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Old Sep 09, 2012, 06:43 AM
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yorkshire UK
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Had a couple of hours this morn with blaster b4 the footballers arrived to spoil my fun, and the wind had just started coming up hill and thermals forming too-never mind I 'll try again later.
Took the time to take spitty apart and found a wire right on motor had broken- managed to solder it together and it's working but or how long I don't know.
A new motor would be cheap but getting the mount off and fitting another is the time taker.

TRied another blaster dlg after lunch but the winds were so strong and gusty that I very nearly lost it-even carrying it home it was getting blown out of my hand almost.

Will try spitty out later when winds die down cause thats when it looks best.


Note:- took spity just b4 it was getting dark as winds seemed to die down and motor held up ok for 1 and a bit flights b4 winds got up and darkness fell lol.

Back to windy all week now but hopefully some more flying weather will arrive soon.
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Old Sep 14, 2012, 12:23 PM
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United States, NC, Richlands
Joined Jun 2011
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Finally had some time to get into the nose of my Mm & assess the damage -- not as bad as I thought! Others experiencing the mount-melt have doubtless seen the same thing - the 3 mounting screws melting elongation holes thru the red plastic 'base'. Just looking inside before taking it apart, I thought the nylon-ish looking 'washer' thingys were the mount, but of course saw there were 2 of 'em, fore & aft of the red base part - which I fully suspect in some small corner of some Chinee Enginearing Dept's dreams were supposed to pass as "insulation". The good news is, those 2 weren't harmed. Should be a fairly simple process of making a plywood disc to epoxy into the space I'll create by cutting away the center of the red mount, prolly melting it away with a soldering iron. The wooden disc should provide all the insulation needed to prevent any recurrance. Just hoping the 3 mounting screws will be long enough to reach thru to the motor & anchor it well, given the thicker plywood.

One thing I've gotta decide tho. I'm 95% sure I'll eventually replace the stock motor, so rather than epoxy the plywood onto the red plastic surrounds, I'm thinking to mount the disc to the plastic with screws, which should make swapout much easier & less destructive than having to break loose any epoxy, if & when that day comes. Anyone care to share their meltdown fix details?

One other note. Tiny pieces of red plastic were all over everything up in the nose - including the windings & rear of the motor itself. So hot it kind've fused itself into the foam up there - took quite a bit of brushing & wiping & blowng to get it all out. In checking the motor for damage while I had it out, I noticed a strange phenomenum. At very lowest throttle settings - actually you can't just advance throttle & get it 'there' but hafta go up to like, mid-throttle & back it down slowly to 'idling' speed....but when it's running at its slowest it runs very rough. Sounds awful too. Can someone try this on theirs & share the results please? I'm wondering if maybe some of those plasic shards might've got inside where I can't see 'em & be playing havoc with the innards.

Thanx guys.

[Addendum:] Further analysis opens a new hypothesis. I now believe that, as the motor got hot it first elongated the mounting holes in the red plastic a bit. As progressive motor stops & starts ensued, the screws' threading were actually chipping away at the red plastic as they 'slammed' back & forth with the torque effects of power & braking (which I had set on the ESC) - effects more & more pronounced as the holes (1) gradually elongated, & (2) the screws became looser & looser as a result.

I would even surmise that at some point the onset of melting (definite signs of) probably during an early stage of the motor's 'life', likely led to the screws being in effect loosened, and their 'chipping away' eventually led to the demise. Further evidenced by the fact I was taking care NOT to overextend the motor during the flight in which it broke down. Analysis borne of solid state, rather than melted, of the micro-particle dust removed from the motor compartment & motor itself.

Check those mounting screws, kiddies. Standard pre-flight!
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Old Sep 14, 2012, 11:14 PM
Feeling the THRALL
Jackson Stone's Avatar
USA, CO, Parker
Joined Dec 2009
816 Posts
Starhopper,

Here's my suggestion: slice off the nose of the Minimoa, cut away any remaining red plastic, install a plywood firewall, attach the motor of your choice, tape the nose back in place, go have fun.

If there are any problems you have easy access to the motor. If not, the plane looks great and flies wonderfully well.

Regards,

Jackson
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Old Sep 15, 2012, 03:56 AM
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yorkshire UK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jackson Stone View Post
Starhopper,

Here's my suggestion: slice off the nose of the Minimoa, cut away any remaining red plastic, install a plywood firewall, attach the motor of your choice, tape the nose back in place, go have fun.

If there are any problems you have easy access to the motor. If not, the plane looks great and flies wonderfully well.

Regards,

Jackson
Did you glue it on after everything was OK or just leave it taped?
I suppose the tape will stick well to the plastic.
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Old Sep 15, 2012, 07:56 AM
Feeling the THRALL
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USA, CO, Parker
Joined Dec 2009
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I use white electrical tape to hold the nose piece on. Have never had a problem and used this approach on three aircraft.

Jackson
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Old Sep 15, 2012, 09:04 AM
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United States, NC, Richlands
Joined Jun 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jackson Stone View Post
Starhopper,

Here's my suggestion: slice off the nose of the Minimoa, ...Jackson
Believe me I've considered that, as it would make the whole job so much easier. But for the aesthetics, I just can't bring myself to do that.
If I do, it would be only as a last resort.

With patience & care, I believe I have room to work from the rear ie thru the cockpit - best way of getting a sufficient diameter firewall past that smaller opening of the fuse front end. I've made a composite photo 'n sketch of my plan of attack (att'd below) - should be self-explanatory but basically this avoids use of epoxy (&c) so, if I decide later to install a beefier motor it'll be a simple matter of removing the three silver 'bolts', then cutting away all remaining red plastic & installing a permanent firewall for the new power plant....spaced properly from the front opening, et al.

