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Old Apr 27, 2012, 11:07 AM
"Watch this!.... Oh crap"
jhebbel's Avatar
United States, FL, Seminole
Joined Jan 2012
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Originally Posted by HeliFlyer711 View Post
What kind of skids are those, I like the white contrast to the black frame........Details?
an ALIGN set i grabbed from the local hobby store, thats why i picked them aswell over the black ones, also more beefy than the walkera ones but you do have to cut out a notch for your motor but thats easy enough, i just took my walkera struts, traced the area to be removed and used a rotory tool to grind it away.
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 11:42 AM
IHW Heli Division
IntegrityHndywrk's Avatar
United States, FL, Palm Coast
Joined Mar 2012
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Originally Posted by jhebbel View Post
when i reported my Turbo ace/ESC issued with them and told them it burnt up my ESC they offered to send me a new one but i declined and went with a better brand name anyway. avoid the walkera esc at all costs, dont want to risk your entire heli over a easy to replace part like an esc...
Yeah, i'm looking at a hobbywing 60A with a switched 3A battery eliminator and a programming card to set it up. Pretty cheap too. Less than i paid for the stock one that it came with and the one i will be receiving today from helidirect for like $40. /sigh. The hobbywing will run me about $32 shipped with the programming card.

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Originally Posted by jhebbel View Post
an ALIGN set i grabbed from the local hobby store, thats why i picked them aswell over the black ones, also more beefy than the walkera ones but you do have to cut out a notch for your motor but thats easy enough, i just took my walkera struts, traced the area to be removed and used a rotory tool to grind it away.
What kind of material is it your grinding? I know some people might know this but safety is worth mentioning: When grinding carbon fiber and plastics wear a dust mask. That stuff is bad news. The fumes from polycarbonate and acrylic as well as other "Plastics" are bad mojo also. I recommend wearing a paint respirator at the least. But always do these cuts out doors, especially the CF. All of these cheap plastics from over seas have less regulation on what they can and cant use. Regardless, all the above mentioned contain dangerous, cancer causing ingredients. Though i suppose if your a smoker your probably used to 4000+ of these kinds of chemicals Just the same, the CF is bad stuff. Always cut it out doors so you don't leave dust behind inside. Its like fiberglass. so protect your whole face too or you might be picking at what you think is a zit for 3 weeks.
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Last edited by IntegrityHndywrk; Apr 27, 2012 at 11:59 AM.
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 11:58 AM
"Watch this!.... Oh crap"
jhebbel's Avatar
United States, FL, Seminole
Joined Jan 2012
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Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk View Post
What kind of material is it your grinding? I know some people might know this but safety is worth mentioning: When grinding carbon fiber and plastics wear a dust mask. That stuff is bad news. Also the fumes from polycarbonate and acrylic as well as other "Plastics" are bad mojo also. I recommend wearing a paint respirator at the least. But always do these cuts out doors, especially the CF. All of these cheap plastics from over seas have less regulation on what they can and cant use. Regardless, all the above mentioned contain dangerous, cancer causing ingredients. Though i suppose if your a smoker your probably used to 4000+ of these kinds of chemicals Just the same, the CF is bad stuff. Always cut it out doors so you don't leave dust behind inside. Its like fiberglass. so protect your whole face too or you might be picking at what you think is a zit for 3 weeks.
Im sure i was exposed to worse in the military, im sure ill live lol.
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 12:08 PM
"Watch this!.... Oh crap"
jhebbel's Avatar
United States, FL, Seminole
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anybody know a place to grab a cheap 5.8GHz airwave/fatshark compatible A/V receiver, all my stuff is foxtech band and i need to get rid of it and swap for fatshark stuff, just need a cheapo to hook to my ground based dvr.
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 12:12 PM
IHW Heli Division
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United States, FL, Palm Coast
Joined Mar 2012
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Originally Posted by jhebbel View Post
Im sure i was exposed to worse in the military, im sure ill live lol.
I didn't completely mention it only for your sake. Some people have no idea, and safety should always be mentioned. Online we often assume people know better or don't know, and we don't care. You know, whatever.

