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Old Sep 16, 2010, 12:40 PM
T-28C, Extra 300, Beast UMX
GimpyPilot's Avatar
United States, CA, San Diego
Joined Jul 2009
529 Posts
Wookster, your wing looks a little better than mine, but I can say I have absolutely zero issues with the flying characteristics of my PZ Extra 300. It flys slow, fast, and everywhere in between. It flies a good knife edge once you figure out if it couples towards the gear or the vertical (based on cg). It rolls nice, loops nice, flies inverted nice - it is a great all around sportplane and with an APC 12x6e prop and a 20C battery it will climb like a homesick angel.

Just fly it and you will be hooked. As with any plane, take it up a ways and slow it down, examine the low speed handling and see if yours has any wing-drop/tipstall tendencies (mine does not or I have not found them) - so you can know what speeds are comfortable for your skill level.

I deadstick mine from pattern altitude (~60 feet) almost every landing in a nice Navy style dogleg landing pattern (constant descending turn from low key). It cuts through headwinds pretty well and can land at a crawl once you are comfortable with it.
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Old Sep 16, 2010, 02:44 PM
Flying Full Size & Fun Size :)
jgalexander's Avatar
United States, CA, Calabasas
Joined Apr 2010
2,030 Posts
I agree with Gimpy on all counts (including batt and prop selection), and strongly second the suggestion to begin a landing pattern with some (~100') altitude. One you practice a bit and find a comfortable glide slope, you can bring the extra in at a gentle pace (probably around 15-20mph) at or near 0% throttle. If you want to check the wing, just take any straight edge and lay it on the top surface of the wind. You'll be able to see tha flat and curved sections. Really though, it doesn't matter. I've had mine low, slow, and behind on the power curve on landing a few times, and all that happened was she got real mushy - a blip of the throttle to 1/3rd gave me enough control to drag her in to the field. Plane is excellent
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Old Sep 16, 2010, 04:25 PM
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United States, PA, State College
Joined Dec 2009
17 Posts
I love my Extra as well. It has well over 100 flights already. It is a good sport/aerobatic airplane. I use a 12x6 prop, as I like the slower speed and increased thrust. You will need larger wheels for the prop, if you fly off grass you need larger wheels without the pants anyway ...

My wings are pretty flat, but I have no issues with tip stalls or low speed handling. It is predictable, you have to respect it just like any other Extra.

It does not hold a line with variable speed as well as other planes that I have, but I find the trade-off is good considering the price and ease of repair ... The other day I knife edged all the way down the field, way too far and too low, lost orientation at the end and put it in. Just chopped the throttle at the end. My other balsa planes (3DHS and a Funtana X100) would have been badly damaged. A few minutes with the glue, and you can hardly tell with this one.

As many have said, just fly it all the way to the ground when landing, and you should not have any issues landing it.

While I fly other planes, this one is high on my enjoyment to investment/maintenance scale ...
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Old Sep 16, 2010, 05:30 PM
Jimmy
Jimmy1159's Avatar
United States, NJ, Highland Lakes
Joined Oct 2008
763 Posts
Pick this plane up today and only had time to run one Batt thur her. Was getting pretty windy. From what I can tell she is a good flying plane. I have all warbirds so this was quit different flying. It will take a little time to get used to.
Did anyone have to hollow out a little foam to get a 2200 to fit? I pulled the wires out tring to pull the Batt out.
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Old Sep 16, 2010, 05:32 PM
WHAT U LOOKIN AT!
jaskel's Avatar
Penrith, NSW, Australia
Joined Dec 2005
2,656 Posts
lol..pulled the wires out?? I see Horizons push the battery forward trick really worked.

