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Old Nov 23, 2012, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by lordw0rm View Post
Yikes. It cost the same amount as the Align gear. I bet i can actually get the Align stuff cheaper because of shipping. At least it does look up to quality to be sold for those prices. I was just expecting cheaper


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Originally Posted by thwaitm View Post
I have a spare 450 head but if I break too many more of those swash followers then I'm just going to abandon normal flybarless and go DFC - but only if I can get the DFC bits as individual items rather than needing to buy a complete set each time... $15 is still less than $50 last time I checked!
I am the same, I actually have a few spare rotor heads. It's just you can't get the old swash anymore. I found that changing the mixing to 100 - 100 - 100 on the "New" swash will give you almost as much cyclic range and movement as 70 - 70 -70 on the old swash. Then if you need a little more you can add some DR i suppose. But i just don't like this arrangement with no headroom. Though it seems to be flying okay for now. I will have to go to DFC. It is nice that i don't have to buy whole rotor heads for spare parts with Align. Where is it that Walkera is cheap again?

But i've never broken a swash follower Maybe once. Thats about it.




Man, all these people burning out servos, I feel your pain. Yes as soon as you crash them they can become highly volatile. It creates a chain reaction effect. I tried my best to put out a warning on the V450D03 thread and it met nothing but resistance. As i expected. But the sad truth is once you burn out the stock servos, with that RX, your basically stuck with their stock servos as replacements. Otherwise you will have a limited pick of servos that will actually work. Because they will have to match the specs for the RX exactly or they could face early burnout or any number of inconsistencies in flight.


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Originally Posted by addifromgermany View Post
Hi,

here´s a pic from my V450d01, there are not many stock parts on it (sorry for my bad english)
Upgrades i did: White Align Blades even on the Tail (on the pic there were mounted the Walkera tail blades)
New Receiver (RX2703)
New Swashplate from the 450d03
Roxxy 950 ESC with governor mode and soft-start feature, very nice :-)

And today i kicked out the walkere Stock Servos, the pitch servo simply startet to smoke on the bench without havin a crash i the flights before.
I now mounted the KDS N290 Servos, much quiter and smoother but no plug and play. To mount elev and aile servos i had to modify my frame a little bit with the dremel-tool.

The only thing that sucks is, that i cant programm my throttle stick range with this rx to the esc :-(
I couldn't find any pulse width specs on those servos. But they appear to be analog? You should probably only use digital servos with that RX. Just assuming it is a digital only RX. The analog servos will not last a long time receiving digital signal. It was never advisable to use analog servos of any kind with the 2702V. The same is probably true with the 2703V-D.
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Old Nov 23, 2012, 11:55 AM
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Hi,

they are digital :-) And other v450 owners are flying them for a while also :-)
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Old Nov 23, 2012, 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by addifromgermany View Post
Hi,

they are digital :-) And other v450 owners are flying them for a while also :-)
Weird. This link calls them analog. But looking again it also says digital. strange. I imagine i'll never be putting an order in on this web site.


http://www.rcmodelpart.com/2x-kds-n2...ervo_p243.html
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Old Nov 23, 2012, 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by fishfiend View Post
Sounds like you have the grips on backwards...they should be leading edge control, not trailing edge. Which means that as the blade rotates clockwise, the control arm is in front not behind. You need to turn your grips over.
you r totally right. the same mistakes that i've made many many times....however, the servo arms are still moving in the opposite directions......as in throttle up the arms should move down but in my case, the servo arms moved up with the stick....all settins on tx and rx have not been changed since the last crash.....do u know what is causing this? the rx is 2703h-d....

i suppose now with the burnt servo i'll have to wait for the align ds410m to arrive before i can really test it again....bugger...!
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Old Nov 24, 2012, 01:36 AM
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Originally Posted by eugenechong View Post
you r totally right. the same mistakes that i've made many many times....however, the servo arms are still moving in the opposite directions......as in throttle up the arms should move down but in my case, the servo arms moved up with the stick....all settins on tx and rx have not been changed since the last crash.....do u know what is causing this? the rx is 2703h-d....

i suppose now with the burnt servo i'll have to wait for the align ds410m to arrive before i can really test it again....bugger...!
does the RX have a pitch reverse switch? That is the only thing i can think of. Are your gyros working correctly? Check that when you move the heli that the swash tries to stay level. If you tilt to the left, the left side of the swash should LIFT. If you tilt to the right, the right side should lift. Always keeping the swash level.

I think you know how to do this, but if not take a look at this beastX manual. It shows some illustrations on how to check gyro movement on page 38 & 39

http://www.beastx.com/manuals/MICROBEAST_PV_ENG.pdf

If all of your swash gyro movement is correct, you only have to reverse settings on your TX to work the controls correctly. BUT YOU MUST MAKE SURE YOUR GYROS ARE CORRECT. Then you can work on reversing switches in the TX to make the controls function the correct way. If the gyros function correctly the controls can be switched any way you want them to work, in theory.

