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Old Aug 16, 2010, 06:34 AM
Balsa Lover
gupi's Avatar
Vienna, Austria
Joined Jul 2010
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Pete,

I've got a quick question: the plan shows the halves of the elevator being joined by a carbon rod. It doesn't show how exactly you envision this to be done, though. Do you think the rod should be glued to the undersides the elevator halves? Or should i make cut-outs to glue it into? With cut-outs it seems to get a bit close to the slots for the horns.

gupi
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Old Aug 16, 2010, 07:22 AM
Übung macht den Meister..
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Gupi, if your camera is of the digital variety, try setting the white balance for incandescent lighting if you haven't already done so. Either of my digital cams defaults to "auto," but that setting never really does what it ought to, in my opinion, so I change the white balance to suit the predominant lighting falling on the subject.

From the color temperature of your posted pics - very warm - I'd think changing the white balance to "incandescent" (or "tungsten" if the setting is called that...) would be all you need to do.

James
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Old Aug 16, 2010, 08:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deuce View Post
Gupi, if your camera is of the digital variety, try setting the white balance for incandescent lighting if you haven't already done so. Either of my digital cams defaults to "auto," but that setting never really does what it ought to, in my opinion, so I change the white balance to suit the predominant lighting falling on the subject.

From the color temperature of your posted pics - very warm - I'd think changing the white balance to "incandescent" (or "tungsten" if the setting is called that...) would be all you need to do.

James
Or simply adjust the color balance in software..e.g. change red-cyan and blue-yellow balance.
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Old Aug 16, 2010, 08:44 AM
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Norfolk, England
Joined Sep 2001
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gupi,
I inteded the joiner to fit in a groove. It gets close to the horns, but not dangerously so. If you prefer, use a smaller size wire joiner. However, I'm confident that the carbon one will be fine, and the horns secure. Maybe not so on a 3D flier, but certainly on a stooger like this.
In fact, since there are cables to both elevators, there's nothing to prevent the joiner being omitted altogether. I wouldn't use carbon where only one side connected to the servo, far too much risk of the rod twisting.

Pete
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Old Aug 16, 2010, 08:49 AM
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If it were only a colour issue I'd agree with Vinto. However, poor light takes the crispness off the focus. That's not to say the shots aren't useable, just that the first ones were so much nicer.

Pete
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Old Aug 16, 2010, 09:23 AM
Balsa Lover
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Vienna, Austria
Joined Jul 2010
749 Posts
Pete,

Thanks for the clarification on the rod issue. I'll try to do it according to plan. Actually i think that at this size even a wooden joiner will work. That would be easier to glue.

Re: lighting - I totally agree with Pete, the better the light, the better the picture. You can only get so far with Photoshop. I'll do the next photos using better light.

gupi
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Old Aug 17, 2010, 03:00 AM
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Vienna, Austria
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Pete,

Another question: i noticed that the trailing edge of of ribs R9 and R10 seems to be smaller than R11 to R14, while ribs R2 to R8 seem to have the same size. Is that on purpose?

Gupi
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Old Aug 17, 2010, 04:41 AM
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Gupi,
That is deliberate, it's because the basic wing section extends over the ailerons, making the ribs in that area appear to end further from the trailing edge. Therefore, they end at a deeper part of the wing section.
The reasoning behind this is that by making the actual section extend over the aileron, it has the effect of reducing the chord-wise taper of the wing. Hopefully this will also reduce any tip-stall tendencies.

Pete
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Old Aug 17, 2010, 06:05 AM
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Vienna, Austria
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Pete,

That makes sense. Thanks for clarifying this.

Gupi
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Old Aug 18, 2010, 12:50 AM
Balsa Lover
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Vienna, Austria
Joined Jul 2010
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I built the elevator and the wing's leading edge.

Pete,

Two issues here:

1) After looking at the plan and the laser cut elevator again, i still think the grooves for the joiner will be too close to the slots for the horn. I made the joiner a bit shorter because of that. Since i don't like to use carbon here and i don't think that strength will be too critical in the joiner, i switched it so a simple balsa stick. Easier to cut and easier to glue. I hope you forgive me.

2) How do you envision to make room for the elevator joiner in the rudder? Should I cut it out? Or should i move the elevator and stab a bit forward?

gupi
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Old Aug 18, 2010, 02:40 AM
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Norfolk, England
Joined Sep 2001
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Gupi,
I'd suggest trimming a semi-circular cut-out into the rudder to clear the joiner. Of course, your thicker joiner will need a bigger cut-out than the carbon one would have needed.

A balsa joiner? Hmmm. We'll see how that works out. Maybe a piece of cocktail stick might prove stronger.

The build itself is coming along nicely and the model is starting to look actually look like a Fokker FII.

Pete
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Old Aug 18, 2010, 03:37 AM
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Vienna, Austria
Joined Jul 2010
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Pete,

Ok, I'll do the semi-circular. Maybe you want to incorporate the cut-out into the parts file, so that the laser cutter does the work already?

I think the balsa joiner will be ok since i got a similar sized glider where the complete elevator was built with balsa sticks of this size and the horn was only on one side. As you said before, this is no aerobatics machine.

I'm very eager already to get the ship into the air to try it out. I've found a Dutch build log about a scratch build F.II, she looks really nice in the air.

gupi
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Old Aug 18, 2010, 03:50 AM
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Vienna, Austria
Joined Jul 2010
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I don't have the Dutch build log that i meant at hand, I'll post it later. But i found a very nice page about a rubber-powered peanut scale F.II built for a contest:

http://www.zininmijnleven.nl/hobby/s...er/english.htm

gupi
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Last edited by gupi; Aug 18, 2010 at 06:12 AM. Reason: Added image caption.
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Old Aug 18, 2010, 06:00 AM
North East England
Joined Feb 2004
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Looking very nice indeed Gupi.

Regarding that balsa elevator joiner, I'd be inclined to replace it with a strip of hardwood or, as Pete said, a cocktail or kebab stick. I know you don't intend the model to do any aerobatics, but sometimes they do them without our help - especially if a gust of wind takes them
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