Mine fits 2200 in oerfect with minimal effort!, I still run flipped wings with std CG 3" back for best results tho.
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Old Sep 16, 2010, 05:53 PM
T-28C, Extra 300, Beast UMX
GimpyPilot's Avatar
United States, CA, San Diego
Joined Jul 2009
529 Posts
Jimmy, a 2200 mAh battery will fit, you just need to push it forward under the spar, and as jaskel points out, there is a lot of room for cg change based on where the battery ends up. Personally, I fly mine with the battery pushed forward until I have about 1/4" to 3/8" of the batter aft of the velcro strap - this is aft of the factory recommended cg position (personal preference). It is a tight fit laterally (side-to-side) for my 2200's but they do fit.
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Old Sep 16, 2010, 06:00 PM
Jimmy
Jimmy1159's Avatar
United States, NJ, Highland Lakes
Joined Oct 2008
763 Posts
Thanks guys for the heads up, Yes I have the Batt all the way up front. I have some gforce 2200 and I mean they are tight. I think i will just take a little foam out. My 1800mah fit just right but shorter flight time.
I really like the plane so far. I was holding out for a J power P-38 but you can't go parkzone.
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Old Sep 16, 2010, 06:43 PM
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FireyFate's Avatar
USA, AZ, Surprise
Joined Apr 2010
2,659 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimmy1159 View Post
Thanks guys for the heads up, Yes I have the Batt all the way up front. I have some gforce 2200 and I mean they are tight.
My zippy flightmaxs were very tight at first. I made a loop out of packing tape on the end of the batteries so I can pull them out without pulling the wires... and after a while they started going in a bit easier. Now I like the way they fit securely, and I'm glad I didn't cut the foam...
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Old Sep 16, 2010, 07:31 PM
Jimmy
Jimmy1159's Avatar
United States, NJ, Highland Lakes
Joined Oct 2008
763 Posts
Thanks FF Good Idea, I was thinking that the foam would compress some and that would make it easier..
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Old Sep 16, 2010, 10:20 PM
Augernaut
Wookster's Avatar
United States, KS, Overland Park
Joined Jan 2010
1,471 Posts
I am no longer an Extra 300 owner. Took it to the field and during pre flight found a couple problems.

1. one of the servo control arm was cracked and bent down. it wasn't real bad, I cold still fly today.

2. ESC was not flixed in place, the tray for it had glue, but none on the esc to hold it.

3. the screw for the wheels were both loose, I tightened them up.

4. left aileron is about 4mm high, I adjust it to neutral

Nothing too crazy, a little frustrating, but really nothing too uncommoin on a RTF

OK, so preflight is done. I hook up the battery using the suggested CG as per the bulletin. snap the top on and taxi out to the runway. Power up, get my speed up, right before I go to pull up........my landing gear falls off. plane goes bellysliding across the runway, and comes to a stop. The fairing has a very small crack in it, the wheelpants scratched up the left wing and under the body, the runway customeized the paint on the belly. Turns out they only use a drop of adhesive on 8 points under there, the problem being 4 points are painted and the other 4 are the spikes that punch into the plane body. There is no way that thing would ever have stayed on that plane through a landing. 4 people at the field saw it, we used some rubber bands and a piece of tape to hold it together to get it in the air. Thing flies like a dream, but now the fairing is really starting to crack with the vibration. I took it to the LHS and they exchanged it. I bought a wildcat and a sukhoi-26XP UM.


Great plane, would have been a joy, but poor quality control means it isnt going to be part of my fleet.

P.S. I am still a huge fan of horizon hobby and their products. I have a value series super stick I fly the heck out of. a Piper Pawnee, 2 blade micro helos, and an UM P-51. Now I have my wifes UM Cub, my wildcat, and my UM sukhoi. I like their products, but it seems every now and then, you get a stinker. For what we pay for these though you almost have to expect it. Cheap Chinese manufacturing is just that, but if it was made here in the states it would be very much more expensive.
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Last edited by Wookster; Sep 16, 2010 at 10:25 PM.
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Old Sep 20, 2010, 10:02 AM
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alucard0822's Avatar
Pennsylvania
Joined Jun 2010
915 Posts
I was in the market for an intermediate aerobatic plane on a limited budget, I've been flying a PKZ Corsair and F16 EDF mostly and am able to do most of the aerobatics that it is capable of doing, along with a UM SU-26XP that I have learned to hover, harrier, knife edge, precision roll, and KE spin, blender and flat spins, and I am pretty confident with. I was worried about all the "issues" that everyone has with the Extra 300, but decided to give it a try due to the positive posts in this thread, mostly from Gimpypilot. I put it together, with a balanced 12X6 APC electric prop(measured 50oz static thrust vs 40oz with stock prop), 2.25" Hangar 9 main wheels sans pants and 1.45" dubro sport rear(all with collars), being I take off and land in grass. I pried out the landing gear mount, took off the paint under it, scraped off the silicone glue, and epoxied it back in place. I set up the throws between the "factory" and high rates in the book, and adjusted expo from the settings in the book. And pushed the batteries all the way forward in the bay, wrapping the tie around the wires for 2.75" COG from the leading edge.

