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Old Apr 29, 2012, 09:55 PM
IHW Heli Division
IntegrityHndywrk's Avatar
United States, FL, Palm Coast
Joined Mar 2012
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Originally Posted by thwaitm View Post
Exactly, those little FETs can get pretty hot and you know what it looks like inside now - just do your best to minimise the chance of a short.
I will do that. The tail servo used to get really hot too.
I'm looking through all of the replacement servo gears for futaba and all those on ebay. There are a lot of servos with cheaper gears to buy to replace instead of the whole servo. Walkera does this for their little 120 size servos I don't understand why the users of bigger more expensive ones have to suffer their wrath. I would think one of the existing servo gear sets would have a matching size plastic gear that will work for this servo.

Also looking at wow hobbies metal gear servos and helipal's 9-9 they appear to have a different part number? Are they actually different servos? The price is a big gap there. Does it even freaking matter anyway if they are different, if the nylon gear is going to strip so easy anyway? And closer inspection of my rotor main gear, like 5 teeth were chewed out of it all in a row. The pinion still bites them ok, but something tells me this will not work out as well as when my v120's gears have a few teeth missing huh??

EDIT:
Looking at the photo of the inside of the 9-9 on wow hobbies web site. The plastic gear is not like mine and not in the same placement. The whole gearing on their servo picture is different from the servo that i have. As well as the protruding gear to attach the servo arm in their photo is brass. Mine is aluminum or tin. Its silver in color, not bronze or gold. I figure the helipal servos are the version 1, 9-9 servos which is what must me installed on my helicopter right now.
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Old Apr 29, 2012, 10:14 PM
Team WarpSquad
Japan, Tokyo
Joined Jun 2011
2,786 Posts
For this heli the SAVOX servos are most commonly recommended ones. They are basically the same as those on the Align 450.
Save up and buy a set of 3...
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Old Apr 29, 2012, 10:46 PM
Making Stock Fly Like Modified
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United States, PA, Philadelphia
Joined Oct 2009
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All that glitters isnt gold ...................

I did a little review of the stock 08/09 servos awhile back side by side comparison. The 09's were bought from wow, I should have drove down the highway and threw 85.00 out the window as the money would have flown longer than the servos did

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...282670&page=52
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Old Apr 30, 2012, 12:09 AM
IHW Heli Division
IntegrityHndywrk's Avatar
United States, FL, Palm Coast
Joined Mar 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeliFlyer711 View Post
All that glitters isnt gold ...................

I did a little review of the stock 08/09 servos awhile back side by side comparison. The 09's were bought from wow, I should have drove down the highway and threw 85.00 out the window as the money would have flown longer than the servos did

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...282670&page=52
luckily I discovered this shorting issue right away when i purchased my new stock ESC because they happily place the RX wires over the fets and caps. Too bad i didn't find it before it was an issue with the original ESC it came with. Closer inspection of my servo that stripped shows the servo wires are not insulated all the way to the solder point and are just flapping around all next to each other. Just crazy this passed QC. I'm taking this downtime as a chance to clean the sand out of the heli. The sand is probably all that saved the blades, other servos, and of course shafts. But in the process I can learn some more about it's mechanics and frame. Maybe even resolder or insulate these servos. I will also be taking apart the head and lubing the thrust bearings and inspecting the dampeners. Also applying loc-tite to all the things i didn't want to loosen before. I'm in it already, if i strip something it might as well be now right? Some advise on the easy way to replace the main gear would be appreciated please. It looks like it might be harder than my 4f200 that has no AR gear. Normally i just pull up the head & shaft and swap it out from the side.
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Old Apr 30, 2012, 12:28 AM
Team WarpSquad
Japan, Tokyo
Joined Jun 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk View Post
Some advise on the easy way to replace the main gear would be appreciated please. It looks like it might be harder than my 4f200 that has no AR gear. Normally i just pull up the head & shaft and swap it out from the side.
That method also works on this one. You probably need to disconnect the swash-servo links but otherwise you should be fine. It comes out either way on this one too since the motor is in the middle (or, on the centreline, to be more precise) of the heli.
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Old Apr 30, 2012, 02:56 AM
mSR,120SR,4G6S,UFLYS,1#A, v450d
Geneva, Switzerland
Joined Oct 2010
134 Posts
Well finally stripped a stock servo (08) while practicing autos with this bird. This is the first damage of any kind I had so far in many flights! I have to say this is one tough animal! I have to check the vids for a good example but sometimes it looked like the bird barely slowed down from full down-coll auto when it hit the ground.... a few times... Check and fly again..and booom again. OK, so these don't float like the 600 class birds. But they bounce! Actually, the stripping only happened finally when I tried some auto from 3 feet up for a soft landing. But uneven ground had different ideas and tipped the bird over while still spinning. That finally did it in.

