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Old Aug 22, 2010, 05:18 AM
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olmod's Avatar
Australia, VIC, Cranbourne East
Joined Apr 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChuckTseeker View Post
can someone please tell me what size the Prop Nut is as i'd like to replace it with a lock nut, also the 2 nuts that hold the folding props on, what size are they? i'm about to do an order from HK so thought i'd get these extra nuts straight up

thanks for ya help

cheers chuck
Prop nut is a 3mm like in GWS slow fly stuff.
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Old Aug 22, 2010, 05:31 AM
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olmod's Avatar
Australia, VIC, Cranbourne East
Joined Apr 2004
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Heres another doosy for you Getting ready to use the wing fastening bolt ,mmm thats not good cant get one in better use a 4mm tap to clear the thread ,crap! the taps caught up in something,a blob of glue! and what makes things worse the jam causes the little white plastic square that holds a not well glued in nut comes away from inside the fuz
so I take the other off and make a 1mm ply mounting plate and glue the nuts and the holders on, all going well mmm so I thought, no no no! now the screw hold downs just dont make it on length ahh stuff it tommorows another day.
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Old Aug 22, 2010, 01:04 PM
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Western Europe 52.7 N 8.9 W
Joined Jul 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChuckTseeker View Post
can someone please tell me what size the Prop Nut is as i'd like to replace it with a lock nut, also the 2 nuts that hold the folding props on, what size are they? i'm about to do an order from HK so thought i'd get these extra nuts straight up

thanks for ya help

cheers chuck
as stated above ..... motor shaft nut is 3mm (metric) ....

the two spinner/folding prop nuts are 2.5mm ....
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Old Aug 22, 2010, 01:14 PM
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Joined Jul 2007
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Well an hour and a half air time today .......

30 minutes on a slope with wrong wind direction so no lift ...... just low power level motor running throughout the flight and very enjoyable it was too ...... 2200 lipo just a little more than half the capacity used ......

A few more guys turned up and we did the cross country walk to a perfect slope ....... 42 mins with zero motor use except during landing ..... I only came down because I thought it was going to rain ...... went up again for a further 18 minutes to complete the hour ...... again mo motor used bar landing ...... Lipo took a touch over 200 mAh to top up ...... very economical flying ......

Only thing I noticed ...... I had to trim a lot of up elevator ...... once that done I could have been up for 8 hours if I wanted too ....
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Old Aug 22, 2010, 03:20 PM
Which way is up?
Ft Myers, Fl
Joined Feb 2003
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Mine came in yesterday........the packing box is nothing to brag about.

I have the typical bent wing tips and will have to reset one of the rudder hinges as it's at an angle. I'll go through all the mechanical fastenings with locktite etc.

I'll probably come up with a second joiner rod for the wings to make it easier to mount the wings. The one joiner rod that came with the plane is loose in the spar tubes so will look into making that a little tighter.

Over all, looks like it'll be a nice plane. Will have to get some coloring on the bottom for vis but will try to get something that resembles coloring schemes of the original planes. I've got a bunch of pictures from google etc.

Jim
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Old Aug 22, 2010, 04:16 PM
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Western Europe 52.7 N 8.9 W
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Originally Posted by jbird View Post
Mine came in yesterday........the packing box is nothing to brag about.

I have the typical bent wing tips and will have to reset one of the rudder hinges as it's at an angle. I'll go through all the mechanical fastenings with locktite etc.

I'll probably come up with a second joiner rod for the wings to make it easier to mount the wings. The one joiner rod that came with the plane is loose in the spar tubes so will look into making that a little tighter.

Over all, looks like it'll be a nice plane. Will have to get some coloring on the bottom for vis but will try to get something that resembles coloring schemes of the original planes. I've got a bunch of pictures from google etc.

Jim
The joiner is 5.5mm in dia ..... now that's not easiest size of material to find over here so I remembered an old trick when trying to find aluminium rods ..... knitting needles ..... the more expensive ones come in coated aluminium and I easily found a good quality 12" pair of 5.5mm in a local store for less than a fiver ($) ....... you need approx 10" to make the joiner ..... problem solved .... (I'm sure there must be a close inch size that would also fit - it doesn't have to be exactly 5.5mm) .....

once you have the two joiners located in the wings twist them slightly to get the correct wing angle ...... now put a couple of pieces of tape across the central join to simply hold everything together ..... presto!, you can connect your servo cables ..... every thing holds together and finish the assembly to the Fuse ..... (don't put any tape over the screw holes!) .....

ps. I put a Cyno hinge between the two existing rudder hinges with foam safe cyno ..... works great .....
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Old Aug 22, 2010, 06:45 PM
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Thanks for that guys, looks like a worrying wait to get our gliders, (ordered 2) hope our wings come undamaged, what happens if the box is damaged and you refuse to take it?

it's such a shame with all that has been written about poor boxing up they would have sorted it by now, these gliders are selling quicker than hot cakes

cheers chuck
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Old Aug 22, 2010, 07:11 PM
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olmod's Avatar
Australia, VIC, Cranbourne East
Joined Apr 2004
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more info'

