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Old Jan 14, 2012, 07:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jAW_flight View Post
Hi all,

I just bought a 5888 heli but it wont connect/bind with the remote, it just stands there blinking it's lights at me. :P

I tried the re-bind by having the heli on and then pressing the right stick on the remote while turning it on. The remote flashes and beeps for a few seconds before showing a steady red light, just as it should. But still no connection with the heli.

Anything else I can try or is is just to consider it broken and return it for a new one?

Thanks
jAW
Check that you have NEW alkalines in the Tx. Make SURE the heli is charged!

If it still doesn't work, return it.

Lee
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Old Jan 14, 2012, 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by caall99 View Post
I have a 5888 and 5889. I am trying to fly both off of my turnigy 9x (flashed with er9x). I have been able to bind them but the 5888 is not very stable, and the 5889 just spins its tail rotor full blast anytime i touch the throttle. any tips?
The 5888 is extremely stable .... if properly set up [tracked & tuned as I've noted throughout this thread!] and when flown with its OWN Tx.

Personally, I greatly suspect your 5888 blades & rotor system are badly out-of-whack. It should be able to immediately go into and maintain hands-off hover & heading after VERY fast flight in any direction. I have set up well more than a dozen of these so far, for me and my friends, so I am really quite sure of what I write and have written about the 5888 ....

"general" note: as the directions state, it is NOT a "general toy"!


Good Luck,
Lee
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Old Jan 14, 2012, 08:59 AM
Power-line attraction pilot
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Joined Jun 2011
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Understood. My 5888 is fine. Perfectly stable on stock transmitter. it is unstable when bound to 9x
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Old Jan 17, 2012, 08:42 AM
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gt 5888 tips on replacing landing skids

Hello,
I have inherited 2 gt 5888's with broken landing skids. I've gotten the new skids. Any tips on the best way to replace these? I've replaced motors, rotor links on other 5888's, so I'm fairly good at taking them apart.

I've made some foam pads for the skids on the other 5888 that I'm flying. Does anyone know where to purchase something more commercial?

Thanks
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Old Jan 17, 2012, 10:46 AM
Sir Crashalot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfranklyn View Post
Hello,
I have inherited 2 gt 5888's with broken landing skids. I've gotten the new skids. Any tips on the best way to replace these? I've replaced motors, rotor links on other 5888's, so I'm fairly good at taking them apart.

I've made some foam pads for the skids on the other 5888 that I'm flying. Does anyone know where to purchase something more commercial?

Thanks
Try ebay. The skid is "part no. 12".

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5888-2-4G-RC...item1c1ff2f07e
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Old Jan 18, 2012, 09:05 AM
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quick & easy replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by jfranklyn View Post
Hello,
I have inherited 2 gt 5888's with broken landing skids. I've gotten the new skids. Any tips on the best way to replace these?
1. Remove alu side body plates.
2. Remove canopy, then slide LIPO vertically up & out.

the rest is obvious/Lee
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Old Jan 18, 2012, 10:41 AM
Sir Crashalot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfranklyn View Post
Hello,
I have inherited 2 gt 5888's with broken landing skids. I've gotten the new skids. Any tips on the best way to replace these? I've replaced motors, rotor links on other 5888's, so I'm fairly good at taking them apart.

I've made some foam pads for the skids on the other 5888 that I'm flying. Does anyone know where to purchase something more commercial?

Thanks
I may have mis-interpreted what you asked, if you're looking for the foam pads, then I don't think they're available as replacement parts specifically for the 5888, I'd suggest two-sided carpet tape or similar if the original is junked.
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Old Jan 18, 2012, 06:58 PM
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much appreciated. thanks
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Old Jan 19, 2012, 07:16 AM
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Zurich
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momentum

Because the 5888 is SO heavy for its size (2x the wt. of many), it can store a lot of momentum. For ex., when making fast horizontal 8's [3 m/sec, 11 KPH; 1.5 m dia. reversing circles], or other similarly abrupt maneuvers, it can behave like a skidding ice/airboat and slide off into walls [I've come close!], still going in its previous direction even if the body & rotor force vector is reversed or shifted [and with "aileron"/roll, etc., at full force]. Like a cat or dog running and trying to turn fast on a slippery smooth floor!

Anyway, I think it's fun and I like it ....!

L
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Old Jan 19, 2012, 07:38 AM
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science [= empiricism!]

The "new" now-refurbished 5888, about which I recently posted, previously had 4 weak motors [flight & servo], so I'd put on especially soft blades and decreased stability/incr. control response by flattening the coning angles, etc.

