Originally Posted by HeliFlyer711

Can use all the connectors off of the old ESC or buy new ones, the ICE 50 doesnt come with any. But this is a good time to buy one b/c until August Castle is giving out free Castle link USB adapers with the V2 ESC's. So thats like a 25.00 value right there, once you get the ESC just go to the website and enter in the coupon code. In a few days it shows up in the mail and all thats needed is a mini to standard USB cable for full programming on the PC, much easier than the sticks and I can give you some tips on a good setup..... maybe even send you a file over.

BTW motor uses 3.5mm bullets and the battery is the 4mm banana.

Thanks! I'll get it set up.

Viking

My Ice 50 will arrive mid week, looking forward to it.
Viking

Originally Posted by HeliFlyer711

Can use all the connectors off of the old ESC or buy new ones, the ICE 50 doesnt come with any. But this is a good time to buy one b/c until August Castle is giving out free Castle link USB adapers with the V2 ESC's. So thats like a 25.00 value right there, once you get the ESC just go to the website and enter in the coupon code. In a few days it shows up in the mail and all thats needed is a mini to standard USB cable for full programming on the PC, much easier than the sticks and I can give you some tips on a good setup..... maybe even send you a file over.

BTW motor uses 3.5mm bullets and the battery is the 4mm banana.

I have a Phoenix Ice Lite 50. I would like to see those setup tips also.
Thanks

Originally Posted by clearprop88

I have a Phoenix Ice Lite 50. I would like to see those setup tips also.
Thanks

No problem I will add that to the blog.......well its back to the grind tommorow but I managed to get the 2nd vid done today and Utub just informed it is ready for viewing so here is Part B of the RX-2702V setup on the V450 with the 2801-Pro Radio.

Heres a link to the full V450 Mods repairs and Setups Blog;

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1656159

and the Vid.......Hope it clears some things up and helps the guys out that were having some troubles with it.

Walkera V450D01 (Part B) RX-2702V Endpoint Setup for the 2801-Pro Radio (15 min 11 sec)

Thanks Heliflyer711 on v2702 setup. My question, I have savox cyclic servos (similar to Align ), do I still setup swash mix as 70%, 70% and 70% during the V27027 setup, then later change it? I belive another flyer recommend -60,-60 and -40 on the savox cyclic servos?

Originally Posted by Torch8

Thanks Heliflyer711 on v2702 setup. My question, I have savox cyclic servos (similar to Align ), do I still setup swash mix as 70%, 70% and 70% during the V27027 setup, then later change it? I belive another flyer recommend -60,-60 and -40 on the savox cyclic servos?

Hey Torch8,..... for the Align/Savox cyclics; keep the numbers 70,70,70, on the positive side of the swatts menu. After setup If 70,70,70 is too high then go 40,40,50, but stay in the positive side. I have never seen anyone go into negative in the swatts for the V450 setup. The negative setting is for a CCPM setup to get swash directions and servo interactions moving correctly. But the 2702V has Reverse switches on the RX to do this instead.

If you setup the RX Switches and the radio Reverse menu as shown in the pics below and do the setup with 70,70,70 in swatts the same way in the video, it should work no problem.for the V450 on cyclics. Not sure what tail servo is on your V..

Originally Posted by HeliFlyer711

Hey Torch8,..... for the Align/Savox cyclics; keep the numbers 70,70,70, on the positive side of the swatts menu. After setup If 70,70,70 is too high then go 40,40,50, but stay in the positive side. I have never seen anyone go into negative in the swatts for the V450 setup. The negative setting is for a CCPM setup to get swash directions and servo interactions moving correctly. But the 2702V has Reverse switches on the RX to do this instead.

If you setup the RX Switches and the radio Reverse menu as shown in the pics below and do the setup with 70,70,70 in swatts the same way in the video, it should work no problem.for the V450 on cyclics. Not sure what tail servo is on your V..

Tail is stock for now. May change it later. I'm going to try those settings ( when I get replacement V2702 , as my setup button on v2720 flatten out).

