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Old Aug 29, 2010, 07:19 AM
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Australia, VIC, Cranbourne East
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Nothing a little gorilla fast cure wont fix.
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Old Aug 29, 2010, 08:27 AM
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Pasir Ris, Singapore
Joined Jan 2008
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Originally Posted by olmod View Post
Nothing a little gorilla fast cure wont fix.
it's not the glue, it's the pair of wings stuck up in a tree a few levels high. It's not coming down, I am not climbing up.

Maybe next flying outing, I will check to see if it came down. Who knows?

As such, my time with the Minimoa is at a conclusion.

As for the wingtip damage, guys, I sent an email straight to Hobbyking with photos within the week I received the package. I have also given their Customer Service a link to our thread here for their info. Not to mention several of you have post your comments in the HobbyKing reviews.

It's a nice plane really, just need some changes to the parts, a re-think on the packaging.
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Old Aug 29, 2010, 10:31 AM
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Coming back from 1 week holiday, and you guys write 7 pages!

I notice nobody has put up pics of the chinabell itself:
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Last edited by Aender69; Aug 29, 2010 at 11:33 AM.
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Old Aug 29, 2010, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Jack_Chen View Post
Hi Guys, Been flying my minimoa with different battery combinations. You definitely will want to swap out the motor with something else. Maybe put in a different motor/esc combination. Also put in a different spinner/props. Alloy ones are good.

I put in a 3000mAh 3S Lipo considering that the extra weight might help to offset the nose weight.

In the end, I have to add a ring of weights around the nose to balance it out. It still fly alright though. In the most recent flights, the glider was still being pushed around by the wind due to the large wings. You need to give a lot more power to the motor and the plane is a little light still.

It lost power overhead on my last flight, the motor wasn't responding, not sure if it was overheat or radio glitch. I didn't have enough power to outrun the wind and got pushed to the top of a tree.

Wings came apart and remained up there. Body fell to the ground. Broke into clean halves.
Sorry to hear of your troubles ....

Did you tighten/thread lock the two grub screws via the two holes in the wall of the Fuse nose? ..... the motor appears to have gone off to one side and been rubbing on the inside of the fuse .....



I'm mystified by the ballast your adding ..... my own never needed more than 40g mounted at the front of the canopy ...... this with a 2200 3 cell lipo weighing 203g .......
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Old Aug 29, 2010, 11:39 AM
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I made those pictures today as I was fiddling around, checking the hardware and reinstalling the rx. I had to pull out the Assan receiver (to put it in my Xeno) before going on vacation as I couldn't fly in France with 35 mhz.

It makes me sad to read all those bad news from rc-ers which get their plane(s) crushed end/or bent.

I suppose this plane was a huge success, and the factory/boxing company ran out of decent sized boxes. They then must simply have tried to stuff it into smaller and smaller boxes. It's a shame...

Or Art-Tech sells all their rejects from fabrication to HK, who sell it on without further checking....
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Old Aug 29, 2010, 11:49 AM
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jack ..... in your photo below I can see that if you get a long rope ...... tie a steel weight on one end and throw it over the branches just to the left of the wings ....... you can see a clear area just off the nearest vertical tree trunk ...... now with the rope going up from ground level and back down again a couple of guys on the ends of the rope should be able to shake the wings free ....... I wouldn't leave the wings up there ....

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Old Aug 29, 2010, 11:52 AM
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Hobie, the scratching came from the motor wanting to commit suicide by jumping of a plane . I suppose that one grub screw wasn't fixed firmly in factory (my fault for not checking) and the other vibrated itself loose after about 15 Minutes of motor time.

Since, I have enlarged the grub-screw holes to 8 mm and put in two more for cooling.

Ballast Thing: I just put in about 40 grams once in high wind (4 bft).

In normal low-wind conditions, my 3S 2200 mah Lipo all the way up front (180 grams) allows to achieve the cg at a certain spot so that the plane pumps very lightly (is that called porpoising?) when slowed down. That way you notice thermals much easier.

And it thermals cool!!!
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Old Aug 29, 2010, 11:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aender69 View Post
I made those pictures today as I was fiddling around, checking the hardware and reinstalling the rx. I had to pull out the Assan receiver (to put it in my Xeno) before going on vacation as I couldn't fly in France with 35 mhz.

It makes me sad to read all those bad news from rc-ers which get their plane(s) crushed end/or bent.

I suppose this plane was a huge success, and the factory/boxing company ran out of decent sized boxes. They then must simply have tried to stuff it into smaller and smaller boxes. It's a shame...

Or Art-Tech sells all their rejects from fabrication to HK, who sell it on without further checking....
There is only one way to ensure the kit survives posting every time and that is to fit a polystyrene foam box inside the cardboard box ...... Multiplex do it ...... Parkzone do it ..... and many more manufacturers ..... even hobby King do it on some kits ..... it will add very little to the weight but there will be some extra cost ....

ps. thankfully my kit arrived safely ..... a little tip damage but not much and easily repaired .....
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Old Aug 29, 2010, 12:05 PM
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Sorry Aender69 ...... too many posts coming in and I got the photos/comments from Jack and you mixed up ......
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Old Aug 29, 2010, 05:02 PM
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Joined Jan 2004
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If you are looking for a fairly easy motor swap, the Rimfire 400 may be the ticket. It's a close "drop-in" replacement. Weight is almost identical, just a couple grams difference. The only mods needed is to drill out the three mounting holes to accept 3mm (the Rimfire lines up perfect and you will need to be bolt the motor on through the battery compartment) and drill out the stock yoke to 5mm to accept the "bolt-on" adapter supplied the with the motor. Not the "cheapest" swap, but if you have one laying around it's a good fit.

