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Old Jan 05, 2013, 05:17 PM
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Just order the replacement turbo ace motor from Wow hobbies:

http://www.wowhobbies.com/hm-180z-z-...motor-1-1.aspx
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 05:33 PM
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San Jose, California
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Originally Posted by paul2pilot View Post
Just order the replacement turbo ace motor from Wow hobbies:

http://www.wowhobbies.com/hm-180z-z-...motor-1-1.aspx
Make sure you upgrade your esc if you have not done so already. Stock 20A esc will not be able to handle the new 5200KV motor. If you use the stock battery which is 1000mah 2s 15C meaning it is only capable of supplying 15 amps which will not meet the demands of your new turbo ace. if you use a 20C 2s 1000mah lipo you will then be able to supply 20Amps to your load...but the problem again is your ESC...it is rated for 20amps max...you may be able to get 25-30 amps for minimum of 10 seconds before your esc fries...also not to mention that your integrated bec will be starved of current because the entire 20A range will be used up on the stock ESC...and therefore you will suffer brownout.

In case you have not yet done so, I would recommend upgrading to 30amp esc to cover your concerns, with external ubec to avoid brownouts.
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 01:16 PM
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United States, CA, Modesto
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Rx-2437v

Hi V200D01 fliers! I have a question I think you can answer.

I am building a 450 size fixed pitch heli using the 2437V Rx and 2403 Tx and am wondering if the receiver gets all of it's power for the servos and all from the BEC off the speed control? My experience is with a heli that had a battery hooked direct to the PCB and this Rx does not seem to have that.

Thanks in advance.
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 03:48 PM
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Hi Arrowshooter,

First of all, I do not recommend using the 2437RX as your acting receiver and 3-axis balance...and here is why....before I go in to why not, I want to first say that I have not tried it myself, but I have also considered it in the past but the idea was shot down by my colleagues and speculation...so this is something you can try if you really want to see for your self.

The RX2437 is designed for a 200 to 250 class helicopter...you are moving up more than one size of a class, and that means your rotor size has more than doubled in diameter more or less...not to mention the weight to power ratio the digital walkera tail servo will not be able to hold youre heading lock ....rendering youre tail unsturdy...whats more...you may strain your integrated module given the additional load that it was not originally designed for.

To further more answer youre question,.....Yes you are correct in the assumption that all youre power to your servos are sourced via the integrated BEC (i assume) on your ESC. Usually this is a simple 5V to 6V voltage regulator with a 2A min source capability to all youre servos and also to power youre receiver with. Of course this is all supplied from youre main lipo battery...for the V200d01 its 7.4V regulated to 5V-6V for youre rx, and servos.

A parallel connection is spliced 7.4V to supply youre brushless load.

As a standard practice, I like to disable the integrated BEC and use an external BEC in fear of the ESC burning out and consequently frying the BEC which takes away youre receiver power and power to the servos...in an aircraft you would be ok since you can put sir Issac newton in the drivers seat and let kinetic energy take over and glide her down....in a helicopter you are out or luck...simply drop out of the sky......so I guess using a external BEC doesnt do much good...if your in high altitudes....

Youre experience with the PCB is probably from an Eflite product with micro sized helis....those are more for beginners and such that they manufacture these super set PCB's to accommodation 100% functionality on the PCB board. Saves weight, variables interms of module blocks, and is more or less relatively maintenance free relative to the walkera helis.....which are in most cases more advance.

If I were you, in place of the 2437RX and therefore a 2403 Transmitter, you can do like I did with my multiplex funcopter...which is almost a 500 class helicopter. I would go ahead and select a rx/3axis gyro that can handle the weight of a 450 to 500class loaded design...also you will not be limited to walkera digital servos...you will be able to choose your digital servos with good frame rate.....This setup is very stable and powerful....

Ingredients:

Reciever and integrated 3-axis: 2702V (you can choose to get the Devo version or standard...makes no difference...just the devo version is much fancier)

TX: WK-2801Pro version 2.3 firmware, or Devo 12 transmitter.

I hope this helps and feel free to ask questions...im ready to mentor!
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 04:59 PM
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Tengarang,

Thank you so much for the detailed explanation. I currently fly the MJX F45. What I am doing is adapting the F45 fixed pitch rotor head to a 450 clone. I have built one already using the F45 tail motor and PCB and it flies like a dream. I am going to build a second one so that I can use the 450 belt driven tail for which I need a receiver that will drive a tail servo. I chose the walkera products more for their low cost and thought I read up enough about it but maybe I was wrong. I do not intend to use the 3-axis gyro as my setup includes a flybar, but I may try it just to see what it does. BTW I have already bought the Rx and Tx.

