HobbyKing.com New Products Flash Sale
Reply
Thread Tools
Old Jul 20, 2011, 05:30 PM
WarpQuad, Flip260FPV, etc.
Tampa,FL
Joined Dec 2003
1,261 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeliGriff View Post
Heading to the hardware store tonight after work. Gonna get me some sleeves!
If you have a old v200 skid left over from a crash (like I do) they fit the main shaft perfectly, no play yet it still slides on easily.

I'm gonna give this mod a try too
candy76man is offline Find More Posts by candy76man
Reply With Quote
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Old Jul 20, 2011, 05:46 PM
Registered User
United States, IL, Chicago
Joined Jan 2011
1,054 Posts
To all,

I've been looking on the web at the Walkera line today. It appears that the V200, and CB180 series of helicopters (probably all series that use only two servos connected to the swashplate) could be improved by adding sleeves. The only exceptions that I saw were the 4F180 and M200D01, which have a Swashplate Swing Bar that connects the swashplate to the rotor head, preventing it from moving vertically on the shaft; which is what the sleeves do on my V200D01.
dsobbe is offline Find More Posts by dsobbe
Reply With Quote
Old Jul 20, 2011, 05:48 PM
Registered User
Australia
Joined Jun 2010
1,611 Posts
Be careful with this mod get the length correct of your tubes as you DONT want to be forcing the swash up or down as this puts pressure on the feathering shaft bush "o" rings which could de-stabilize your air craft. The tubes just need to restrict movement up and down. So it needs to be a neat fit on a level swash that does not bind anything. You can initialise your heli with the RX dip switch set to ADJ while setting up and measuring tube lengths before dismantling and fitting the tubes.

Mick
Bravo47 is offline Find More Posts by Bravo47
Reply With Quote
Old Jul 20, 2011, 06:09 PM
Registered User
United States, IL, Chicago
Joined Jan 2011
1,054 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bravo47 View Post
Be careful with this mod get the length correct of your tubes as you DONT want to be forcing the swash up or down as this puts pressure on the feathering shaft bush "o" rings which could de-stabilize your air craft. The tubes just need to restrict movement up and down. So it needs to be a neat fit on a level swash that does not bind anything. You can initialise your heli with the RX dip switch set to ADJ while setting up and measuring tube lengths before dismantling and fitting the tubes.

Mick
Thanks Mick. That's important, and why Instruction #6 needs to be followed carefully. That upper sleeve sets the swashplate vertical height. Reconnecting the upper pushrods, as explained, assures that the swashplate height and the original pushrod adjustments will be very close to their original settings. The lower sleeve controls any remaining vertical play. Together, they trap the swashplate and hold it vertically steady.
dsobbe is offline Find More Posts by dsobbe
Reply With Quote
Old Jul 20, 2011, 07:23 PM
I haveno idea what I am doing
2dmatt's Avatar
United States, SC, Lexington
Joined Jun 2011
123 Posts
I made it to the field today and this heli is now OFF THE CHAIN! The control is unreal. I was making passes 4 feet of the ground smooth as silk. No pitch problems at all. In fact the heli actually gains altitude and keeps moving in FFF when I pull back on the stick. It seems to take way less input from me to control the heli. It is truly like a different bird. I still have the battery mod in place so I dont know about how the stock battery position will perform. I had to turn my gyros back up slightly to get it under control at first.


definitely have to be careful with sleeve length. I used the same brass 3/16 tube as dsobbe. I measured with a micrometer but still had to make some adjustments to the length by sanding the tube down a little and re-trying. took some time but well worth it. This bird is a beast. I think a loop could be had with it now


Also i stripped one of the holes in my swashplate. any good fixes for this? If not, does anyone have an opinion on aluminum or plastic? I have been reading that because the aluminum is so soft, some people prefer the plastic ones that are made well. Thoughts?
2dmatt is offline Find More Posts by 2dmatt
Reply With Quote
Old Jul 20, 2011, 09:04 PM
my mental eXcape!
HeliGriff's Avatar
USA, Ohio, Catawba Island
Joined Jan 2011
4,373 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by candy76man View Post
If you have a old v200 skid left over from a crash (like I do) they fit the main shaft perfectly, no play yet it still slides on easily.

I'm gonna give this mod a try too
Ditto! My old skids fit too! That's good because the hardware doesn't carry the tubing and I've got skids out the wazzoo.

