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Old Jul 22, 2012, 11:15 PM
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IntegrityHndywrk's Avatar
United States, FL, Palm Coast
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Torch8 View Post
Forgot to me that I'm using Savox for cyclic servos. Maybe the Savox burned up my ESC? My swashmix is 40,40 and 45. Just setup v450d01 with a replacement V2702.
Something like that. How old is the ESC and how long have you used Savox? I'd bet it's just more like your Walkera ESC reached the end of it's lifespan.
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Old Jul 22, 2012, 11:17 PM
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ESC and V450d01 was brought used. Savox I got them few months back but never got it going until now.
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Old Jul 22, 2012, 11:21 PM
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Joined Oct 2009
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The advance timing should be set to Low (0) and PWM 8Khz for a 6 Pole motor, thats the general consensus from reading the castle forums and peoples experiences with the ICE50 using a typical 3500kv 6 pole 450 size motor.

As far as the HobbyWing ESC, run 8khz PWM and a low (0) advanced timing, with Gov mode disabled.

The MCU on both ESC's should self adjust the timing within range of Low - Med - High. If the timing is too advanced the ESC will get hot and flight times will suffer due to inefficiency.
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Old Jul 23, 2012, 12:14 AM
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United States, FL, Palm Coast
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Torch8 View Post
ESC and V450d01 was brought used. Savox I got them few months back but never got it going until now.
If you just started using the Savox servos and the ESC burned out on you shortly after. There is a possibility the new servos created a situation in which the ESC burned out. It is also possible the heat outdoors contributed and there was a multiplying effect. Or that the Servos + the summer heat.....Well, you can only speculate based on the time line. I also bought a used v450 and the ESC was smoking on it's 2nd pack. I did get another stock one hoping it was just bad luck.....It really wasn't bad luck.... Good luck whatever you decide to do!


Quote:
Originally Posted by HeliFlyer711 View Post
The advance timing should be set to Low (0) and PWM 8Khz for a 6 Pole motor, thats the general consensus from reading the castle forums and peoples experiences with the ICE50 using a typical 3500kv 6 pole 450 size motor.

As far as the HobbyWing ESC, run 8khz PWM and a low (0) advanced timing, with Gov mode disabled.

The MCU on both ESC's should self adjust the timing within range of Low - Med - High. If the timing is too advanced the ESC will get hot and flight times will suffer due to inefficiency.
Thank you! I have been using 8khz PWM. I have gone though every setting with timing with varying results today. I will try 0 again on your recommendation. To clarify, are you suggesting that Gov mode should not be used on this ESC?

Just curious what kind of flight times you guys are getting?
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Old Jul 23, 2012, 03:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk View Post
If you just started using the Savox servos and the ESC burned out on you shortly after. There is a possibility the new servos created a situation in which the ESC burned out. It is also possible the heat outdoors contributed and there was a multiplying effect. Or that the Servos + the summer heat.....Well, you can only speculate based on the time line. I also bought a used v450 and the ESC was smoking on it's 2nd pack. I did get another stock one hoping it was just bad luck.....It really wasn't bad luck.... Good luck whatever you decide to do!




Thank you! I have been using 8khz PWM. I have gone though every setting with timing with varying results today. I will try 0 again on your recommendation. To clarify, are you suggesting that Gov mode should not be used on this ESC?

Just curious what kind of flight times you guys are getting?

Thanks IntegrityHndywrk, I'm going try using another stock ESC from thwaitm. It was under 90 degrees, think its just bad ESC electronics. Even my throttle curves was low because I wanted to just my test my newly reconfigured V2702 setup. So I was not even maxing the servo cyclics, since heli was on the ground with blades just starting to spend. Heli never got chance to take off. Burning smoke happened between point 1 and 2 on Throttle/pitch curve.
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Old Jul 23, 2012, 04:15 PM
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Confused, big time confused.

I quite...again....doesn't have the same impact second time around.

