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Old Feb 17, 2013, 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Rickflaguy View Post
I bought some tube at the LHS last night. Going th put it back to the cross where I'll Welder them. Strip the CA from the end so the rod can flex and glue the CA in place.
Sounds like a good plan.
I am sure you will have a good out come
Chris
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Wamp View Post
Sounds like a good plan.
I am sure you will have a good out come
Chris
Ended up freeing up the CF. Thougt about it and shortened the CF to the fuse and used welder glue on them. Hope to check it out in the AM. With the CF shortenef a bit I was able to max the throws with no binding.
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 06:40 PM
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Ended up freeing up the CF. Thougt about it and shortened the CF to the fuse and used welder glue on them. Hope to check it out in the AM. With the CF shortenef a bit I was able to max the throws with no binding.
Pretty much what I did.
I have yet to try, or see Weller's glue.
Good luck! Chris
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 06:55 PM
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Pretty much what I did.
I have yet to try, or see Weller's glue.
Good luck! Chris
Welder glue (not Wellers) is sold at Lowes. People make hinges with it and it doesn't hurt most foam. As I said earlier I had a cowl with 4 or 5 fractures where the battery busted through.

Just coated the outside of each crack with a tiny dab. SOLID as new. Fixes shoes too.

I have heard they have it at Walmart too. Not terribly expensive for two tubes.
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Rickflaguy View Post
Ended up freeing up the CF. Thougt about it and shortened the CF to the fuse and used welder glue on them. Hope to check it out in the AM. With the CF shortenef a bit I was able to max the throws with no binding.
One off the reasons I shortened the cf to the fuse was to let the rod flex out there
were the working angles are not ideal.
As the horns move past neutral, the vector from the anchor point to the horn
must change.
Really the same scenario in side too. Chris
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Rickflaguy View Post
Welder glue (not Wellers) is sold at Lowes. People make hinges with it and it doesn't hurt most foam. As I said earlier I had a cowl with 4 or 5 fractures where the battery busted through.

Just coated the outside of each crack with a tiny dab. SOLID as new. Fixes shoes too.

I have heard they have it at Walmart too. Not terribly expensive for two tubes.
Welder's it is! How is the shelf life?
Hey if my boots can be fixed, there will be a better battery budget this spring!
Thanks Chris
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 08:10 AM
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Welder's it is! How is the shelf life?
Hey if my boots can be fixed, there will be a better battery budget this spring!
Thanks Chris
I will admit I haven't used Welder on boots yet but I have used Goop. It is very similar and works well.

Should hold up well if you keep the cap on.
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 08:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rickflaguy View Post
Welder glue (not Wellers) is sold at Lowes. People make hinges with it and it doesn't hurt most foam. As I said earlier I had a cowl with 4 or 5 fractures where the battery busted through.
Just coated the outside of each crack with a tiny dab. SOLID as new. Fixes shoes too.
I have heard they have it at Walmart too. Not terribly expensive for two tubes.
I preach the Welder's gospel big time.......but.......I think it doesn't play well with some foams, including some used for our HH types, so it's important to test first

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Old Feb 18, 2013, 04:13 PM
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I preach the Welder's gospel big time.......but.......I think it doesn't play well with some foams, including some used for our HH types, so it's important to test first

Yikes! I grabbed the wrong bottle and watched a simple crack turn into a caved :n chin on umT-28!
Good advice.
Have only had so so results with Shoe Goo
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Old Feb 22, 2013, 12:37 PM
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Hey just wanted
To let you know im selling a partial parkflyer plastics upgrade kit
(Open canopy, pilot and drop tanks) see thread in electric airplanes classifieds
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Old Feb 22, 2013, 03:22 PM
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Several flights with tubes glued with Welder glue. Still holding

http://orders.homaxproducts.com/Brow...l-2-1-oz-Tubes

How to make a hinge with welder
The Welders Glue Hinge (3 min 0 sec)
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Old Feb 22, 2013, 03:59 PM
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Motor choice... help please!

