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Old Sep 01, 2012, 04:19 AM
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Nice flying!

On the 2nd video when you dropped down by the trees right before you landed, I thought it went in. I couldn't see it anymore, then you came back to land. I went


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Originally Posted by Heli Biggie View Post
Here is me trying some fff. Its a bit scary!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=__mL-...e_gdata_player

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k1Ib3...e_gdata_player

Please enjoy! I try and check all my screws after each session! I have had swash balls pop off before.
2 new trex 600 flights ninja636king@youtube.com
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Old Sep 01, 2012, 09:50 AM
They call me plan B
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United States, GA, Covington
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With good control too!


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Originally Posted by iflyhelis View Post
He did say that in the video.
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Old Sep 01, 2012, 04:43 PM
They call me plan B
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Its been windy all day , so i have been painting , the white is harder to see then the red so i went to yellow, now all heli are yellow again , i also painted the tail fin and stabilizer! Its bright!

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Old Sep 01, 2012, 08:51 PM
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Looks good. You should be able to see that from a distance.
I think I'll paint mine red on the port side, and green on the starboard side.
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Old Sep 01, 2012, 09:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iflyhelis View Post
I would like to give you a few things or food for thought.

When you forced the ball link screw into the plastic servo arm & it turned white/whiter that did stress that plastic & weaken it. I failed to mention that when you first posted what you had done.

You really don't need to tap out the aluminum or plastic servo horns for 2MM just drill it out big enough for the ball screw to slide in there tightly, and put a nut on it, if it is long enough then put two nuts on it and do like we all use to do & jam the two nuts together. To feel safer put a drop of CA glue or red loktite on the two nuts. A little heat from a soldering iron or a cigarette lighter for removal. I use to lose my O.S. 61 exhaust cones because the nut would fall off in flight. After jamming two nuts on there I never lost another part off of that muffler again.

Actually, i've crashed it 2 times since my last pictures and they never break where the screw is, always closer to the base of the horn. So this is working out... I'm not sure why i bought replacement gears? I should have invested in more horns instead. Also they are not long enough to reach though the back of the servo horns. That is why the aluminum ones need to be tapped out for the 2mm ball link. The reason for trying the aluminum ones in the first place would be to eliminate the need to put a nut on, that simply won't fit on because the ball link is not long enough in the first place. So maybe taping an aluminum horn and using thread lock would hold it firmly without any worries. Though the problem with the aluminum horns is they will transfer more damage to the servo gears and will likely bend beyond repair also in a crash. After thinking about it, i'd rather stick with these brittle plastic horns. $3 each instead of $10 each for servo gears. It's just better that way.

What is NOT working out is these Turnigy batteries. They don't give any sign of wear or anything. IN FACT!! they are all brand new batteries because i threw away ALL of my old ones that were causing me these exact same problems! They fly 5 minute flights, and show no signs of wear. Then all of a sudden you go into a roll or a flip and think you lost a ball link or something, but what it really was, was a battery failure. Knowing my pack labeled #4 was the pack that had caused the first crash. The crash that destroyed the once nice & newly painted canopy I showed in my last picture with the other previously destroyed canopy next to it. Well now both are busted up! Anyway, knowing that #4 pack was the one i used when i crashed last. I saved that pack for the end of the day. I checked it twice for any signs of being bad. It did not self discharge and was staying perfectly charged and balanced at 4.2v just like all my other Turnigy packs that had previously gone bad! So after flying 5 other packs, also all new turnigy packs purchased at the same time! I poped in that #4 pack. I flew for a minute doing fairly aggressive pitch pumps while trying to stay level in case of failure. Everything seemed fine until about 2 minutes into the pack and all of a sudden the motor cut off while i was inverted! Well, thats another pack in the trash! It would be nice if they showed any signs of going bad, like shorter flights or something. But to hold a full charge, fly a full flight one day, then the very next day you do a roll or something and the whole heli shuts down! Just sudden spikes in low voltage i suppose. It's very annoying at this point. I suppose i have to start buying more expensive batteries. Maybe Pulse or something, i don't know. I'm pretty sick of this issue though.