All,

In dreaming up modifications for my V450 the number one thing on my hit list is heat both from an ESC and motor point of you. I don't have a large flying area so long high speed passes to cool things down is not an option plus it's summer.
So this is what I have dreamt up to possibly help in cooling things down, a CPU cooling fan mounted up front. Once you collect yourself from laughter please come back to my post and see the photos.
What I have is a Radio Shack CPU Cooling Fan P/N 273-240. The specs are as follows:
40MM square.
12 VDC
Brushless Motor
6500 RPM
Rated current: 130mA max
Rated Power: 1.56W max
Airflow: 7.7CFM
It just so happens that this fan fits in between the battery deck and the lower deck with no modification, that’s right it fits perfectly, no hardware to hold it in, it's clamped firmly between the two decks.
To allow it to breath I have opened up the scoop as pictured, thaks to Demonofpyro for the original idea.
The ICE 50 will mount on the deck in front of the fan which will aid in a near perfect C.G.
There is enough suction from the little fan, that sitting static on the bench with it plugged into my battery, it will draw in and hold a piece of tissue across the intake scoop, disconnect the battery, fan spools down and the tissue falls to the table.
So I know it will draw air and help keep things cooled down at hover or slow airspeeds but the big question in my mind is what impact the little fan will have on my aircraft battery.
I do not fly hard 3D, my skills will not allow it yet and I have limited my flight times to 5 minutes. So will the extra current draw of the cooling fan prevent me from continuing my 5 minute flights, will it be to much for the aircraft battery to handle all at once?
The positives are everything under the canopy will get an exchange of air continually including the battery which may be the only looser in the group because it has to power the fan and the rotors.
So electrical experts, what do you think?
I really would like this to work out just because it's so cool looking, no pun intended.
AUW I will still be close to stock as I have gone through and eliminated a few things that I don't need or things that just didn't make sense to me.

If you think it's ridiculous, please be kind and let me down easy, those who have seen my M120 on that post know I can't leave these helicopters alone, there's always one more good idea out there some where.

Viking

I like it! I doubt that it should make such an impact on flight times. It draws way less current than the main motor. The easier way is to install Align fan main gears but hell this is funny!!

Originally Posted by thwaitm

I like it! I doubt that it should make such an impact on flight times. It draws way less current than the main motor. The easier way is to install Align fan main gears but hell this is funny!!

I have the Align fan gears also but was looking for a way to cool the forward deck where the ESC, motor and battery reside so togeather it has to be way cool, maybe they will work togeather somewhat.

Viking

It might catch a chill!!
One thing though, I would put a couple of cable ties on it just to prevent it coming loose at all.

Originally Posted by thwaitm

It might catch a chill!!
One thing though, I would put a couple of cable ties on it just to prevent it coming loose at all.

It is literally locked between the decks because of the fan housing shape, angle of the battery deck and perfect dimension of the fan housing allowing a slight pinch when installed, I have tugged on it from all angles and it's locked in and will not vibrate. I was really surprised on how well it fit.

Viking

Originally Posted by A VIKING

All,

In dreaming up modifications for my V450 the number one thing on my hit list is heat both from an ESC and motor point of you. I don't have a large flying area so long high speed passes to cool things down is not an option plus it's summer.
So this is what I have dreamt up to possibly help in cooling things down, a CPU cooling fan mounted up front. Once you collect yourself from laughter please come back to my post and see the photos.
What I have is a Radio Shack CPU Cooling Fan P/N 273-240. The specs are as follows:
40MM square.
12 VDC
Brushless Motor
6500 RPM
Rated current: 130mA max
Rated Power: 1.56W max
Airflow: 7.7CFM
It just so happens that this fan fits in between the battery deck and the lower deck with no modification, that’s right it fits perfectly, no hardware to hold it in, it's clamped firmly between the two decks.
To allow it to breath I have opened up the scoop as pictured, thaks to Demonofpyro for the original idea.
The ICE 50 will mount on the deck in front of the fan which will aid in a near perfect C.G.
There is enough suction from the little fan, that sitting static on the bench with it plugged into my battery, it will draw in and hold a piece of tissue across the intake scoop, disconnect the battery, fan spools down and the tissue falls to the table.
So I know it will draw air and help keep things cooled down at hover or slow airspeeds but the big question in my mind is what impact the little fan will have on my aircraft battery.
I do not fly hard 3D, my skills will not allow it yet and I have limited my flight times to 5 minutes. So will the extra current draw of the cooling fan prevent me from continuing my 5 minute flights, will it be to much for the aircraft battery to handle all at once?
The positives are everything under the canopy will get an exchange of air continually including the battery which may be the only looser in the group because it has to power the fan and the rotors.
So electrical experts, what do you think?
I really would like this to work out just because it's so cool looking, no pun intended.
AUW I will still be close to stock as I have gone through and eliminated a few things that I don't need or things that just didn't make sense to me.