Is it possible that you reset the model data on your TX and the reverse switches got reset or something like that?
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Old Nov 24, 2012, 02:37 AM
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If the arms are supposed to move down when you throttle up, then your grips are on the right way. Leading edge control is for when the arms right go up when collective is lifted and when the arms go down for positive collective the blade grips should have trailing edge control. I think Im more confused than you now!
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Old Nov 24, 2012, 03:18 AM
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Originally Posted by fishfiend View Post
If the arms are supposed to move down when you throttle up, then your grips are on the right way. Leading edge control is for when the arms right go up when collective is lifted and when the arms go down for positive collective the blade grips should have trailing edge control. I think Im more confused than you now!
hehe....what is happening now is when i throttle up the arms move up (should be the other way round). I really dont' know how it happened and the only way to change it back is to have the pitch reversed on the tx....but then with this reversal, the arms are not in their 90 degree level position like how it came from the factory....the factory settings for this rx2703d-h is normal on all settings...nothing needs reversal....so i just don't get it....really don't.....

integrity, the rx is really simple....without any set button to press and no reset button....the whole thing is basically a plug n play i suppose.....which alot have said it is a good 6-axis gyro....n i've quite liked it before i crashed it....now it is just a pain in the arse......
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Old Nov 24, 2012, 04:25 AM
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Originally Posted by eugenechong View Post
hehe....what is happening now is when i throttle up the arms move up (should be the other way round). I really dont' know how it happened and the only way to change it back is to have the pitch reversed on the tx....but then with this reversal, the arms are not in their 90 degree level position like how it came from the factory....the factory settings for this rx2703d-h is normal on all settings...nothing needs reversal....so i just don't get it....really don't.....

integrity, the rx is really simple....without any set button to press and no reset button....the whole thing is basically a plug n play i suppose.....which alot have said it is a good 6-axis gyro....n i've quite liked it before i crashed it....now it is just a pain in the arse......
I really think your confusing yourself here. Unless they changed it, and i doubt they did. The swash should move UP when you throttle up and DOWN when you throttle down. Unlike the V120D02S, if your comparing it to that. That one the swash moves down because it's controlling the opposite edge of the blade grip. The trailing edge of the blades. The V450 models use the leading edge for control so the swash moves UP. You may have the grips on upside down or the blades, or something. But something is confusing one of us here. Some pictures or something might help.
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Old Nov 24, 2012, 06:39 AM
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Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk View Post
I really think your confusing yourself here. Unless they changed it, and i doubt they did. The swash should move UP when you throttle up and DOWN when you throttle down. Unlike the V120D02S, if your comparing it to that. That one the swash moves down because it's controlling the opposite edge of the blade grip. The trailing edge of the blades. The V450 models use the leading edge for control so the swash moves UP. You may have the grips on upside down or the blades, or something. But something is confusing one of us here. Some pictures or something might help.
hehe now I feel like an idiot. the arms n swash should move up when throttle up. I've compared it with the d02s.... n after a close look the leading edge are different... hehe.... I will now have to wait for the replacement tail and cyclic servos till I can actually fly it.

one question about the tail servo.... I've put on a micro servo n it is looking fine.... the size is the same as the cyclic servo. is it safe to use it on the tail....?
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Old Nov 24, 2012, 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by eugenechong View Post
hehe now I feel like an idiot. the arms n swash should move up when throttle up. I've compared it with the d02s.... n after a close look the leading edge are different... hehe.... I will now have to wait for the replacement tail and cyclic servos till I can actually fly it.

one question about the tail servo.... I've put on a micro servo n it is looking fine.... the size is the same as the cyclic servo. is it safe to use it on the tail....?
The cyclic servo is not a high toque servo, that won't work for the tail.
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Old Nov 24, 2012, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk View Post
Weird. This link calls them analog. But looking again it also says digital. strange. I imagine i'll never be putting an order in on this web site.


http://www.rcmodelpart.com/2x-kds-n2...ervo_p243.html
Greetings all, thought I would stop by here for a minute or two. IH warned me about the V450 some time back. Being the project nut I am, that didn't stop me from entertaining thoughts of buying one of those Black Friday sale V450's at WOWhobbies. $170 for a $370 heli is somewhat tempting even with the plastic gear servos. I noticed after the sale started, the V450's were the first to go. I would be surprised if they sold very many of those slightly marked down V500's with no Rx.

