Sunday was a great day out at the field. The sky was clear and the wind was very low. Almost non existent at times. It was a good day, for the most part.

V450D01C - 11-25-12 - 3D Flight #1 (4 min 29 sec)

V450D01C - 11-25-12 - 3D Flight #2 (4 min 20 sec)

V450D01C - 11-25-12 - Best Flight of the day (4 min 59 sec)

Vids for the X5


V120 vids, both crashes lol.

So I think I found the cause of my last crash... I got the replacement parts last night and fixed her up. Then measured the headspeed. At 80% throttle I was getting 2200rpm with the 11T pinion which is too low for this heli. I put a 13T on and now get 2600 which seems better though still maybe a little low for CF blades but maybe at 100% throttle I'll get another 200rpm and that should be fine. The other thing was that I used a new model memory (actually not my normal 450 TX) so the NORM PIT curve was a linear -100%-0-100% which isn't what I was expecting...

Damn me for rushing before the sun set!!

My D8 and D10 now have matched settings ... now how can I set up wireless sync so any changes on one are auto copied to the other?
What?? TX settings are not on the 'cloud' yet?? Tsk...!

Maybe an early morning check flight tomorrow...

Originally Posted by thwaitm

So I think I found the cause of my last crash... I got the replacement parts last night and fixed her up. Then measured the headspeed. At 80% throttle I was getting 2200rpm with the 11T pinion which is too low for this heli. I put a 13T on and now get 2600 which seems better though still maybe a little low for CF blades but maybe at 100% throttle I'll get another 200rpm and that should be fine. The other thing was that I used a new model memory (actually not my normal 450 TX) so the NORM PIT curve was a linear -100%-0-100% which isn't what I was expecting...

Damn me for rushing before the sun set!!

My D8 and D10 now have matched settings ... now how can I set up wireless sync so any changes on one are auto copied to the other?
What?? TX settings are not on the 'cloud' yet?? Tsk...!

Maybe an early morning check flight tomorrow...

What motor are you using? I get about 3200 rpm @ 100% throttle with the CopterX 3550kv motor and a 13T pinion. In my opinion, you need to be over 2600 rpm in any mode to have stability and control. You will have almost no pitch authority at 2600 rpm. Most people do 2800 or so. Biggie is either running a tachometer while smoking crack or he is actually flying 3600 rpm on his 450. Which seems way too fast to me. But it if it's right, he hasn't chucked a "pro 3d" blade off the root yet. So i suppose you can go as high as that if you really wanted to go nuts. I fly my heli at %90 in ST-1 and get longer flight times. It gives me room to use 100% if i want for loops and high velocity maneuvers or on windy, windy days. But 90% gives me about 3100 rpm at the beginning of the flight and probably 2900-3000 rpm by the end of the flight. This actually feels good but the 3200 rpm really kicks the heli around when i want it too. It's a big difference.

Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk

What motor are you using? I get about 3200 rpm @ 100% throttle with the CopterX 3550kv motor and a 13T pinion. In my opinion, you need to be over 2600 rpm in any mode to have stability and control. You will have almost no pitch authority at 2600 rpm. Most people do 2800 or so. Biggie is either running a tachometer while smoking crack or he is actually flying 3600 rpm on his 450. Which seems way too fast to me. But it if it's right, he hasn't chucked a "pro 3d" blade off the root yet. So i suppose you can go as high as that if you really wanted to go nuts. I fly my heli at %90 in ST-1 and get longer flight times. It gives me room to use 100% if i want for loops and high velocity maneuvers or on windy, windy days. But 90% gives me about 3100 rpm at the beginning of the flight and probably 2900-3000 rpm by the end of the flight. This actually feels good but the 3200 rpm really kicks the heli around when i want it too. It's a big difference.

I'm using this one http://www.justgofly.com/tech_450TH.htm with a 13T and the battery wasn't fully charged (just 11.4~6V). I used a tach to check mine at 0 pitch. I think it possibly needs a little more oomph as well - I do have another scorpion motor which I can slot in but reading the website linked above I figured the 450TH should be a decent enough motor... I'll try to tach it at 100% with a 12.6V battery and see what I get.

On your 2nd flight of the V450 where you did a loop & thought you had a dropout: What I saw at around the 2 O'clock position was that your pitch changed & it looked like you released some of your aft cyclic while pointed towards the ground. I didn't hear any motor speed slowdown.

Are running 7 point throttle & pitch curves & are they divided equally between each point?