Oh, and for those interested. Or for who ever was asking about the blades. I flew on the stock blades today and they were much more stable in the air than the Align blades. But they also were not as nimble. They didn't flip as fast as the align blades did. but the heli did seem to fly a lot nicer over all for normal flight. For 3d the align blades will be the better pick. I also have managed to confirm that the blue CF material blades are in fact more flexible than the black. In one of my recent crashes with them, they simply bent and slit in the middle on both blades rather than snap and break like the harder, more rigid black CF usually would do. After they split i am able to actually flex the top and bottom ply of the blade quite a bit in comparison to the black blades. They are also a few dollars cheaper. But are still very responsive in flight, i think anyway. At the least they are better than the FRP blades.
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Old Sep 02, 2012, 03:54 AM
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I was going to say that you might be able to find longer threaded balls, but from what you are saying about cost of damage, you are best off the way you are setup now.

Ack! Don't tell me bad things about the Turnigy batteries I just ordered 3 3,000 Mah 40C batteries from HobbyKing's USA warehouse. I knew you had some battery issues, but I didn't think you were getting problems with that brand.

If you are looking for a different brand of battery, I am using Storm 2200 Mah 20C batteries & have not had a problem other than short flight time 5-6 minutes. Not sure if they are available in the USA, I paid $24.90 each for them. I'll check & see if they are available, if you have to buy them from Hong Kong the shipping costs wouldn't be worth it.

You know, I think it is time for you to rebuild that heli & put it & the transmitter up for sale on Craigslist. Then buy something else that suits you.

Can I interest you in a nice Raptor 30 nitro heli? It has all the upgrades in it, I paid $1,200.00 for it without the RX/Gyro/MG servos. It flies for 12-15 minutes on a tank of fuel.


Quote:
Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk View Post
Actually, i've crashed it 2 times since my last pictures and they never break where the screw is, always closer to the base of the horn. So this is working out... I'm not sure why i bought replacement gears? I should have invested in more horns instead. Also they are not long enough to reach though the back of the servo horns. That is why the aluminum ones need to be tapped out for the 2mm ball link. The reason for trying the aluminum ones in the first place would be to eliminate the need to put a nut on, that simply won't fit on because the ball link is not long enough in the first place. So maybe taping an aluminum horn and using thread lock would hold it firmly without any worries. Though the problem with the aluminum horns is they will transfer more damage to the servo gears and will likely bend beyond repair also in a crash. After thinking about it, i'd rather stick with these brittle plastic horns. $3 each instead of $10 each for servo gears. It's just better that way.

What is NOT working out is these Turnigy batteries. They don't give any sign of wear or anything. IN FACT!! they are all brand new batteries because i threw away ALL of my old ones that were causing me these exact same problems! They fly 5 minute flights, and show no signs of wear. Then all of a sudden you go into a roll or a flip and think you lost a ball link or something, but what it really was, was a battery failure. Knowing my pack labeled #4 was the pack that had caused the first crash. The crash that destroyed the once nice & newly painted canopy I showed in my last picture with the other previously destroyed canopy next to it. Well now both are busted up! Anyway, knowing that #4 pack was the one i used when i crashed last. I saved that pack for the end of the day. I checked it twice for any signs of being bad. It did not self discharge and was staying perfectly charged and balanced at 4.2v just like all my other Turnigy packs that had previously gone bad! So after flying 5 other packs, also all new turnigy packs purchased at the same time! I poped in that #4 pack. I flew for a minute doing fairly aggressive pitch pumps while trying to stay level in case of failure. Everything seemed fine until about 2 minutes into the pack and all of a sudden the motor cut off while i was inverted! Well, thats another pack in the trash! It would be nice if they showed any signs of going bad, like shorter flights or something. But to hold a full charge, fly a full flight one day, then the very next day you do a roll or something and the whole heli shuts down! Just sudden spikes in low voltage i suppose. It's very annoying at this point. I suppose i have to start buying more expensive batteries. Maybe Pulse or something, i don't know. I'm pretty sick of this issue though.


