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Old Apr 27, 2012, 07:18 PM
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ok well I figured. this not being on the wire coupled with the esc being in a tangle with the servo's wires as well as running directly along side the tail servo wire. I suppose all could have contributed to my burn out. would be nice if the static was gone now too. ill check that later. this is what I did:
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk View Post
Apphoard, thank you. But now i know the motor is fine. Its a electrical problem. The stock esc is not sufficient enough to keep up with the motor's load. Plus the battery eliminator is pretty poor.

After doing some checking, since my new ESC has arrived. This turbo ace motor can peak a load of 50A easy. Maybe higher on hard pumps. Sometimes for whatever reason my esc starts getting hot right after bind up, so this is not the issue I'm having. The new one bound up fine the first test bind. Did it again and it started getting hot right after the last "ready" signal from the RX. I unplugged right away but i'm not always going to have my fingers on both sides of the esc right after it binds up. So I think there might be another problem since its heating up without running the motor. The stock ESC should hold out if you can keep it cool and not over pump your throttle with this motor. But its just a matter of time due to heat and damage from thermal expansion.

SO to try and protect my $43 stock ESC investment till i can get a 60A hobbywing or other. This is what i have done. When i got my new ESC I immediately opened the back up because instead of changing out the tips i was just going to change out the whole battery leads. Good thing i did, it brought my attention to the RX throttle lead wire and where it was melting on the back where it was pressed up against the capacitors and other components. Looking at my old ESC this could be what was creating a short. The wires melted through to show bare copper and were touching the capacitors and possibly solder joints. So i wrapped it in tape and pulled the RX wire out of the shrink wrap and soldered my new battery leads with the XT60 connectors on. I wrapped up that end with some super 33+ electrical tape from 3M. This tape is high heat tolerant and won't peel off on you. Since i didn't have any thermal putty or glue i used the piece off of my old ESC and plyed it between the stock ESC's aluminum back cooling plate and my own custom cut to size extruded aluminum cooling block. The vents on the block are vertical to catch the down draft from the rotor. Hopefully proving to be an more efficient cooling system. Provided it doesn't bind up "wrong" on me again and just over heat and burn out right away.

And can someone please tell me what the little green ring is for that came with my ESC?
I am no expert but I would say something is definitely wrong somewhere. The green thing is a ferrite ring. It is suppose to keep the esc I think from causing a electrical signal that would interfere with the receiver or other components.

You know when my turbo ace was burning up my esc it was getting hot quick also.it sounds exactly like what was happening to mine.
Maybe try another forum where there are many experienced members. Maybe the HK500 forum. If its getting hot that fast and this is your 2cd esc there is something wrong somewhere. Good luck
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Last edited by Apphoard; Apr 27, 2012 at 07:57 PM.
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 08:00 PM
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 08:37 PM
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well I got the v450 used so who knows how old or how many flights its had. but it sure was strange. if this one goes ill definitely have a better programmable replacement in line. my tail servo is actually a lot less noisy now that the new esc is not tie wrapped to the tail servo wire, and the rest too, all the way to the Rx. its still got noise though, just now its mostly only in the center like the rest of my helicopters. fusonic metal gear replacement is on the way. for $20 its gotta be at least as good as the stock one.
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Old Apr 28, 2012, 03:17 PM
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ok I got 3 good flights on my 450. The ESC cooling block is working nicely. it heats up and cools down quickly after use. the only funny thing i noticed is the tail servo gets HOT. hotter than my esc. it was making a lot of noise when I got the used heli. after replacing the esc I ran the wire separate from the tail servo and other wires. the tail is now making 50% less noise but after running a pack its really hot. I just happens to grab it and the boom to move the heli and thought I burned myself.
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Old Apr 28, 2012, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk View Post
ok I got 3 good flights on my 450. The ESC cooling block is working nicely. it heats up and cools down quickly after use. the only funny thing i noticed is the tail servo gets HOT. hotter than my esc. it was making a lot of noise when I got the used heli. after replacing the esc I ran the wire separate from the tail servo and other wires. the tail is now making 50% less noise but after running a pack its really hot. I just happens to grab it and the boom to move the heli and thought I burned myself.
Check to see if the tail slider is banging against the stops. You may have to reprogram the 2702 to set the tail servo limits.
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Old Apr 28, 2012, 09:01 PM
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Great day in charlotte nc. Had to cancel the meet and fly due to wind. Better luck tomorrow. Please enjoy


walkera v450d01 charlotte nc flight.MP4 (4 min 27 sec)
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Old Apr 28, 2012, 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Heli Biggie View Post
Great day in charlotte nc. Had to cancel the meet and fly due to wind. Better luck tomorrow. Please enjoy


