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Old Sep 15, 2012, 04:42 PM
Pan Pan, Pan Pan, Mayday
SilentPilot's Avatar
United Kingdom, Yeadon
Joined Mar 2007
3,487 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by mxz1998 View Post
I was going to use the electronics from my Extra but found out the motor is waay heavy. Didn't trust the servos in a balsa. So I kept the 300 and started my 3dhs edge 540 from scratch. It's cheaper than an E-Flite 260 and IMHO a far superior plane. But I'm glad I kept the Extra 300 as I still love flying it. And for sport/aerobatics there is absolutely nothing wrong with it. I still can't figure out why people hate it???
What size Edge?
That is still an option to me
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Old Sep 16, 2012, 01:59 PM
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Canada, AB
Joined Jun 2011
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41 inch. Awesome plane. You won't be disappointed.
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Old Sep 16, 2012, 02:04 PM
Pan Pan, Pan Pan, Mayday
SilentPilot's Avatar
United Kingdom, Yeadon
Joined Mar 2007
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Nice one! I'll see if my LHS can get one in for me to look at.
(I think they know by now that I buy most stuff I look at )
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Old Sep 16, 2012, 03:30 PM
If it flies.....I can crash it
blackbrabus's Avatar
United Kingdom, England, Preston on Stour
Joined Nov 2011
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Any tips on painting my extra....ie what paint etc etc.
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Old Sep 16, 2012, 10:12 PM
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United States, FL, West Melbourne
Joined May 2011
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I just picked one up from a friend.
I have seen the wing drop and read countless complaints and seen several fixes. I have a few questions that reflect my reading.

Coffee stirrers?

Stiffen the elevator?

How good is a winglet add on?

Better prop with the existing ESC?

Anyone match the orange paint?

Add CF to the wing tip?

DX7 settings?

Can I add some aileron throw with expo for the roll rate (pretty slow at this point.

I plan on a gentle flight in the AM letting it down after some high altitude slow fight. Any advice appreciated.
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Old Sep 17, 2012, 12:15 AM
Flying Full Size & Fun Size :)
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United States, CA, Calabasas
Joined Apr 2010
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I have mine set up with 20% expo on all surfaces. Strengthening the elevator and/or dialing down the throw would help avoid the snap that happens from full application of elevator. 12x6 APC is a good prop if you want more thrust - stocker is great for speed My orange sharpie was a pretty good match for the paint on the 300.
Good luck with your flight!
Oh, and don't forget about CG - further forward is probably best for your first few flights - a tail heavy CG can be a bit squirrelly. Just keep in mind that with a nose heavy CG the nose will drop rapidly in a stall.
Josh
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Old Sep 17, 2012, 12:02 PM
3D? I only got two thumbs!
United States, MA
Joined Jul 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rickflaguy View Post
Can I add some aileron throw with expo for the roll rate (pretty slow at this point.
The manual is on the parkzone site. The recommended throws are good, you'll have a decent roll rate with them. And while you're looking at the manual you might want to use what they recommend for expo too.

And just to echo what Josh said, err on the side of nose heavy for the first flight or two. Otherwise you may get some practice replacing landing gear - it gets real touchy when you slow down a bit with the cg too far back. There is a note on the pz web site about the proper battery location. The cg distance in the manual is correct, but the pictured battery location is way wrong. You want the battery stuffed all the way up forward so the velcro is just barely around the end of it, or even just around the wires.
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Old Sep 17, 2012, 01:16 PM
If it flies.....I can crash it
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United Kingdom, England, Preston on Stour
Joined Nov 2011
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I have always flown mine with the vecro around the wires and find it a dream to fly.
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Old Sep 17, 2012, 04:58 PM
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United States, FL, West Melbourne
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AeroKen View Post
The manual is on the parkzone site. The recommended throws are good, you'll have a decent roll rate with them. And while you're looking at the manual you might want to use what they recommend for expo too.