New swash showed up and installed.
Rigged complete system...perfectly.
Checked all flight control rigging for proper direction of travel both with stick input and by pitch, roll and yaw gyro input...all movement correct direction.
Take it outside for new battery break in short hover.
Bind TX and RX.
Advance throttle, RPM comes up perfectly.
Bring collective up to flat pitch.
Check all controls for correct rotor response in fore and aft and roll cyclic and yaw for anti torque.
Both rotors respond perfectly.
Bring up collective until grass starts to blow and light on the skids, check rotor response one more time, reacts perfectly.
Gently bring in more collective for hover, ship just breaks ground and immediately rolls hard right smashing itself on the ground and commences the Curly Shuffle.
What the ....!
Bring it back inside, power it back up and guess what all the controls respond perfectly to stick commands and gyro commands.
So please tell me, I am completely stumped, what is my problem.
All of the new servos were set up with all available instruction carefully and again it works perfectly on the bench.
I had the correct model selected on the TX...I got that tee shirt once flying my M120 and D05 on the same day.
The parts that were destroyed...blades, mast, tail boom, main drive gear and canopy, sure was glad they were all new, I don't like crashing old crap.
One of the new servos may have a gear issue now also.
TX settings still on the old servo settings with gyro 80 and 40/40/50 SWATS just as they were with the old servos.
I did have to change some reverse settings and swap some servo cannon plugs but again everything worked perfectly on the bench and hand held.

Yes, I feel like an idiot...what am I missing?

Getting poorer Viking
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Old Jul 23, 2012, 08:21 PM
They call me plan B
Heli Biggie's Avatar
United States, GA, Covington
Joined Mar 2011
2,323 Posts
I feel for you. I tipped mine after putting 350.00 in her. But after following heliflyer711 tips word for word. Everything was ok. Till i had some binding in the air. Still not sure what that was. Then one of my ball links came off, in air...this is a rich mans hobby, and thats the only crappy part. I do like fixing them now, and flying makes me feel good . Good luck on giving up for the 3rd time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by A VIKING View Post
I quite...again....doesn't have the same impact second time around.

New swash showed up and installed.
Rigged complete system...perfectly.
Checked all flight control rigging for proper direction of travel both with stick input and by pitch, roll and yaw gyro input...all movement correct direction.
Take it outside for new battery break in short hover.
Bind TX and RX.
Advance throttle, RPM comes up perfectly.
Bring collective up to flat pitch.
Check all controls for correct rotor response in fore and aft and roll cyclic and yaw for anti torque.
Both rotors respond perfectly.
Bring up collective until grass starts to blow and light on the skids, check rotor response one more time, reacts perfectly.
Gently bring in more collective for hover, ship just breaks ground and immediately rolls hard right smashing itself on the ground and commences the Curly Shuffle.
What the ....!
Bring it back inside, power it back up and guess what all the controls respond perfectly to stick commands and gyro commands.
So please tell me, I am completely stumped, what is my problem.
All of the new servos were set up with all available instruction carefully and again it works perfectly on the bench.
I had the correct model selected on the TX...I got that tee shirt once flying my M120 and D05 on the same day.
The parts that were destroyed...blades, mast, tail boom, main drive gear and canopy, sure was glad they were all new, I don't like crashing old crap.
One of the new servos may have a gear issue now also.
TX settings still on the old servo settings with gyro 80 and 40/40/50 SWATS just as they were with the old servos.
I did have to change some reverse settings and swap some servo cannon plugs but again everything worked perfectly on the bench and hand held.

Yes, I feel like an idiot...what am I missing?

Getting poorer Viking
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Old Jul 23, 2012, 09:59 PM
Team WarpSquad
Japan, Tokyo
Joined Jun 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A VIKING View Post
I quite...again....doesn't have the same impact second time around.

