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Old Sep 13, 2012, 09:56 AM
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IntegrityHndywrk's Avatar
United States, FL, Palm Coast
Joined Mar 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thwaitm View Post
And yeah - OWB... the cage on mine fails within about 3 flights. Seems like when it locks up it whacks all that momentum/inertia into the OWB cage and breaks it. I wish there was a heavy duty version available... maybe that's my ESC not starting the motor softly enough - it is on super soft setting though.
I have updated the firmware in my super brain 60A too and apparently, it shouldn't smoke my motor any more. That would be great if I can fly it with current logging. Long weekend this weekend - early to bed and then get up with the sun! Beat them damned guards to the flying site!
Ah, you had that issue too? The first outrage OWB i installed would have a slight bit of play before it picked up the slack. By then the OWB gets slammed by the motor torque from the additional play in the spin before grabbing. I think that is what you are saying was happening to you. Yes, even with my ESC on VERY SOFT it was doing that too. So i switched it out to this OWB which was brand new. It did not have that "play" in it. But just the same, broke free from the hub mid flight.

Just FYI, my align OWB usually survive many crashes. The Walkera ones do not. Also i've observed that other brands with red or other color plastics inside the OWB. Always seem a bit less durable. I don't know if color means anything at all. But the black inside of the Align OWB and the microheli OWB have seemed more durable. But the microheli one is like $10. I just press my own Align OWB in one of the 5 walkera hubs i have laying around.


Quote:
Originally Posted by iflyhelis View Post
I'm going by the Devo 10 info stating that AVCS can be shut down if you reduce the gyro gains to zero so they say.

I was going to test that yesterday, but while flying on my first battery that came with the heli (6) cycles on it. My alarm on the balance plug was beeping, and 15 seconds later it fell & hit the park bench I was landing on. Cracked canopy/horizontal stabilizer holder cracked.

I was lucky it landed on the bench then fell to the seat, I hit throttle hold but the motor was lightly trying to drive the blades. I looked at the voltage & it said total was 8 volts.

When I charged that battery two days ago it put in 2200 Mah. but the voltage peaked at 12.4 instead of 12.6 I thought that was odd. So, when I charged it yesterday it got up to 12.6 volts & 2200 Mah. But it did not shut down the charge in balance mode. I ended up canceling the charge & then discharged it for about 500 Mah. then re-started a balance charge again. Then it charged properly & shutoff the charger.

I am going to keep my eye on that battery!

So, I didn't get to try out reduced gyro gains, coming soon.
Seriously. Please take my advise. Don't ever try to fly with that battery again. Especially if it is puffy or soft on the outside at all! I'm willing to bet your packs puff slightly after a flight? That is one of the downfalls of the stock v450 batteries. They are actually pretty good, if nothing else but overpriced. But they always puffed on me after a flight. Could have been the Turbo ace motor. But please trust me. Your battery has reached the end of it's line. The next time you fly it the battery alarm will sound again as the cells reach critical level very quickly when they are deteriorated. If your curiosity won't let it be. Then at least tie the skids to a cinder block or something and do a strap down test flight with it first. I'd hate to see you go though all the things i did. The reason i don't mind having gone though it is because i can warn others. It's the only saving grace i have left.

But, now you can see how a battery alarm can save you from crashing if you react fast enough and land immediately in the dirt if you have to. It's a shame they never go off before my failures though. Indicating other issues besides my batteries.

Take a read over this too. You might know some of this but this site has some nice info on how to treat your lipo batteries to make them last. Including not keeping them fully charged for more than a day or 2!!! If you do, stick them in the fridge and take them out an hour before you go flying. At least thats what i do based on the info i have read here.

http://www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-lipo-batteries.html
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Old Sep 13, 2012, 01:13 PM
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iflyhelis's Avatar
United States, MA, Norton
Joined Aug 2012
285 Posts
No puffed up batteries after a flight at all.

Before, I never used the battery alarm & just flew it till I noticed a slow down in rotor speed.

Then I started using the battery alarm, & when it went off I would have plenty of time to land, like a minute.

But, the batteries were hot, but not burn your hand hot, just hot.

Now with the battery alarm, I take the battery out & it is barely warm.