I found my motor was hesitating quite a bit on starting I tried checking with both programming cards. and found they wont work on this ESC it may a stick program type ,I hate those types I keep losing track of the beeps,
also had to add quite a bit of lead in the bottom of the battery compartment close to the motor ~ 3 oz to get cg on the main spar thats with a 2200 pack.
Manual. http://www.art-tech.cn/english/pdf/M...-Manual-EN.pdf
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Last edited by olmod; Aug 22, 2010 at 11:13 PM.
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Old Aug 22, 2010, 07:57 PM
What could go wrong?
Dayton , Ohio, United States
Joined Sep 2004
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According to Hobby King, they are out of stock again. I ordered mine mine on 8-20-2010 and they had 22 or so in stock. Just waiting for it to show up.
Randy
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Old Aug 22, 2010, 08:33 PM
Which way is up?
Ft Myers, Fl
Joined Feb 2003
1,511 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by hobie14 View Post
The joiner is 5.5mm in dia ..... now that's not easiest size of material to find over here so I remembered an old trick when trying to find aluminium rods ..... knitting needles ..... the more expensive ones come in coated aluminium and I easily found a good quality 12" pair of 5.5mm in a local store for less than a fiver ($) ....... you need approx 10" to make the joiner ..... problem solved .... (I'm sure there must be a close inch size that would also fit - it doesn't have to be exactly 5.5mm) .....

once you have the two joiners located in the wings twist them slightly to get the correct wing angle ...... now put a couple of pieces of tape across the central join to simply hold everything together ..... presto!, you can connect your servo cables ..... every thing holds together and finish the assembly to the Fuse ..... (don't put any tape over the screw holes!) .....

ps. I put a Cyno hinge between the two existing rudder hinges with foam safe cyno ..... works great .....
Hobie,

Thanks for that info. I'm looking forward to getting it ready to fly this week for maiden next weekend and tips on what works is valuable.

Jim
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Old Aug 23, 2010, 07:34 PM
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Long Island, NY
Joined May 2010
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My Minimoa arrived today. Ordered Aug 13 with $27.97 shipping option. Good condition. No visible damage. HK sent a Turnigy TX neckstrap with the package, nice. Looking at the wings, I agree that a second joiner is in order. I don't want to damage anything so can anybody tell me how to pull the prop off? Does the nose cone come loose from the backplate or do I unscrew the blades first?
It looks fantastic.
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Old Aug 23, 2010, 08:05 PM
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Adelaide Plains Australia
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i think if you read back through the thread (it's only 8 pages) you will find that info with photos too, glad to hear yours arrived damage free, fingers crossed for our parcel haha

cheers chuck
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Old Aug 23, 2010, 11:36 PM
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Joined Aug 2010
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Same here

Quote:
Originally Posted by hobie14 View Post
Well an hour and a half air time today .......

30 minutes on a slope with wrong wind direction so no lift ...... just low power level motor running throughout the flight and very enjoyable it was too ...... 2200 lipo just a little more than half the capacity used ......

A few more guys turned up and we did the cross country walk to a perfect slope ....... 42 mins with zero motor use except during landing ..... I only came down because I thought it was going to rain ...... went up again for a further 18 minutes to complete the hour ...... again mo motor used bar landing ...... Lipo took a touch over 200 mAh to top up ...... very economical flying ......

Only thing I noticed ...... I had to trim a lot of up elevator ...... once that done I could have been up for 8 hours if I wanted too ....
I think I have a similar set-up.I'm using a 2200 3S with 50 grams of ballast right behind the motor. When I throttle up, the plane has an aggressive nose up attitude, when not under power is nose heavy..Although now it's trimmed for gliding and I manually compensate with up elevator the climb, I think finding the correct CG is the key because trimming surfaces too much is not ok with a glider. With this set-up, CG is right where the manual said: 54 mm from the leading edge.My battery goes all the way towards the nose.
Let me (us) know what is you final best set-up.
Thx.
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Old Aug 24, 2010, 02:06 AM
Good Better Best quest.
olmod's Avatar
Australia, VIC, Cranbourne East
Joined Apr 2004
10,512 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Galand View Post
My Minimoa arrived today. Ordered Aug 13 with $27.97 shipping option. Good condition. No visible damage. HK sent a Turnigy TX neckstrap with the package, nice. Looking at the wings, I agree that a second joiner is in order. I don't want to damage anything so can anybody tell me how to pull the prop off? Does the nose cone come loose from the backplate or do I unscrew the blades first?
It looks fantastic.
Use the edge of a sharp blade to prise the nose cap off, that gives you access to the prop nut ,the back of the prop hub has 2 flats that key onto the motor hub and need a good pull to get apart.
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Old Aug 24, 2010, 03:56 AM
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Western Europe 52.7 N 8.9 W
Joined Jul 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e2e4 View Post
I think I have a similar set-up.I'm using a 2200 3S with 50 grams of ballast right behind the motor. When I throttle up, the plane has an aggressive nose up attitude, when not under power is nose heavy..Although now it's trimmed for gliding and I manually compensate with up elevator the climb, I think finding the correct CG is the key because trimming surfaces too much is not ok with a glider. With this set-up, CG is right where the manual said: 54 mm from the leading edge.My battery goes all the way towards the nose.
Let me (us) know what is you final best set-up.
Thx.
My setup and findings are almost identical except for pure Gliding on the slopes ....... I've only had two flights with motor completely off ..... 42 minutes and 18 minutes ...... absolutely perfect flying but I did have to trim my Tx to full up elevator to get hands off the elevator flying ....... under moderate power levels for flying (which is the way I have done most of my flying so far) the elevator trim was minimal ....

now full trim on my Tx is not a heck of a lot and I suspect if I set my elevator a little more up at the neutral position and added a little more ballast I might get a minimum trim situation for pure gliding ......

However, I'm playing around with a couple of ideas for switch programming on my Tx, one of which is to give me a switch that can produce a touch of Up Elevator for slope gliding ...... take off normally ..... get some altitude .... power off and turn on 'Up Elevator' switch and go fly for an hour !!!! .....

I'll let you know how I get on ....
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