Here are a few pics of a Guillows T-28 I built.

Used all the kit wood except one fuselage side. One of the sides was genuine balsa wood and the other side was hard as a rock and very stiff. There is no way to get a straight fuselage if the wood of both sides are not closely matched in stiffness.

Problem is the kit wood is 1/20th sheet, not something I have laying around.
So I block sanded 1/16th sheet until the thickness was very close to the kit wood and cut a new side.

*Videos Here*
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...4#post15914926

The lower nose with landing gear is the equipment hatch. It's held closed by a pair of 3mm magnets.

The wheels are an adaptation of the larger WWI aircraft wheels.

The 'rim' consists of 2 layers of 3/32nd balsa laminated with the grain crossed at 90 deg.
The disk was screwed onto my wheel turning mandrel and spun in the Dremel. It was turned round then a groove cut by holding a small sanding drum against the spinning disk to form the 'U' shaped rim.

The outside disk is cut from 1/64th ply, turned round and glued onto the balsa disk sandwich. An aluminum tube bushing is glued into the hole to complete the rim.

A ring of 1/4" neoprene cord is glued up and installed onto the rim to complete the wheel.

The wheel pictured is 5/8" diameter, about as small as I can go with 1/4" cord.

Glenn

The cockpit details are from the kit. The split canopy was a bit of a pain but canopy glue and tape made a seam that doesn't look too bad.

Anybody? maybe I posted in the wrong forum.

Glenn

Looks great! What is the AUW and has it flown, yet?

The model was covered with the kit tissue, water shrunk and painted with two coats of genuine Aerogloss clear dope.(remember that stuff?)

The finish is one light coat of Model Master Acryl airbrushed on.
Glenn

Thanks UNGN.
Flight info coming.
BTW, love the Super Stock AMX avatar.

Glenn

gorgeous!!

The kit decals are US Air Force. Wanted to do a Navy scheme.
Scanned the kit decals and reduced the size of the stars and bars.

Created the text using wordpad then printed them out on clear water slide decal paper.

After the decals had cured for a few days the entire model was given a light coat of WBPU sprayed through the airbrush.

Tried spraying the WBPU straight from the can without thinning. Had to turn the air pressure up to 35psi and it worked great.

Glenn

This is a very good Trojan conversion. The GWS 5043 will hit a 110 mAH cell pretty hard, but provides a big speed and power boost over the original Sukhoi prop. To get the best of both worlds, pick up an UM P-51D prop (no need to put on the big styrofoam spinner) or the prop from a new Sukhoi (the XP), a prop for the UM 4-Site, or the HZ Champ, which all use a 5.25"x2.75" prop. Or a GWS 5030 if you want to go the GWS route.

This looks AMAZING! good job!

Cheers, Dill

Glenn,

Looks good! You're keeping me crawling (.....ever.....so....slowly....) along with my build. Love the paint job. Any idea of the added weight? Also, have you compared spraying Krylon clear acrylic to the WBPU?

-PC49

Thanks guys.

Weight ready to fly with a 110 cell is 40 grams, not too bad.

Ensign Jimmy,
If the cut down Sukhoi prop doesn't have enough pitch, I'll try the P-51 prop.
Didn't know about the Champ prop, had one in my hand today at the lhs today too. Shoulda snagged it.

PC49, I would be afraid to spray Krylon lacquer over the acrylic color without some serious testing first. My experience is that makes for a nice wrinkle finish!

Flight report tomorrow.

Glenn

Originally Posted by glewis

Thanks guys.

Weight ready to fly with a 110 cell is 40 grams, not too bad.

Ensign Jimmy,
If the cut down Sukhoi prop doesn't have enough pitch, I'll try the P-51 prop.
Didn't know about the Champ prop, had one in my hand today at the lhs today too. Shoulda snagged it.

PC49, I would be afraid to spray Krylon lacquer over the acrylic color without some serious testing first. My experience is that makes for a nice wrinkle finish!

Flight report tomorrow.

Glenn

The weight is perfect, but I wouldn't use a 110. It's not going to fly very long. A Mustang 120 .5 Watt is minimum that will work. Any of the 110's I have (all of my sukhoi batteries) will conk out on the initial climb out with a Mustang Motor. They just don't have enough C's. Turnigy 160's are the best bang for the Buck.

4 site props are the best deal: 2 for $3.50, next is a Champ prop, then the Mustang Prop.

Originally Posted by UNGN

...I wouldn't use a 110. It's not going to fly very long. A Mustang 120 .5 Watt is minimum that will work. Any of the 110's I have (all of my sukhoi batteries) will conk out on the initial climb out with a Mustang Motor. They just don't have enough C's.

I have to agree here. I get the same results.

Thanks for the answers Glenn. She's a beaut...

-PC49