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Old Oct 13, 2010, 03:12 AM
Registered User
United States, CO, Lakewood
Joined Mar 2007
3,009 Posts
Thanks guys!


I got the lights from here. http://www.lowpricerc.com/product_in...roducts_id=665

The price has gone up about a dollar & a quarter since I bought them. They are not switchable. They do plug into a spare rec. channel. However if you want you can power them seperately with a 2 cell lipo to make them a bit brighter. All my other planes with them are power this way but on the Stinson I decided to use the rec.

The wing tip lights I dremel a hole the size of the led & a tad smaller than the mounting ring if i'll use that. Then I dremel a hole back toward the hole at an angle on the flat part of the underside of the wing and meet up with the first hole. Then I feed the led into the hole. Then I glue the LED into place.

Then I slice a 1/4" deep slice along the wing until I can get to a wire slot if posible.

The wires stuff easily into the cut I've made. Depending on the kind of foam sometimes you have to fill a cut with a lite weight filler. Z-Foam works great though. I use the filler on the back side of the angled hole also. Once dry If needed I'll sand and paint where the filler is. Now sometimes like the back light you have to punch a long deep hole thrue the foam 3 or more inches deep requires you to have to cut the led wire down by the plug so the wire can be fed easily thrue the hole. You might have to use a coat hanger or other type of wire feed to pull the led wire thrue the hole. The hardest one so far has been my hobby lobby B-25. I had to go thrue two bulk heads for the tail light & one bulk head when I did the led on the back of the fuse.

For the tail light on the Reliant I had to take of the plastic inserts for the horizontal stab & then punch a hole into the hollow of the fuse. I cut a large slot into the rudder for the wires right at the led & then a strait cut on the rudder to almost hinge then a cut down along next to the hinge. Then stuffed the wires in it. It stayed a bit wide so I filled it with filler. Tracked the wire under the plastic insert & then into the hole.

Sometimes if the foam is too thin to cut a slot & stuff wire you just have to lay the wire along the surface & paint it so it doesn't stick out. The tail light on my T-50 was like that.

Now the landing lights/leds in the wings of the stinson are NOT from the kit. They are from clip on led lights from Walgreens. After taking it apart there is a .5" circle board the led is soldered to. Perfect for the hole I dremeled into the real thick wing. The assembly also has a plstic lens that worked great to cover the top of the hole. I'll have to take a couple of photos of it with the led off so you guys can see what it looks like.

Here's a post I did for the lights I did on My T-50 Jet. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=104

Nav Lights for the T-50 Gloden Eagle (2 min 25 sec)


Here's a photo of the walgreens clip on light taken apart. I did not use the reflector. I guess I could have but didn't. I did paint the board silver though.

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Old Oct 13, 2010, 05:22 AM
Did you get it on video?
Flying-Monkey's Avatar
USA, FL, Miramar Beach
Joined Nov 2005
6,041 Posts
The T-50 needs cockpit lighting.
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Old Oct 13, 2010, 02:51 PM
Registered User
United States, CO, Lakewood
Joined Mar 2007
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What? Are you saying it overkill?
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Old Oct 13, 2010, 04:07 PM
Mile High Pilot
milehighjc's Avatar
USA, CO, Longmont
Joined Jun 2010
1,175 Posts
I noticed the night I taxi tested my Stinson that the light from the AR6200 made a nice amber glow in the cockpit. Looked kinda cool, unfortunately you would only see it when its pitch dark.

jc
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Old Oct 13, 2010, 08:33 PM
Did you get it on video?
Flying-Monkey's Avatar
USA, FL, Miramar Beach
Joined Nov 2005
6,041 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ColoradoHeliNut View Post
What? Are you saying it overkill?
I expect to see the instruments glowing on the faces of the pilots.
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Old Oct 28, 2010, 08:06 PM
Rocky
Massachusetts
Joined Oct 2010
19 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mattfly View Post
FeoTT,

The Stinson comes with the AR500 receiver. The flap servo plugs into the gear channel. If you use a DX5e then the flaps are either up or down and operate with the gear switch. With a DX6i, DX7, 9303/9503, 11X, or 12X, just mix gear and flap then you can use the 3 position flap switch.