New swash showed up and installed.
Rigged complete system...perfectly.
Checked all flight control rigging for proper direction of travel both with stick input and by pitch, roll and yaw gyro input...all movement correct direction.
Take it outside for new battery break in short hover.
Bind TX and RX.
Advance throttle, RPM comes up perfectly.
Bring collective up to flat pitch.
Check all controls for correct rotor response in fore and aft and roll cyclic and yaw for anti torque.
Both rotors respond perfectly.
Bring up collective until grass starts to blow and light on the skids, check rotor response one more time, reacts perfectly.
Gently bring in more collective for hover, ship just breaks ground and immediately rolls hard right smashing itself on the ground and commences the Curly Shuffle.
What the ....!
Bring it back inside, power it back up and guess what all the controls respond perfectly to stick commands and gyro commands.
So please tell me, I am completely stumped, what is my problem.
All of the new servos were set up with all available instruction carefully and again it works perfectly on the bench.
I had the correct model selected on the TX...I got that tee shirt once flying my M120 and D05 on the same day.
The parts that were destroyed...blades, mast, tail boom, main drive gear and canopy, sure was glad they were all new, I don't like crashing old crap.
One of the new servos may have a gear issue now also.
TX settings still on the old servo settings with gyro 80 and 40/40/50 SWATS just as they were with the old servos.
I did have to change some reverse settings and swap some servo cannon plugs but again everything worked perfectly on the bench and hand held.

Yes, I feel like an idiot...what am I missing?

Getting poorer Viking
That sounds to me like a classic TX settings reversed but Gyro settings not reversed. I don't see a gyro operation check in your list either.

Power it up with the motor disconnected and then tilt the heli forward back left and right. The swash should react to counteract your movement. I suspect in your case it's enhancing the movement.

If it makes you feel any better I did essentially the same thing with a quad I built this weekend. I had two opposing motors switched over in connections and of course, as soon as the gyro feels the tipping it tries to compensate, but because the settings are inverted it compounds the issue and adds more power, increasing the roll rate and adding full power then !!!whack!!! it's upside down trashing the props on the deck...

When I switched them back over and tried again its flew as smooth as silk.

Check my flybarless setup guide, section 10.5.3.

10.5.3 ELEVATOR AND AILERON GYRO FUNCTION NORMAL/REVERSE SETTING

 Step 1: Elevator gyro reverse switch setting
Tilt the helicopter forward and check if the gyro corrects the motion by tilting the swashplate aft. If it tilts to the front move the ELEV GYRO DIP switch to the other position. Re-check that the swashplate now lilts aft.
Tilting the helicopter fore and aft, the gyro tries to keep the swashplate level. If this is not achievable there maybe another problem, please re-check and if the problem persists contact your dealer.



 Step 2: Aileron gyro reverse switch setting
Tilt the helicopter right and check if the gyro corrects the motion by tilting the swashplate left. If it tilts to the right move the AILE GYRO DIP switch to the other position. Re-check that the swashplate now lilts left.
Tilting the helicopter left and right, the gyro tries to keep the swashplate level. If this is not achievable there maybe another problem, please re-check and if the problem persists contact your dealer.
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Old Jul 24, 2012, 06:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thwaitm View Post
That sounds to me like a classic TX settings reversed but Gyro settings not reversed. I don't see a gyro operation check in your list either.

Power it up with the motor disconnected and then tilt the heli forward back left and right. The swash should react to counteract your movement. I suspect in your case it's enhancing the movement.

If it makes you feel any better I did essentially the same thing with a quad I built this weekend. I had two opposing motors switched over in connections and of course, as soon as the gyro feels the tipping it tries to compensate, but because the settings are inverted it compounds the issue and adds more power, increasing the roll rate and adding full power then !!!whack!!! it's upside down trashing the props on the deck...

When I switched them back over and tried again its flew as smooth as silk.

Check my flybarless setup guide, section 10.5.3.

