|Aug 05, 2010, 05:48 AM|
HobbyKing/Art-Tech F/A-18 Hornet mod thread.
i thought i'd start a thread where anyone with a HK (art tech) hornet can list any mods or changes they have made.
as it grows, i'll index all the good info in these first few posts so it can be found easy.
i did see a +2yr old thread on this plane, but most of the images have gone and the people with it.
mine just arrived tonight, ive already cut a new hatch on top for the 2200 lipo, and i have a 70mm fan im fitting at this moment.
lets see pics of your hornet + hornet mods.. and any flight vid's.
please attach images to the thread so we dont lose them due to broken links
click the links below for more info on a mod or upgrade.
this post will be edited and more links added as more info is posted.
Centre Of Gravity
Centre Of Gravity 2nd opinion
Spookie's Elevator rod mod
320pilot's carbon elevator rod mod
larger battery hatch mod
Larger battery hatch mod # 2
upgrading to stinger landing gear - pls read several posts for link + how to
EDF removal and install
70mm EDF install
Spookie's motor upgrade on stock 64mm fan
Mark Woods EDF upgrade with flight video
Not.Likely's EDF upgrade with complete mod list
Livonia Bob's stock hornet video
Not.Likely's 4s/680w Hornet video
User Mod lists
Yort's mods with LOTS of pics
not.likely's mods with pics
|Aug 05, 2010, 08:31 AM|
yeah it is the art tech air frame, however the thread i found is over 2 yrs old
not sure if hardware changed. but most of the good info has been lost due to broken image links
|Aug 05, 2010, 08:59 AM|
Denmark, Capital Region of Denmark, Brøndbyvester
Joined Jun 2009
I would like to add a tip - I have seen a lot of people asking for where to place the COG. I found (some where on the net) that the COG is 560mm from the nosetip, and I works just perfect for me.
I did cut a new lipo hatch behind the canopy - using 2200mAh 3s - but then had to add some weight in the nose. I placed some lead in the original nose-lipo-hatch (can show a picture later) and my F-18 goes really stable and level in flight.
|Aug 05, 2010, 09:13 AM|
its not too hard to remove the fan, you just need to be a little bit gentle as the foam block fan mount is a pretty firm fit in the rear.
remove the 2 screws holding on the Rx cover
remove 2 screws in fan block/cover
get some slack on the ESC, move it to the side.
beneath the ESC is a hole, put your little finger in the hole, bend it towards the rear of the plane.
you'll feel the fan, push on it and it'll lift out a little.
you might need to gently work the hole in the rear of the fan cover so it comes out nice and square (you cant pry one end out before the other, its a tight fit)
the screwdriver in the pics below is only a pointer
DONT use a screwdriver to pry it out. you'll tear up the foam
|Aug 05, 2010, 09:23 AM|
battery box mod, behind the cockpit for bigger 2200 or 4s packs
i added a dubro park flyer hinge at the front
washer glued to an ice cream stick at the rear
a strong magnet is glued under the rear end of the canopy.
the two meet up and lock down the hatch
it allows me to hinge it open forward to change packs, and when closed the magnet gives a distinct click sound as it locks onto the washer.
|Aug 05, 2010, 10:03 AM|
|Aug 05, 2010, 10:37 AM|
looks like everything to add a rudder is marked out and ready to go.
all you need is a servo, 2x pushrods, and a pack of control horns.
the servo hole in the fuse, rudder, control horn mounts etc are all pre-marked and ready to go.
i just done a bit of stabby stabby with a hobby knife from the inside.
i done the two length cuts first, but then i advise you do the final two cuts from above or the foam ends up getting broken out a little untidy. (i found out the hard way but its not noticeable)
im actually thinking of going one further and chopping the mount tabs off my servo so it can sit a bit lower in the fuse for a cleaner look.
pushrod setup is merely a double ended servo horn with one straight linkage per rudder
i used 2x Dubro "small nylong hinges" to hook up each rudder to the stab. (total of 4 hinges used)
they've done all the hard work for you at the factory
**edit to combine my next post's image and info back into this one.**
Rudder pushrod is 220mm from the control horn hole, to the servo arm.
i used hobbyzone Supercub pushrods, i just chopped them to suit and made Z bend with some pliers.
i curled the tip of the Z bend up a little so theres no risk of it digging chunks of foam off the top of the fuse
it should be within a few mm' for most if you use the standard cutouts and mount holes.
EDIT: i cut the mount tabs off my servo, turned my Z bend so it connects from below the servo arm (allows cut end of push rod to sit high and not dig into the foam)
see last picture
|Aug 05, 2010, 01:15 PM|
thanks guys.. so when does yours arrive jammo + navwar?
|Aug 06, 2010, 03:34 AM|
just cut the mount wings off, and ditch the intake ring.
|Aug 06, 2010, 10:45 AM|
this is the 70mm fan im fitting
i havent flown with that setup yet, however if i can fit this 70mm setup then you should be able to fit virtually any 70mm EDF.
stock setup is approx 280-320w ?
the 70mm is 491w on 3s
thats about a 50% increase in power on 3s
64mm stock setup - 106g
70mm setup - 138g
i had to cut the mount tabs down on the fan. they have some notches, i just cut through the notch and filed it down a little bit so its sits in the foam's groove from the stock fan.
the stock fan's intake is a bit wider than its body. the wider intake section in the foam is what i used as a reference point to mount the intake of the 70mm fan in the same spot.
so from that intake marking, sand out the foam in the fuse going back past the two plastic screw mounts (this is where the foam block mount screws into)
i GENTLY filed the edge of those plastic mounts back a little aswell, it just allows the 70fan' to drop into place naturally.
sand out the foam block that the EDF mounts to.
the intake + exhaust openings right next to the fan are actually 70mm aswell it seems
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