To handle the new power and HOT servos I changed blades and all their parameters, incl. pitch & coning angles via "tip-play" and other hub settings [the thicker blades had diff tip-play anyway > this is an extremely delicate setting, easily varying with a 1 turn of the outer and 3 - 4 of the inner hub bolt; for macro changes I often add a sanded/filed micro layer of CA gel to the appropriate part of the blade's hub section, removing the bushings till reinstalling the blades].

This "new" heli was almost too hot to handle, liking to accelerate, dive and spin in in way too fast left circles. And at the same time heated the motors too fast! So for DAYS I experimented with all the alu hub settings, and the "funny thing" is, I "discovered" that the optimal setting was ...

4 mm upper
3 mm lower


.... exactly as is "normally" optimum.


Real science involves repeatability!


Lee
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Old Jan 19, 2012, 10:46 AM
Sir Crashalot
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Lee, you may have touch on this in a previous post, but I hope you don't mind repeating. What is your solution to tighten the collar (under the swashplate) that prevents the main shaft from sliding up & down? As you know merely turning the screw does not secure it in place, and every 'hard landing' will tend to jar the collar upward causing too much play in the main shaft.
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Old Jan 21, 2012, 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by stonecutter View Post
Lee, you may have touch on this in a previous post, but I hope you don't mind repeating. What is your solution to tighten the collar (under the swashplate) that prevents the main shaft from sliding up & down? As you know merely turning the screw does not secure it in place, and every 'hard landing' will tend to jar the collar upward causing too much play in the main shaft.
It doesn't make sense to disassemble the rotor system, even if you have another collar, since it's the hole in the outer shaft-tube which is too large.

What works is to loosen the collar bolt, slide the collar up and use the edge of a piece of paper or a sharp toothpick to carefully apply some CA gel [not liquid!] to and around the alu shaft-tube.

Then slide the collar down and align the bolt with the lower-rotor hub bolt above it [the holes in the shaft are vertically in line]. Screw the bolt in a bit, but not tightly at first, just enough to assure you're in the right place. After a minute or so the CA gel that drifted into the shaft hole will be a bit hard, so screw the bolt in tightly.

The combination of the collar now being adhered to the shaft w/CA gel plus the tightened hole usually lasts! But periodically check to see if you have to re-do.

The above has worked consistently for me.


Lee
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Old Jan 26, 2012, 06:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfranklyn View Post
Hello all,
I have a GT 5888 with a broken on/off switch. I've ordered another circuit board. Any tips on replacing the circuit board? I've replaced motors, batteries and skids, so I'm getting pretty good an heli surgery

Thanks
1. photograph where all the wires go on the "fried" PCB and/or make a detailed dwg.; put tags on all the wires, to match.

2. use great care soldering > ANY excessive heat will fry the delicate components!

Lee



note: a wise rule is: when the PCB needs replacement, get a new heli and use the old one for parts, as 2. above requires skill & technique approaching brain-surgery, and is nearly impossible to do outside the factory!
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Old Jan 26, 2012, 06:32 AM
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Originally Posted by jfranklyn View Post
Hello all,
I have a gt5888 that was working, but now it spins like a top when I power it up. the lower rotor spins very little or not at all? I have another working 5888 to use for comparison. I've looked at the rotor, hinges, gears, and all looks good. Do I have a fried motor?

Thanks
You need to go step-by-step. First rotate the rotor by hand [in reverse, heli inverted!] to see if it's almost totally friction-free, with only a micro-touch more resistance than the upper rotor [swashplate]. Next, loosen/turn the 2 retainers and slide the motor up, pushing the motor, NOT the shaft, with a toothpick, disengaging the gear. Turn the rotor by hand, then see if the disengaged motor goes with power.

You'll find that a 5888 that is not perfectly set up will eat motors VERY quickly, especially if you allow the motors to get HOT, indicated by touching the alu cladding around the motors with your lower lip [fingers are not sensitive enough] > WARM alu means VERY hot motor!!!!

I have learned this slowly over the past year or so and have well over 30 "dead" motors from my six 5888s .... which are in GREAT shape and fly wonderfully!

See my many posted tips as to how to adjust gears & the rotor system ....



Lee
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Old Jan 26, 2012, 06:34 AM
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new discovery > tip for "dying" motor

I have now found that if the rotor sytem & gears have no resistance to turning but the heli + motor squeaks & squeals and has poor performance with reduced power, invert the heli in your hand, use GOOD model train lube, such as Roco, on the shaft and run the heli inverted for some seconds. B.t.w., I am not totally convinced that the lube is even needed; try without & with.

Wierd*/works ....!


Lee



*I regularly lube the pinion gears almost every flt. anyway, so there must be lube running down into the motors
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