So, to the point, I happened to have some of these servos from HK and started to fit them: Blue Bird BMS-375DMG

Anybody tried these by chance? They look decent but I didn't gut one to check the innards. Maybe I should... They're not that much cheaper than the Aligns or Savoxes but they were on hand. We'll see I guess.
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Old Apr 30, 2012, 07:42 AM
"Watch this!.... Oh crap"
jhebbel's Avatar
United States, FL, Seminole
Joined Jan 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeliFlyer711 View Post
Ok when you say Align theres about 5 version of the 450 3 or 4 of the 550 600 & 700 .......Which ones were they for, it looks like the 450 Pro. I got a set in my cart and just want to be sure theres enough plastic for the screws to bite into. Im gonna look up in the manual the specs on the pros skids, and match them up to the v450's bottom plate.... Thanks this is a decent cosmetic upgrade and also good for when the heli is up high to see the white for orientation
Sorry for delay, yes these where bagged for the 450 pro, and by enough plastic for screws to bite into im not sure what you mean, but if your worried that there is not enough thread left to bite into v450 frame after passing through struts then my answer is that i had no problem at all even though these struts are slightly thicker, but if by chance for whatever reason your old walkera struts are secured with shorter screws than mine id suggest just counter sinking the screw. I definately like these struts over my stock ones as i sometime have some rough landings because i havent perfected my approach when landing through goggles lol.

here you can see the cutout i had to make to allow the motor to pass through
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Old Apr 30, 2012, 08:29 AM
"Watch this!.... Oh crap"
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United States, FL, Seminole
Joined Jan 2012
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Im hoping someone can answer a question about a project im about to begin, i need to know when using the 2801 tx in trainer/instructor mode which actually does the transmitting, and are the curves and settings of the slave inherited from the master? the reason i ask is im going to build a ground station and id like to gut a 2801 and place it inside so i can have a "co-pilot" make changes as needed in flight, but id also like the ability to hook an external antenna array to the ground station, so if i have a plug on the station that i can jack my (the pilot's) 2801 into through trainer port, can i utilize the base stations tx antenna, also when one remote goes into settings while in flight does that disrupt the second? id just plug two 2801's together and figure this out on my own but i dont want to go through buying a second one if this isnt even possible.
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Old Apr 30, 2012, 08:44 AM
Making Stock Fly Like Modified
HeliFlyer711's Avatar
United States, PA, Philadelphia
Joined Oct 2009
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Nice work, thanks a lot

Quote:
Originally Posted by jhebbel View Post
Sorry for delay, yes these where bagged for the 450 pro, and by enough plastic for screws to bite into im not sure what you mean, but if your worried that there is not enough thread left to bite into v450 frame after passing through struts then my answer is that i had no problem at all even though these struts are slightly thicker, but if by chance for whatever reason your old walkera struts are secured with shorter screws than mine id suggest just counter sinking the screw. I definately like these struts over my stock ones as i sometime have some rough landings because i havent perfected my approach when landing through goggles lol.

here you can see the cutout i had to make to allow the motor to pass through
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Old Apr 30, 2012, 08:59 AM
Team WarpSquad
Japan, Tokyo
Joined Jun 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhebbel View Post
Im hoping someone can answer a question about a project im about to begin, i need to know when using the 2801 tx in trainer/instructor mode which actually does the transmitting, and are the curves and settings of the slave inherited from the master? the reason i ask is im going to build a ground station and id like to gut a 2801 and place it inside so i can have a "co-pilot" make changes as needed in flight, but id also like the ability to hook an extern al antenna array to the ground station, so if i have a plug on the station that i can jack my (the pilot's) 2801 into through trainer port, can i utilize the base stations tx antenna, also when one remote goes into settings while in flight does that disrupt the second? id just plug two 2801's together and figure this out on my own but i dont want to go through buying a second one if this isnt even possible.
The first thing the manual tells you to do is to copy from the Master to the Trainee the model data so I think the curves etc are independent. (99% certain)

I guess, that the Masters TX does the transmitting, logically that would be correct incase say the cord were to disconnect, Trainees TX batteries go flat. (70% but seems logical)

I'm also going to guess that on the 2801 that you can go into settings without it getting weird. Since if you land but don't disconnect the main battery you can fiddle settings as you like. (90% certain)
In training mode... it might be different but I bet the Trainee TX could change while Master TX was flying.

Can anyone actually confirm it though? Who around here has 2x 2801Pros?
You might try 'urrl'. I think he bought a 2nd 2801Pro after the power switch went dicky on one.
And it seems Livonia Bob also has 2 Pros, I'm sure he'd be happy to help.
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Old Apr 30, 2012, 09:24 AM
"Watch this!.... Oh crap"
jhebbel's Avatar
United States, FL, Seminole
Joined Jan 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thwaitm View Post
The first thing the manual tells you to do is to copy from the Master to the Trainee the model data so I think the curves etc are independent. (99% certain)

I guess, that the Masters TX does the transmitting, logically that would be correct incase say the cord were to disconnect, Trainees TX batteries go flat. (70% but seems logical)

I'm also going to guess that on the 2801 that you can go into settings without it getting weird. Since if you land but don't disconnect the main battery you can fiddle settings as you like. (90% certain)
In training mode... it might be different but I bet the Trainee TX could change while Master TX was flying.