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BL3e0...e_gdata_player
Is that an exi canopy painted or stock? I flew all day over here in Florida myself. We had 35mph gusts and steady 10+ mph winds. Supposed to be worse tomorrow. They were warning beach goers to be careful of wind burn for Christ sakes. My v120d05CS-Pro and v450 handle the wind the best. My 4f200, because of unbalanced blades, loosened or stripped a ball link on the swash and chucked it. YAY. Besides the swash no damage. Surprisingly the wind was not the culprit this time it was my own stubborn desire to fly even though a malfunction is eminent. (what else is new)

I had about 4 great flights on the 450. My tail box started coming apart though. I loc-tite and replaced the screws i lost and went back at it. I'm very scared to try and check the swash for loc-tite because they tend to strip, or so i hear. Hopefully it won't do like my 4f200 above.
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Old Apr 28, 2012, 10:58 PM
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I finally burnt my tail servo. Does anybody have any recommendations on a non stock replacement?
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Old Apr 28, 2012, 11:22 PM
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Originally Posted by LevTor View Post
I finally burnt my tail servo. Does anybody have any recommendations on a non stock replacement?
Here you go, the DS520 is a good mid grade servo and a drop in fit for the V450, They go new for 50 bucks + shipping. I can a new one to you for 40.00 shipped. Im in PA next to you so it would get to you pretty quick. Anyway it's what I use on my V450 and has lasted me coming up on a year now.

The lower cost servos, do the job but ultimately you get what you pay for when it comes to them IMO and experience. Sloppy gear trains, deadband all over the place (noise at idle), and they can run hot on the 2702V's tail sig output, like the stock servo.

The next best one would be the Futaba 9257, which is 60.00, and runs only on 4.8v which is not a problem for the V450 since it runs a 5v stock BEC. These are legit tail servos for 450 a size


http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1641476
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Old Apr 28, 2012, 11:50 PM
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Thanks HeliFlyer. I'll definitely consider this. I will let you know.
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Old Apr 29, 2012, 07:09 AM
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Last edited by LevTor; Apr 29, 2012 at 07:41 AM. Reason: Trip cancelled
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Old Apr 29, 2012, 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by clearprop88 View Post
Check to see if the tail slider is banging against the stops. You may have to reprogram the 2702 to set the tail servo limits.
Gave it a once over last night and noticed that some of the tail box screws were a little loose. The rocker arm was actually flopping around some. Lucky me. Anyway thank you. The servo travel has like a 0.1 or 0.2mm gap at each end of servo travel. I didn't measure it but its a hair gap with no rubbing. I think the rocker arm contributed to the servo heating up. Everything is loc-tite on the tail now. I'm still scared to try and loc-tite the swash balls because of stripping. I have a spare swash, but still.
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Old Apr 29, 2012, 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk View Post
Gave it a once over last night and noticed that some of the tail box screws were a little loose. The rocker arm was actually flopping around some. Lucky me. Anyway thank you. The servo travel has like a 0.1 or 0.2mm gap at each end of servo travel. I didn't measure it but its a hair gap with no rubbing. I think the rocker arm contributed to the servo heating up. Everything is loc-tite on the tail now. I'm still scared to try and loc-tite the swash balls because of stripping. I have a spare swash, but still.
Just get it into a low hover for a few minutes, and then check to see if the tail servo is hot. If it's hot then disconnect the pushrod from the tail pitch slider, and see if it moves freely. There should be no binding. Also check to see if there is any binding in the pushrod guides. Sometimes Locktite gets in the wrong places, and the result is some binding. I saw your discussion on lubricants, so I assume the tail is slippery in all the right places.
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Old Apr 29, 2012, 03:10 PM
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Just get it into a low hover for a few minutes, and then check to see if the tail servo is hot. If it's hot then disconnect the pushrod from the tail pitch slider, and see if it moves freely. There should be no binding. Also check to see if there is any binding in the pushrod guides. Sometimes Locktite gets in the wrong places, and the result is some binding. I saw your discussion on lubricants, so I assume the tail is slippery in all the right places.
I have not actually applied my own lube. But the tail slider and everything without the servo rod attached moves freely. I will apply some teflon or tri-flow like lubricant to it as needed. The only thing I do notice a bend in the alignment of the servo rod guides that attach the guide tube to the boom. Its just a slight bend so the rod can attach to the servo rocker balls. Because it is not a straight line to the tail rocker. It almost seems like the rod would line up better if the ball was on the oppisite side of the servo arm. But looking at stock photos of the heli mine is correct. and the rod moves through it pretty smoothly. Thinking about it now perhaps my tail servo needs a slight twist on the boom to line it up better or something. I suppose this might be an issue.
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