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Old Aug 19, 2010, 05:25 PM
nja
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Vero Beach, Florida USA
Joined Aug 2010
162 Posts
Hello Rich,

Very NICE. A quick question, on this design, does the rotor spin clockwise like the blades suggest or are the blades you used for just for mock-up?

Thanks,

Nils
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Old Aug 19, 2010, 05:49 PM
It was a GLITCH! Honestly!
SafeLandings's Avatar
Stourport on Severn ,Worcestershire, United Kingdom
Joined Dec 2007
4,844 Posts
Nils,
Well spotted...these are for mock up only mate.

I wanted to see what the differences were a while back with identical blades but one set clockwise rotation and the other Anti clockwise rotation. These where the clockwise blades and have been lying around since!
The other blades are on my Nellie and will be removed to try this model.
But I will make a new set of blades

Regards

Rich
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Old Aug 19, 2010, 05:54 PM
AND FOR MY NEXT TRICK....!
jodini's Avatar
Omaha Millard, Nebraska, United States
Joined Sep 2004
4,062 Posts
Looks great Rich. I like the little tail plane. If you look at some of those real gyrocopters, they have little elevator stabs at that location....so compared to them, it looks perfect!

Loving the videos! Very educational. Many ways to skin a cat, and I like your skinning techniques!
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Old Aug 20, 2010, 02:08 AM
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Elizabeth South Australia 5113
Joined Nov 2005
1,752 Posts
G'Day Rich
It does look a tad small ,but I am sure you can work it out.
I fly a couple of small pusher models ,a Minimum and a scale Hornet. The Minimum has a lot larger tailplane and although most of my flying is slow ,low and close ,when they get at a distance ,the Minimum is far easier to see cos of the tailplane .If I had to rebuild the Hornet ,I think I would enlarge tailplane. Yes your tube does seem to work OK.
I tried it today And under load it does stretch a little and open a small gap between the two pipe ends,but I think it would only take a click of elevator to fix it,no big problem.
Chris..........
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Old Aug 21, 2010, 10:25 AM
It was a GLITCH! Honestly!
SafeLandings's Avatar
Stourport on Severn ,Worcestershire, United Kingdom
Joined Dec 2007
4,844 Posts
Ok...I have increased the size of the tailplane a tad, but not a lot.

The head has two plates, the top triangular flexi plate 'T1' which is made from .8mm (1/32") fibre glass sheet and the circular 'T2' made from 1.5mm Glass Fibre sheet. H2 is the 'anti strike plate' which stops the blades from flapping down and taking out tailplanes
T1 is easy to cut out using scissors and is finished off with a file and sand paper, all holes are 3mm. T2 is roughly cut out with a coping saw (or what ever you have?) again filed to the outer diameter. The hole in the centre is 3mm and an M3 nut and bolt threaded through it. This was then put into the chuck of my pillar drill, spun up and lightly sanded to make sure it is 'bang on' and runs true.
The gearbox is really easy to get apart. First remove the outer 'runner', the grub screw is undone and if you hold it in your hand and tap the shaft it just knocks off. Pull the shaft out aswell and remove the top bearing.
Next remove the bottom mount by undoing the grub screw and again tapping it off. The armature is then lightly gripped in vice jaws and a suitable pressing out tool used to press it out ...OK... a bolt and hammer! but be carefull
The mount can be replace along with the top bearing. The replacement shaft I have used is an M3 40mm socket cap screw with a plain shank and 18mm of thread. An upturned M3 nyloc nut was screwed from the top (when the shaft is inserted from the bottom) until I could just move the shaft up and down slightly. Be carefull not to tighten it fully as this will knacker your bearings
A washer is dropped on top of the nyloc nut (even better is a 3mm repair washer!) and T1/T2 fitted on top of these. These are captivated with another washer and nyloc nut on the very top....job done!

One thing you may have to do is file the bottom of the socket cap screw (used as the shaft) to give clearance with the head plate M4 nut. It all depends on the size of M4 nut you get hold of.


Regards Rich
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Old Aug 21, 2010, 10:36 AM
It was a GLITCH! Honestly!
SafeLandings's Avatar
Stourport on Severn ,Worcestershire, United Kingdom
Joined Dec 2007
4,844 Posts
Sheet 7


Useless piece of information, but my 9 year old son has taken a bit of interest in the drawing. He drew sheet 7 and also pulled me up on my spelling mistakes!!!!!
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Old Aug 21, 2010, 01:22 PM
It was a GLITCH! Honestly!
SafeLandings's Avatar
Stourport on Severn ,Worcestershire, United Kingdom
Joined Dec 2007
4,844 Posts
I really don't know whether this is of interest or helpful but I have covered the fuselage this afternoon.
I have used World Models Ligh-Tex because it is a lighter covering and is far superior to solar film and you get lots on the roll.

http://www.stevewebb.co.uk/index.php...&area=COVERING

I added a cooling hole on the underside before I lightly sanded the whole lot.