Gary,

We recommend the Parkzone DSV130 digital servo to operate the flaps. After cutting the small amount of foam to free the flaps it is good to flex them down and add hinge tape to prevent the foam hinge from cracking over time. Then work the flaps by hand to free up the hinge and it will be less load on your servo right from the start. All hardware to make the flaps functional are included with the plane except the additional servo.

The way this plane flies it does not need flaps for landing and is very docile, but the flaps are very fun to play with and look so nice in the air on final approach.


Thanks

Matt Andren
Parkzone/Hobbyzone Product Development
Horizon Hobby
Hi Matt; thanks for the great posts. I'm learning and have a couple of Q's. I'll use Blenderm for hinge tape on my SR-10 flaps, but should I use a few short pieces or one long piece along the length of each flap? On top, bottom, or both?
Thanks, keep up the great work!
Rick
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Old Oct 28, 2010, 08:13 PM
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United States, NY, Queens
Joined Oct 2005
2,418 Posts
Its better to use two strips because if one gets damaged or fails in some way , the likelyhood is that the other will still keep things together until you land. I simply use regular packing tape. Make sure that the surfaces are clean before you apply the tape and you should have no problem.
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Old Oct 29, 2010, 07:53 AM
Rocky
Massachusetts
Joined Oct 2010
19 Posts
Thanks Leo, I used 3 strips after reading your post! It seems to have worked out OK. I flexed the flaps down and put the tape on top. Is that enough or would you add tape to the bottom too?
I spend 2 hours last night trying to figure out how to mix the gear and flap channels on my DX7 so that I could use the 3-position switch and the flap position screen to set up half and full flaps with a little down aileron. I accidentally overdrove the servo and pulled it off the wing, had to hot-glue it back on! I finally got it to work, but I'm not sure how - . If anyone is interested, I'll respond with the settings.
I'm probably ahead of myself, considering I've never flown anything larger than my Ultra Micros (P-51 and T-28). I'm hoping the SR-10's maiden flight will be this weekend. I'm also hoping we both survive it!
Before everyone warns me, I will try to avoid using flaps for the first few flights.......maybe.
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Old Oct 29, 2010, 10:19 AM
Chesapeake Bay RC Club
Gary Hoorn's Avatar
USA, MD, Annapolis
Joined Feb 2005
4,826 Posts
rrheau,
If using the flaps on your first flight slow slightly and lower them half-way at altitude to test the reaction. Be ready for the plane to nose up and slow. Using flaps requires some down elevator to compensate. I would recommend not using them for the first few landings. The plane requires some power to maintain flying speed when the flaps are extended, especially with full flaps as recommended in the manual. Be aware that the elevator trim can be quite sensitive. My CG was within limits and the elevator trimmed inline with the elevator itself and the plane still wanted to dive! It only took a couple of clicks of trim on my DX7 to get things under control but I have seen this condition on 2 different Stinsons. Take it easy on takeoff and do not yank the plane into the air as it likes to fly on its wing rather than on the prop. Coming from micros be ready for slower response to control input. If you take it easy and don't try to fly in too confined a space you should be okay. Let us know and keep it flying
Gary
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Old Oct 29, 2010, 12:01 PM
Rocky
Massachusetts
Joined Oct 2010
19 Posts
Good info Gary, thanks! I'll report back after the weekend.
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Old Oct 31, 2010, 09:17 AM
Registered User
Italy, Sicily, Palermo
Joined Sep 2006
866 Posts
Hello does anyone can tell me thhe correct position of your lipo ....front ...rear...center...
I use a 2200 25 c 3s
Would like to have a correct CG

I feel the motor is a bit less reactive at the beginning..only when i push at 70...100 % throotle...
Maybe the esc is set wrongly...i left it as it came out of the box...

Thanks
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Old Oct 31, 2010, 09:47 AM
Mt. Dora, Florida
mtdoramike's Avatar
USA, FL, Mt Dora
Joined Dec 2006
4,040 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by FedericoA View Post
Hello does anyone can tell me thhe correct position of your lipo ....front ...rear...center...
I use a 2200 25 c 3s
Would like to have a correct CG

I feel the motor is a bit less reactive at the beginning..only when i push at 70...100 % throotle...
Maybe the esc is set wrongly...i left it as it came out of the box...