Hi to you all, as I'm new to this thread.... :-)

I've bought a Wildcat; I am a warbird nut and this one has separate wings - ideal for transportation. My dad has made a wooden box for it so now it can get packed away in the trunk/boot of the car even when going on holiday! I'll post some pics at some point, of it all packed away...

Anyway, I need some advice please! I know you are a kind and generous lot with your time! The motor has got a bent shaft I think - tons of vibration and I can feel it rubbing when I spin it by hand... so it's not flying until I get that fixed. It's not the original one because the guy who had it before before it up from an airframe; this one's got no label or anything but it weighs 160g.

I want to choose a new good value motor from Hobby King and could do with advice. (I've had a search through this forum already) I've got the standard 9x6 prop, a Hobbywing Pentium 30A ESC and Turnigy 2200 3s 25c batteries. Its got the standard motor mount. I was thinking of a Turnigy 3536 but I've read that it is not a straight forward fit; I'm not really into fabricating adaptors or buying expensive custom parts! Could someone recommend a straight forward drop-in motor that doesn't cost the earth and remember to advise me on the kV to choose?

By the way, I fly the Parkzone Spit (stock) and I am looking for the Wildcat to be fairly lively - but I'm not going to try prop-hanging it....

Any help gratefully received. Many thanks.
Mark
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Old Feb 22, 2013, 05:45 PM
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This motor requires very little mods to work well in the Wildcat, just a slit rub with a file to the motor mount...

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/RC-Timer-...item1c0e446310
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Old Feb 23, 2013, 04:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Mark4mosquito View Post
Motor choice... help please!

Hi to you all, as I'm new to this thread.... :-)

I've bought a Wildcat; I am a warbird nut and this one has separate wings - ideal for transportation. My dad has made a wooden box for it so now it can get packed away in the trunk/boot of the car even when going on holiday! I'll post some pics at some point, of it all packed away...

Anyway, I need some advice please! I know you are a kind and generous lot with your time! The motor has got a bent shaft I think - tons of vibration and I can feel it rubbing when I spin it by hand... so it's not flying until I get that fixed. It's not the original one because the guy who had it before before it up from an airframe; this one's got no label or anything but it weighs 160g.

I want to choose a new good value motor from Hobby King and could do with advice. (I've had a search through this forum already) I've got the standard 9x6 prop, a Hobbywing Pentium 30A ESC and Turnigy 2200 3s 25c batteries. Its got the standard motor mount. I was thinking of a Turnigy 3536 but I've read that it is not a straight forward fit; I'm not really into fabricating adaptors or buying expensive custom parts! Could someone recommend a straight forward drop-in motor that doesn't cost the earth and remember to advise me on the kV to choose?

By the way, I fly the Parkzone Spit (stock) and I am looking for the Wildcat to be fairly lively - but I'm not going to try prop-hanging it....



Any help gratefully re
ceived. Many thanks.
Mark
The Turnigy 3536 just took drilling the motor mount
for it's foot print and adding washers behind the mount.
By reversing the shaft for the collet adapter it is a direct fit for the cowl.
It is a lot of motor for Wildcat! (A power 10 is plenty)
The stock prop will work, but not take
advantage of all that potential.
Make sure the elevator horn is glued on.
The press fit is not enough. It may look fine in ground checks,
and fail in the air.
Nice of your dad to make a box.
Good idea there!
Good luck Chris
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Old Feb 23, 2013, 05:31 AM
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Thanks Chris and 'Luna' for the advice. I'll glue that horn! So a 3536 looks like a good choice then. But I still need to pick a kv choice. It looks like the 910kv draws less amps but needs the 9.5x7.5 Spit IX prop whereas the 1250kv could cope with the standard 9x6 prop but draws too many amps? (Hobbyking website says 34amp and I have a 30amp ESC.)

Am I right? Thanks again.
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