|Aug 17, 2010, 07:38 AM|
Pro-Boat Runabout Chris Craft and water cooling?
Hi... So i neat a littel break from the Steam Boats,,,
and i Have read all what there is to read,,about Chris Craft on this Forum...Great Thanks.....and to a start ,,a Pro-boat look to be the one...Got one from Ebay,,129us+shipping to Denmark..63us,,,3 days after i got it,,,and Woow what a nice and good looking boat it is,,,and a fine size to,,,i have read what many have don to the boat ,,great ides and info,,,so a new Motor,,Titan 550.12t,,and a new Esc in,,,a cooling wing and fan,,a 4500ma,,7,2 bat,,,i did break the prop when i did take the shaft aut to grease it,,and i did only have a bigger one, in bronze 2blade one..and did made a wire,,from motor to Shaft,,use steel wool on the boat..to plastic shinny...and polich it with wax....and ready to a test,,,down to the lake it go,,,run reale well..speed up and down fore 15 minuts,,,after that the motor and Esc whas soooo hot...not the bat,,the prop is all to big ,a 430 prop is on the road from UK..
p.S.. is there a place they sell the Baby Bootlegger boat..fore R/c...i like the look of that one...
|Aug 18, 2010, 01:18 PM|
Nice work on the upgrades! Super price too!
I got your email, thanks! The boat looks good. I like that you added a cooling fan to your boat. I was concerned about heat building up so I drilled holes in the factory motor mounts to permit air to get into the fan on the end motor to increase the cooling potential of this fan. I am not really sure why the factory would use a motor mount that enclosed these air intake vents? I like the idea of adding an electric fan and cooling fins. I am not sure of where to find these items here in the US. Perhaps one of the guys on the forum can tell me where I can get a fan and the cooling fins in the US?
In looking at your photos, I noticed the dash gauges/decals and the steering wheel are different from my boat. Interesting!
The new motor sounds very strong, and should put you out in front of the pack. I hope the new prop will resolve the over heating problem you experienced on your first test runs. I will be waiting to see a video of your boat in action with the new motor (SPEED 600 RACE 7,2 V Graupner 6370)
and to hearing how she performed.
In your e-mail you said you were getting an 8" figure of the "Fonz". It will be a little too tall for the boat. One of the other guys on the forum got one like it, but had to do some surgery on it to get it to fit. I attached the photos he posted on how he performed "surgery" on the "Fonz" to get him to fit in the boat. Pretty neat work!
As I mentioned in my message, I found figures that are very close to the right scale without the need for surgery. I have attached some recent photos of the figures. The largest is 7", next 6 3/4" and the girl is 6".
These are made by Matel and are from the WWE action figure collection.
Here in the US they are in most Wal-mart and Toys R Us stores and on line and are very cheap.
Very glad to see and hear about your progress and will be looking for more news from you soon.
|Aug 18, 2010, 03:14 PM|
Hi Bernhard, congratulations on your new electric Chris~Craft!
I would consider adding water cooling to the brush tabs and esc. Also, if there are no openings for hot air to escape you should make an air outlet.
Definitley go with a small prop. The Titan 12T is a high revving motor and so with a smaller prop your engine will work less hard and also propel your boat faster because the motor will be able to spin up the RPM's.
Another way to help it, is too not run it continuously until the battery is weak. Instead, let it stop and just float for awhile. Then drive some more. Also drive at low speeds as well as high speeds. This will also make your run time last longer between battery changes.
|Aug 19, 2010, 12:56 AM|
Thanks..Rick......Great Ide with surgery on the Figure..that i will try...the figure you have fit perfect...the stering wheel and the gauges are from another boat i use to have,,, Have you try Ebay ..RC 540 Motor Alloy Heat Sink & Centre Fan.i have the one in the photo,,just i moved the fan,,..i did get the x430 octura prop...perfect ..run alot better with it,.made allso another flex coupler on my lathe,of,brass ,and solder the flex in,, did try in the lake today...get a littel hot bot , i hope it is ok,maby i wll try 3300ma i read many use that..,,i have a water cooling Esc..so if i get problem i will use that one,,bot it neat extra battery pack in,,and i not shure how to water cool the motor ,yes Kmot...i will run it as you sai..Thanks,,,and take a video to,,
all in all...a reale great boat for a fair price,,...