Oh, and for those interested. Or for who ever was asking about the blades. I flew on the stock blades today and they were much more stable in the air than the Align blades. But they also were not as nimble. They didn't flip as fast as the align blades did. but the heli did seem to fly a lot nicer over all for normal flight. For 3d the align blades will be the better pick. I also have managed to confirm that the blue CF material blades are in fact more flexible than the black. In one of my recent crashes with them, they simply bent and slit in the middle on both blades rather than snap and break like the harder, more rigid black CF usually would do. After they split i am able to actually flex the top and bottom ply of the blade quite a bit in comparison to the black blades. They are also a few dollars cheaper. But are still very responsive in flight, i think anyway. At the least they are better than the FRP blades.
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Old Sep 02, 2012, 04:20 AM
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Turnigy

I just cancelled my order Integrity, I looked at my customs invoice & it said it was coming from Hong Kong even though I selected the USA warehouse.

I couldn't cancel it online I had to do a live chat & they canceled it for me.

I had some blades in the order also, oh well, but after your valued input about the batteries I would rather be safe than spend $117.00 for parts & 3 day shipping & find out the batteries croak & crash my helicopter.

$22.95 for the batteries each then shipping, I knew it was too good to be true.

I'll check on those Storm batteries for you, & be right back.

Well it seems that Storm batteries are only sold by "Helipal.com" & they are a re-packaged product from another company. I also found out that this site and Helipal plus about 5 other enities are all registered trademarks of one person named Burke.

Interesting!

I went to "HeliFreaks?" site & didn't get a good feeling about any of the cheap priced batteries. The only one that stands out is "Hyperion" of course they are pricy, but 45C discharge & a 5 C charging rate.

Ron Lund sells Align 2250 Mah @ 40C $42.95 each but out of stock right now same price as the Hyperion 2200 Mah @35C (& I have done business with him for many years) & he stands behind the products. I once seized a brand new gasser engine after 5 minutes of running time & he replaced it for free.

http://www.ronlund.com/
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Old Sep 02, 2012, 04:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk View Post
Actually, i've crashed it 2 times since my last pictures and they never break where the screw is, always closer to the base of the horn. So this is working out... I'm not sure why i bought replacement gears? I should have invested in more horns instead. Also they are not long enough to reach though the back of the servo horns. That is why the aluminum ones need to be tapped out for the 2mm ball link. The reason for trying the aluminum ones in the first place would be to eliminate the need to put a nut on, that simply won't fit on because the ball link is not long enough in the first place. So maybe taping an aluminum horn and using thread lock would hold it firmly without any worries. Though the problem with the aluminum horns is they will transfer more damage to the servo gears and will likely bend beyond repair also in a crash. After thinking about it, i'd rather stick with these brittle plastic horns. $3 each instead of $10 each for servo gears. It's just better that way.

What is NOT working out is these Turnigy batteries. They don't give any sign of wear or anything. IN FACT!! they are all brand new batteries because i threw away ALL of my old ones that were causing me these exact same problems! They fly 5 minute flights, and show no signs of wear. Then all of a sudden you go into a roll or a flip and think you lost a ball link or something, but what it really was, was a battery failure. Knowing my pack labeled #4 was the pack that had caused the first crash. The crash that destroyed the once nice & newly painted canopy I showed in my last picture with the other previously destroyed canopy next to it. Well now both are busted up! Anyway, knowing that #4 pack was the one i used when i crashed last. I saved that pack for the end of the day. I checked it twice for any signs of being bad. It did not self discharge and was staying perfectly charged and balanced at 4.2v just like all my other Turnigy packs that had previously gone bad! So after flying 5 other packs, also all new turnigy packs purchased at the same time! I poped in that #4 pack. I flew for a minute doing fairly aggressive pitch pumps while trying to stay level in case of failure. Everything seemed fine until about 2 minutes into the pack and all of a sudden the motor cut off while i was inverted! Well, thats another pack in the trash! It would be nice if they showed any signs of going bad, like shorter flights or something. But to hold a full charge, fly a full flight one day, then the very next day you do a roll or something and the whole heli shuts down! Just sudden spikes in low voltage i suppose. It's very annoying at this point. I suppose i have to start buying more expensive batteries. Maybe Pulse or something, i don't know. I'm pretty sick of this issue though.