10.5.3 ELEVATOR AND AILERON GYRO FUNCTION NORMAL/REVERSE SETTING

 Step 1: Elevator gyro reverse switch setting
Tilt the helicopter forward and check if the gyro corrects the motion by tilting the swashplate aft. If it tilts to the front move the ELEV GYRO DIP switch to the other position. Re-check that the swashplate now lilts aft.
Tilting the helicopter fore and aft, the gyro tries to keep the swashplate level. If this is not achievable there maybe another problem, please re-check and if the problem persists contact your dealer.



 Step 2: Aileron gyro reverse switch setting
Tilt the helicopter right and check if the gyro corrects the motion by tilting the swashplate left. If it tilts to the right move the AILE GYRO DIP switch to the other position. Re-check that the swashplate now lilts left.
Tilting the helicopter left and right, the gyro tries to keep the swashplate level. If this is not achievable there maybe another problem, please re-check and if the problem persists contact your dealer.
It would seem like that to me also but I checked proper control motion over and over and tilting the nose down the swash tilts back, tilting tail down the swash tilts forward, tilt or roll left the swash rolls right, tilt or roll right the swash rolls left.
Another words the swash does try to stay level no matter what direction the fuselage.
Stick control motion is perfect also.

Let me throw this out there, in setting the servos up I had reset all of the controls "travel adjustments" to 100% and after setting up the servos I did not go back and adjust them down as I had usually done, because of the RX learning the servo travel extensions I didn't think it was nessesary at this stage of setup and if I needed after a few test flight I could always go back and shorten the throws of the servos if I needed.
Gyro settings were set to 80%. But in "Travel Adjustments" I left the gyro at 100% also.
I'm with you though in seeing what had happened the swash was driven hard roll right as soon as the skids left the ground, as I said earlier, in watching the swashplate and rotor disk closely for propper tilt or movement with control stick input it was perfect, it wasn't until it left the ground that it rolled hard.
Light on the skids...perfect control, break ground...roll over.
It would seem the gyro is doing this as a reversal but static on the bench I don't see it.
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Old Jul 24, 2012, 09:06 AM
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HeliFlyer711's Avatar
United States, PA, Philadelphia
Joined Oct 2009
2,221 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by A VIKING View Post
I quite...again....doesn't have the same impact second time around.

New swash showed up and installed.
Rigged complete system...perfectly.
Checked all flight control rigging for proper direction of travel both with stick input and by pitch, roll and yaw gyro input...all movement correct direction.
Take it outside for new battery break in short hover.
Bind TX and RX.
Advance throttle, RPM comes up perfectly.
Bring collective up to flat pitch.
Check all controls for correct rotor response in fore and aft and roll cyclic and yaw for anti torque.
Both rotors respond perfectly.
Bring up collective until grass starts to blow and light on the skids, check rotor response one more time, reacts perfectly.
Gently bring in more collective for hover, ship just breaks ground and immediately rolls hard right smashing itself on the ground and commences the Curly Shuffle.
What the ....!
Bring it back inside, power it back up and guess what all the controls respond perfectly to stick commands and gyro commands.
So please tell me, I am completely stumped, what is my problem.
All of the new servos were set up with all available instruction carefully and again it works perfectly on the bench.
I had the correct model selected on the TX...I got that tee shirt once flying my M120 and D05 on the same day.
The parts that were destroyed...blades, mast, tail boom, main drive gear and canopy, sure was glad they were all new, I don't like crashing old crap.
One of the new servos may have a gear issue now also.
TX settings still on the old servo settings with gyro 80 and 40/40/50 SWATS just as they were with the old servos.
I did have to change some reverse settings and swap some servo cannon plugs but again everything worked perfectly on the bench and hand held.

Yes, I feel like an idiot...what am I missing?

Getting poorer Viking
Hey Viking,
The blade tip/tipover thing with a Flybarless controller can happen when the controls are used on the ground before getting into a hover sometimes. In other words the whole thing with a FL setup is to just throttle up and induce pitch quickly leaving the ground and then put in some correction inputs once in the air. One of the reasons why a smooth running heli with a level swash and a properly CG'd setup is so important, because with those done right the heli should just jump up into a hover and hang there without even touching the sticks.