Aileron High 25mm/50% expo Low 12mm/40% expo
Elevator High 30mm/60% expo Low 10mm/40% expo
Rudder High 50mm/40% expo Low 35mm/40% expo

I was nervous as could be maidening it as some reviews I have read say it is practically unfliable, and will stall if you don't fly flat out all the time. Luckily they didn't hold true for me. Rolling on the throttle slowly, it still takes off in about 50 feet, but with only some gentle rudder correction needed to keep it tracking straight, hammer on the throttle, and it will dart to the left uncontrolably, just like most any other plane I have flown. Pulling back on the stick with 3/4 throttle, it took off , and gained altitude quickly, I trimmed it out, then tried some turns entering at about 1/2 throttle, they were smooth and control was predictable, roll to the side with a little elevator and rudder, and it tracked very nice. I tried a high speed pass into a climb, and HOLY CRAP this thing hauls, it flew straight, accelerated very quickly, and then went straight up and would have kept going until it dissapeared, I looped it back into a dive to bring it down to a manageable altitude, reduced throttle, and then pulled a nice big loop with minimal rudder or aileron correction needed, tried some rolls and they are nice and axial, the plane will nose down as all do without rudder or elevator but it noses down slowly, and you just have to straighten it out after a dozen of so rolls, snap rolls with rudder were fast and precise, my feeble attempt at a slow roll went well, very little elevator needed during the upright and inverted parts, but about 1/2 of the rudder travel was needed to keep them level. Flying inverted is just as stable and easy as upright provided you can keep orientation. The plane has enough rudder to knife edge well, and while coupling is minimal, you do need to make some adjustments with the ailerons and elvator, mine wants to roll on it's back and pull twards the canopy side a little.

High rates were not needed for these simple manuvers at speed above 1/2 throttle, on high rate, it would get twitchy, torque would pull it off line, and you had to keep a lot of trottle to maintain speed. I tried to ease into slow flight with some hammerhead stalls, and it did them just fine needing rudder only as it eased into a slow vertical and then turned into the dive. High rates are needed to hold the sloppy hovers I could manage, but there i plenty of thrust to pull out of a hover into a vertical. Harriers are difficult, but do-able as it stalls somewhat abruptly as you slow down forward speed and you have to be quick on the sticks to keep the wings level and the nose high. I need a lot more practice before I even try one below a couple hundred feet. Spins are decent if entered well, although a bit higher rates would probably help make them cleaner, it also takes about 50' to recover from one, so you need a lot of altitude to safely pull KE, flat and blender spins. At speed the plane cuts the wind well, and in the 10mph wind I started out the day with it would exaggerate elevator control when flying into the wind, and would yaw into the wind quite a bit due to the big rudder. during landing and slow flight it took a lot of rudder to fly cross wind, leave the rudder alone and the plane will weathervane into the wind quickly.

Then came the dreaded landing, on my first flight, I spent some time finding where it stalled and how it stalled at altitude, from a level stall the wings rock very little as speed slows, then the nose drops abruptly, neglecting to add power right before the nose drops would be bad during a landing, the plane glides better than I was expecting due to the negative reviews, but nowhere near as well as my Corsair(Duh). Setting up the landing approach and easing the plane down at 1/4 throttle to about 5 feet, then closing the throttle slowly as I added some elevator slowed it nicely, and it landed softly in the grass, this takes a couple hundred feet of approach, but every time the plane landed gently, and then adding some throttle while holding up elevator made taxing on the grass stable, of course landing on grass with the stock wheels would be difficult, the larger 2.25"/2.5" wheels I fit to most of my PKZ planes help a great deal. If the throttle is closed too quickly, or not enough up elevator is added, it will stall and drop like a rock, however at about 5-10mph and 5' altitude damage should be minimal if it does stall on landing. I flew about 8 or 10 packs through it for it's first time out, and all but one landing was good, I stalled about a foot off the ground and it dropped onto the wheels as I was pulling up elevator, no damage, no noseover, just a hard landing. The first couple takeoffs and landings were into a steady 5-10mph wind, and this did make things easier, however at the end of the day, it was calm, and I did need to keep a little more speed, although it could still be slowed down to a very manageable speed provided a gentle slope and good approach. The bigger 12X6 prop will cut grass, there is about 1.5" of clearance when sitting on the tailwheel, and only about an inch clearance when the tail lifts, no real issue on pavement, but in grass the prop tips end up green pretty quick unless you lift off and land from a 3 wheel stance.