Oh, and for those interested. Or for who ever was asking about the blades. I flew on the stock blades today and they were much more stable in the air than the Align blades. But they also were not as nimble. They didn't flip as fast as the align blades did. but the heli did seem to fly a lot nicer over all for normal flight. For 3d the align blades will be the better pick. I also have managed to confirm that the blue CF material blades are in fact more flexible than the black. In one of my recent crashes with them, they simply bent and slit in the middle on both blades rather than snap and break like the harder, more rigid black CF usually would do. After they split i am able to actually flex the top and bottom ply of the blade quite a bit in comparison to the black blades. They are also a few dollars cheaper. But are still very responsive in flight, i think anyway. At the least they are better than the FRP blades.

With the Ice 50 and other ESC's with this function, you can download your flight data and see exactly what the performance of your equipment was during the flight, including the battery.
You get a good picture of it's output and when looking at the downloaded graf on your lap top after a flight you can easily see how the battery is holding during heavy power requirements because you can also see collective position/throttle position as well.
Great tool for monitoring your battery output and picking out the poor performing batteries before they start failing in flight.
For those batteries that fall short of performance on a regular basis you can mark for normal flights only or bench work and not use them for 3D.
The graf will tell you if you had a battery issue that caused the crash or maybe something else.
Short of putting each battery on a load in the shop to check performance after a period of time to see if they are failing, the downloaded data from the ESC is much better.

Viking
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Old Sep 02, 2012, 11:18 AM
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United States, FL, Palm Coast
Joined Mar 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iflyhelis View Post
I was going to say that you might be able to find longer threaded balls, but from what you are saying about cost of damage, you are best off the way you are setup now.

Ack! Don't tell me bad things about the Turnigy batteries I just ordered 3 3,000 Mah 40C batteries from HobbyKing's USA warehouse. I knew you had some battery issues, but I didn't think you were getting problems with that brand.

If you are looking for a different brand of battery, I am using Storm 2200 Mah 20C batteries & have not had a problem other than short flight time 5-6 minutes. Not sure if they are available in the USA, I paid $24.90 each for them. I'll check & see if they are available, if you have to buy them from Hong Kong the shipping costs wouldn't be worth it.

You know, I think it is time for you to rebuild that heli & put it & the transmitter up for sale on Craigslist. Then buy something else that suits you.

Can I interest you in a nice Raptor 30 nitro heli? It has all the upgrades in it, I paid $1,200.00 for it without the RX/Gyro/MG servos. It flies for 12-15 minutes on a tank of fuel.

Don't get me wrong. The Turnigy packs have been working great, when they are working. But it seems like they don't give any signs and just shut down in flight all of a sudden. I even use a on-board battery alarm set for 3.6v and it never goes off during this type of failure. Like i said the one battery in question is literally only a week or 2 old. All the rest work fine. However my last series of malfunctions i was blaming on ESC settings sucking the batteries dry. When it just ended up being bad timing that i got a new ESC just when 2 of my turnigy packs were going bad and i couldn't tell any signs of a bad battery. There is no puffing, the pack is still hard and firm. The voltage stays at 4.2 or the last balanced voltage. Usually they self discharge when they are going bad. At least a volt or 2.

I hate to rain on your parade. I sincerely hope that the bigger "Storm" batteries are better than the little ones for the V120. But i have seen nothing but bad reviews for the small 700-950 mAh packs from "h e l i p a l". The main complaint is quick degradation of cells. I have personally experianced this issue of complaint as well. On top of that, the only "Japanese technology" these batteries are sporting is a nice looking yellow wrapper. Because they are actually cheap random assortment batteries with a yellow jacket put on them. Some of them will not even have the right specs printed on them when you open the yellow wrapper. I got lucky and all of mine were printed as labeled on the yellow wrapper. But the batteries themself did not last very long. After about the first 5-10 flights they hardly would fly for more than 3 minutes. I still have them but their flight time is horrible so i just use them for bench work.