Once control inputs are put in on the ground though, the FL controller can get confused and although 9 times out of 10 it will still be ok, its not recommended. I've had it happen also where the tips on a 40.00 set of new blades got sheered off and it does suck when it happens. There could also have been a vibe that went into the gyros causing the tipover.

One of the things that can help is a set of training gear either home made or store bought. This will keep the heli from tipping over when doing a setup until you get things ironed out and can be used as a safeguard. The best thing to do once all the bench checks are done and you know the swash is moving in the correct direction on control inputs and on its own with corrections is to just lift off quickly. A lot of the times I dont even like the heli to sit on the ground too long with out getting it up in the air and will rebind just to be sure. Rebind spool up and fly.

Sounds like you were pretty thorough on the setup so the only other thing I can think of was after all the testing maybe rebind and just go for it or get a set of 10.00 training gear and use that as a safeguard until theres a few solid hovers and some confidence in the heli are back.
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Old Jul 24, 2012, 09:24 AM
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HeliFlyer711's Avatar
United States, PA, Philadelphia
Joined Oct 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk View Post
If you just started using the Savox servos and the ESC burned out on you shortly after. There is a possibility the new servos created a situation in which the ESC burned out. It is also possible the heat outdoors contributed and there was a multiplying effect. Or that the Servos + the summer heat.....Well, you can only speculate based on the time line. I also bought a used v450 and the ESC was smoking on it's 2nd pack. I did get another stock one hoping it was just bad luck.....It really wasn't bad luck.... Good luck whatever you decide to do!




Thank you! I have been using 8khz PWM. I have gone though every setting with timing with varying results today. I will try 0 again on your recommendation. To clarify, are you suggesting that Gov mode should not be used on this ESC?

Just curious what kind of flight times you guys are getting?
I get 5 mins on the V450 but thats what the timer is set for, suppose it could get more. I am not familar with HobbyWing gov mode. The gov mode settings arent just in the esc but it has a lot to do with gearing ratios also. Thing is that even with the stock Align 35A esc's like the BL35X or BL35P (50.00 each) which also have a gov mode function, they cause a lot of problems with RPM fluctutions and no one really uses them. One of the reasons why with the bigger kit helis they use Castle ICe v2's either standard or HV. Between Castle, YGE and Kontronic those are the ESC that have a decent gov mode. Most of the economy ESC's although they work great otherwise, dont come with a good enough firmware for a decent gov mode setup though.

Check the forums and see what people are saying about the Hobbywing Platnium Pro's gov mode from those who have tried it. If you want a decent ESC that doesnt cost too much they have the YGE clone ESC at hobbyking. A lot of people like them from what ive read. But for a Kontronic Jazz 40 ESC which would be the top of the line 450 ESC with many different gov mode selections it can cost up to 250.00-300.00 just for the ESC alone new. Thats why most people settle on Castle because its decent and not too expensive.

Try 8khz pwm, low timing and with gov mode off and then turn it on and see what the difference is in flight. Search out the info because maybe someone has found a tweeked setup that works.
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Old Jul 24, 2012, 11:38 AM
Team WarpSquad
Japan, Tokyo
Joined Jun 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeliFlyer711 View Post
One of the things that can help is a set of training gear either home made or store bought. This will keep the heli from tipping over when doing a setup until you get things ironed out and can be used as a safeguard.
Good point HF711. Training gear is definitely a way to minimise a new setup roll over. Hopefully, it should give you enough time to get a little negative collective in early enough to avoid a costly ground flip.

I'm kinda gutted that I wasn't right about the gyro - at least that would have been an easy fix for you Viking...

