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To check this I powered on for a couple of minutes and brought it down quickly and put my finger on the rear motor bolts. With the standard motor even with doing the ventilation and cutting down the prop mine is still too hot. Thanks |
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The magnets or block trick would work. It was a pain with one rod putting the wings on but with two rods it is a bit better. I just put some sticky tape across the wings to hold them together before you screw them on. It stops the pipes turning around. It is all right to fly it a couple of times without the motor mods as long as you just put power on for a few seconds just to get it up and then glide around for a while. Ensure you get the c of g right before you try it I still think the tail plane is on the wrong angle which causes it to climb too much. I am sure mine flies better with it packed up a bit at the front but need a few more flights to prove anything one way or the other. I flew my EasyGlider (motor in the nose similar to the Minimoa) twice on the weekend and it seemed to fly much better than the Minimoa. This is with power on. Nothing wrong with the Minimoa as a glider with the motor off. I will continue to work on the motor on problem. Most people consider there is no problem with the power on as they just put the power on to get to a height and glide around. I want it to fly perfectly with the power on for the full flight and go a long distance. Another thing is do not fly without the cockpit on the top. I was leaving it off and putting sticky tape to hold in the LiPo etc in so as to improve the cooling but what happens if you leave it off the wings at the rear can spread apart. All good fun. At least it looks good. |
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Richmond NSW Australia
Joined Mar 2010
32 Posts
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Definitely NO second tube in the wings. Interesting, I'd say the slots in the wings are caused by the mounts in the mould that locate the spar tubes during the moulding process. (Ex-toolmaker. Need to know all the how's and why's... )Will carefully check out Tailplane Incidence, CG and all the other things learnt from you guys on this forum. Thanks, to all of you! ... It's a great looking plane!
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I wondered where all the small holes in the top of the wings were coming from. |
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Stuck the Eagle Tree Logger in the other day and these were the figures i got, with my mods as described earlier in this thread (starts around page 13 goes to about page 20)
285 watts 25 Amps so seeing as i put a 30a ESC in mine and with the cut down prop, i don't think i should have any troubles at all the first red line is just slowly opening the throttle to half way first a pause then to full throttle only a peak of 210 Watts and 18 amps which is more like i fly and the second high peak red line is full throttle from off which produced the high Watts/amps but as you can see held at full throttle the watts evened outcheers chuck |
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Barossa Valley Sth Aust
Joined Sep 2009
11 Posts
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Galand's post (294) will cause me to search thro' all my packaging to try to find my missing tailplane bolts which I didn't know existed. I was preparing to use M3x50mm caphead screws, but would much prefer the nylon weight-wise. One of my wing bolt holding plates with the nut came adrift, had to be glued back into position (pain in the Khyber Pass). Have done all the cooling and hinge loosening mods as discussed here. For the RX am going to try a Spectrum compatible Orange 6 ch. with the with the new satellite.
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Who needs elevator mixing to stop any steep climb with power on?
Anyone tried a co-pilot which should keep everything level and no more problems? This is what it does at the end of the video for those who have not seen the co-pilots.
Good for beginners and FPV to return to base when radio gets out of range. Hopefully it will be good. |
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