I'm gonna do the mod right after a new mainshaft arrives. My V200 developed a major vibration and I can't tell what is causing it. I haven't crashed in weeks. So, I'll start replacing/inspecting parts until I find it and do the mod at the same time. Meanwhile, my CP450 re-build/mod finishes-up tomorrow!

Outstanding Mod Dsobbe! Brilliant!
HeliGriff is offline Find More Posts by HeliGriff
Reply With Quote
Old Jul 20, 2011, 09:33 PM
Registered User
United States, IL, Chicago
Joined Jan 2011
1,054 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2dmatt View Post
I made it to the field today and this heli is now OFF THE CHAIN! The control is unreal. I was making passes 4 feet of the ground smooth as silk. No pitch problems at all. In fact the heli actually gains altitude and keeps moving in FFF when I pull back on the stick. It seems to take way less input from me to control the heli. It is truly like a different bird. I still have the battery mod in place so I dont know about how the stock battery position will perform. I had to turn my gyros back up slightly to get it under control at first.

Also i stripped one of the holes in my swashplate. any good fixes for this? If not, does anyone have an opinion on aluminum or plastic? I have been reading that because the aluminum is so soft, some people prefer the plastic ones that are made well. Thoughts?
Glad to hear that you're having the same flight results as myself. I currently have the C.G. 1/8" forward, using the stock battery pack. But, I'm sure that will change as we all get more flight time with this mod.

If you don't ever intend removing the stripped ball link again you can exopy it back in. Cover the back side of the hole with tape to prevent any excess epoxy from leaking out. Then, wet both the inside of the hole and the threads on the ball link with epoxy and screw it into the hole. Clean any excess epoxy up with a paper towel dampened with alcohol. When dry, wiggle the ball link with your fingers to test its security. Then, occasionally check it to be sure its still tight. Don't try to turn it with a driver as it'll probably break the grip.
Or, go to plan B. Buy a new swashplate. Good luck.
dsobbe is offline Find More Posts by dsobbe
Reply With Quote
Old Jul 20, 2011, 09:41 PM
my mental eXcape!
HeliGriff's Avatar
USA, Ohio, Catawba Island
Joined Jan 2011
4,373 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by dsobbe View Post
Glad to hear that you're having the same flight results as myself. I currently have the C.G. 1/8" forward, using the stock battery pack. But, I'm sure that will change as we all get more flight time with this mod.

If you don't ever intend removing the stripped ball link again you can exopy it back in. Cover the back side of the hole with tape to prevent any excess epoxy from leaking out. Then, wet both the inside of the hole and the threads on the ball link with epoxy and screw it into the hole. Clean any excess epoxy up with a paper towel dampened with alcohol. When dry, wiggle the ball link with your fingers to test its security. Then, occasionally check it to be sure its still tight. Don't try to turn it with a driver as it'll probably break the grip.
Or, go to plan B. Buy a new swashplate. Good luck.
I used a old ball-link (ball and separate bolt) to replace the stripped one-piece ball-link on my swash. It's held for about 5 months!
HeliGriff is offline Find More Posts by HeliGriff
Reply With Quote
Old Jul 20, 2011, 09:43 PM
my mental eXcape!
HeliGriff's Avatar
USA, Ohio, Catawba Island
Joined Jan 2011
4,373 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeliGriff View Post
Ditto! My old skids fit too! That's good because the hardware doesn't carry the tubing and I've got skids out the wazzoo.

I'm gonna do the mod right after a new mainshaft arrives. My V200 developed a major vibration and I can't tell what is causing it. I haven't crashed in weeks. So, I'll start replacing/inspecting parts until I find it and do the mod at the same time. Meanwhile, my CP450 re-build/mod finishes-up tomorrow!

Outstanding Mod Dsobbe! Brilliant!
Sorry.. the skid's OD is too large and doesn't allow the swash to tip hardly at all. it would be great for hovering, but nothing else.
HeliGriff is offline Find More Posts by HeliGriff
Last edited by HeliGriff; Jul 20, 2011 at 09:50 PM.
Reply With Quote
Old Jul 21, 2011, 01:25 AM
Registered User
nese's Avatar
Joined Nov 2010
929 Posts
Here's seconding the thanks to Bravo47 and dsobbe - this mod's the one to do to try get rid of the bucking.
nese is offline Find More Posts by nese
Reply With Quote
Old Jul 21, 2011, 04:22 AM
Registered User
Australia
Joined Jun 2010
1,611 Posts
Yeah no worries im glad I could help out. This problem has been bugging me for some time, as I like flying the V200 a lot, but always found the random bucking action very annoying like everyone else. Then all it takes is last night I could not sleep and found myself logged into RCG at 1am and staring at my V200, then the penny dropped, and thanks to dsobbe for coming up with a quality plus simple solution so fast
I did the mod using some old skids. My V200 appears to have enough swash movement, although ive only been able to do some hovering and a bit of forward/back to test cyclic authority and it looks good so far. Too windy for the field so im hoping to get it airbourne at the BB stadium tomorrow afternoon if all goes to plan.