It brings back memories for me of hovering in my tatami room, getting the skids an inch up and then fwaap - back down. Hand shaking, palms sweating...
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Old Jul 24, 2012, 04:03 PM
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Joined Mar 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeliFlyer711 View Post
Hey Viking,
The blade tip/tipover thing with a Flybarless controller can happen when the controls are used on the ground before getting into a hover sometimes. In other words the whole thing with a FL setup is to just throttle up and induce pitch quickly leaving the ground and then put in some correction inputs once in the air. One of the reasons why a smooth running heli with a level swash and a properly CG'd setup is so important, because with those done right the heli should just jump up into a hover and hang there without even touching the sticks.

Once control inputs are put in on the ground though, the FL controller can get confused and although 9 times out of 10 it will still be ok, its not recommended. I've had it happen also where the tips on a 40.00 set of new blades got sheered off and it does suck when it happens. There could also have been a vibe that went into the gyros causing the tipover.

One of the things that can help is a set of training gear either home made or store bought. This will keep the heli from tipping over when doing a setup until you get things ironed out and can be used as a safeguard. The best thing to do once all the bench checks are done and you know the swash is moving in the correct direction on control inputs and on its own with corrections is to just lift off quickly. A lot of the times I dont even like the heli to sit on the ground too long with out getting it up in the air and will rebind just to be sure. Rebind spool up and fly.

Sounds like you were pretty thorough on the setup so the only other thing I can think of was after all the testing maybe rebind and just go for it or get a set of 10.00 training gear and use that as a safeguard until theres a few solid hovers and some confidence in the heli are back.
I thought about the dynamic roll over issue with dragging a skid tube on the pad just before take off. I usually take the rubber o-rings off the gear as I fly from a rubber pad anyway but on this flight I left them on and after the crash I thought between the rubber skid rings and rubber helipad the two togeather was to tacky creating a short lived sticking of the skid tube during takeoff.
One reason I sneak up on the take off is to insure the rotor is level and not slightly tilted causing a lap full of heli when least expected....skids are level to the ground during the initial pull, one skid is not trying to lift first, tail is corrected, not trying to yaw and I pull collective to a smooth hover. I use the same technique with the M120 and it has never failed me but I do understand the caution with a possible roll over, gyro induced. Every takeoff with the V up to this point was done the same with no issues, just get it up on it's tip toes and pull pitch.
Once the new truck load of parts are recieved I will rebuild, then re-rig starting from zero to include the servos. This time after the checks are complete I will slow everything down to include rotor RPM, not to slow of course but not 3000RPM either, removing it from govenor control and shorten servo travel. In doing so I hope to avoid yet another costly rebuild should another roll over occur.
Sound practicle?
I tell you, I am completly stumped, it looked so perfect in every way before the lift off from hell.
Thanks for the ideas! I'll continue thinking and eventually end up back on the flight line wearing a flack jacket.

Viking
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Old Jul 24, 2012, 07:03 PM
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IntegrityHndywrk's Avatar
United States, FL, Palm Coast
Joined Mar 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeliFlyer711 View Post
I get 5 mins on the V450 but thats what the timer is set for, suppose it could get more. I am not familar with HobbyWing gov mode. The gov mode settings arent just in the esc but it has a lot to do with gearing ratios also. Thing is that even with the stock Align 35A esc's like the BL35X or BL35P (50.00 each) which also have a gov mode function, they cause a lot of problems with RPM fluctutions and no one really uses them. One of the reasons why with the bigger kit helis they use Castle ICe v2's either standard or HV. Between Castle, YGE and Kontronic those are the ESC that have a decent gov mode. Most of the economy ESC's although they work great otherwise, dont come with a good enough firmware for a decent gov mode setup though.

Check the forums and see what people are saying about the Hobbywing Platnium Pro's gov mode from those who have tried it. If you want a decent ESC that doesnt cost too much they have the YGE clone ESC at hobbyking. A lot of people like them from what ive read. But for a Kontronic Jazz 40 ESC which would be the top of the line 450 ESC with many different gov mode selections it can cost up to 250.00-300.00 just for the ESC alone new. Thats why most people settle on Castle because its decent and not too expensive.

