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Old Feb 14, 2013, 09:21 AM
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United States, FL, West Melbourne
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Originally Posted by greatlakespilot View Post
Im thinking about trying one of my stock props from my extra300! 10.5x9
Don't do it if you don't have a watt meter. I will check the Extra for you when I can but the Corsair/T28 prop pulls 17 amps. Really a lot for the stock setup. One more amp and you equal the esc. Bad Ju-Ju.

The Corsair prop also provides a bit more thrust as it has more surface area with nice speed. I don't have to hammer it as hard to keep up speed and I get good battery life on a 1300 battery. Cool battery and ESC.

The Exra prop might work as it has less surface area so try it if you can check it.
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Old Feb 14, 2013, 09:24 AM
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United States, FL, West Melbourne
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Originally Posted by Wamp View Post
Use the prop load factor formula.
Dia squared times pitch.
So a 10X5 is 10X10=s 100 that X5 is 500
Another 9X8. 81X8=s 648
11X5.5 = 665.5
I still use PLFs setting up planes even though I now have a watt meter..

Pitch speed is different.
Want speed higher pitch.
Want punch out torque lower pitch.

Numbers are only numbers, just a guide. Chris
Thaks but what does the number represent? Agree that numbers are just that. The efficiency of the airframe can be quite a factor.
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Old Feb 14, 2013, 09:29 AM
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I use the multi color duct tape you can now get at wal mart to re enforce the cowl.Plus you can create your own design.
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Old Feb 14, 2013, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Rickflaguy View Post
Don't do it if you don't have a watt meter. I will check the Extra for you when I can but the Corsair/T28 prop pulls 17 amps. Really a lot for the stock setup. One more amp and you equal the esc. Bad Ju-Ju.

The Corsair prop also provides a bit more thrust as it has more surface area with nice speed. I don't have to hammer it as hard to keep up speed and I get good battery life on a 1300 battery. Cool battery and ESC.

The Exra prop might work as it has less surface area so try it if you can check it.
I havent had time to check it with my watt meter.. this is my setup, e flite power 10 40amp esc extra prop (10.5x9) 2200 mah 35c 3s
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Old Feb 14, 2013, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by greatlakespilot View Post
I havent had time to check it with my watt meter.. this is my setup, e flite power 10 40amp esc extra prop (10.5x9) 2200 mah 35c 3s
In that case I would say go for it. The prop on an eflite Power 15 on my Corsair give VERY good speed. The amp draw with a 960kv motor is still 27 amps! I would say that a bigger prop would give better climb but that isn't a big issue. Go for it but beware. Warp drive can cause sudden invisibility.

Orange is a good color.
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Old Feb 14, 2013, 10:30 AM
FLY THE MITT!
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Originally Posted by Rickflaguy View Post
In that case I would say go for it. The prop on an eflite Power 15 on my Corsair give VERY good speed. I would say that a bigger prop would give better climb but that isn't a big issue. Go for it but beware. Warp drive can cause sudden invisibility.

Orange is a good color.
Thanks for all your advice much apreciated!! Im wondering with this setup if it will be as much fun as my pogo and shoestring!(both 100+ pilon racers..
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Old Feb 14, 2013, 12:46 PM
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How much throttle are you guys using to hand launch this one? Stock set up.
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Old Feb 14, 2013, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Wamp View Post
The four sheaths here now work as nice as any I have tried!
In all cases the factory cuts bound.
If you leave them free, be sure to check them in every preflight.
They have a habit of moving forward and interfering with the servo arm.
The id is fine. Plenty of room for oil.
The bench is one thing.
Once up I'll update.
BTW just saw an old film Wake Island.
Great shots/footage of Wildcats! Chris
The sheath is properly called a pushrod housing (google) and dubro sells them. Mine are so tight I can't get them over the threads. If used as a housing they should be glued to the fuse. If used as reinforcement they should be glued. Sloppy if you ask me. I am going to glue them in place and get a housing at the rear so they slide smoothly. Every time I move the aileron I hear rubbing. Don't like friction.
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Old Feb 14, 2013, 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by dbdukeboy View Post
How much throttle are you guys using to hand launch this one? Stock set up.
3/4 throttle.. into the wind!
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Old Feb 14, 2013, 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Rickflaguy View Post
Thaks but what does the number represent? Agree that numbers are just that. The efficiency of the airframe can be quite a factor.
PLF is a long use factor.
If you want to maintain the same watt reading, but change up in pitch for speed
or down in pitch for torque, you can come pretty close using PLF.