Anyway here are a few photos of the order that I have covered it in.


Regards
Rich
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Old Aug 21, 2010, 04:42 PM
SB-28 UK Display Pilot
GeeW's Avatar
ENGLAND
Joined Jul 2001
2,466 Posts
I was expecting at least an x (x being a small number) out of 10 mark from your son on sheet 7 for your spelling efforts.
I would of course give at least 10/10 for effort!

Gordon
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Old Aug 22, 2010, 01:48 PM
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Mud Duck Bill's Avatar
Up State New York , USA
Joined Mar 2009
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Rich :
Very complete I am saving everything for a later date, time is all planed out for now, Up coming wedding and such. Still I have time to check up on you from time to time

Regards Bill
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Old Aug 22, 2010, 04:10 PM
It was a GLITCH! Honestly!
SafeLandings's Avatar
Stourport on Severn ,Worcestershire, United Kingdom
Joined Dec 2007
4,844 Posts
Cheers Gordon..my spelling is not the greatest

Hope the wedding goes well Bill


Next I cut out the tailplane components from 6mm depron, the edges were rounded with sand paper. At the bottom of the fin is sanded a 6mm half moon the same way as the mast mount was done. The fin and tailplane slot together, these were epoxied together making sure they are square. The control arm was made up from .8mm GF sheet and epoxied into the marked slot on the rudder. I have used 3 small hinges made from mylar strip, the fin and rudder were then slotted and the hinges are epoxied into there slots.
On my other 'SPYROS' I simply glued the fin onto the carbon boom, I was going to do it this way then suddenly thought POP BOTTLE!!. I made up a small mould from 6mm birch ply, cut a piece of plastic from a bottle and clamped it into the vice and applied the hot gun! I ended up with a nice piece of 'U' section which I glued to the rear of the boom. The fin was then glued into this and it is a surprisingly strong joint!!
Next up was the boom locater which is made using the template from 3mm lite ply. This serves 2 functions, first it holds the boom in place and makes it removable. Secondly you will see 2 small holes on the bottom of it, these are guides for the control wires to the rudder
This is epoxied into position with the boom pushed fully in to its locating hole. When dry the tailplane can be position vertical and a pilot hole drilled for the single mounting screw. There is more than enough 'meat' behind the bulk head because this is where the mast support is located
I have also covered and added a few markings (I have a PDF of these that I will upload), the rudder is stripey but each side is different colours to help with orientation.
Now everything is covered I epoxied the UC legs into their location holes, lots of epoxy was used pushing it into the end of the carbon tubes. This acts like a slug and adds strength around the joint. more epoxy was applied through the servo holes to all the matting surfaces.

Hopefully I will test fly it in the next few days, I will also make a new set of blades up and show you how I do it.


Regards Rich
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Old Aug 23, 2010, 02:42 PM
autogyro andy
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South UK
Joined Feb 2007
743 Posts
Hi Rich

I am waiting for my glue to dry, I am still going!

Yours is looking very good Rich.

Can you answer a question, sorry if I missed this item in the thread.

Where does F5 go on B3?
Is it at an angle of some degree?
Also why do F4 and F5 have slots?

Regards
Andy
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Old Aug 23, 2010, 05:01 PM
It was a GLITCH! Honestly!
SafeLandings's Avatar
Stourport on Severn ,Worcestershire, United Kingdom
Joined Dec 2007
4,844 Posts
Andy,
See post 31, the position of F5 should line up with the centre of the cross member on B3 (you know when its right when the width lines up). The angle is not important and totally up to the builder, then make up the rib for the slot to suit to support F5.


Right...it was very windy this afternoon but I did manage a couple of flights with the new Spyro III. I added weight to the nose and used the slightly smaller 'Nellie blades'. It flew but not quite right, I will remove the weight from the nose and start on the 'plan' blades.


Here's the maiden

Spyro III Maiden Flight (3 min 5 sec)



Regards

Rich
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Old Aug 23, 2010, 05:47 PM
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DeRidder LA.
Joined Nov 2008
1,961 Posts
Brilliant Rich! Looks like it was floating well enough to me, but it's hard to say without being there, but you know best. Thanks for the video. I'll have to build one of these at some point. As always, great work.

Regards,
-Mike
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Old Aug 23, 2010, 06:56 PM
LSF 004 - AMA 5055
bobandris's Avatar
United States, CA, Saratoga
Joined Dec 2000
589 Posts
Re: The Maiden!

Rich,

From what I could see; they are very large and definitely made of brass!

Congrats,
Bob
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Old Aug 23, 2010, 08:59 PM
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Mud Duck Bill's Avatar
Up State New York , USA
Joined Mar 2009
1,199 Posts
Rich: That was a great video and the build time was really fast I have to find a outlet to order my supply's at You know what would be great is a parts list so we can do one stop shopping

Regards Bill
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