Originally Posted by AJay Newb

You are smarter than I...I just jumped back in after not flying for 12 years and used the "recommended throws." Oh, yeah, all I ever flew before was high wing trainers and gliders. Twelve years is a long time man... long time.

I'm fairly certain that full throttle and full yank on the up-stick would either open a worm hole or cause the thing to vaporize. I planning on giving it a shot Sunday after church.

Unlikely to be smarter, never been accused of that before, just had some feedback from flying buddies. That said, if you do back elev travel off, don't be surprised if you get to the point that you don't understand how it can even work. Last week at the field I was getting ready to fly my extra and a friend that had never been around it tried to stop me from flying when he saw me test control surfaces. He said your elevator isn't working right at all, it barely moves, you can't fly it like that. I told him that I'd try anyway. After a couple of square loops and some assorted simple aerobatics, he said he still didn't understand, but admitted it worked.

It must be a sign of a very well balanced airframe

Originally Posted by jgalexander

I haven't flown my 300 in quite a while, but I recall getting 10-12 minute flights regularly on the stock electronics/prop with a 3s 2200mah batt and mixed flying.

I used to fly a Stick .40 trainer with a hot OS Max and a 12oz tank.
Swinging a 12X6 at about two clicks over idle I I would have people aske me to please land and check my receiver battery... I was a bit of a frequency pin-hog back in the day.

Originally Posted by AJay Newb

I used to fly a Stick .40 trainer with a hot OS Max and a 12oz tank.
Swinging a 12X6 at about two clicks over idle I I would have people aske me to please land and check my receiver battery... I was a bit of a frequency pin-hog back in the day.

I've got an Acro Wot with some kind of 46ish motor in it, might just have to get that flying again.....

Originally Posted by SilentPilot

It must be a sign of a very well balanced airframe

I'm in the, "just give it a ton of throw" camp when it comes time to fix any balance or rigging problems

Originally Posted by SilentPilot

I've got an Acro Wot with some kind of 46ish motor in it, might just have to get that flying again.....

Have to create a new Handle for the board "Silent Pilot."

Yeah, electrics are quieter for sure!

The Handle comes from me flying [full size] Gliders
I wanted PowerlessPilot but settled for Silent...

When I run into something I always share. I have no doubt that the experienced people out there know this but here goes.

I was advised to check the horizontal stab and make sure it is squared to the fuse and wing. I lamely said it looked OK but boy was I wrong. A significant amount of slippage and I don't know when. Oops!

I never thought the bird would be ready in the AM but t is. Thanks also to the post about working the ailerons to loosen them up. After re-gluing the right one the throws were limited. Worked them and cool beans!

Rudder ripped off, gear again, a smashed cowl and yes the battery bulkhead. All fixed in a few hours. What a strong tough bird!

BRW does anyone know the type of glue they use on the servos?

Originally Posted by Rickflaguy

BRW does anyone know the type of glue they use on the servos?

Yeah.. What Rick said. What exactly is that white crap?

EDIT: I said, "Exactly."

I believe it's RTV silicone. I've used some in the past to seal gaps on my Habu and to glue in servos. Looks very similar and has a similar holding strength.
J

All surfaces square, Side force generators installed. 11x5.5 APC prop and that bird is as good as I can make it. Take off and flight smooth and a stall is REALLY hard to induce. Set up a perfect glide watching it all the way in, slow and smooth.

Did I mention my Sunday field is a soccer field?

I had a path well clear of the nets and was waiting for the kiss of three inch wheels. I didn't notice the aluminum bench. Scratch the prop and I got retracts again. This thing lands sweet on its belly.

Glued it up and had a great flight. I think we are going to get along just fine.

Originally Posted by AJay Newb

Yeah.. What Rick said. What exactly is that white crap?

EDIT: I said, "Exactly."

I use silicone - nothing special.

Silicone

Regular silicone adhesives emit acetic acid gas during the curing process, which can corrode nearby wiring or electronic circuitry that is exposed to the fumes. Neutral-cure silicone adhesives are advised.

fairly cheap in 2.8 oz reusable tube from Hardware Box stores--

I used GE silicone II clear window/door/attic/basement--

instead of acetic acid (strong vinegar smell), it releases methyl alcohol and ammonia while curing. The ammonia while curing perhaps could be a problem too for metal. But various folks who repair circuit boards have suggested it as a cheaper alternative.

non-corrosive electronics grade RTV is probably better.
like Permatex Ultra Copper

Frustrating. I flew yesterday and I got worried again and pulled off the gear. I do put the batt all the way in but I wonder if that is too far. Anyone have a good CG?