[QUOTE=IntegrityHndywrk;23366074]Sunday was a great day out at the field. The sky was clear and the wind was very low. Almost non existent at times. It was a good day, for the most part.

Originally Posted by thwaitm

I'm using this one http://www.justgofly.com/tech_450TH.htm with a 13T and the battery wasn't fully charged (just 11.4~6V). I used a tach to check mine at 0 pitch. I think it possibly needs a little more oomph as well - I do have another scorpion motor which I can slot in but reading the website linked above I figured the 450TH should be a decent enough motor... I'll try to tach it at 100% with a 12.6V battery and see what I get.

That is a 3000kv motor. So you might even need a 14T pinion or bigger to get it up to 3200 rpm. It should work fine with 13T though. You just have more altitude control /pitch authority with the higher head speeds. But you should be in the ball park i think with 13T.


here is what your looking at roughly based on a 30C pack.

Thanks Integrity, that looks pretty in line with what I measured last night with 0 pitch I got 3100 or just over on a full battery...

Does anyone know where to get the fatter washers for the spindle/feathering shaft screws? The ones that secure the blade grips. I have a set that probably came with my Walkera rotor head and the tapered type Walkera feathering shaft. But Walkera does not sell individual Feathering shafts or screw/washers for them. I always end up with some variant of Align or Align parts. Those are always 1mm washers, if they are even that thick. But the 2mm washers are needed on both sides of the Walkera rotor head to eat up some of the play left from the shaft being a little bit too long. I can't seem to find them to order anywhere. The hardware store does not have any that small. There must be some out there somewhere?

Integrity,

Can't you just carefully shave off a bit of the shaft on both ends equally using your measuring stick to calculate how much it needs to be shortened? Or would that not do the trick?

Originally Posted by iflyhelis

Integrity,

Can't you just carefully shave off a bit of the shaft on both ends equally using your measuring stick to calculate how much it needs to be shortened? Or would that not do the trick?

Yeah, i've thought about hitting it with the dremel and just grinding the shaft down a bit. But i'm worried about taking too much. It's really just easier to use the fatter washers. It's just so strange that one of my rotor heads has these washers, but the other ones all using align spindles use 1mm washers. I know walkera at some point switched between a solid feathering shaft to a tapered tip shaft like the Align shafts are. I think the rotor head i bought that came with the tapered shaft also came with these washers. Which is interesting because i can't seem to find washers like them anywhere. I assume they are 2mm ID and 2mm thickness. I suppose i can use 2 1mm washers. But that seems to end up too thick and binds up the rotor. So i only used 1, 1mm washer on each side. But now the blade grips can kind of "teeter" in the gap because of the tapered tip on the shaft.

Hopefully any of that made sense, because i think i confused myself. But basically i didn't want to risk grinding or cutting the shafts. Using the right washer for a shim seems to be the better idea. I think the tail blade grips come with 2 thicker 2mm washers too. They have to be available somewhere.

Here is something interesting for anyone in the US. I placed an order with Wowhobbies last weekend. The shipping cost was slightly more than usual and they no longer had insured shipping available though the USPS. Today i went to place another small order. The shipping that was now the default by wow was FedEx insured shipping for like $17 just for a $9 V120 swashplate and some canopies. But it doesn't end there. The only other shipping available was for FedEx uninsured for $15.50 or USPS Priority mail -UNINSURED for $13.70. I suppose it could just be wow's site screwing up. But i doubt it.

The USPS is going out of business basically. Don't worry though, economic collapse isn't on it's way or anything. (total sarcasm implied)

My mistake, I thought you were talking about the main blade feathering shaft.

I need to look at my grips and see what you are talking about before I put my foot in my mouth.

Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk

Yeah, i've thought about hitting it with the dremel and just grinding the shaft down a bit. But i'm worried about taking too much. It's really just easier to use the fatter washers. It's just so strange that one of my rotor heads has these washers, but the other ones all using align spindles use 1mm washers. I know walkera at some point switched between a solid feathering shaft to a tapered tip shaft like the Align shafts are. I think the rotor head i bought that came with the tapered shaft also came with these washers. Which is interesting because i can't seem to find washers like them anywhere. I assume they are 2mm ID and 2mm thickness. I suppose i can use 2 1mm washers. But that seems to end up too thick and binds up the rotor. So i only used 1, 1mm washer on each side. But now the blade grips can kind of "teeter" in the gap because of the tapered tip on the shaft.