This original battery as I said before, did not charge correctly & I didn't do anything to correct that before I used it.

Now I will!

The GE B6 charger put in 2200 Ma. but the voltage peaked at 12.4 volts & not 12.6 & I don't know why.

You know those rubber grommets that hold the canopy on? Where can I buy more of them, as I lost 2 of them & I am not going to buy a canopy just to get 4 grommets.

I did some tweaking on my TX & I was surprised that the pitch for collective was at 60% so I bumped it up to 75% Wow! what a difference in how fast this little birdy climbs now. I also changed my throttles in stunt 1 & stunt 2 85% for stunt 1 & 90% for stunt 2. Only did that because the main rotor speed was way to fast for me, I was waiting for a blade to sling off of it at 100%

I also found that there is a throttle to tail rotor curve that is active on my Devo 10, that should be inhibited. Due to the gyro controls it all, but I can't inhibit it, only modify it. Weird!




Quote:
Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk View Post
Seriously. Please take my advise. Don't ever try to fly with that battery again. Especially if it is puffy or soft on the outside at all! I'm willing to bet your packs puff slightly after a flight? That is one of the downfalls of the stock v450 batteries. They are actually pretty good, if nothing else but overpriced. But they always puffed on me after a flight. Could have been the Turbo ace motor. But please trust me. Your battery has reached the end of it's line. The next time you fly it the battery alarm will sound again as the cells reach critical level very quickly when they are deteriorated. If your curiosity won't let it be. Then at least tie the skids to a cinder block or something and do a strap down test flight with it first. I'd hate to see you go though all the things i did. The reason i don't mind having gone though it is because i can warn others. It's the only saving grace i have left.

But, now you can see how a battery alarm can save you from crashing if you react fast enough and land immediately in the dirt if you have to. It's a shame they never go off before my failures though. Indicating other issues besides my batteries.

Take a read over this too. You might know some of this but this site has some nice info on how to treat your lipo batteries to make them last. Including not keeping them fully charged for more than a day or 2!!! If you do, stick them in the fridge and take them out an hour before you go flying. At least thats what i do based on the info i have read here.

http://www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-lipo-batteries.html
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Old Sep 13, 2012, 02:08 PM
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United States, MA, Norton
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I read the link! Interesting! I do follow every rule except for charging them in a safe or safe type bag. I don't ever leave them alone while charging.

Thanks for the info..............
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Old Sep 13, 2012, 05:19 PM
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United States, FL, Palm Coast
Joined Mar 2012
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There is some other useful info on that site for free. He charges for lessons or something like that. But lots of good info.


Please just be careful with that lipo! Also what are you setting your battery alarm to? I usually use 3.6 or 3.7v depending on the discharge rate and capacity of the battery. Higher C ratings i use 3.7v. Typical 2200 lipo i use 3.6v and land immediately. you'll only have 30 seconds to a min. before the lipo reaches critical levels. (below 3.75 or 3.7v) That could have been the only issue. Also sometimes when the cells become unbalanced you can experience the type of charge you did. I don't know what kind of protections your charger might have. But it probably cut the charge at 12.4 because it detected something. who knows. Lipos are touchy.

They are handy little tools.
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Old Sep 13, 2012, 06:30 PM
Team WarpSquad
Japan, Tokyo
Joined Jun 2011
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@iflyhelis, your charger may have a capacity cutoff set. Check in the settings if at 2200mAh it will stop charging. That's most likely the reason.

I'll check my D10 and find out how you inhibit that throttle/tail curve. I guess it's under the MODEL menu rather than FUNCTION.

@IHWK, thanks for the info about OWB. I have an Align one ready for when the next WK one quits.
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Old Sep 14, 2012, 06:19 AM
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Check it out.

Need to be impressed and make your thumbs feel really stupid, check this out on TED.com. Heres the link:
http://www.ted.com/talks/vijay_kumar...cooperate.html

Viking
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Old Sep 14, 2012, 06:43 AM
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United States, MA, Norton
Joined Aug 2012
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I'll look at the link again, I only looked at the info on the care of LiPo's

On my plug in battery alarm it doesn't have a adj. limit. I think it goes off at 3.7 at least when I land, that is the voltage I am seeing.