Here is my curiosity, WOW sells a modified metal gear version for about $50 more. Makes me wonder which servo they are using.
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Old Nov 24, 2012, 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by iflyhelis View Post
The cyclic servo is not a high toque servo, that won't work for the tail.
I agree, you need a high torque servo for the tail. Though the cyclic servo might work, it will probably strain and burn out or not turn the heli quickly. It's not really worth it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ChopperJack View Post
Greetings all, thought I would stop by here for a minute or two. IH warned me about the V450 some time back. Being the project nut I am, that didn't stop me from entertaining thoughts of buying one of those Black Friday sale V450's at WOWhobbies. $170 for a $370 heli is somewhat tempting even with the plastic gear servos. I noticed after the sale started, the V450's were the first to go. I would be surprised if they sold very many of those slightly marked down V500's with no Rx.

Here is my curiosity, WOW sells a modified metal gear version for about $50 more. Makes me wonder which servo they are using.

Hey man, i have nothing to say here. You bought the V450D01 for just about what it's worth in reality. Not what Walkera says, but the real value.

They use the Walkera metal gear servos. They are the 09-9 version 2 servos. They claim they are just like a Hi-tec or something but they are not. They are junk. The 09-9 and 09-8 servos are basically the same servo with different gearing. They are like a Hi-tec in looks maybe, but nothing else. Hell, they don't even really look alike.



The upgraded turbo ace motor is actually pretty damn nice. But these servos are not. I would just follow my V450 build log and drop the $150 on Savox/Align servos when the time comes. Trust me, when you approach around 2-5 service hours those servos will burn out and fail. Keep that in mind. Thats about 25-30 flights. If your lucky you will get more. That goes for ANY of the 450 walkera servos, including the tail servo. That is my estimate on Walkera servo service life. Of course, i know people here that posted their servos burned out "in the box" or "on the bench" so lucky them. They didn't get to crash too.

Anyway, just follow my log and ask any questions here. Myself and many others are here and willing to help.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...6#post22809788
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Old Nov 24, 2012, 06:22 PM
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Of course the weak link is the plastic gear.

But, there is something else in these servos that nobody even thinks about & that is the potentiometer that reads what position the servo is in. When you crash these can get damaged also, & they of course do not sell those as a repair part. Only the gears if you are lucky!

Integrity, thanks for the reality pictures of what our Walkera metal servo gears are really made up to be.

Funny, all the servos I bought for my nitro helis & gas heli that were metal geared, had all metal gears in them & no plastic.
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Old Nov 25, 2012, 06:14 AM
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Originally Posted by iflyhelis View Post
Of course the weak link is the plastic gear.

But, there is something else in these servos that nobody even thinks about & that is the potentiometer that reads what position the servo is in. When you crash these can get damaged also, & they of course do not sell those as a repair part. Only the gears if you are lucky!

Integrity, thanks for the reality pictures of what our Walkera metal servo gears are really made up to be.

Funny, all the servos I bought for my nitro helis & gas heli that were metal geared, had all metal gears in them & no plastic.
If your lucky and skilled you might be able to find a pot at radio shack that will work. The Walkera pots are actually pretty crash resilient. I've been ignoring jitters on my Savox servos because the pots are basically shot to hell on at least one servo right now. /shrug

The plastic gear, you can think of like a damper. Since it's very unlikely for damage to be transfered that far down the gear line. Typically a tooth on one of the first gears in the line will break way before the damage can get passed to the plastic gear. So the plastic gear provided a smoother transition of the motor power to the gears. I think because of the hard style 3D going on these days. Not sure really. But i know the plastic is there for a reason and most high end servos do this these days.
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Old Nov 25, 2012, 06:29 AM
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Today i was having short flight times and very early battery alarms. I don't know, could be just my Turnigy packs are degrading. The colder air maybe something to do with it too? I don't know but I had to repair my Hobbywing Platinum ESC again. I think this is the cause of the issue. But the packs are probably degrading too. This is the 2nd time the capacitors came loose and broke off. This time the red power lead was frayed pretty badly from moving it around and plugging in and unplugging the battery. (i fly a lot, ) So i had to cut and strip a new tip for the red lead, solder it back on the ESC and then add a new capacitor. This time i used a very short piece of lead wire to connect the cap, mostly because the pins on the only cap i had left were broken off. So hopefully this is better than nothing. At least the wire cant just break off. But the cap should be as close as as you can get it. But this short distance shouldn't be to bad. I hope. After that, i tie wrapped my battery leads to the frame so they will stop wearing out at the solder joint and hopefully not bother the capacitors any longer too.


The missing cap and red lead wire is frayed pretty badly in the back.




After stripping and soldering the red lead back on.




Added the new capacitor. It's 100 uF short of the old one and it's got this lead wire. But for now it will have to do till i can stop by radio shack.




Tie wrapped the leads:
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