Got George today.....and did the littel operation on him,,,easy don..fit fine,,did a life ring aut of a wood ring,,here is the flex i did made,,and the antenne wire go up into the flagstaff...
from Ebay usa,,, fan,,,, http://cgi.ebay.com/Aluminum-Motor-H...ts_Accessories
Today 20/8 i whas running it on the lake again...bot after a few minuts,,the esc get real hot...and the boat stop and start ..stop and start,,i try another battery bot the same happens.., i do have a new esc,,,Navy control 535 r...with watter colling,,can take 45a,,,so that one i have in the boat now,,
|Aug 22, 2010, 09:02 AM|
hi..Today i did try the water cooling esc..work perfect,,,now i neat to cool the motor..i think i will this...Cooling Jacket (Product ID: gnd-4197
Silicon water jacket for 600 Size & Feigao 540 Sized Motors.
In Stock: 4)
Keep Your Motors running at Peak Performance by running them "Nice & Cool"! These water jackets allow the circulating water to come in direct contact with the motor casing. This is a much better alternative to a basic cooling coil!
Water Jacket for 600 brushed & Feigao 540 brushless Sized Motors.
Measures 30mm wide.
Fits 35-45mm Diameter Motors.
For motors that have cooling vents, a piece of shrink wrap is provided to cover the motor casing then install the Jacket over it. They come with a combination "hull bottom water pickup/exit fitting" and approximately 15" of tubing.
How to Add Water Jacket
These German made Cooling Jacket Kits are far more efficient then the standard brass or aluminum cooling coils. With the standard brass or aluminum cooling coil, the motor case is cooled by running colder water through the coil that is tightly wrapped around the motor. The coil acts as a heat sick and the water running though it, cools it drawing the heat from the motor housing. This isn't very efficient. With this new style of water jacket, the water that flows through this jacket actually comes in contact with the motor casing, making the motor several degrees cooler then a standard cooling coil. The only negative to using this style of jacket is the higher cost, about $22.00 opposed to the lesser expensive cooling coils that you can make for less then $5.00 or buy for about $10.00-$15.00. But the performance of the water jacket will far outweigh the extra cost, hands down!
Applying the Jacket to a 700 Motor!
This is a pretty straight forward project. The only catch is, you will have to fill in the gap in the torque ring on the 700 size motor (see picture below). The first time I put a jacket on a 700 motor, I used an epoxy to fill the gap. After the epoxy dried I sanded it out and slipped on the jacket. It worked fine expect for a tiny leak.
After ditching the epoxy method, I went to silicon sealant. Its much faster then the epoxy method. What I do now is fill the gap with silicon and slip the jacket on while the silicon is still wet. Here's how its done step by step.
First step is to find out where you would like the entrance & exit holes of the jacket, then mark the motor with a marker.
Remove any stickers from torque ring.
Sand lightly any area that needs silicon.
Next, fill the gap in the torque ring with silicon. Use only enough silicon to fill to the top of the torque ring.
Now slide on the jacket, taking note where you wanted the entrance & exit holes line them up now.
Once its all lined up apply a small bit of silicon where the gap in the torque ring and the jacket meet (see picture below).
Let everything dry for 24 hours.
Remount you motor and if you had cooling before, reattach the pickup and outlet tubing and your off the the Pond to test it out! If you didn't have cooling before and need information on water pickups and outlets check out this page. How to add water pickup/outlets.
And for even more efficiency,
How to add brush cooling to a Motor
The most effective way to cool an electric boat motor is brush cooling. There are different ways to do this. You can use rounded off pieces of brass tubing or straight pieces. The size tubing I use is 5/32OD.
To make the these pieces refer to "How to bend tubing page". Straight pieces of tubing can also be used. The closer to the brushes the better. In the below example picture I am using a 700neo. I use as large piece of tubing, about 1.5 to 1.75 inches long. This way the tubing also acts as a heat sink. The closest I could get to the brushes on this motor is the electrical tabs. On other motors you can solder the brass tubing to the brush hoods, this is even better.
Next you will need to solder the tubes to the tabs (pink arrows). This can be tricky. I like to solder the wires on first, to make sure I have a great connection. Then the diode. Then on the outside of the tabs I solder the brass tubes. Make sure the area of the brass tubes that you are going to solder is sanded & clean. Put a small amount of solder on the outside of the tab. Then put a larger amount on the tubing. Next heat the tab for a second then quickly attach the tubing and heat both pieces. But not to long. Wait to long and the wires will come loose!
This is the finished product after connecting Rc fuel line. This should be plenty to cool this motor.
This motor also has a silicon water jacket. Like a cooling coil, it helps cool the motor casing. But in a better way! The water come in direct contact with the can.
Things to consider when installing motor in boat.
When installing the motor in the boat, plumb from the water pickup to the esc first (if water cooled), then the brushes, then the cooling cool. Connect everything with Rc fuel tubing or larger.