If you were military you sure were exposed to worse I'm sure, if you served in Iraq or Afghanistan. CF is nothing compared to the DU radiation from aerosolized DU munitions fire over the years. Don't take my comments as negative please, and i'm not trying to scare you either. Thank you for your service! My grandfather was a WWII vet and my father a Vietnam vet. Both had and are having health issues from exposure to something or another. Just remember, when/if you need help the VA and DAV will be there for you, for now. At least they seem to help my father a lot because of exposure to Agent Orange.
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 12:23 PM
"Watch this!.... Oh crap"
jhebbel's Avatar
United States, FL, Seminole
Joined Jan 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk View Post
I didn't completely mention it only for your sake. Some people have no idea, and safety should always be mentioned. Online we often assume people know better or don't know, and we don't care. You know, whatever.

If you were military you sure were exposed to worse I'm sure, if you served in Iraq or Afghanistan. CF is nothing compared to the DU radiation from aerosolized DU munitions fire over the years. Don't take my comments as negative please, and i'm not trying to scare you either. Thank you for your service! My grandfather was a WWII vet and my father a Vietnam vet. Both had and are having health issues from exposure to something or another. Just remember, when/if you need help the VA and DAV will be there for you, for now. At least they seem to help my father a lot because of exposure to Agent Orange.
yea my urine glows in the dark, is that normal lol
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 01:48 PM
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Joined Mar 2011
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Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk View Post
This is what I have been afraid of. Except I didn't buy it direct from wowhobbies. I bought it used on ebay. Since wow hobbies would not EXCHANGE my 4g6 tail drive gears i purchased from them (x5, still for sale if anyone needs) for the v120d02S gears i needed since these are not compatible. I some how doubt they will give me any support on this used helicopter. Mostly because they have no way to know it's one of their models or when it was purchased. It would be wonderful for them to give me some support since regardless of where i got my 450 i have spent around $2500+ in their store in the last few months. One would think good business practice would be to give some support anyway. But even if they did, i still doubt they will replace the motor or upgrade the ESC for me. Even more of a problem still they are out of stock. FARTHER adding to my problems is that i don't have a pinion puller/setter so even if i could buy a new one I can't exchange the pinion without possible damage. According to them this motor is better than the align motor, and it's self cooled? We'll see what happens. With any luck the new ESC will be here within the next few hours and i can fly later this afternoon.

EDIT:
Looking at the motor and pinion there is a set screw. Are these also pressed on like the smaller motors? or is the set screw solely relied upon for motor shaft traction to the pinion?
If that's the turbo ace. They are not pressed on.
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 03:31 PM
IHW Heli Division
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United States, FL, Palm Coast
Joined Mar 2012
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To try and protect my $43 stock ESC investment till i can get a 60A hobbywing or other. This is what i have done. When i got my new ESC I immediately opened the back up because instead of changing out the tips i was just going to change out the whole battery leads. Good thing i did, it brought my attention to the RX throttle lead wire and where it was melting on the back where it was pressed up against the capacitors and other components. Looking at my old ESC this could be what was creating a short and made it catch fire! The wires melted through to show bare copper and were touching the capacitors and possibly solder joints. So i wrapped it in tape and pulled the RX wire out of the shrink wrap all together and soldered my new battery leads with the XT60 connectors on. I wrapped up that end with some super 33+ electrical tape from 3M. This tape is high heat tolerant and won't peel off on you. Since i didn't have any thermal putty or glue i used the piece off of my old ESC and plied it between the stock ESC's aluminum cooling plate and my own custom cut to size extruded aluminum cooling block. The vents on the block are vertical to catch the down draft from the rotor. Hopefully proving to be an more efficient cooling system.