I thought my charger was set to do a delta peak cutoff like a NiCad at least the instructions said as much. I know that it has always terminated charge at 12.6 Volts before even if I only used 1800 Ma. But this probably terminated voltage early due to a MA. capacity as it put in 2200 Ma. & that is the setting. I should have set it for charge again, & let it reach full voltage.

I know on NiCads if you use the full capacity, you must charge it to 110% On lead acid it is 120% so these LiPo's must be somewhat similar except they must terminate charge at 4.2 volts per cell per that link you gave me.

I always charge in balance mode now, I probably did a regular charge 3 times total but only once per 3 battery packs.


Quote:
Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk View Post
There is some other useful info on that site for free. He charges for lessons or something like that. But lots of good info.


Please just be careful with that lipo! Also what are you setting your battery alarm to? I usually use 3.6 or 3.7v depending on the discharge rate and capacity of the battery. Higher C ratings i use 3.7v. Typical 2200 lipo i use 3.6v and land immediately. you'll only have 30 seconds to a min. before the lipo reaches critical levels. (below 3.75 or 3.7v) That could have been the only issue. Also sometimes when the cells become unbalanced you can experience the type of charge you did. I don't know what kind of protections your charger might have. But it probably cut the charge at 12.4 because it detected something. who knows. Lipos are touchy.

They are handy little tools.
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Old Sep 14, 2012, 06:54 AM
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It has a preset menu for 3 cell LiPo 11.1 volts 2200 Ma. I suppose I could create a custom charge set (I can save 5) I'm not sure if I want to plug in 2400 MA. & pray that it shuts off via the 12.6 volt limit.

Thanks about checking for a throttle/tail curve, I really can't see why they would have that if the gyro is a heading hold unit. You would think it would confuse the gyro, I know when I first got my heading hold gyro for my other helis, the instructions stated to disable tail/throttle curves.

Quote:
Originally Posted by thwaitm View Post
@iflyhelis, your charger may have a capacity cutoff set. Check in the settings if at 2200mAh it will stop charging. That's most likely the reason.

I'll check my D10 and find out how you inhibit that throttle/tail curve. I guess it's under the MODEL menu rather than FUNCTION.

@IHWK, thanks for the info about OWB. I have an Align one ready for when the next WK one quits.
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Old Sep 14, 2012, 07:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eugenechong View Post
hi all, i've got the rx2702v rx on one tarot 450. does anyone here know how to make the tail hold? ie. whenever i rotate left or right, the tail doesn't stop immediately....it will drift off a bit then stop....is it to do with the pot settings?
I had the same issue with my M120 that was bad enough to cause crashes when flown hard.
To correct I had to go into the TX to the "Travel Adjustment" settings and increase the Gyro setting to a higher %. That corrected it completely.
I have not had that problem with the V450 though.

Viking
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Old Sep 14, 2012, 07:41 AM
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Thanks for sharing, that was amazing!


Quote:
Originally Posted by A VIKING View Post
Need to be impressed and make your thumbs feel really stupid, check this out on TED.com. Heres the link:
http://www.ted.com/talks/vijay_kumar...cooperate.html

Viking
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Old Sep 14, 2012, 10:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A VIKING View Post
I had the same issue with my M120 that was bad enough to cause crashes when flown hard.
To correct I had to go into the TX to the "Travel Adjustment" settings and increase the Gyro setting to a higher %. That corrected it completely.
I have not had that problem with the V450 though.

Viking
Can anyone share their pot turning on the rx?
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Old Sep 14, 2012, 11:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eugenechong View Post
Can anyone share their pot turning on the rx?
You can see in the picture that Integrity posted at: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...82670&page=191
post number 2852, the RX settings that most of us fly with on the V450. Those positions seem to be the sweet spot.