Try 8khz pwm, low timing and with gov mode off and then turn it on and see what the difference is in flight. Search out the info because maybe someone has found a tweeked setup that works.
Thanks, i have looked around and even posted a few things here and there asking around. No one has really used this ESC on the v450 that i can find. I'm sure someone has, but it's just not public and easy to find. I tried the 0 advanced timing you suggested. I honestly did not like it. The head speeds were lower than with the stock ESC. I've going though this soooo many times. I really think somewhere between 0 and 11.25 degrees is where the stock walkera ESC is sitting. /shrug.

The problem is that when i switch to idle up from normal mode i can hear a large RPM gain. This has never happened before on the v450. The throttle curve is at 75% at the middle point and goes up to like 90% on the 4th curve point then to 100%. The stock ESC used to run smoothly with no audible RPM change between 75% and 100%. I'm sure the head speed increased but you could not hear it so drastically.


Quote:
Originally Posted by A VIKING View Post
I thought about the dynamic roll over issue with dragging a skid tube on the pad just before take off. I usually take the rubber o-rings off the gear as I fly from a rubber pad anyway but on this flight I left them on and after the crash thought between the rubber skid rings and rubber helipad the two togeather was to tacky creating a short lived sticking of the skid tube during takeoff.
One reason I sneak up on the take off is to insure the rotor is level and not slightly tilted causing a lap full of heli when least expected....skids are level to the ground during the initial pull, one skid is not trying to lift first, tail is corrected, not trying to yaw and I pull collective to a smooth hover. I use the same technique with the M120 and it has never failed me but I do understand the caution with a possible roll over, gyro induced.
Once the new truck load of parts are recieved I will rebuild, then re-rig starting from zero to include the servos. This time after the checks are complete I will slow everything down to include rotor RPM removing it from govenor control and shorten servo travel. In doing so I hope to avoid yet another costly rebuild should another roll over occur.
Sound practicle?
I tell you, I am completly stumped, it looked so perfect in every way before the lift off from hell.
Thanks for the ideas! I'll continue thinking and eventually end up back on the flight line wearing a flack jacket.

Viking
Oh, Viking.... i really feel for you man... Not what i had hoped would happen. I think HF is correct though. These gyros are sensitive to movement when initializing. After you plug that battery in make sure the heli is level and still before it reaches the init. Then try not to move the controls till the heli is in the air. That has always been the formula for me with walkera RX & gyros. I've actually binded up and moved the helicopter slightly by hand then went to fly and had the same outcome you just experienced. This has happened on both my v120 size and my 4f200. Sometimes you just want to fix that wire or whatever. But don't let that be the cause of your gyro going nuts. I sometimes rebind my heli 3 times before I feel comfortable that the binding is correct. The 4f200 has an issue where if you bind it with the gear switch down on the 2801 the swash will not initialize to level and the cyclic will not function properly. So this habit grew out of necessity.
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Old Jul 24, 2012, 07:30 PM
Team WarpSquad
Japan, Tokyo
Joined Jun 2011
2,996 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by A VIKING View Post
....
Once the new truck load of parts are recieved I will rebuild, then re-rig starting from zero to include the servos. This time after the checks are complete I will slow everything down to include rotor RPM, not to slow of course but not 3000RPM either, removing it from govenor control and shorten servo travel. In doing so I hope to avoid yet another costly rebuild should another roll over occur.
Sound practicle?
I tell you, I am completly stumped, it looked so perfect in every way before the lift off from hell.
Thanks for the ideas! I'll continue thinking and eventually end up back on the flight line wearing a flack jacket.

Viking
And don't forget some training gear - even a couple of 50~100cm sticks X'ed through the skids and zip-tied on is enough for hover tests 1 thru 3 - until you are happy she doesn't just want to flip on you.
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