EDIT:
I have since installed an Align main gear. This also is supposed to increase air flow over the ESC and motor. Though i have not noticed it running any cooler. The only problem i had with this ESC so far was also a QC problem with Walkera. In the first picture with the capacitors you can just almost see the right capacitors solder joint is not very good. The other side was worse. The capacitor leads were not tinned properly or it was just a sloppy solder job. I should have addressed the issue right away but did not. The cap eventually came free on both sides and the heli went dead in the air! I soldered the cap back in properly and have not had an issue since. Also i have replaced the thermal pastel between my heat sink and the stock cooling plate. It seems to be conducting the heat a little better now but.. /shrug.

Also i have been experimenting with running my tail gyro at a lower %. Running it at 60% or 70% seems to keep the tail servo cooler. I can't tell yet but i think this helps keep the ESC cooler also. In normal flight just doing figure 8s the tail acts just about the same from 60-80%. I have not tried 3D yet so maybe in 3d the gyro needs to be higher but i'm beginning to suspect that wow hobbies recommended 80% might not need to be so high, at least most of the time.
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 04:23 PM
"Watch this!.... Oh crap"
jhebbel's Avatar
United States, FL, Seminole
Joined Jan 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk View Post
Apphoard, thank you. But now i know the motor is fine. Its a electrical problem. The stock esc is not sufficient enough to keep up with the motor's load. Plus the battery eliminator is pretty poor.

After doing some checking, since my new ESC has arrived. This turbo ace motor can peak a load of 50A easy. Maybe higher on hard pumps. Sometimes for whatever reason my esc starts getting hot right after bind up, so this is not the issue I'm having. The new one bound up fine the first test bind. Did it again and it started getting hot right after the last "ready" signal from the RX. I unplugged right away but i'm not always going to have my fingers on both sides of the esc right after it binds up. So I think there might be another problem since its heating up without running the motor. The stock ESC should hold out if you can keep it cool and not over pump your throttle with this motor. But its just a matter of time due to heat and damage from thermal expansion.

SO to try and protect my $43 stock ESC investment till i can get a 60A hobbywing or other. This is what i have done. When i got my new ESC I immediately opened the back up because instead of changing out the tips i was just going to change out the whole battery leads. Good thing i did, it brought my attention to the RX throttle lead wire and where it was melting on the back where it was pressed up against the capacitors and other components. Looking at my old ESC this could be what was creating a short. The wires melted through to show bare copper and were touching the capacitors and possibly solder joints. So i wrapped it in tape and pulled the RX wire out of the shrink wrap and soldered my new battery leads with the XT60 connectors on. I wrapped up that end with some super 33+ electrical tape from 3M. This tape is high heat tolerant and won't peel off on you. Since i didn't have any thermal putty or glue i used the piece off of my old ESC and plyed it between the stock ESC's aluminum back cooling plate and my own custom cut to size extruded aluminum cooling block. The vents on the block are vertical to catch the down draft from the rotor. Hopefully proving to be an more efficient cooling system. Provided it doesn't bind up "wrong" on me again and just over heat and burn out right away.

And can someone please tell me what the little green ring is for that came with my ESC?
Overheating can be caused by your BEC... if your BEC voltage is not correct or your servos are shorting and drawing too much power your burn up too.
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 04:43 PM
Making Stock Fly Like Modified
HeliFlyer711's Avatar
United States, PA, Philadelphia
Joined Oct 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhebbel View Post
anybody know a place to grab a cheap 5.8GHz airwave/fatshark compatible A/V receiver, all my stuff is foxtech band and i need to get rid of it and swap for fatshark stuff, just need a cheapo to hook to my ground based dvr.
Maybe check the FPV section of the forum or Multirotorator.
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 04:49 PM
Making Stock Fly Like Modified
HeliFlyer711's Avatar
United States, PA, Philadelphia
Joined Oct 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk View Post
Apphoard, thank you. But now i know the motor is fine. Its a electrical problem. The stock esc is not sufficient enough to keep up with the motor's load. Plus the battery eliminator is pretty poor.