Thanks

It could be the setup of your ESC, I fly mine around at 1/2-3/4 throttle. But then again, I'm not looking for it to be aerobatic. I'm more into scale flying with it. I can't speak on the 2200mah lipo issue, I use 3s 25c 1800mah lipos in mine. I put a couple of flights on mine this morning.
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Old Oct 31, 2010, 10:57 AM
Chesapeake Bay RC Club
Gary Hoorn's Avatar
USA, MD, Annapolis
Joined Feb 2005
4,826 Posts
FedericoA,
So far I have flown my Stinson with 3S 2200mah Thunderpower, Zippy and now 3S Rhino 2150's. I place them approximately in the middle of the battery box and have noticed no change in flying characteristics when changing from one battery to another. This plane does not appear to be overly sensitive to CG.
If your throttle is not responding you should check the ability of your lipos. The stock settings on all of the Eflite speed controls that I have have been fine as delivered.
Gary
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Old Oct 31, 2010, 10:59 AM
Rocky
Massachusetts
Joined Oct 2010
19 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by FedericoA View Post
Hello does anyone can tell me thhe correct position of your lipo ....front ...rear...center...
I use a 2200 25 c 3s
Would like to have a correct CG

I feel the motor is a bit less reactive at the beginning..only when i push at 70...100 % throotle...
Maybe the esc is set wrongly...i left it as it came out of the box...

Thanks
Frederico,
FYI-here's a tech note from Parkzone's site;

Clarification on the CG measurement
The wing angles back from the leading edge where it meets the fuselage. When doing measurements for the CG, measure from the farthest forward part of the leading edge, not from the cutback, on the underside of the wing. Please reference the image on Page 11 of the manual for better clarification of where the CG measurement should be taken from.



I measured back and used a red sharpie to mark the bottom of the wing with a dot. Then position your battery in the center of the battery compartment, then check CG by balancing with your fingers on the underside of the wing.
Or, I made a jig using a 2x4 and drilling 1/4" holes along its length. Cut some 1/4" dowel to two 10" lengths and round one end of each with a file. Just stick the dowels in to holes about 10" apart and balance the wings on the dowels. Move battery as necessary. You can move the dowels to use this jig on all size planes.
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Old Oct 31, 2010, 11:23 AM
Rocky
Massachusetts
Joined Oct 2010
19 Posts
Maiden Flight - I need a cigarette!

So I took her (SR-10) up for the first time this morning, which also was my first time flying something bigger than an Ultra micro P-51. Cool morning in Norfolk Mass, about an 8 mph breeze. First try - she bounced across the grass soccer field for about 10 feet, hit a rut and nosed in. No damage, just to my pride. I found a smoother spot and tried again; she leaves the ground......HOLY I'm gonna need a bigger field! This baby moves! My heart pounding, I took her around the field twice, trying to be gentle. She responds beautifully. I glance at the flag pole to my left, the wind is picking up, probably about 10-12 mph now. Maybe it's a good time to try a landing.......she's goin way to fast for me. Eaassy baby.....throttle back! Should I put down the flaps?? NO, everyone told me to wait! Oh, what the heck, I'll try them out. I lower them to half, then full, she slows down nicely, gives me time to come up for air. The 14% down elevator I mixed in with the flaps seems to help, as I experience little floating. Beautiful touchdown. She goes about 5 feet on the grass and flips over, cracking the rudder right below that stupid little cut with carbon fiber rod near the top. I knew I should have brought my tools, but I figured if I crashed it would probably be a doozy. I straighten it out and decide to go for another try. Second flight was more of the same, but when I came in to land, I kind of overshot the "runway" and flipped her onto a small hill on the side of the field. The rudder cracked a bit worse, but is still holding together. I've had enough. I don't think I could go again if I wanted to.
I need a cigarette.

Any pointers would be appreciated....maybe I should find a bigger area with a paved runway!
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