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Old Aug 12, 2010, 05:37 PM
It was a GLITCH! Honestly!
SafeLandings's Avatar
Stourport on Severn ,Worcestershire, United Kingdom
Joined Dec 2007
4,869 Posts
Mike,
I have the ...carbon rod sheet, UC and nose former sheet, tailplane sheet, head sheet, blade sheet, motor mount sheet, decal sheet and hopefully an angle and dangle sheet...all WIP. maybe might be another

I have sheeted the back/bottom half of the fuselage using 3mm balsa, angles were sanded in to the side pieces for a nice fit. These were made long and sanded down flush with the bottom of B4 before finally capping the top with another length of 3mm balsa.
The bottom of F5 was angled and glued into position and a 3mm thick rib glued into the slot through F4 and F5 to hold them rigid. The sheeting to the sides of these were then added, again tapering the bottom mating face for a nice joint. This part was then capped on the top with a soft piece of 6mm balsa, the front of F4 was then sanded flat ready for the nose wood.
Next up was the 6mm Birch ply front UC mount, this was cut to the template and each side was tapered. I have also since tapered the front to about 4mm. The reason is when I start to sand everything I can match the profiles up to these.
I haven't got any balsa block so the nose was made up with 5 pieces of 6mm soft balsa to the shape of the template. These were sandwiched together then glued onto the front of F4, the bottom face in line with the UC mount block.
At the top half of F1 and F2 I put 2 small pieces of 3mm balsa (grain running horizontally) in between to hold them in place and add a little strength. Both sides were then sheeted and the top of these and the formers were sanded flat. I used a scrap square of 6mm balsa and drilled a 6mm hole through it, this was inserted through the mast and glued onto the top of the newly sanded top. This was then sanded flush with all sides.

That's about it for today...I hope you guys are following my explanations OK?


Regards Rich
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Old Aug 13, 2010, 12:46 AM
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Jockadopolus's Avatar
Scotland
Joined Jan 2010
986 Posts
Rich
Explanation photos and PDF files are brilliant
Need the carbon sheet to keep up with the build
I fly back to Scotland next week for a few weeks are you going to the Nats?
Joe
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Last edited by Jockadopolus; Aug 13, 2010 at 07:24 AM.
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Old Aug 13, 2010, 03:22 PM
autogyro andy
HandyAndy's Avatar
South UK
Joined Feb 2007
748 Posts
This looks fun!

I am downloading the pdf's, is there enough room for one more at this party?

Andy
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Old Aug 13, 2010, 04:58 PM
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Jockadopolus's Avatar
Scotland
Joined Jan 2010
986 Posts
Andy the more the merrier, I fitted my new 4 stroke and checked the thrust line but I think the mast is tooooo long
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Old Aug 13, 2010, 05:39 PM
It was a GLITCH! Honestly!
SafeLandings's Avatar
Stourport on Severn ,Worcestershire, United Kingdom
Joined Dec 2007
4,869 Posts
Joe,
Thats great!!..made my day, though my eye was drawn more to the beer

I have just in filled with 2 sheets of soft 6mm balsa between the front UC ply wood mount and the back of the closest F4. This has all been sanded down roughly, creating a flat line between F4 and the nose block. The nose has also been sanded keeping the line of the tapering fuselage right to the end.
Tomorrow I will fit the rudder servo in place then make up the mould for the canopy.


Weight as you see it here is 80 grammes

Regards Rich
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Old Aug 14, 2010, 02:30 PM
It was a GLITCH! Honestly!
SafeLandings's Avatar
Stourport on Severn ,Worcestershire, United Kingdom
Joined Dec 2007
4,869 Posts
Fitted the rudder servo today, I marked the hole to be cut out 100mm from the rear edge and cut the hole out. 2 small pieces of 6 square hard wood were 'let' in and glued.
I have thought how I was going to make the UC simple so that anyone could make one, on my previous MK I & MK II versions I machined alloy inserts and just simply glued them in place for axles to be screwed too. So this is what I have come up with, I drilled out 2 M6 nuts 6mm and epoxied them to the ends of each tube (to stop them splitting). Then I bent 2 pieces of 4mm (ish) piano wire to the drawing , roughed them up and epoxied these into the end of the tube (I wedged lots of glue up the hole first!). The wheels slide on to the axles and I will retain them with wheel collets.
The front UC leg was bent up using 2.5mm piano wire (ish) to the profile shown on the drawing. A location hole was drilled and a small channel carved into the front Birch Ply UC plate. Using a small piece of Glass fibre I made a simple saddle clap to hold it in position. 2 hole positions are shown on the drawings and I think it would be better doing it this way. The front wheel will be retained with a small piece of plastic tubing CA'd on the end of the axle.