Viking
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Old Sep 14, 2012, 05:42 PM
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Joined Mar 2012
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Okay, So i had a sweet day yesterday after work! 5 packs down on the V450 with the copterX motor. I have to say. That little motor is a lot of bang for your buck! Seriously, In the high winds i was facing yesterday i didn't notice any bogging or drop in power. In fact, i can go to 80% in ST-2 with GOV mode and the head speed picks up additional speed. It's an audible differance. But 70% seems to be plenty. This is actually where me being lazy and not buying a tachometer is hurting me. I just can't decide which one i want to buy, because the laser one can only be used with a strap down. I suppose the optical ones too are about the same. I guess i need some assistance to tach the head any other way but with audio. Which does seem fairly accurate. Maybe i'll give that a try today and see what it says. Can't wait to get back out there today and get another 5 packs, maybe 6. I'm going to dare to try another battery that i had previously discarded as "bad". So far all of my "bad" packs are working fine. If nothing else but shorter flights. On top of that i'm using this CRC 2-26 electrical lubricant spray i found in my work shop to clean and lube the XT60 plugs on the batteries. The XT60 connectors are lubed and have a thin layer of lube to act as a conductive medium between the two contacts. They slide together SO VERY EASILY now! It was weird at first, but they still hold tight and the male pins do not appear to be compressing any longer. I can only speculate that the insertion friction on the male pin was causing compression at the cross cut in the center. Without that friction on insertion it appears to be remaining springy for now. Hopefully, after everything. I really think this might have the issue solved. How strange to have such a random issue with a motor though, right?


Anyway, if you have the time and are bored. Enjoy these 4 videos from yesterday. Ran out of batteries in the camera for the 5th. But that one went well. By then the wind was very strong anyway and it ended up being a fairly boring flight to watch anyway.


V450d01 - 09-13-12 - Flight 1 (6 min 35 sec)



V450d01 - 09-13-12 - Flight 2 (5 min 23 sec)



V450d01 - 09-13-12 - Flight 3 (5 min 48 sec)



V450d01 09 13 12 Flight 4 (4 min 55 sec)
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Old Sep 14, 2012, 08:50 PM
They call me plan B
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United States, GA, Covington
Joined Mar 2011
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stepping it up!

today i was able to put some sim flying to the real skys.INVERTED PIROS! it was with the 600 because the 450 wont piro level......probably unlevel swash eh? but anyway here you go
walkera v450d01 3d 2650mah battery (6 min 1 sec)



align trex 600 pro 3d flight 41 with 1st ever inverted piros (5 min 53 sec)



DID you hear those blades barking!?!?!?!!


align trex 600 pro 3d 42nd flight (6 min 34 sec)


then it was cloudy and i had a headache so i stopped flying ....no kids , no wife and i had to stop flying lol. DOH
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Old Sep 14, 2012, 09:20 PM
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United States, FL, Palm Coast
Joined Mar 2012
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I always have to wait till later to watch your vids. You tube stops and buffers too much the first time. I wonder if mine have been doing that too?

I got 6 packs in on the v450 today. So far it's very, very, very likely that the TA804 (used) motor i had was causing all of the problems. So the CF blades go back on. I'm going to try the 335 Pro 3d ones you have been using for a little bit. See if they feel any better than the shorter align blades.


Anyway, check this out. Very disappointed here. I received my new swashplates today that i have been waiting nearly 2 weeks for from h e l i p a l. They appeared to be the only place left with the old version in stock.

Well guess what! They sent me the new version! (bastards) Which does actually usually cost almost double the old price of a swash. I really don't like this site though.

Anyway. The "New" version swash plate has additional screws, which appear to be useless and decorative only(bottom of swash set, top set secure the plastic around the ball join). Not sure yet. But it looks like it is pressed and assembled the same exact way as the old ones. One major change is that the center hub surrounding the shaft ball joint is now plastic.... So expect those to wear out on you easier maybe and have less options for lubrication. On top of that, they are very likely to break in a crash it would appear. At least the ball linkages are the same. They are not any longer. It's basically the same swash, just made more cheaply, and charged more for.

I don't understand it. Everyone complains about their servos. Their ESC. Their rudder linkage. Their canopy. Their motor running too hot. The steering rocker not having any bushing to speak of on the bearing. All kinds of things. The listS go on. What do they change?? The swash and rotor head. Which no one had any complaints about, really. At least no big ones. Oh well... /end rant.

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Last edited by IntegrityHndywrk; Sep 14, 2012 at 09:28 PM.
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