My big concern is what you say about the BEC. I will be running a 3800kv motor on 7.4v with a 40A speed control which works great on my first build. Does setting up a separate BES require a second battery?
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 05:32 PM
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San Jose, California
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Originally Posted by arrowshooter View Post
Tengarang,

Thank you so much for the detailed explanation. I currently fly the MJX F45. What I am doing is adapting the F45 fixed pitch rotor head to a 450 clone. I have built one already using the F45 tail motor and PCB and it flies like a dream. I am going to build a second one so that I can use the 450 belt driven tail for which I need a receiver that will drive a tail servo. I chose the walkera products more for their low cost and thought I read up enough about it but maybe I was wrong. I do not intend to use the 3-axis gyro as my setup includes a flybar, but I may try it just to see what it does. BTW I have already bought the Rx and Tx.

My big concern is what you say about the BEC. I will be running a 3800kv motor on 7.4v with a 40A speed control which works great on my first build. Does setting up a separate BES require a second battery?

Hello again arrowshooter,

Sounds like an interesting project, and should be very educational one....

Addressing you're priority concern first...here are my thoughts:

You say you are attempting a belt driven setup to drive the tail...that is good...I am assuming you're main shaft is not direct drive, like the funcopter is...it must have some sort of gear pinion to main gear ratio...because the motor you are running is 3800KV....which is too high to be direct drive...direct drive in this size class of heli should be in the 200Kv to 300KV range. The assumption now is gear driven main and belt driven tail...correct me if I am wrong...I would be worried if I was wrong....

Under these circumstances the 40Amp should cover you as you have experienced...but Ill save my words Im urging to utter since you have not experienced any issues thus far.....

Setting up a external BEC does not require an external battery, although it is advisable that you do...and here is why:

Scenario 1:

If you go with no separate pack to supply your BEC, you are safe under the assumtion you are aware of how far away you are from LVC = low voltage cut off. Lets say you are operating off of a 7.4V 2200mah pack....that means 2s battery where 1s = 3.7V...remember it is good practice to keep each cell at or above 3.6V....i maintain 3.7V myself to keep me confident...if at some point you lose track of your time and one of the two cells or god forbid both cells fall under 3.2V....the lithium polymer cell will not be able to hold its charge given a load...meaning when you complete the circuit...the voltage will clamp close to 0V giving you no power..... which also means no power to youre BEC.....

Moral of the story is...if you use one main 2200mah 7.4V 2s pack...this pack is used to drive the motor...which will suck the pack dry faster than you would anticipate...which can put in danger your BEC external or not.

Having a seperate 400mah 7.4V 2s source to your BEC alone as an independent source may cost more weight...but since youre not collective pitch...you will not be doing that much aggressive flying which means weight wont be of too much concern...IMHO this setup buys MORE insurance because only your servo and reciever will be drawing power from the regulated source....and you will not have to worry about dynamic power draw starving youre source dry.

Both ways are possible

but I prefer the independent source.


I would recommend you get a watt meter to see exactly how much current you are drawing...the higher the current draw under your 40Amp limit the more I want to tell you to use a seperate 2s 400mah source for your bec. Because more current drawn means faster battery depletion....the higher the chance you will be caught off guard. High current draw is probably anything above 35 amps on your setup....if your pulling 38 amps...it would still work...but dangerous...I like to keep a 5A to 10A guardband...the more the better.
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 05:48 PM
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This is what I am building. Ultimately I will be using either 2200mAh or 2600mAh 2s packs. I do use voltage alarms on all of my birds and have them set at 3.4v, but will take your advise on the 3.7v limit with the larger heli.

How do I hook up the seperate BEC to the Rx?
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by arrowshooter View Post
This is what I am building. Ultimately I will be using either 2200mAh or 2600mAh 2s packs. I do use voltage alarms on all of my birds and have them set at 3.4v, but will take your advise on the 3.7v limit with the larger heli.

So if I do not intend to use a second pack to opperate a separate BEC is there really a point in doing this?
Its good practice but not necessary.