The bigger packs may be better as far as how many cycles it will take before degrading in flight time. But i would keep an eye on them. However, i would expect the flight times to degrade. Not just shut your helicopter off like these turnigy packs "appear" to be doing to me. So that is what lipo packs should do before going bad. Just the quality of the electrolyte used will determine how many charge cycles they can take. Apparently Turnigy is using a quality electrolyte but there must be a problem with the anode & cathode making contact and transferring ions. It's probably a QC issue, as it is usually the case with these kind of things.


Thanks for the offer but i have no interest in gassers. They are too messy and loud. I purposefully avoided the RC world until recently because of the gassers. Now that we have invaded Afghanistan and are plundering their lithium for batteries, grease, and anti-psychotic drugs to put in our water supply. So, now with Lithium powered batteries(a 40+ year old technology we didn't have the resources to mass produce till now) we can all enjoy the benefits of rapid discharge cells that also take a fairly fast charge. This is what has brought the RC world into the light of electric power, and me along with it. The gassers are just too much stuff to mess with. Not to mention all the goo getting all over the inside of my car's leather.

About those batteries again, because i just got to your second post. Yes, apparently you have found out the same thing i did about the Storm products. They are exclusive to that web site, who i have bought a lemon helicopter from and would limit my purchases to parts only from them. Yes, Hyperion and Align packs are known to be good for $40-50 each. I've been paying 8-10 each for the Turnigy 20-30C packs. But obviously that has not been working out. But honestly, $40 is way over priced! I could buy 3 1S packs and build my own packs for less. And don't think i havn't been considering it. But i'd rather find a decent supply of packs under $30 each. Since i fly 5-6 packs a day some times, having to replace 6 packs right off the bat... I could buy a new heli.. At this rate, gasser are starting to look good.


One last caveat that you may not understand about me. I actually enjoy being able to troubleshoot and report back issues and findings. Hopefully in an effort to save others the trouble. But the thing is... Usually by this point I would say i've upgraded the thing and it's flying awesome! But this one just seems to have one issue after another. While i would love to sell the v450. I doubt i'm going to get the $500 or so dollars it would be worth to me to sell right now after everything. Thats what i mean by no one would want it. Even though it has $200 or so in upgraded electronics... I don't know what it would be worth. It would have more entertainment value to me to pour thermite on it and record the reaction! But who knows maybe i'll list the sucker up on Ebay and see what happens. I really have had my eyes set on an Gaui X5. But the cost on that is outragous right now, i simply can't afford to go buy a $300 new TX and a $240 RX (because i want a DX8 and a AR7200BX) then buy a $800 heli kit to go with them. Now were talking about a whole new realm. On top of that, one crash is likely to cost me over $100. But maybe it has come to the point where my actual piloting ability has surpassed my heli. Perhaps with a quality helicopter my only crashes will actually be MY FAULT. Unlike the v450 which has only ever hit the dirt due to some kind of electronics failure. I push the limits with my smaller helicopters and crash because i'm pushing the limits of my abilities. I can't even do that with the v450, never have been able to. I've always felt like i had to baby the thing. I'm going to go fly 4 packs today... because thats all the packs i have left out of my original 10 turnigy packs and 1 stock pack. At least that i feel comfortable using. I still have the stock pack but it puffs too much and only flies for 4 minutes or so. But it sure the hell don't just shut down in flight. I also want to note that 2 of the 10 Turnigy packs were basically bad on the first day. Either after charging or discharging them the first time. One puffed and the other was not holding a charge and auto-discharging.