I have seen some people use small wire ties to make sure the tubing doesn't come off. I personally haven't had a problem with it. So I opt for no wire ties.
Since writing this several years ago I have changed how I brush cool a 700 motor. I now use the diode to hold the tubes on. Its makes soldering the tubes easier. And much easier to solder the wire on after without fear of the tubes coming off. Here's a picture.
|Aug 22, 2010, 11:22 AM|
Bernhard, I have a pair of those silicone water jackets on Traxxas Titan motors. Remove the flux ring, makes it easier to install.
Those photos of the cooling pipes on the brush coils is what I was going to recommend. Here is how I do it:
Strip the insulation off some stranded copper wire (automotive type) and save the copper strands for future use.
Cut the brass tubing to length. Either straight or curved.
Place a wood toothpick on the edge of the motor to space the brass tube from touching the motor can, place the brass tube on top of the toothpick, and then use a strand of copper wire to tie the brass tube to the brush tab.
Apply some electronic safe flux, and then solder the brass tube and copper wire together onto the brush tab. Pull out the wood toothpick.
The wire keeps the brass tubes in place when you later solder your power wires to the brush tabs.
|Aug 23, 2010, 01:09 PM|
Did you folks know that Proboat has discontinued this boat!!! I was hoping it would be around for a long time so I could buy another one in the future. I cant understand why they would stop making such a nice looking boat.
About crew, I like what you did, I used a smaller Barbie knockoff that is a gymnast(the arms and legs are positionable) That way she can have her hands on the wheel and sit correctly in the seat. I attached her with a square of velcro under her bottom and cyn. on her hands. On the watercooling, I have a Titan 14.4v Marine motor with built in fan and I've never had any heat issues.
|Aug 23, 2010, 01:20 PM|
Here's a video to show the performhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O8VFru0uKC8ance I get without watercooling.
|Aug 23, 2010, 01:33 PM|
resedn youtube info
Not able to access this??? Do you have less complex address??
Here's a video to show the perfor<object width="480" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/O8VFru0uKC8?fs=1&hl=en_US"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/O8VFru0uKC8?fs=1&hl=en_US" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="385"></embed></object>mance I get without watercooling.
|Aug 23, 2010, 01:37 PM|
Boomer, I bought the Gundert silicone cooling jackets from Offshore Electrics. The colored tubing is fuel line, available in many colors from your LHS or online hobby stores.
|Aug 23, 2010, 02:17 PM|
Thanks for the info!
Not sure if I am going to add water cooling to my CR as it doesn't seem to need it, but it is nice to know how to do it!
Have you been able to determine the differences between this method of cooling the motor, verses the SS tubing I see other 550 motors (see the pic of my MLB) and or compared to using a heat sink and fan?
I have a buddy that has a pistol type temperature devise with a digital read out that is very nefty. You just point at the object to be measured, hold the trigger and it measures the heat of that object. Very nice tool!
I will borrow it some time to take some measurements on my boats to see what kind of actual heat they are generating.
Thank you for the information.
|Aug 23, 2010, 05:12 PM|
A water jacket is immensely more efficient at cooling than a coil of tubing. A fan would be somewhat useful as long as there is open air to vent too. If the motor compartment is sealed water tight, all you end up doing is moving hot air around.
|Aug 23, 2010, 07:14 PM|
Air cooling first steps -
I mentioned before that my first step to maximize cooling with the OEM set up was to drill holes on both the top and bottom factory motor mounts to get the fan access to some air. Then I test fit the heat sink I just picked up, to determine what needs to be trimmed off to get it to fit on top of the motor, like a saddle. Once trimmed to fit, it would be in full contact with the aluminum motor mount, which is in full contact with the motor casing. The heat sink will still permit fresh air to be drawn in to the fan. For a heat sink to provide any heat dissipation, it has to be in contact with the source.
The next picture is a kind of a "what if " I could get it to fit type of thing. If it won't fit in the position shown picture, I can remote mount the fan in a position that would permit it to blow air down across the fins of the heat sink.
As far as make up air, I hope to hollow out the fake vents on the deck of the boat, making them functional, using my Dremel and some precision hole drilling. I have an extra set of all the deck trim, just in case I screw it up. I have done something similar before and it turned out pretty well.
I am not overly concerned about water intrusion but prop boats can experience a random prop shaft or rudder shaft leak, so I addressed that possibility by installing a "RAM boat saver" auto bilge pump. I think I posted a picture of that before but, I'll re-post it for the sake of a new reader not having seen it. If not, water cooling is the next step.
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