And just to echo what Josh said, err on the side of nose heavy for the first flight or two. Otherwise you may get some practice replacing landing gear - it gets real touchy when you slow down a bit with the cg too far back. There is a note on the pz web site about the proper battery location. The cg distance in the manual is correct, but the pictured battery location is way wrong. You want the battery stuffed all the way up forward so the velcro is just barely around the end of it, or even just around the wires.
There are two ways of setting up throws in the manual. One is for the dx5 with horns attached in close. The recomended radio settings are for more aggressive throws. The ailerons seem like they could go a little more aggressively to me. I was going to fly this AM and I left my radio at home. (duh). What position on the horns do you use with the expo listed in the manual?
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Old Sep 17, 2012, 05:08 PM
3D? I only got two thumbs!
United States, MA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rickflaguy View Post
There are two ways of setting up throws in the manual. One is for the dx5 with horns attached in close. The recomended radio settings are for more aggressive throws. The ailerons seem like they could go a little more aggressively to me. I was going to fly this AM and I left my radio at home. (duh). What position on the horns do you use with the expo listed in the manual?
I'm at work so I can't check the plane. But the general rule of thumb is you want the pushrod as far out on both arms as you can. Only move it in on the control surface horn if you can't get the throw you need by other means, like adjusting the endpoints in your radio. I think on the DX7 you can crank the endpoints to 150%, so go for at most 140% to leave yourself a little margin for trimming. And you really do want to actually measure the throw - when you do you'll discover things like the rudder moves farther one way than the other, which you can correct by adjusting the endpoints individually. You don't want the plane to knife edge differently depending on which wing is up.
You really do want to be as far out on the horns as you can though - it reduces the effect of play in the linkage, and it makes the servo's job easier.

To measure the throw, you can just use a ruler, but if you want to make it easy get yourself one of these things:
http://www.greatplanes.com/accys/gpmr2405.html

Edit:
Check out this post on setting up a plane. Some good advice in there:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...ostcount=22436
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Last edited by AeroKen; Sep 17, 2012 at 05:11 PM. Reason: Add link to setup post
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Old Sep 17, 2012, 05:24 PM
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United States, FL, West Melbourne
Joined May 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AeroKen View Post
I'm at work so I can't check the plane. But the general rule of thumb is you want the pushrod as far out on both arms as you can. Only move it in on the control surface horn if you can't get the throw you need by other means, like adjusting the endpoints in your radio. I think on the DX7 you can crank the endpoints to 150%, so go for at most 140% to leave yourself a little margin for trimming. And you really do want to actually measure the throw - when you do you'll discover things like the rudder moves farther one way than the other, which you can correct by adjusting the endpoints individually. You don't want the plane to knife edge differently depending on which wing is up.
You really do want to be as far out on the horns as you can though - it reduces the effect of play in the linkage, and it makes the servo's job easier.

To measure the throw, you can just use a ruler, but if you want to make it easy get yourself one of these things:
http://www.greatplanes.com/accys/gpmr2405.html

Edit:
Check out this post on setting up a plane. Some good advice in there:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...ostcount=22436
Not sure what the endpoint is on the dx7 or what it is called. When I get home I will check and measure.
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Old Sep 17, 2012, 05:42 PM
Flying Full Size & Fun Size :)
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United States, CA, Calabasas
Joined Apr 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AeroKen View Post
Check out this post on setting up a plane. Some good advice in there:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...ostcount=22436
That's a great post. Thanks for sharing.
J
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Old Sep 18, 2012, 05:23 PM
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United States, FL, West Melbourne
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Has anyone tried either clipping the ailerons to make a wingtip or exteding the wingtip so there is a fixed tip on the end of the wings? Some claim it works on other A/C.
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Old Sep 18, 2012, 05:31 PM
If it flies.....I can crash it
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United Kingdom, England, Preston on Stour
Joined Nov 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rickflaguy View Post
Has anyone tried either clipping the ailerons to make a wingtip or exteding the wingtip so there is a fixed tip on the end of the wings? Some claim it works on other A/C.
Any images of what your question might ref to??
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Old Sep 18, 2012, 05:53 PM
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United States, FL, West Melbourne
Joined May 2011
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The GWS c47 suffers from tip stall. as well. Her is an example of a mod many have tried successfully to reduce the effect of a full length aileron. This one cut the aileron crating a fixed wing tip. Picture is before link is after

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=343663
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