I think i'll be trying these next : http://helidirect.com/plu35-22503-pu...es-p-26548.hdx


You know what though, i can't help but think that the Turnigy Nano packs are probably better made. I mean, i was buying their cheapest 3S pack at like $9 or something each. So hopefully my 40-50C one that i paid like $17 for will last, and so far has been lasting for quite a few weeks and at least 20 cycles. Helibiggie is also flying turnigy 40C packs i think and so far no issues with his yet.
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Old Sep 02, 2012, 03:07 PM
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Are you breaking in the batteries with 5 to 10 shallow discharge/charge cycles?
If so, then go with 40C batteries. They're the only ones I trust.

I set my alarm to 3.7v, and I usually bring it in about 20 to 30seconds after the alarm goes off.
It shows 11.3 v on the alarm, with the motor stopped, but the voltage actually goes down to 10.8 v briefly before it lands.
When I recharge the batteries, the charger shows 11.3 v before the charge cycle starts.
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Old Sep 02, 2012, 05:31 PM
They call me plan B
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Joined Mar 2011
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I noticed that the turnigy pack die faster , but the have more punch power!
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Old Sep 02, 2012, 05:31 PM
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Integrity, I read your response, I will comment in full after I cook supper on the grill tonight.

You are spot on! with all of the crap! I will expand later.

If you don't mind, how old are you? I'm 65, & I might not live past that if I keep flying helicopters.

Only kidding!

Hey the gassers are clean, it is the nitro's that are oily.

More later.

Kurt

BTW I am uploading a youtube video as we speak.......




Quote:
Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk View Post
Don't get me wrong. The Turnigy packs have been working great, when they are working. But it seems like they don't give any signs and just shut down in flight all of a sudden. I even use a on-board battery alarm set for 3.6v and it never goes off during this type of failure. Like i said the one battery in question is literally only a week or 2 old. All the rest work fine. However my last series of malfunctions i was blaming on ESC settings sucking the batteries dry. When it just ended up being bad timing that i got a new ESC just when 2 of my turnigy packs were going bad and i couldn't tell any signs of a bad battery. There is no puffing, the pack is still hard and firm. The voltage stays at 4.2 or the last balanced voltage. Usually they self discharge when they are going bad. At least a volt or 2.

I hate to rain on your parade. I sincerely hope that the bigger "Storm" batteries are better than the little ones for the V120. But i have seen nothing but bad reviews for the small 700-950 mAh packs from "h e l i p a l". The main complaint is quick degradation of cells. I have personally experianced this issue of complaint as well. On top of that, the only "Japanese technology" these batteries are sporting is a nice looking yellow wrapper. Because they are actually cheap random assortment batteries with a yellow jacket put on them. Some of them will not even have the right specs printed on them when you open the yellow wrapper. I got lucky and all of mine were printed as labeled on the yellow wrapper. But the batteries themself did not last very long. After about the first 5-10 flights they hardly would fly for more than 3 minutes. I still have them but their flight time is horrible so i just use them for bench work.




The bigger packs may be better as far as how many cycles it will take before degrading in flight time. But i would keep an eye on them. However, i would expect the flight times to degrade. Not just shut your helicopter off like these turnigy packs "appear" to be doing to me. So that is what lipo packs should do before going bad. Just the quality of the electrolyte used will determine how many charge cycles they can take. Apparently Turnigy is using a quality electrolyte but there must be a problem with the anode & cathode making contact and transferring ions. It's probably a QC issue, as it is usually the case with these kind of things.


Thanks for the offer but i have no interest in gassers. They are too messy and loud. I purposefully avoided the RC world until recently because of the gassers. Now that we have invaded Afghanistan and are plundering their lithium for batteries, grease, and anti-psychotic drugs to put in our water supply. So, now with Lithium powered batteries(a 40+ year old technology we didn't have the resources to mass produce till now) we can all enjoy the benefits of rapid discharge cells that also take a fairly fast charge. This is what has brought the RC world into the light of electric power, and me along with it. The gassers are just too much stuff to mess with. Not to mention all the goo getting all over the inside of my car's leather.