I flew 2 of the factory packs through it, and after the 6 minute timer ran out, I had used 1,500 out of 2,200mAh. I flew 2 1800mAh 30C packs I got for my B400, and they did fine, the same 6 minute timer drained about the same 1,500mAh from them, but their slightly lighter weight moved the CG back closer to 3" when the strap wrapped around the very end of the pack, I used these when trying slow flight hovers and Harriers, and the plane was a bit easier and more predictable in a stall. I also tried 2 of the 1800mAh 20C factory B400 packs, and hit LVC after 5 minutes, although I had only used a hair over 1,200mAh, seems the big motor is just too much for them at full throttle after a couple minutes. The bigger packs didn't get too hot after the flight and only took about 15 minutes to cool, I charged them up after sitting for 30 minutes on the 2 field chargers I brought, and managed to fly the bigger packs twice, but probably won't use the smaller 1800mAh/20C packs in this plane again.

Overall, I am very happy with the plane, no real bad habits to speak of, it's a precicion aerobatic racer, and not a 3D plane, although it will do some 3D it takes fast fingers to keep up with it, and it is more difficult than a plane setup for 3D of course. Landings proved pleasantly uneventful, they are more difficult than with a trainer being this is not a trainer. I did not radar the plane, but even with the 12X6 prop I picked for low end grunt over the factory prop's steep top end pitch it was very fast and easily had unlimited vertical with the nearly 1.5:1 TW "fresh battery" ratio I measured. It was every bit as fast as a buddy's 80MPH striker and my 85MPH EDF. The plane flies fast aerobatics and knife edges very well, and while post stall manuvers are very difficult, and the plane was not designed for them, they can be done so some degree. For the money it is hard to beat the ease of assembly, and great combination of power and precision, as long as everything is checked and re-checked before flying. A bit long winded, but as I alost passed on this plane due to the negative reviews, I am very glad I didn't, hope others like me that were on the fence will give the plane a chance as it is now the prize of my hangar, I really am a happy PKZ Extra 300 owner.
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Old Sep 20, 2010, 12:28 PM
T-28C, Extra 300, Beast UMX
GimpyPilot's Avatar
United States, CA, San Diego
Joined Jul 2009
529 Posts
Great review alucard0822. Be sure and reinforce the landing gear mount as suggested in the original PZ Extra thread - they will eventually work loose and then come out possibly damaging the wing or tail.

It is a great flyer, continue to enjoy it!
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Old Sep 20, 2010, 12:52 PM
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FireyFate's Avatar
USA, AZ, Surprise
Joined Apr 2010
2,659 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by GimpyPilot View Post
Be sure and reinforce the landing gear mount as suggested in the original PZ Extra thread - they will eventually work loose and then come out possibly damaging the wing or tail.
He already did... wrote about it in the above post.
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Old Sep 20, 2010, 01:07 PM
T-28C, Extra 300, Beast UMX
GimpyPilot's Avatar
United States, CA, San Diego
Joined Jul 2009
529 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by FireyFate View Post
He already did... wrote about it in the above post.
I missed that the first time through, thanks FF!
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Old Sep 20, 2010, 01:21 PM
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alucard0822's Avatar
Pennsylvania
Joined Jun 2010
915 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by GimpyPilot View Post
Great review alucard0822. Be sure and reinforce the landing gear mount as suggested in the original PZ Extra thread - they will eventually work loose and then come out possibly damaging the wing or tail.

It is a great flyer, continue to enjoy it!
I pried it out, and it was very tight, I saw the couple spots of white silicone glue, but there was also a clear epoxy or CA type glue in there, might be a change to newer models. I cleaned it up, stripped the paint out of the pocket, and epoxied it back in, so if it comes out, it will probably bring half the fuselage with it. I think gluing over paint is more of an issue than not having enough glue, they should glue to bare foam being the joint is much stronger than simply gluing parts to the paint, although mine was still very tough to pry out, and may have been fine, but it's cheap insurance.


Your posts are a good part of why I decided to try this out, all the bad press had me worried, but it seems from my experience they were exaggerated, it is not a beginner plane, or a purpose built 3D plane, and does not claim to be, although it can do some 3D, and is relatively easy to fly for what it is. It seems as long as you keep it's purpose in mind when flying, it will do what you tell it good or bad. The landing speed and slope are a bit faster than a beginner 4 channel like the Trojan, but nowhere near what an EDF requires, it's an intermediate plane that assumes you can already fly the wings off of a PKZ warbird, and are ready for the next step, it basically picks up where those warbirds leave off both in power and in control. Love it for what it is, don't hate it because of what it isn't. It is easily my favorite PKZ foamie, but due to the slow, gentle charactaristics of the warbirds, especially my beloved Corsair, they still have a relevant place alongside the Extra's greatly improved power and control. Now, I wish Parkzone would make a similar parkflyer a little more geared twards 3D and post-stall aerobatics, if they build a version of Sean Tucker's Challenger III, I would camp out at the hobby shop for one
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