need to trim just a small slice.....Use a dremel or some other tool that will cut through the tiny steel rod that is inside the skid mount at the chassis/frame.
Cut it so that when the skid is installed the skid mounting post is flush with the chassis/frame...By doing that you will save you left servo from getting ruined on a hard landing/crash.

On to the pics
I thought this was a good idea and did the mod. Then my big white gear went missing???
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Old Oct 11, 2010, 02:32 AM
VAPORIZED
pappy1's Avatar
Australia, SA, Adelaide
Joined May 2010
1,266 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmoisuk View Post
I thought this was a good idea and did the mod. Then my big white gear went missing???
That mod would have nothing to do with your servo gear dissapearing,on my servos i see a little c-clip on top of the servo.Is yours still there?
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Old Oct 11, 2010, 01:17 PM
The lunatic is on the grass
ridgewalker's Avatar
Joined Aug 2008
4,843 Posts
dmoisuk....

Yeah, your servo gear went missing for some other reason..

The skid has no part in holding on the servo gear...LOL
Look a little closer and you will see how the gear is held on


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Old Nov 15, 2010, 10:34 PM
Registered User
Joined Mar 2006
29 Posts
Hi

This is how I modded my tail rotor to prevent that bearing from falling out. I just got some wide heat shrink tubing and wrapped it around the whole motor. Works like it should.





More pics and a video here:
http://kenbuys.com/eflite-blade-120-sr-rc-helicopter/
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Old Nov 15, 2010, 11:21 PM
Heli's rule!
dacaur's Avatar
Midvale, Utah, USA
Joined Mar 2005
8,574 Posts
I lost that bearing long ago... good riddance... once less thing to worry about Has anyone heard of any issues flying without it? I havent....
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Old Dec 08, 2010, 11:19 AM
What tree??.......Doh!!
Smokin_Joes's Avatar
USA, WA, Seattle
Joined Aug 2007
714 Posts
Tail motor bearing keeper mod FTW!

Thanks Ridgewalker. This mod is helpful. I should probably be more proactive and change all prior to my next flight

Neil
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Old Jan 15, 2011, 02:22 PM
Quads Helis Planes Cars
Nerm's Avatar
Canada, ON, Brampton
Joined Aug 2009
421 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ridgewalker View Post
Save your servo!

Noticed today that the landing skid mount on the rear left in a hard crash will cause contact between the big servo gear and the landing gear at the frame.

Hold the heli firmly and press the skid up on the rear left side....notice how the little nub/mounting post from the landing gear sticking up through the chassis can contact the servo gear ...The skid will break the servo gear in a hard crash...not good

The easy fix is to trim the rear left skid where it mounts to the chassis/frame.

Remove the skid from the heli.


You only need to trim just a small slice.....Use a dremel or some other tool that will cut through the tiny steel rod that is inside the skid mount at the chassis/frame.
Cut it so that when the skid is installed the skid mounting post is flush with the chassis/frame...By doing that you will save you left servo from getting ruined on a hard landing/crash.

On to the pics
Thanks for all the tips Ridge

I got my Sr120 today and checked out the possible landing gear problem.
Being reluctant to do the Dremel thing I unplugged both rear pins of the landing gear and slipped a number 006 (1/8 id) oring over each pin. Slipped the same orings over each end of the landing skids to stop sliding on smooth floors.
Since the pins don't slip in tight now I put a small drop of hot glue on the pin and then put them back into their slots. A nice fit and it's quick. A hair dryer will soften the glue if it ever has to be taken apart.

I also used a very thin wire to secure the motor.
These 2 mods added no measurable weight and I am glad I did them even though they might never be needed. It just feels better doing so.

Thanks for the tips Ridge. Without the helpfull info from the posters on RCgroups I wouldn't know 90 percent of what I have learned over the last 2 years.
Darn addictive hobby. 13 Planes and 7 Helis in 2 years and I still have more on the to-buy list.
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Old Jan 25, 2011, 10:09 PM
Diverted by planks
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South Florida
Joined Dec 2010
4,961 Posts
I enjoy my mCX2 partly because it is so easy to track with it's LED nav lights...

I recently had ordered some E-Flite lighting parts for a scale UH-1 body. The parts all came in quantities of 2 per pack, so I had a spare set of lighting just laying around.

I figured it was time to add some visual zip to my dull 120 SR!

The Eflite LED parts are nice in that they come with a load resistor already in line, and a nice connector, so they are almost plug and play, good for from 3.7 volt to 5.5 volt supplies. I decided I did not need to use a controller for my simple lights, so I just wired them 'point-to-point:



ADDING A 4-ELEMENT LED LIGHTING PACKAGE TO THE E-FLITE BLADE 120SR:


Step One was to pick off a good source of Vcc. I choose to use one half of an LED extension harness, so I could have tinned wires on one end and a connector on the other. I tacked it to the 5-in-1 board where the battery connects. Of course, this type of mod will void your warranty I'm sure, but it seems pretty innocuous from a functional standpoint -- each LED is only pulling about 10 mA, for a total of < 40 mA.