If I really wanted to play lawyer and defend my case..I would say...over mileage youre cells will be beaten up over time due to use and temperature fluctuation....something unavoidable by known technology. The voltage alarm I use them as well to give me the alarm clock for 6AM significance and to ensure I dont go below the levels that I dont want....BUT I stress again...1 year down the road youre battery like the one in your car will degrade....and the voltage down ramp per insertion will not be so much of a linear curve...it could be a downward exponential may catch you off guard whilst you setup for emergency landing pattern.......Though not likely but the possibility is there ....

Case in point...

I lost an F6F hellcat from FMS 1100mm wingspan. I used a integrated BEC...it wasnt even external....I was way up there doing loops and dives...suddenly my right aileron locked or of no where....and it went dead stick spiral in to the ground.

I recovered the wreck and traced the culprit down to my lipo pack...a voltage imbalance surge was discovered when I put a multimeter on the bottom cell, and compared a 3V difference to the healthy cell. This means some sort of surge maybe due to the stress of the electrical loop due to turbulence on the servos or maybe I even hit some debree (bugs ...unknown debree) which causes voltage spike on the ESC and therefore BEC which renders the lipo pack out of proportion causing a brownout....rending my ailerons to lock and to its final destination. If I had a 2s source....independence keeps it safe and servos working ...I would still have a plane.

But again i digress...you are dealing with a heli...so i think you should be fine....but for me I would stick to the independent source to be complete
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 06:17 PM
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OK. I think I will take your advise to try on the second helio. How do I hook up to the reciever and still keep the signal wire for the SC?
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by arrowshooter View Post
OK. I think I will take your advise to try on the second helio. How do I hook up to the reciever and still keep the signal wire for the SC?

Very good question..as i wish I had asked the same thing before i tried my first time with sparks before my eyes...huge scary sparks.

On the esc connector, there are three wires, signal(white), power(red) and ground(black)

Remove the red(middle) wire. insulate it...let it float like a dummy connection and ensure it does not short to anything else.

Once the above step is done you can connect the external BEC...the one with power.

Under no circumstance do not have both BEC's powered at the same time on the same reciever...you will see fireworks as I did. In my case the BEC on the ESC will burn in melt as it did for me...leaving the external bec unharmed ...not sure why this is...maybe some sort of protection diode blocked all the current flush
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 06:41 PM
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Roger that on the red wire removal. Would I then put the external red wire in its place and do the same with the black wire? Sorry for all the questions, but I do want to avoid that meltdown.
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 07:12 PM
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Roger that on the red wire removal. Would I then put the external red wire in its place and do the same with the black wire? Sorry for all the questions, but I do want to avoid that meltdown.

Dont worry about the questions, i rather you ask your way through every detail rather than unnecessary foul ups...I dont mind it...at all.

Leave the black(ground) and signal(white or some bright color) where it is.

you can remove the red connection out of the connector housing completely and insulate it with electrical tape...OR you can just cut the red wire out of the picture completely...its is the power supply, or the output of the internal BEC...since you are using an external BEC you want the internal connection removed fro the entire circuit.

refer to section 3.2 where it shows "center pin has to be disconnected"

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...X416823X44.pdf

keep em comming
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 07:14 PM
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Dont worry about the questions, i rather you ask your way through every detail rather than unnecessary foul ups...I dont mind it...at all.

Leave the black(ground) and signal(white or some bright color) where it is.

you can remove the red connection out of the connector housing completely and insulate it with electrical tape...OR you can just cut the red wire out of the picture completely...its is the power supply, or the output of the internal BEC...since you are using an external BEC you want the internal connection removed fro the entire circuit.

refer to section 3.2 where it shows "center pin has to be disconnected"

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...X416823X44.pdf

keep em comming
Cool I got that, but then do I just plug the red/blk wires from seperate BEC to another open plug on the receiver? Only reason I ask is they say "not used".

Edit: Tried it and works! Thanks again for your time.
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 07:25 PM
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Cool I got that, but then do I just plug the red/blk wires from seperate BEC to another open plug on the receiver? Only reason I ask is they say "not used".

yup Even if the receiver says not used, it probably does not have any auxiliary functionality, but does not mean it cant supply power. Go ahead and pick any open port on your reciever...that you know youre not going to use for any other purpose.... go have at it....itll work
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 09:20 PM
Team WarpSquad
Japan, Tokyo
Joined Jun 2011
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You could also just make a separate power bus between the 2nd BEC and the servos. I'd keep the GND common though and just provide the signal from the RX and the power form the 2nd BEC.
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