Can anyone actually confirm it though? Who around here has 2x 2801Pros?
You might try 'urrl'. I think he bought a 2nd 2801Pro after the power switch went dicky on one.
And it seems Livonia Bob also has 2 Pros, I'm sure he'd be happy to help.
Thanks for the info, i see that about copying settings aswell, if so that kinda takes away the main reason i wanted to do this, but ill keep looking into it.

On another note i made a quick diagram of how to make a cable to plug a GoPro into your VTX so it can be used for both FPV and DVR, if any of you are like me and have a GoPro on-board for recording why not use the quality camera to also be your FPV video feed, quality beats any CMOS camera on the market that ive seen (and ive bought quite a few of them looking for one that made me happy).



Also used my real camera to take some pics of my 450 instead of my crappy phone






Next project is cloverleaf antennas, and i wish ImersionRC would send the next batch of 600mw transmitters, i cant find anybody who has them in stock... very disappointed in immersionRC for not keeping up with market demand...
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Old Apr 30, 2012, 09:58 AM
"Watch this!.... Oh crap"
jhebbel's Avatar
United States, FL, Seminole
Joined Jan 2012
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Finally got the 450 of the ground for a couple short setup hovers, gettin some low rpm vibrations that are prob due to bad blade tracking, and some tail wag which im not sure of yet, no slop or play so prob bad gyro settings.
GOPR3692.MP4 (1 min 49 sec)
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Old Apr 30, 2012, 10:19 AM
Making Stock Fly Like Modified
HeliFlyer711's Avatar
United States, PA, Philadelphia
Joined Oct 2009
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whats the weight on that bird, has to be close to 1,000g's ....no?
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Old Apr 30, 2012, 10:28 AM
"Watch this!.... Oh crap"
jhebbel's Avatar
United States, FL, Seminole
Joined Jan 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeliFlyer711 View Post
whats the weight on that bird, has to be close to 1,000g's ....no?
just weighed it, ur close, im at 947g AUW, seems to handle pretty good even with the extra weight. stock is listed at 768g so my "payload" is 19% of my AUW which isn't bad at all for a CP, obviously im working stuff like motor, esc, and servos a little harder but thats why they have been upgraded.

Perhaps someday ill cnc a more efficient GoPro mounting option instead of the stock housing which weighs even more than the GoPro itself, but this works great for now, besides i like the protection the case gives me.
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Old Apr 30, 2012, 11:58 PM
IHW Heli Division
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United States, FL, Palm Coast
Joined Mar 2012
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Okay, I have some questions as well as some things to show. I think I kinda got a bum deal here with this heli's RX and servos.


First. I was looking at the wow manual and user manual for how to program the RX and all that. Since I'm generally used to the 2618 or smaller RXs that don't quite program the same way. It says that all of the dip switches have to be in the on position. So.. The tabs on 2 of my dip switches look broken off. I didn't mess with them but who else here thinks I'm kinda screwed here? (See picture below)

Second. My rudder rod guide tube appears to be broken in the middle (see picture) The tube pieces are secure, should I just replace it? Also, it broke because the horizontal stabilizer does not secure tightly to the boom. It has machine screws holding the stabilizer rods on. Should these be tapping screws to bite into the boom, like my 4f200, or maybe my machine screws are too short?

Third. This heli was supposed to be a wowhobbies MGS-Pro helicoper. Take a look at the pictures of the servos and gears inside them. Tell me whats up here? Are these really 9-8s or 9-9s? If they are 09-8s will it matter that the single replacement i purchased is a 09-9? Also take a look at the terrible solder job on the servo I stripped in the crash, it had a 1mm or more bare leads on the wire. Plus the solder point. I also took the suggestion of others here and moved the wires around on the good servos so the wires do not short from running hot.

Fourth. After replacing my main gear, the gear base and sleeve were like exploded. Is this normal after a crash? The sleeve was in pieces and the roller bearing in the base fell apart as well. Quite crazy. No pictures of that though. So i looked at my belt. It has some spots where some of the teeth are a little flatter than the rest, but basically still teeth. Should i also just replace this or will it hold out? these teeth are so big compared to my other belt helicopters. I don't want to waste a belt for nothing, and i don't want to crash because of a stupid belt again either.

And lastly, Turns out my FS is an Align. So more than likely the Align dampeners will probably work in this head. I'm still going to try the trueblood green ones. But inspection of mine resulted in like new condition. I'm assuming the previous owner crashed this heli and decided to stop paying for it and sell it.
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