Initial static test..

3 cell lipo....180watts at 15 amps with the stock prop

Haven't flown it yet, but the numbers look acceptable
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Old Aug 29, 2010, 05:08 PM
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I got my kit several weeks ago, and after going through several emails with Hobby King trying to get the "missing" wing support rod, I too finally figured out that they only expect you to use one. Just for my peace of mind, I made a second one using a 12 inch aluminum rod from K&B and an aluminum tube slid over it to make up the needed diameter. Just bent it in a vice and it works fine. Probably not as strong as the original, but better than the "second" one supplied!

Also, I have been concerned about the motor mount melting/overheating issues, so I did a little research on it. I was a little suspect about the size of the prop and the use of an 11.1 volt battery - sounded like a potential problem there. The motor is rated at 80 watts, which meant that there wasn't much room for current at that voltage.

I did some tests with my watt meter, and this is what I found. Using a 7.4 volt 2200 mah battery resulted in 62 watts. That was at 8.5 amps.

Using a 11.1 volt battery 2200 mah (same brand of battery, both brand new) resulted in 140 watts (Yikes!) at 13.0 amps. In my opinion, that is way too much power for that motor and I can understand the overheating issues.

I didn't have time to set up my thrust stand, so I can't give exact numbers on that. I much prefer to use thrust values over watts in determining motor/prop suitability, so I am disappointed that I cannot give those values. I can say subjectively that the power from the 7.4 volt battery looked fine but probably on the mild side (I would expect a gently climb to altitude) but that the power from the 11.1 volt battery should be rather brisk if not downright sporty, as already mentioned earlier. But expect s short motor/motor mount life if you go that way.

By the way, I also noticed that the brake was set to "active" on my stock motor controller, in case anybody was concerned about that.

I really do like the looks of the plane - looking forward to flying it soon!
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Old Aug 29, 2010, 10:44 PM
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Long Island, NY
Joined May 2010
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@ Hobie14 and Aender69.
Thanks for the explanations and pictures on removing the mpotor. On my Minimoa there seems to be only one opening to get to the grub screw. From the look of the Aender pictures it should be possible to just loosen the grub screw and pull out the motor/prop assy. Is that right?
I finished assembling and ran a watt meter with a Moxie 3S1P 2200mAh 30C battery charged only at 10.30v (did not have time to recharge fully). I got a peak of 9.55v and 16.39A for 155.1 watts.
As Goldenuts above says: that's too much.
Will drop down to a big two cell plus lead, which I hate.
Or change the motor as per DougKierc.
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Old Aug 29, 2010, 11:11 PM
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Adelaide Plains Australia
Joined Dec 2007
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ok guys heres a few photos of the parts, i took mine apart to make sure everything goes back together tight

i think HK must just be buying the foam and the then putting all the electronics in themselves as all the innards are Hobby King, so the bent/broken wings "ARE" happening in house and is the fault of staff not doing their jobs, wheres the Boss?

cheers chuck

PS Just looking for this motor on the HK web page and i can't find it? so i wonder what it really is? it has DST-1200 KV 053#6/28 ``0 on the wire covering coming out of the motor?
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Old Aug 30, 2010, 01:03 AM
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Maybe packaging is outsourced?
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Old Aug 30, 2010, 01:39 AM
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Pasir Ris, Singapore
Joined Jan 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hobie14 View Post
Sorry to hear of your troubles ....

Did you tighten/thread lock the two grub screws via the two holes in the wall of the Fuse nose? ..... the motor appears to have gone off to one side and been rubbing on the inside of the fuse .....



I'm mystified by the ballast your adding ..... my own never needed more than 40g mounted at the front of the canopy ...... this with a 2200 3 cell lipo weighing 203g .......
That is not a picture of my motor. The spinner did not come loose on my plane. In fact, the spinner is in great condition even after falling from the tree.

As for nose weights, I guess maybe it's the position of my battery. I tried pushing it all the way front but still it isn't enough.


Quote:
Originally Posted by hobie14 View Post
jack ..... in your photo below I can see that if you get a long rope ...... tie a steel weight on one end and throw it over the branches just to the left of the wings ....... you can see a clear area just off the nearest vertical tree trunk ...... now with the rope going up from ground level and back down again a couple of guys on the ends of the rope should be able to shake the wings free ....... I wouldn't leave the wings up there ....

It's not a small tree, it's pretty high up. 3 or 4 levels up at least. I am hoping for a windy thunderstorm to shake it loose.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ChuckTseeker View Post
ok guys heres a few photos of the parts, i took mine apart to make sure everything goes back together tight

i think HK must just be buying the foam and the then putting all the electronics in themselves as all the innards are Hobby King, so the bent/broken wings "ARE" happening in house and is the fault of staff not doing their jobs, wheres the Boss?

cheers chuck

PS Just looking for this motor on the HK web page and i can't find it? so i wonder what it really is? it has DST-1200 KV 053#6/28 ``0 on the wire covering coming out of the motor?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aender69 View Post
Maybe packaging is outsourced?
I don't think HK are doing the assembly. More like Art-tech is an OEM for a lot other businesses and is commissioned by HK for this product. In any case, I hope HK will swap out the motor with something better.
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