Related thoughts:
• Where I indicate 'silver bolts' above will actually be the smallest (pan head #2's?) machine screws I can find, secured with nuts; shake-proof type if possible.
• Not re-using the two mica or nylon "insulators" compensates for thicker plywood vis-a-vis original mounting screws 'reaching'. If short, can countersink.
• They will be handy however, for use as a template to position mounting holes on the ply-disc!
• As it turns out, the motor is just fine! This plan will allow me to keep using it for now - prolly use in a slow-flyer scratchie later.
• 'Back burnering' the replacement motor gives me time to think out what best upgrade motor to use; wait for sale pricing, that sorta thing.
• Disc thickness & placement will (should) help close the gap behind spinner backplate.
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Old Sep 15, 2012, 09:58 AM
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Galand's Avatar
Long Island, NY
Joined May 2010
1,539 Posts
Starhopper,
Did you look at these options?
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1166
and this one by Olmod:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=480
and
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=482
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Old Sep 15, 2012, 11:31 AM
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United States, NC, Richlands
Joined Jun 2011
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I remem seein' them on my original thread scan-thru's Galan, but didn't consider 'em here.
Oddly, I don't have a single X-mount at my disposal at present, but will have several in about a month. (About to re-stock the shop with big order of goodies in a couple more weeks.) The PVC pipe part; have seen tha tmethod used on other planes too, but don't have a lathe to turn it down nor a belt sander. Too, looks like both involve alternate motors, which I also don't have yet, having not worked out which one I want. My primary goal for now is to re-use as much of the original gear as possible - keep it stock but beef things up a bit. I'm pretty set on using the plywood washer method I scratched in up there - unless someone comes up with something better, using stuff I already have.

I do appreciate your taking the time & effort, anyway - thanks!
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Old Sep 15, 2012, 02:13 PM
Feeling the THRALL
Jackson Stone's Avatar
USA, CO, Parker
Joined Dec 2009
816 Posts
Starhopper,

Looks to me as though you have come up with a creative and elegant solution. Most importantly, you have the passion to see your solution implemented. That is one of the best aspects of this hobby IMHO: the opportunity to do creative problem-solving and bring those solutions to fruition. Very rewarding stuff.

Please keep us posted on your progress. Here's hoping your solution works and lasts a long time.

Regards,

Jackson
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Old Sep 15, 2012, 05:13 PM
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Thanx Jax - appreciate the kind words.
Had hoped to have 'er back in the sky tomorrow, but see that ain't happenin'. Alas.

Hey - have any of you guys got JR 9303/9503 Tx or something along that line you're using with the Mm??
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Old Sep 15, 2012, 06:32 PM
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StarHopper: Re your post 2166....What will be the dia. & thickness of your wood washer? I'm looking @ these 1/4 x 3/32" Ply Fender Washer 12 pack http://www.radicalrc.com/category/Fs...ims-319/rec/48. Am I close?
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Old Sep 16, 2012, 08:31 AM
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United States, NC, Richlands
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NorCal View Post
... Am I close?
I don't think so, NC. Re-read the specs:
"Use ... applications ... where a softer washer is often desired. Use for shimming ...anyplace fine thickness adjustment is needed."
Those are only 1 to 3/64" thick - check that on a ruler. Most rulers have 1/16" graduations. Slice one of those graduations in half, then slice that in half again: 1/64!

My material will be 1/8" birch plywood. My process will be to scribe a circle with compass onto paper, using the OD of the Mm's nylon insulator washers for starters, cut out the paper disc & slip it inside for trial fitting.

Once I have the best OD, I'll use a Forstner bit
to cut next larger size disc from a birch sheet, & sand its OD down to fit snugly. Next, again using the insulator disc for a template, mark the center & mounting screw holes, & drill those out, along with the outer disc-mounting 'bolt' (#2 pan head machine screws) holes. Finally, a good painting with couple coats of thin CA to harden everything up, should be as tuff as I'll need it.

I'll assemble the motor onto the wood disc (outside the plane), slip that assembly in thru the cockpit & position against the back of the 3 red plastic tabs where I've pre-drilled matching holes for the #2 screws, apply the shake-proof nuts & voila!

Finally, re-installing the folding prop assy -- the spacing might mean the spinner backing plate sits too close (contacts) the fuselage front opening, in which case I'll shim it forward with metal (or nylon) washers on the motor output shaft. Should be good to go!

At least, that's plan 'A'! Lord only knows what problems might pop up -- if there's trouble around it'll find me, most assuredly! Plan 'B' involves the magical properties of epoxy & the Later Power of the Grand Dremel Rectification!
But one way or t'other, this Mini is gonna fly some Moa!!
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Old Sep 16, 2012, 03:13 PM
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United States, IN, Bloomington
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SH,
How do you use a Forstner bit to cut a disc? Did I miss something?
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Old Sep 16, 2012, 11:35 PM
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United States, NC, Richlands
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Only 1/8 thick material. The set I have, the outer 'teeth' kiss the wood first. If the inner 'shavers' come into play, flip the board over & kiss from the other side, & finish with an X-Acto if neccessary. Hole saw could be used, but the set I have are flimsy crap. Just a quick way for me to cut a neat-ish disk.

That picture I 'borrowed' isn't like mine; just used it for conveniently small size image.

OH, btw....our club's been asked to set up a static display for the County Fair which starts here Tuesday evening. I'm gonna have the 'Mm' sittin' proud & pretty!
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Old Sep 17, 2012, 12:21 AM
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A bit o' funny:
Thought it might add a touch of class to change my Mm's name (the nose decal) from 'Shiny Girl' to Old English text, & in German. Online translator says:
"Glänzend Mädchen"

Glanz end? Mmmmmmmm.....I theenk mebbe not!
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