Yes AUW and the air frame are big factors as are kv/rpm
And the prop's design.

The biggest confusion here seems to be pitch and what thrust can do.
I do not know for sure how the pitch number is derived.
It looks like just a matter of degrees from the plain of rotation.
Unlike boats.
Keep in mind Wildcats had variable pitch props, for a lot of reasons.
Just looking,from brand to brand or just the difference between a SF and an E
should show how lacking the simple PLF formula is.
Some even vary pitch over length.
My ubiquitous props here are APC Es.
Some out of the package are balanced close enough to me.
You can see the tip is narrower than the blade at the hub. This is for more than one reason. For practical purposes in this discussion it is because the tip speed is faster than the hub.

Static thrust can not be counted on to tell you how fast a given air frame will go.
Nor can pitch speed from a graph.
Wildcat is neither clean or dirty. It is not clean like a Saber or dirty like a Sopwith Pup.

With Wildcat I am getting (by eye) about 20mph less than the pure pitch speed on my graph. That is at speeds around 45-50mph.
I can get the stock 480 to do this, but the power 10 goes there quicker.
Hope this helps! Chris
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Old Feb 14, 2013, 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Rickflaguy View Post
Comes from another thread but posted here a little while back by pugsam. Thanks Pugsam for that. BTW, for minor cowl damage the wlder glue welds the cowl. Excellent stuff
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=8642
VERY strong and effective method. You can run some packing tape as well. I like the above better.
Thanks, RIck.

Here's the post where I give my riff on the original idea (from Chicken Sashimi):

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=9293


Quote:
Originally Posted by rccsofla View Post
I use the multi color duct tape you can now get at wal mart to re enforce the cowl.Plus you can create your own design.
I luv that stuff, too.

For a max-strength F4F cowl, I do the cowl's inside with the drywall tape and welder glue reinforcement as described above, and on the bottom of the outside I add a piece of duct tape in some high-vis color.

The last thing is, I grease all my landings , so those mods are totally unnecessary.........

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Last edited by pugsam; Feb 19, 2013 at 07:26 AM. Reason: fix broken link to post 9293
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Old Feb 14, 2013, 08:08 PM
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[QUOTE=Wamp;24135097]A




I do not know for sure how the pitch number is derived.
It looks like just a matter of degrees from the plain of rotation.
Unlike boats.


Here you go from an article.

The first number is the prop diameter. The second number is the prop pitch. This is the theoretical distance that the prop would move forward if rotated one revolution. If you were to mount your prop on a shaft and submerse it in jello, you could see this in action... A 10x6 prop is 10" in diameter, and in theory, the prop will move forward 6" in one revolution.
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Old Feb 14, 2013, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by pugsam View Post


The last thing is, I grease all my landings , so those mods are totally unnecessary.........

Of course you do......
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Old Feb 14, 2013, 09:28 PM
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United States, CA, Los Angeles
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Quote:
Originally Posted by srinu View Post
Hey thanks that is encouraging. But how do i reinforce the cowl? I thinking of just taping a lot of clear tape around the cowl. Any more ideas?
+1 what rick posted.

For my cowl...I put epoxy all over on the bottom, I let it pool on the bottom of the cowl. Duct Tape the inside and clear packing tape on the outside.

I also put CA behind the fake engine.

I upgraded the ESC to a 30amp and got the T28 prop. The T28 prop lasts longer than the stock prop in my experience.

I haven't really had the time to retouch the bottom but when Im flying I barely notice the beat up underside.
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Old Feb 15, 2013, 03:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Rickflaguy View Post
The sheath is properly called a pushrod housing (google) and dubro sells them. Mine are so tight I can't get them over the threads. If used as a housing they should be glued to the fuse. If used as reinforcement they should be glued. Sloppy if you ask me. I am going to glue them in place and get a housing at the rear so they slide smoothly. Every time I move the aileron I hear rubbing. Don't like friction.
After one season the exit holes were beat up and the cf had come lose.
It took me time to see.
All that time I kept blaming my flying skill for what was the Wildcat's foible!

That original set up was just to informal for me!
Once the glue was cleaned out and the ends reamed, the thread ran through just fine on both units here.

Heli guys go for really nice (correct) housings to run tail rotors.
Wildcat can get away with a lot less.
Dupro. industry standard stuff is great.

The hot glue took a while to cool locked up in foam.
The tail controls have never felt so positive.
Most of my planes,, if not all , have the housings anchored at both ends..
Thanks Chris
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