About those batteries again, because i just got to your second post. Yes, apparently you have found out the same thing i did about the Storm products. They are exclusive to that web site, who i have bought a lemon helicopter from and would limit my purchases to parts only from them. Yes, Hyperion and Align packs are known to be good for $40-50 each. I've been paying 8-10 each for the Turnigy 20-30C packs. But obviously that has not been working out. But honestly, $40 is way over priced! I could buy 3 1S packs and build my own packs for less. And don't think i havn't been considering it. But i'd rather find a decent supply of packs under $30 each. Since i fly 5-6 packs a day some times, having to replace 6 packs right off the bat... I could buy a new heli.. At this rate, gasser are starting to look good.


One last caveat that you may not understand about me. I actually enjoy being able to troubleshoot and report back issues and findings. Hopefully in an effort to save others the trouble. But the thing is... Usually by this point I would say i've upgraded the thing and it's flying awesome! But this one just seems to have one issue after another. While i would love to sell the v450. I doubt i'm going to get the $500 or so dollars it would be worth to me to sell right now after everything. Thats what i mean by no one would want it. Even though it has $200 or so in upgraded electronics... I don't know what it would be worth. It would have more entertainment value to me to pour thermite on it and record the reaction! But who knows maybe i'll list the sucker up on Ebay and see what happens. I really have had my eyes set on an Gaui X5. But the cost on that is outragous right now, i simply can't afford to go buy a $300 new TX and a $240 RX (because i want a DX8 and a AR7200BX) then buy a $800 heli kit to go with them. Now were talking about a whole new realm. On top of that, one crash is likely to cost me over $100. But maybe it has come to the point where my actual piloting ability has surpassed my heli. Perhaps with a quality helicopter my only crashes will actually be MY FAULT. Unlike the v450 which has only ever hit the dirt due to some kind of electronics failure. I push the limits with my smaller helicopters and crash because i'm pushing the limits of my abilities. I can't even do that with the v450, never have been able to. I've always felt like i had to baby the thing. I'm going to go fly 4 packs today... because thats all the packs i have left out of my original 10 turnigy packs and 1 stock pack. At least that i feel comfortable using. I still have the stock pack but it puffs too much and only flies for 4 minutes or so. But it sure the hell don't just shut down in flight. I also want to note that 2 of the 10 Turnigy packs were basically bad on the first day. Either after charging or discharging them the first time. One puffed and the other was not holding a charge and auto-discharging.

I think i'll be trying these next : http://helidirect.com/plu35-22503-pu...es-p-26548.hdx


You know what though, i can't help but think that the Turnigy Nano packs are probably better made. I mean, i was buying their cheapest 3S pack at like $9 or something each. So hopefully my 40-50C one that i paid like $17 for will last, and so far has been lasting for quite a few weeks and at least 20 cycles. Helibiggie is also flying turnigy 40C packs i think and so far no issues with his yet.
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Old Sep 02, 2012, 08:16 PM
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Mali, Tombouctou, Timbuktu
Joined Aug 2012
391 Posts
For the Guys who are looking for some good quality and reasonably priced Lipos, you should give Gens Ace some serious consideration.
I trust these in my power hungry Gaui x5 and Mikado, and also use them in my V400d02.
They're quite cheap, have shown great results compared to tests with Lipos twice the cost, have low IR, and seem to remain cooler than other packs.
Have a read of these test results. It makes for interesting reading and is one of the parameters that persuaded me to buy them.
BTW, Tareq Alsaadi also uses Gens Ace packs and really abuses them with His style of flying.
http://www.giantshark.co.uk/forum/vi...p?f=121&t=7579
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Old Sep 03, 2012, 03:25 AM
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United States, MA, Norton
Joined Aug 2012
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A link of my first video flying a little in some wind, the camera work stunk & I flew horrible.

450D01 V2 (6 min 46 sec)
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Old Sep 03, 2012, 03:36 AM
Team WarpSquad
Japan, Tokyo
Joined Jun 2011
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Originally Posted by iflyhelis View Post
A link of my first video flying a little in some wind, the camera work stunk & I flew horrible.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b6ckS...feature=colike
My advice... get another couple of canopies and paint one yellow/orange.

Otherwise good job.
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