If you think it's ridiculous, please be kind and let me down easy, those who have seen my M120 on that post know I can't leave these helicopters alone, there's always one more good idea out there some where.

Viking

130mA draw on that fan will run for like, i unnuh?! like 15 hours or something (just guessing here) if it was the only thing plugged into your v450's battery pack. So it's not going to affect your flight time all too much in normal flight, probably. The real question is. Is it even necessary to have a fan for the castle ice 50?

How are you powering he fan? Are you using the BEC?

Originally Posted by HeliFlyer711

Confirmed,
On a typical Y 120° 3 servo swashplate CCPM setup, Left is AILE, Right is PIT and the Rear is ELEV. Its even shown in the manual that way, though the stock servos control signals seem to work in reverse on the 2702V. Swap out the physical AILE & PIT servo connectors on the RX. If it still doesnt work right change the AILE R/ELEV R. switches (IIRC they are both set to Reverse for stock)). Stock setup in the Reverse Menu of the 2801 radio is 2 & 4 set to REVS, all others normal.

Eventually it should work with the right combination of servo connections, RX switch settings and radio settings. It happened to me awhile back, when I first got the V450, I was sure the RX was bad and even went as far as getting an RMA for it. But it turned out that the problem was just poor documentation on Wlackera's part in the manual.

Many thanks! I'm back in the air again and happy as can be. After what I've been through with my crash, I might fly with a bit more care. I put the training wheels back on for the setup and they may stay on for a few more flights! Thanks again!

Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk

130mA draw on that fan will run for like, i unnuh?! like 15 hours or something (just guessing here) if it was the only thing plugged into your v450's battery pack. So it's not going to affect your flight time all too much in normal flight, probably. The real question is. Is it even necessary to have a fan for the castle ice 50?

How are you powering he fan? Are you using the BEC?

Thanks for the input IntegrityHndywrk!
As far as needing a fan for the Ice 50, I see them advertising it's output based on 5 mph airflow over it so I assume it does like at least a little airflow for proper operation. the motor and battery can always use some air so if the Ice 50 doesn't need it the battery and motor will make good use of the added air.
As far as electrical connection of the fan I was thinking of powering it up directly with the battery conection at the Ice 50. I am going to install some new plugs so I was going to include the fan connections with the new battery connector on the Ice, plug in the battery and the fan runs until the battery is disconnected.

Sound doable?
Viking

Originally Posted by A VIKING

Thanks for the input IntegrityHndywrk!
As far as needing a fan for the Ice 50, I see them advertising it's output based on 5 mph airflow over it so I assume it does like at least a little airflow for proper operation. the motor and battery can always use some air so if the Ice 50 doesn't need it the battery and motor will make good use of the added air.
As far as electrical connection of the fan I was thinking of powering it up directly with the battery conection at the Ice 50. I am going to install some new plugs so I was going to include the fan connections with the new battery connector on the Ice, plug in the battery and the fan runs until the battery is disconnected.

Sound doable?
Viking

Lol, i wasn't thinking straight, it's a 12v fan, of course it's not going through the BEC. If you can solder, i recommend soldering all the connections. But, yes, looks like you will have to add in a split from your battery leads for the fan. Unless the ESC has some type of power bus meant for you to tap into like a fuse box, that is probably your only option. Though, one thing to consider if your going to go though with it. I would monitor the state of each cell on your battery closely. It might just over drain your first cell in the series inside your battery pack. It could also disrupt the flow of DC current by adding resistance in your main power lines, depending on how you wire it.