Step Two was to re-install the 5-in-1 cover, after routing the pigtail and securing it by taking a couple of turns around the much larger gauge motor wires. This way if I pull on it while connecting and disconnecting the canopy later, it won't be pulling on the solder connections:



Step Three was to wire up the canopy. I could have hot glued the LEDs in place, and still might, but I carefully marked then made a slightly undersized opening in four places, using a sharp pair of cuticle scissors. The LEDs feel quite secure just being pushed into place. The wiring is pretty easy, just took a bit of patience since the wires are so small. Needed to gently bend the LED leads 90 degrees so that the load resistors would lay flat against the canopy. There is a lot of dead space in the nose of the 120 SR with the canopy installed, unlike the Blade 400 or some other models, so I did not have to take particular care with my wire routing:


And finally, here is just a static video of the lights turned on. I might try to catch it in-flight tomorrow, I think they look really good! I thought four LED's might be overdoing it, but that clear one is a good spot, the flashing one is a beacon, and the other two are standard nav orientation, so I don't think it is over the top like some of those Chinese coaxes...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xLTA_7wgMgw

Parts list:

Item Price Qnty Subtotal
EFL-A601 Universal Light Kit LED Solid, Red, (2 Pieces) $2.72 0.50 $1.36
EFL-A602 Universal Light Kit LED Solid, Clear, (2 Pieces) $2.72 0.50 $1.36
EFL-A604 Universal Light Kit LED Solid, Green, (2 Pieces) $2.72 0.50 $1.36
EFL-A607 Universal Light Kit LED Flashng, Red, (2 Pieces) $2.72 0.50 $1.36
EFL-A614 Universal Light Kit Extension 12-inch, (2 Pieces) $3.11 0.50 $1.56

Total: $7.00
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Last edited by tracknoob; Jan 26, 2011 at 05:09 PM.
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Old Jan 27, 2011, 07:01 PM
Diverted by planks
tracknoob's Avatar
South Florida
Joined Dec 2010
4,961 Posts
Well, I just got back from night flying the 120SR with nav lights in the front yard/driveway, and it is sweet! It's very easy to track with those on there.

I'm on like the seventh charge of the original Lipo, and since I had a little TBE, I took the links off, and replaced all four of them with the extras bagged as spares, and that tamed it considerably.

I went from pretty firm on the blade tightening to full-on loosey-goosey flopping around, just to see if the difference is a big one. My next experiment is back to just barely snug, as I think is recommended by most.

The 45degree flybar does take some 'planning' in terms of the delay-reaction cycle, but after a piece, I was getting pretty good at tail in hover, piros, left side and right side hover, and some forward flight. It's very zippy and responsive with the longer swash links, and I had a blast.

I'm trying to make sure my enthusiasm doesn't totally overwhelm my capabilities, so it's back to some seat time at the sim tomorrow using full-CP models. Then, when my Skype-headset finally comes in, I begin my post-RADD instruction by seeing if I can get on Capt' Jac's list.
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Old Feb 02, 2011, 11:10 PM
The lunatic is on the grass
ridgewalker's Avatar
Joined Aug 2008
4,843 Posts
Nice lights tracknoob!....must have a steady hand for that soldering!

k3nv...Now thats a nice way to hold that bearing on there!!

Smokin Joes..."Tail motor bearing keeper mod FTW!"....lol

Your welcome Nerm...lots and lots of great info and members here!!


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Old Feb 03, 2011, 10:46 AM
Diverted by planks
tracknoob's Avatar
South Florida
Joined Dec 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ridgewalker View Post
Nice lights tracknoob!....must have a steady hand for that soldering!

Ridgewalker
Thanks!

As with all mods, if I knew then what I knew now, I'd have gone about it slightly differently:

I wanted a little less obtrusive LEDs, like those on the mCX2, but since they looked like they were glued in place, I didn't want to pay the twenty dollars for a mCX2 replacement canopy to use as a donor, just to rip it apart to steal the LEDS. Later on, I discovered that you can get those micro-sized LEDs as a spare -- so, that is what I would use if I was to re-do it, and I also am going to try to get some of that ultra small gauge wiring that E-Flite uses on their LED extensions, for future low-current draw mods:

Pic of the mCX2 led replacement part, EFLH2404, ~ $5.00)
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=984
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Old Feb 03, 2011, 04:53 PM
The lunatic is on the grass
ridgewalker's Avatar
Joined Aug 2008
4,843 Posts
You could use magnet wire...like the tail motor wire from the 5 in 1 through the boom...that wire can be had in some pretty small sizes.


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Old Feb 03, 2011, 05:20 PM
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tracknoob's Avatar
South Florida
Joined Dec 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ridgewalker View Post
You could use magnet wire...like the tail motor wire from the 5 in 1 through the boom...that wire can be had in some pretty small sizes.


Ridgewalker

The nice thing about that, is that not only is it small and lightweight, but being solid, I'll bet it holds its shape when you put it somewhere pretty well. Some of the higher quality stranded wire is just too limp to stay put in the smaller sizes!
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Old Feb 03, 2011, 06:30 PM
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Oviedo
Joined Jun 2010
2,241 Posts
This may be a long time proyect..

But what do you guys think of fitting this bird with a lama A300 fuselaje?



I think total lenght of the body is 38cm .. longer than the 32cm 120SR.. but the Huey has a nose quite longer than the 120SR
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