Hopefully any of that made sense, because i think i confused myself. But basically i didn't want to risk grinding or cutting the shafts. Using the right washer for a shim seems to be the better idea. I think the tail blade grips come with 2 thicker 2mm washers too. They have to be available somewhere.

Does anyone know why i couldn't finish off the rudder servo end point settings.....? i have set this rx2702v so many times but today when i finally got my replacement parts for the tail and tried setting up the rudder servo before i bring it out again....
so what actually happened was when it went on the triple fast blink (which is for the right end point), i couldn't get it to finish off the setting....ie...press setup button again did not have any effect, the light still blink 3 times even though i keep pressing the setup button....

i tried the rudder servo on the rx2703h-d and it worked just fine....in fact this rx doesn't need any setup at all....as like plug n play....

does anyone here know what is wrong with my 2702v? could it be faulty...i hope not... =(

I don't have a 2702V RX but I have seen the complete setup on YouTube, do a search for that RX you will have all the info you will ever need. I think the key in the rudder setup on the 2702V is you need to move the rudder stick for it to know the end-points. But watch the video, ok?

Originally Posted by eugenechong

Does anyone know why i couldn't finish off the rudder servo end point settings.....? i have set this rx2702v so many times but today when i finally got my replacement parts for the tail and tried setting up the rudder servo before i bring it out again....
so what actually happened was when it went on the triple fast blink (which is for the right end point), i couldn't get it to finish off the setting....ie...press setup button again did not have any effect, the light still blink 3 times even though i keep pressing the setup button....

i tried the rudder servo on the rx2703h-d and it worked just fine....in fact this rx doesn't need any setup at all....as like plug n play....

does anyone here know what is wrong with my 2702v? could it be faulty...i hope not... =(

Originally Posted by iflyhelis

My mistake, I thought you were talking about the main blade feathering shaft.

I need to look at my grips and see what you are talking about before I put my foot in my mouth.

O, i was talking about the main blade FS/ spindle shaft. It's too long for the Walkera rotor head. At least the Align type ones with the tapered ends are. I was just showing the 2 washers that come with the tail grips, which are 2mm thick washers also. Same as the ones that came installed on ONLY ONE of the like 10 rotor heads i have floating around over here. So somewhere along the lines they changed the FS inside the rotor heads they sell as spare parts. The NEW version, i suppose it's the newer one anyway. That version uses a FS like the Align FS. It's the same length and everything, just without Align branding on the side of it. But it came with 2 of these 2mm thick washers instead of the typical 1mm washers that Align and everyone else provides with the shafts. I was just trying to point out that the 2mm thick washers that come with the tail grips are the same. These are the washers i am looking for in bulk bags of like 10 or more.

I was worried about shaving off too much or unbalancing the lengths. Or possibly ruining the threads inside. I'm sure i could grind/cut some off. but using washers is just SOO much easier.

Originally Posted by eugenechong

Does anyone know why i couldn't finish off the rudder servo end point settings.....? i have set this rx2702v so many times but today when i finally got my replacement parts for the tail and tried setting up the rudder servo before i bring it out again....
so what actually happened was when it went on the triple fast blink (which is for the right end point), i couldn't get it to finish off the setting....ie...press setup button again did not have any effect, the light still blink 3 times even though i keep pressing the setup button....

i tried the rudder servo on the rx2703h-d and it worked just fine....in fact this rx doesn't need any setup at all....as like plug n play....

does anyone here know what is wrong with my 2702v? could it be faulty...i hope not... =(

Just so you know. The press button on the 2702V is notorious for going bad. You might need to press harder or wiggle when pressing or press and hold for it to get a response. My first 2702V was like this and sometimes i really had to mess with it to get the button working. Usually only pressing the button on one side worked properly. You just had to hit it right.


Just in case this helps.

Setting Rudder end points:

1. Press and hold the setup button till you enter rudder setup mode (make sure the switch is in the right position)

2. Check full range of motion. Right now the gyro is turned off and FULL range of motion is available.

3. Let the rudder return to "neutral" or the center point.

4. Press the setup button to confirm the "neutral" point.

5. Push the stick to the FAR left and back off a little so there is no binding.

6. Press the setup button to confirm the LEFT end point.

7. Push the stick to the FAR right and back off a little so there is no binding.

8. Press the setup button and the rudder should throw back and forth about 3 times confirming that setup is complete.

If you did in fact go though all of that in those steps. You might just need to play with your button to get it to work right when it's not working. Otherwise i'm not sure what is going on with your RX since i'm not there.