After doing some checking, since my new ESC has arrived. This turbo ace motor can peak a load of 50A easy. Maybe higher on hard pumps. Sometimes for whatever reason my esc starts getting hot right after bind up, so this is not the issue I'm having. The new one bound up fine the first test bind. Did it again and it started getting hot right after the last "ready" signal from the RX. I unplugged right away but i'm not always going to have my fingers on both sides of the esc right after it binds up. So I think there might be another problem since its heating up without running the motor. The stock ESC should hold out if you can keep it cool and not over pump your throttle with this motor. But its just a matter of time due to heat and damage from thermal expansion.

SO to try and protect my $43 stock ESC investment till i can get a 60A hobbywing or other. This is what i have done. When i got my new ESC I immediately opened the back up because instead of changing out the tips i was just going to change out the whole battery leads. Good thing i did, it brought my attention to the RX throttle lead wire and where it was melting on the back where it was pressed up against the capacitors and other components. Looking at my old ESC this could be what was creating a short. The wires melted through to show bare copper and were touching the capacitors and possibly solder joints. So i wrapped it in tape and pulled the RX wire out of the shrink wrap and soldered my new battery leads with the XT60 connectors on. I wrapped up that end with some super 33+ electrical tape from 3M. This tape is high heat tolerant and won't peel off on you. Since i didn't have any thermal putty or glue i used the piece off of my old ESC and plyed it between the stock ESC's aluminum back cooling plate and my own custom cut to size extruded aluminum cooling block. The vents on the block are vertical to catch the down draft from the rotor. Hopefully proving to be an more efficient cooling system. Provided it doesn't bind up "wrong" on me again and just over heat and burn out right away.

And can someone please tell me what the little green ring is for that came with my ESC?
the green ring is the ferrite choke, stops EMF/RFI from getting into the RX. I usually put it right before the RX or right after the ESC depending on where the ESC is mounted.. Try to keep the servo wires and the ESC wires seperate if you can as they sometimes dont play nice together.
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 06:21 PM
IHW Heli Division
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United States, FL, Palm Coast
Joined Mar 2012
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Originally Posted by HeliFlyer711 View Post
the green ring is the ferrite choke, stops EMF/RFI from getting into the RX. I usually put it right before the RX or right after the ESC depending on where the ESC is mounted.. Try to keep the servo wires and the ESC wires seperate if you can as they sometimes dont play nice together.
So is it supposed to just go around the ESC's RX lead wire and be secured to the helicopter? This is new to me. I know what a farrite choke is, just not its application in RC helicopters. And why doesn't it have a plastic cover to secure it to the wire?

UPDATE: I don't know if this is correct but I had the ESC Rx wire ran separately already, I didn't know but I had a suspicion induction or "crosstalk" was a possibility. the original owner had them all in a tangle. I added the farrite choke, I hope this is oksee pictures)
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 06:53 PM
Making Stock Fly Like Modified
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United States, PA, Philadelphia
Joined Oct 2009
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It goes around the RX/Throttle1 3 pin servo lead on the ESC, it should be wrapped around the core in loops 4 or 5 times, did you take it off. It comes with it installed AFAIK. Once its on it shouldnt come off ...... Gonna have to start calling you Dangerous Dan now
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 06:58 PM
IHW Heli Division
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United States, FL, Palm Coast
Joined Mar 2012
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Originally Posted by HeliFlyer711 View Post
It goes around the RX/Throttle1 3 pin lead, it should be wrapped around 4 or 5 times, did you take it off. It comes with it installed AFAIK...... Gonna have to start calling you Dangerous Dan now
it was not installed on the new one I received. it was just laying In the bag. Also there was none installed from the original owner when I got the helicopter. I suppose I just need to try to wrap it a few more times.
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 07:02 PM
Making Stock Fly Like Modified
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United States, PA, Philadelphia
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Hrrmm, well it should be installed, look at some stock photos of the v450 you will see how its mounted. Thats classic walking into a new era aka walkera
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