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Old Jul 24, 2010, 06:55 PM
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klique, do I need to? My target weight is 1.9kg, which means I've got 50g margin to play with, and that does not include all the wires, camera, vtx, etc. My weight budget is pretty slim.

If you say she needs the weave I'll add it, but otherwise I'd like to keep it off this time. She's already pretty stiff with just the internal spars and wing spars. If I add the lam foil I'm sure I'll be back to the old strength, which is what I'm after.
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Old Jul 24, 2010, 06:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trappy View Post

from what I see you will be using "riteweave" and some 3M90 for strenght. for a UAV, I suggest to cover the underside completely, but glass only 2 parts of the top of the wing: above the internal spars and along the wing spars. this will keep her light without sacrificing durability.
Yeah, that was the plan. Full strength on the bottom, light on top. Unless something goes terribly wrong, it wont be flying inverted and will need more strength on the bottom than the top.
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Old Jul 24, 2010, 07:01 PM
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Only the very minimal weave if any trappy,not much at all,the lam will add tons of strength.
Do add a good layer of the 90 prior to the lam and let dry for an hr or so.A strip of riteweave over all sparring atleast for torsional and anti flap strength.

The lam will stick to strait epp,but once it disconnects in a crash or bump it wont go back down,the 90' is a very nice renewable medium between the lam and the epp that will add strength and re attachment with an iron with no problems.

Taper the inboard side of the elevons of the zeph in the pick below it flys much better this way.

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Originally Posted by trappy View Post
klique, do I need to? My target weight is 1.9kg, which means I've got 50g margin to play with, and that includes all the wires, camera, vtx, etc. So my weight budget is pretty slim. If you say she needs the weave I'll add it, but otherwise I'd like to keep it off this time.
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Last edited by klique; Jul 24, 2010 at 07:19 PM.
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Old Jul 24, 2010, 07:33 PM
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ok. I will do a minimal weave across the spars at the bottom. this plane won't be getting to feel the "crazy" side of me, this is more for regular speed (max 100mph) long duration flights. the low tree-top or low mountain dashes will be done with the other Zephyr. so no need for much strength.

by the way, I've been meaning to ask ... what was the AUW of that customer zephyr build you showed us the pics of? and is that the hacker A30 I'll be using? did you use the standard motor mount for it?
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Old Jul 24, 2010, 07:44 PM
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Ya thats the same motor, I am looking into a new motor mount that will mount to my plate.
I dont know the AUW ,he still had gear to install in it when it got to him.
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Old Jul 25, 2010, 10:47 AM
3rd crashed thing on the left
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Hi guys, please pick up your tape measure
I'd like to know the average chord length and the wing area of the baby, if possible.
Thank you
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Old Jul 25, 2010, 10:59 AM
3rd crashed thing on the left
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for thoses who wondered how to safely launch their wings, here is the perfect solution
(safe at least for the pilot)

Kick launching a Flying Wing (0 min 41 sec)
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Old Jul 25, 2010, 12:08 PM
When in doubt, throttle out...
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rofl!

I dont know why but i find that video hilarious!

Seems to be effective thou...

:-)
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Old Jul 25, 2010, 05:58 PM
Mums the word.
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Trappy, in your video are you saying to use CA kicker or not. I didn't really understand that part about the CA Kicker.
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Old Jul 25, 2010, 06:08 PM
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man2000me: it's your choice you will need more CA if you don't use the kicker, and you'll need to do some cutting to make the surface smooth again.
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Old Jul 25, 2010, 06:13 PM
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Trappy, in your video are you saying to use CA kicker or not. I didn't really understand that part about the CA Kicker.
I'd do it differently anyway, and I have built a very large amount of (EPP) foamies by now.

- Cut slots using a Stanley knife/blade and a steel/alu ruler
- Roughen up spar with some sandpaper, clean with aceton
- Insert spar into slot, make sure wing is straight and not curved
- ***Leave spar in slot***
- Use thin CA (the runny kind!) to glue the spar into the slot, by dripping CA on top of the spar
- Have the thin CA wick in between the spar and foam
- Rock the wing to spread the thin CA out evenly
- Wipe off excess thin CA with a cloth soaked in acetone
- Use kicker to speed up curing the thin CA (leaves white residu, do no use on colored EPP!!!)

Cheers,

Sander.
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Old Jul 25, 2010, 06:20 PM
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no need to roughen up the spars, they are pre-roughed some other steps in there that I didn't do, though ... but I'm lazy
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Old Jul 25, 2010, 06:23 PM
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no need to roughen up the spars, they are pre-roughed some other steps in there that I didn't do, though ... but I'm lazy
You know me, I never leave anything to chance

Cheers,

Sander.
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Old Jul 25, 2010, 06:25 PM
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One thing that's important in my procedure though is to *NOT* put the CA in first, but leave the spar in the slot and have the CA wick between the spar and the foam. If you do it the other way around and the CA settles too fast you either have a warped/curved wing, or you'll have to cut the spar out and cut a new slot.

Cheers,

Sander.
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Old Jul 25, 2010, 06:26 PM
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I don't use any CA or kicker on the internal spars, I use expanding poly glue like gorilla glue,this will add strength to the foam that surrounds the spar and help the spar be stronger by having a stiffer medium of foam surrounding .As a system of expanded foam around the spar it is super strong.
This is the main reason I drill the spar holes a little oversized, CA will not fill these gaps and the spars will work but will not be as strong with CA alone.

We all have our different methods.
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