Thats it for today



Regards Rich
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Old Aug 14, 2010, 02:34 PM
It was a GLITCH! Honestly!
SafeLandings's Avatar
Stourport on Severn ,Worcestershire, United Kingdom
Joined Dec 2007
4,869 Posts
Sheets 4 & 5


Regards Rich
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Old Aug 14, 2010, 02:45 PM
It was a GLITCH! Honestly!
SafeLandings's Avatar
Stourport on Severn ,Worcestershire, United Kingdom
Joined Dec 2007
4,869 Posts
Forgot to mention...the mast tube length is 220mm, I will add this to a drawing!!..whoops
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Old Aug 14, 2010, 03:18 PM
It was a GLITCH! Honestly!
SafeLandings's Avatar
Stourport on Severn ,Worcestershire, United Kingdom
Joined Dec 2007
4,869 Posts
If you are building please do not glue in the UC tubes just yet, its far easier to cover without them inserted
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Old Aug 14, 2010, 03:58 PM
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Scotland
Joined Jan 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SafeLandings View Post
Forgot to mention...the mast tube length is 220mm, I will add this to a drawing!!..whoops
Thanks I needed that
What servos are you using?
ESC & Motor?
I will get the servos ESC and motor at the Nats
Joe
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Old Aug 15, 2010, 05:48 AM
It was a GLITCH! Honestly!
SafeLandings's Avatar
Stourport on Severn ,Worcestershire, United Kingdom
Joined Dec 2007
4,869 Posts
Joe,
These are the servos I use and I have never had a problem with them, you will need 3. You could probably get away with using a plastic geared servo for the rudder to bring the costs down, but some may want a steerable nose wheel and a MG servo is a must.

http://www.giantcod.co.uk/epower-dig...-p-403798.html

The motor I have used on my previous Spyros are the E MAX BL2210/25 using a cheap 25 amp esc (a bit OTT). I have also used the cheap EMAX CF2812, you can buy these cheap off ebay 2 at a time.

You will also need to buy another of the last motor, this is being used as the rotor spindle , I have looked into it and its cheaper to buy one of these than the bearings etc to construct our own!! and it is simple!


I have never been to the Nats, but I'm told there is lots going on!..might just go

Regards Rich
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Last edited by SafeLandings; Aug 15, 2010 at 05:53 AM.
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Old Aug 15, 2010, 06:33 AM
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Scotland
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986 Posts
Rich many thanks and if you make it to the Nats I hope to dump into you (Beer Tent)
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Old Aug 15, 2010, 08:32 AM
It was a GLITCH! Honestly!
SafeLandings's Avatar
Stourport on Severn ,Worcestershire, United Kingdom
Joined Dec 2007
4,869 Posts
Spyro wouldn't be Spyro with out its canopy!..I think it helps with its flying characteristics and gives it its distinct shape.

Its really easy to make and the one I made took less than an hour, so I think its worth the effort. Plus when its made you can make as many as you want

First I made some cardboard templates of the canopy floor, front and rear formers. These were cut out of 3mm light ply, the front and rear shapes were thinned down by about 5 mm. These were glued to match the angle of the front and rear formers, a 10mm soft balsa spine was then added at the top between the 2. Using soft 6mm balsa I then sheeted each side to create a slightly over sized blank.
It was then tack glued into position and sanded until it matched the fuselage. I kept the top flat and just sanded it a bit at a time until I was happy that the shape was sweeping from the rear to the top of the nose block. Every thing was then lightly sanded so that it was smooth. Using a sharp scaple I sliced through my tacks and now have a nearly ready to use mould

I will try and do some more to the mould later as I have to add a few more pieces to it to make it oversize ready for the Coke bottle.



Regards Rich
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Old Aug 15, 2010, 12:33 PM
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Mud Duck Bill's Avatar
Up State New York , USA
Joined Mar 2009
1,219 Posts
Hi: Rich didn't know about this thread so I am coming in a little late, but as soon as I can gather the materials I will be starting this project I REALLY need to build one that will fly. Can't think of any Questions and that is because you have been so through as usual
Regards Bill
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Old Aug 15, 2010, 03:35 PM
autogyro andy
HandyAndy's Avatar
South UK
Joined Feb 2007
748 Posts
Rich

Its good fun this thread, great idea.

I have cut out all pieces from sheets 1 2 and 3.

Need some carbon rod before cutting the holes, so as to check on the drill size.

I know I am not there yet Rich, but
Should the tail boom be fixed in before balsa sheeting the base?
If so whats its length?

I hope to get a 'Blue-Peter Badge' when finished!

Andy
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