regards

Mick
Bravo47 is offline Find More Posts by Bravo47
Reply With Quote
Old Jul 21, 2011, 05:38 AM
Registered User
United States, IL, Chicago
Joined Jan 2011
1,054 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by nese View Post
Here's seconding the thanks to Bravo47 and dsobbe - this mod's the one to do to try get rid of the bucking.
Thanks everyone for the kind words.
Like Bravo47, I knew there was an answer to the pitching problem and the fact that linkage adjustment, wobbling and drifting problems kept randomly reoccurring. When I saw the link that Bravo47 had posted I remembered what I had learned years ago about the effects of slop (looseness) in helicopter controls and realized that the swashplate moving vertically was the cause of all those troubles. The rest was just a cut-off wheel, a file and a piece of tubing.
dsobbe is offline Find More Posts by dsobbe
Reply With Quote
Old Jul 21, 2011, 05:53 AM
Registered User
Joined Mar 2011
413 Posts
SO, are people generally enjoying the V200D01? I have a UFLYS, and 4#6S, and was thinking of going flybarless. It's either this one or the 4F180, 4-bladed guy. Thanks!
PonyBoy1973 is offline Find More Posts by PonyBoy1973
Reply With Quote
Old Jul 21, 2011, 07:38 AM
my mental eXcape!
HeliGriff's Avatar
USA, Ohio, Catawba Island
Joined Jan 2011
4,373 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by PonyBoy1973 View Post
SO, are people generally enjoying the V200D01? I have a UFLYS, and 4#6S, and was thinking of going flybarless. It's either this one or the 4F180, 4-bladed guy. Thanks!
Well.. let's just say "we love our V200D01's!" and that comes from many of us who also own other helis: bigger, smaller, CP, FBL & FB,... The V200D01 is the one that you can count on to be 'ready' on flying day. You don't have to do big mods to get it flying. It's 98% out of the box! We just like getting that extra 2%.
HeliGriff is offline Find More Posts by HeliGriff
Reply With Quote
Old Jul 21, 2011, 08:18 AM
Registered User
United States, IL, Chicago
Joined Jan 2011
1,054 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by PonyBoy1973 View Post
SO, are people generally enjoying the V200D01? I have a UFLYS, and 4#6S, and was thinking of going flybarless. It's either this one or the 4F180, 4-bladed guy. Thanks!
The V200D01 and 4F180 are identical mechanically, except for the added complexity and expense of the 4f's four blade main rotor and three blade tail rotor. Otherwise, they are both tough, easy to maintain, repair and once you learn how to space the gears properly, don't need much attention.
If you make the mod to the V200D01 described in my Post #822

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...282125&page=55

both machines will have similar handling qualities.

Flybarless heads handle a little bit asymmetrically as compared to flybar heads. It's not a big deal. On the other hand, not having a flybar and its associated parts means that there isn't much that can get damaged on the rotor head, except the blades. That's a good tradeoff in my book.
You can't go wrong with either machine. I have them both. It's just a matter of "Whaddya like".
dsobbe is offline Find More Posts by dsobbe
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Discussion V200D01 Walkera 200 size FBL FP, yep another newy! Ampdraw Micro Helis 143 Apr 23, 2011 01:42 AM
Mini-Review Walkera UFLY helicopter mini review ehirobo Micro Helis 8 Jan 16, 2011 08:21 PM
Discussion NE Free Spirit or Walkera V200D01 JHawk19 Micro Helis 11 Jul 19, 2010 11:53 PM
Discussion SNEAK PEAK Walkera 7.4v 2S Flybarless 4#6 (V200D01) Z06 Tony Micro Helis 0 Jun 25, 2010 09:34 AM
Discussion Walkera 52#1 Mini Review Swilson50 Micro Helis 0 Apr 05, 2007 12:19 AM